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Free xl600r

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About Free xl600r

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  1. So my mish mash of good valve train head part in my 83 was running great, but sounded like a can of marbles. Good springs, seats, valve guides, new chain and gears, good cam new rings, and rockers, and rocker axial play was within service limit. Still had a nasty amount of noise up top, but the engine was really strong. I thought worn wave washers not limiting the right and left movement of the rockers, because they had noticeable side to side play when moved by hand threw the inspection caps. So I measured the rockers widths between the two bikes on the bench that I scavenged from and 83 and 86 xl600r. There was .035" difference between either the 83 and the 86, so the wave washers could not take up all the slack and they were clanking back and forth on the pivot rod. I made up copper washers on the lathe at .035" and with a ton of grease so hold them, I fished them into and onto the pivot rode, on the insides of the loose rockers, threw the inspection ports. Bingo, no more noise! Any one one know each years rocker arm spec differences? Any one had this issue? Am I just late to the party?
  2. I like it, the 15/47 that is. It does not trim down the top end that much and actually gets you to speed faster and stays there longer. I ride dirt roads that go up and over small Vermont mountain gaps and I like to get on it in the last 1/4 mile straight shot to the top of this particular one. With the 15/47 I can do 70mph and feel like if I give it more throttle it would pull right up to 80 no problem. With the 15/42 It takes longer to get up to 70 and it is not as eager to move up from there. The change in rpm at 55 mph cruising speed goes from 4300 rpm with the 15/47 to 4100 rpm with the 14/42. So its about 200 rpm difference, which in my book only shows its benefit at 75mph and up. Now mind you I never do that, but I heard of folks who have.
  3. Primary Drive 520 RDO O-Ring Chain is the one that is wearing more Primary Drive 520 ORH X-Ring Chain is the one that is lasting longer Primary drive front and rear sprockets
  4. Hey, I appologize in advance but I did search the make and modle threads for this one. I know you get what you pay for and this may be the answer. My chain and sprocket history on a modded 83xl600r was a (14/42 ) 520 basic non o ring DID chain and jt sprockets, wore out them in a muddy spring in 2 months. I figure conditions and chain type. Mark it down as experience. The second set second set is 15/47 primary drive x-ring brand, still good shape and I ran if for two months to get ready and take my road test. It had a strengh of 8500lbs. Once my skills got better and I passed my skills test I went with a primary drive brand 15/42 with regular 0 ring chain, strengle of 7200/lbs. I have been using dupont chain saver with teflon or Amasoil MP every ride or every two rides. The bike has a guestimated 50hp with 10.5/1 piston, 2mm over, head cleaned with mild porting, wrapped header, 16 disk super trapp. The chain is about 1/2 way threw its life and I have about 1k on it. One of my questions is: is the power of my BRP at the limit of a mid 7000lbs strenght chain so the 8000lbs chain lasts longer. Second question, is the x-ring chain better sealed and better metal and that is why is seams to last longer. Third question, I like the throttle and the bike is supper fun to romp dirt roads on, so am I just beating my chain and sprockets to death. Fourth question, is the brand I am using materials quality just the issue. I thought they were private labled DID chains. Should I just expect to get about 2k out of a set of sprockets and chains, and that is normal. I can spend more it if results in a longer lived drive set. Any one?
  5. Just installed the 12 discs and jetted the first main to 125 from 128. Seat of the pants torque, great sound, not to loud and pretty good top rpm. A nice balance between open and closed. Now I just need to try other bikes to compare. I did try a stock 2006 BMW r650 and it was no contest with acceration, xl600r wins again. The bmw was very nice but was so quiet and smooth is was like and electric car or sewing machine.
  6. This cool that so many folks have filled out the thread with there experience and numbers. Just and update on my xl600r. I got an other vintage Jetson/Supertrapp and these have been my observations. The Jetson came with blown packing and only 3 discs. I ordered a 12 count set of 4" discs from suppertrapp but they are not in yet. In the mean time with tashed packing I spaced only 2 discs out by 3/16 of an inch, with solid end cap and ran it. Louder, more upper rpm power but still good mid to low torque. Again with trashed packing, no discs and no end cap, the rpm range for power was further up and good mid, and losing low torque and louder still. Then I repacked it very tighly, left it wide open, very loud, no torque, wicked mid to high wheel spinning power. I could go full throttle at 3500 and the bike would barely move. at 4500 to 6000 seat of the pants fun. Then I put back on the end cap and space out all 3 of the disks by 3/16" each. Still loud, got 2/3 the torque back, great mid and great top end. It is way to loud to ride without hearing protection. Today I am going to space only two discs at 3/16" until the 12 pack comes in. I will report back on the various configureations.
  7. Makes sense. I am crusing between 50-60mph on secondary roads. The 15-47 sprockets makes this 3800-4800 rpm. I am running Amsoil synthetic 60wt motocycle oil and seams to be good. I change it about every 1k.
  8. I was inccorrect and an was off by 10k in my rpms, 4200 at 55mp and 5000 at 65mph. I spoke to a local mechic the said the 5k range is good for cruising rpm becuase above this the valves need ajusting more. Why I do not know but 65mph at 5k is plenty good for my riding.
  9. I want to hear what others rpms are for a given cruising speed in 5th gear is. I am running a 15/47 on an 83 xl600r at 60mph I am running 4000 rpm and at 75mph I am running 4700-4800 rpm. I has a good and un-stressed buzz at 75 and just want to know what others think about there rpm and crusing speed. What you think the bike motor is best to run with at cruising speed. I know that max torque is at 5k and max hp is 6k in the spec book and this turns out to be true real time. I notice that above 7k the bike does not produce enough worthy power to be in that range. I don't know what the red line is or even over rev is for these bikes. It is most happy between 3500 and 5000. Any one have some thoughts?
  10. Here and update. I just put on a 15/47 with an o-ring and it is the perfect gearing for me on this machine. It will do 65-70 with out buzzing and have more on the pipe. I just don't need or want any more speed on this bike. It is low enough in first to do some single track with and mild woods riding. The best part is now the span between stock gears is perfect with the sprocket combo. There is no over rev and the next gear catches with no delay in power delivery. For me its the perfect combo. Oh, the best part, the acceleration felt in the seat of the pants. The only thing that would be a negative, is that the throttle is a little jumpy, you need to be mindful in town, otherwise I think thats a plus.
  11. Cool, and thanks for the response. I am running a basic 520 DID non o-ring and i get that vibration as well. Maybe the o-rings act to dampen chain vibrations. It makes me wonder why they listed these bikes as 100mph bikes. You are so out in the wind and the front fender is bent down almost into the tire at above 80. I get wobble under hard accelleration with the front wheel un weighted. I was considering a dampener but figured it was better to ride the bike within its limits instead.
  12. I am running 14/43 with a under rated 520 chain and just realized the premature wearing out is due to the wet dirt roads of spring and having low tensile strenght. Since I live in the "land of dirts roads" and only take paved secondary roads, I descided to go 15/47. I went with larger rings for a reduced wear rate but also to get a smidge more low end grunt for some trail. The chain I bumped up to an 0-ring 520 that is rated 8100 lbs. Has any one had chain stretch using an under rated chain? I need to adjust the chain evey couple of rides and its at the end of the slots in the swing arm. I have and do remove the chain to clean it in the parts washer some times, and I lube it every ride. Also, how do you like the 15/47 for trail and paved? 70mph is my max speed but I don't want the bike buzzing. Right now it will do 85mph with alot left on the pipe, I just don't like or trust the bike at or above that speed.
  13. My Big Red Pig parked on Montpelier Vermont this morning. The seat was an ebay score and some one re covered in it in Grey. I am leaving it until is wears out.
  14. I have figured out a way to leave the carbs on to re jet. You may know this but bare with me if you do. Remove the crankcase breather stuff. Slip a small pan I below and drain the floats. Side note: I replaced the bowl screws with torx t27 head with same thread screws, you can use Allen head too. I use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a t27 head and removed the bowl/s. if you convert to allen head you can fit a small allen wrench in the space. Drop off the plastic ring thing /wave/splash guard from the main jet and then take an 8mm small wrench and remove the entire main jet. Install what ever size out side the bike and re instal. Regarding the idle jet I made a very short flat head screwdriver that well fit between the crank case and idle jet. Take an old screwdriver and grind the right length and blade profile on the tip to work for you. Now I can rejet in ten min or fewer.
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