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About GasMixer44

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  1. It all depends on how much you want to work for it. As stated, the 125 is the least forgiving bike, but is a blast when you get the hang of it. The 250 is more forgiving because there is more power, and it has a broader powerband. I learned more in the year I had my 125 then in the 6 years I've had my 250. I'm 6'2", 200 lbs and a 125 can carry me over all the jumps I would do on a bigger bike.
  2. I followed the break In procedure in the owners manual.
  3. Millennium does good work, just send them the piston with the cylinder
  4. I haven't heard anything bad about the current gen 250f, lots of locals ride one. I have a 16 that just broke 100 hrs, valves haven't moved since initial adjustment after break-in. Good maintenance will help with longevity no matter what color
  5. I don't know how the small bikes are set up, but the big bikes want the radiators removed as well. This helps to get wrenches in there to loosen the brackets to allow the head to be removed. You can usually just disconnect the top hose that connects the 2 radiators. On a side note you might want to make sure the studs are torqued as well, sometimes when you take the nuts off it can loosen the studs a bit and cause an improper seal
  6. You shouldn't have to give it any throttle when starting it, warm or cold. I would check those valve clearances before trying to troubleshoot the fuel system.
  7. If both adjusters are turned all the way in, the next step would be to disassemble to check your work. Since you got the bike in pieces the it wouldn't hurt to look up a diagram or get the service manual if you haven't already. Worn out plates would give you excessive free play at the lever
  8. When you were adjusting the clutch cable, did you start with the adjuster on the cable or at the lever?
  9. Does the bike have a carb? If so did you try to drain the float bowl?
  10. I've got rear sprockets from my 2001 that have the same part number and mounting holes as my '16. Mlatour is 100% correct
  11. If they seized there was probably still some air in the system. Air expands when heated and can push the piston out. Did it go back in once it cooled off?
  12. Take the reservoir cap off and slowly pull and release the lever. You want to do this until there's no more tiny bubbles coming out the master cylinder. If you try that and still no results, try taking a rubber band or zip tie to hold the lever down over night. This can help force any air out
  13. Also if you have the line off the caliper it helps to add some fluid to the caliper before you bolt it up. Helps get pressure started a little quicker
  14. Could be an issue with the master cylinder or the seals inside the caliper. Had a similar issue with a 99 125 i had for a little while. Rebuild both and they worked just fine
  15. Did you confirm that the gasket didn't get pinched during re-installation? I wonder If the cover is warped slightly. If so, might be able to find a "new" one on flea-bay