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About dkipz

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  1. dkipz

    Rear Pegs?

    I know I'm dredging up oooooooold stuff but that's exactly what I'm wondering as well. I have a youngster that would like Ike to ride along with dad on some fire roads and would like to have somewhere definite for them to put their feet. Anyone have any insight? I have an 01 YZ426.
  2. dkipz

    06 DRZ110 falls off up top

    Hey all! I've been battling this beast since we purchased it 3 years ago trying things in stages to see if any resuts have been achieved. Here's the trouble - when revving the motor its great to 1/2 throttle, but once I go wide open on the throttle it pops, bogs (I can see little flame puffs from the exhaust when this happens) and almost sounds like a rev limiter - just sounds like incorrect main jet at first listen. I have a LeoVince exhaust on it, same results with the OEM and BBR rev box. I've done main jets from 2 sizes smaller than stock to 7 sizes larger and still have the same main result (aside from worese running conditions at 1/2 throttle with jets that were too small). I even bought a brand new mikuni 24mm carb that I retrofitted and played with to see if maybe there was a passageway in the OEM carb that wasnt getting cleaned from numerous overnight dips in the Berryman bucket. Same results up top. I changed to a new spark plug, pulled the wire end off of the wire that plugs onto spark plug, cut 1/4" off of it and resrewed the end on to it for a fresh connection. Moved all of the grounds for the wire harness to one location on the frame (coil mount bolt) and scraped the frame for bare metal in that location. I pulled the generator cover to inspect and there's no adjustment for the rotor. Everything looks good visually. Bike does have a "bump start" kit on it, and I even tried bypassing that and the kill switch to see if there was something causing trouble there - no change. My last couple of things to try are to do a valve check/adjustment, meter the coil and igniter (they pass fine on a bench test but I haven't metered them while in use and am not sure what readings I should be seeing under load/high RPMs). I've pulled all of the connectors and made sure connections are tight and not corroded. If only I had a "donor" bike to borrow parts from to do a quick comparison test... If anyone has had anything like this go on with their 110 and had a fix I'm all ears! I'm reluctant to buy a coil and/or igniter without knowing it's the culprit since they're the priciest part of the ignition system. Any input appreciated! Thanks in advance
  3. dkipz

    OEM or Tbolt manual clutch setup

    I just installed the retrofit kit. About $180 for the whole kit with instructions ready to go. I think I need to pull the sight glass for the oil level and reinstall with some rtv (the instructions said to insert it with wd40 and it seems to be weeping oil slightly around the seal). Other than that it's been great so far. I didn't do full manual (the kit comes with the bushing to remove the OE centrifugal clutch to go full auto if desired) at this time as I wanted to "ease in" to using the clutch and didn't want it to be a "make or break" for wanting to ride. Simple to install and no complaints.
  4. dkipz

    Longer kickstand for 125?

    Hey all! Anyone find a kickstand that's usable for the TTR125 once you've done the YZ fork conversion? I've heard talk of the 225 or 230 kickstand fitting up, but I don't know of anyone that's done it. It's just not realistic to carry a cinder block around while on the trail so I can use the stock kickstand when there's no tree around Any info appreciated!
  5. Hey all! I'm looking at making a steering dampener my next big purchase for my bike. It looks like there are far less options for the older bikes. I'm running an Applied top triple clamp and 1 1/8" Pro Taper bars, and am looking for something that I can bolt on as opposed to welding. I've only been able to find fitment from Scotts for my year. Any others you can think of? GPR didn't seem to have much available until the aluminum framed years. I did contact the TT store for a quote on the Scotts. Anyone have one gathering dust that they want to part with? I like what I've read of the Scotts, but I always like to do the painstaking task of researching and comparing (even though I'm pretty sold on the Scotts). Any input appreciated! Dan
  6. Hey all - not usually my style to go on a forum rant, but I think the poor product support I encountered warrants this... I bought a bunch of parts from the TT store for my son's "new" 05 DR-Z110 (original owner bought and rode for 6 hours over 2 days - totally showroom stock). He moved up from his CRF50 that had all BBR upgrades on it - no problems whatsoever. He's 9 and rides trails pretty mildly (not a track racer by any means). Wanted to buy things to "beef up" the strength of the bike to keep dumb cheap parts from ending a ride day early. Looked at the 2 main choices for "over the top" style brake levers for the rear brake - BBR @ $160, and TBR at $100. Money for toys is tight, so I figured I'd go for the less expensive part and have some change left over for other parts. Sat down to install the lever and upon slipping it on the bike realized that at rest the top of the arm rests on the nut to the swingarm bolt, and the lever only travels 1/2" before hitting the OEM footpeg bracket. I looked at the pics on the instructions and it looked like the splines to the kick lever lined up with the rear of the footpeg, but on my stocker the footpegs are forward a full 1.5" from the spline. So I call TBR and tell them the situation. He tells me to shoot pics of it so he can give them to his minibike R&D guy to look over. Did that and sent them within 20 minutes of our phone call. 2 days later he sends me an email saying that the brake lever will only work if I buy thier HD footpeg bracket for $150 (!). He said I could buy that or I'd have to make arrangements to return it. I emailed him back and told him that I'd have to return it since my son needs a kickstand to start the bike if he stalls/dies on the trail, so any info he had to facilitate the return of the part would be helpful. No response. I emailed again 2 days later stating that I would like to handle things as quickly as possible and needed to know if there was any info I had to provide TT with to facilitate the return (this thing is satin black, and rested on the nut and tapped the footpeg bracket, so there are 2 spots where a dot of silver can be seen, and I was told to fully mount it up to get pics - the thing was also shrink wrapped to cardboard and that had to be destroyed to remove the part from its package, so there is no packaging to "repackage" it with for the return). The next day I get a short email that says "take it up with them - they have your money." I process the RA return to TT, and the TT store says the distributor won't take it back since it has been installed. I told them who I was dealing with and also kept all of the email correspondence just in case. TT called TBR and asked him about returning the item. He says that I shouldn't have installed it if it wasn't going to fit, and that he would not take the item back. How was I to know that it wasn't going to fit? There was no "must buy our bracket" disclaimer on the instructions, their site or the catalog. I find it really hard to believe that a part they made for bikes that haven't changed since 2002 finally gets a phone call from a guy in 2010 that finally finds out that it doesn't fit a stock bike. So now TT is shipping the part back to me so I can try to sell it on eBay to try and recoup some of the funds from this purchase. In researching the BBR part they mention in their description that their product works with both OEM and aftermarket peg brackets, and the install instructions corroborate that. One of the excuses the TBR guy gave TT was "this was only a problem with the DRZ's - the KLX's are fine." I call BS on that. My service manual that I have for the bike is for a KLX110, and what's in their pictures is exactly what I have. The manufacturing stickers on the bike are Kawi stickers - the bike just has yellow plastics and Suzuki graphics - the only difference between the two... I did email the guy from TBR and express my frustration with the matter, with no response (no surprise really). So in a nutshell, if you're not sure if a part will fit your bike that Two Brothers makes, don't buy it. According to them, I should have bought a KLX and everything would be peachy. I'm sorry that my pool of mint virgin 5 year old bikes for sale isn't overabundant to where I could pick and choose exactly what I wanted - IMO it wouldn't make one bit of difference since there is NO difference in the brackets between the 2 bikes. Blows my mind that a company would squirm and fight over a $100 part when they did not post any limitations to their product in their catalog, website, or install instructions. Hopefully this thread can save someone else the frustration I've experienced, and redirect sales from these guys to someone who will stand up for their products. Stepping off of my soapbox now... Anybody have a 110 with an HD footpeg bracket that needs an over the top brake lever kit? lol
  7. I have 2 5 gallon can mounts mounted back to back on the front of my 5X10 enclosed trailer. It is the second picture down at the top of page 6 of "enclosed trailer setups" thread in this forum. I got the racks (2 kits) complete with rack, can and lock/cable from a company called green touch on ebay.
  8. dkipz


    I have a 5X10 with pics at the top of page 6 of "enclosed trailer setups: in this forum. I need to shoot some new pics as it has been 3 years since those pics have been taken - it's aged well, and I have some upgrades since then. The extra foot you have in the width will give you some extra comfort for sure! I'll try and get some pics shot around the new year and get them posted to that thread. Have fun with the build! Dan
  9. dkipz

    Getting some HID's

    Just my personal experience - I have an 05 suburban - bought xentec HID's for the low beams off eBay (6K), put them in, turned them on, and 90 seconds later my plastic stock headlight housing began to melt a ring into the center of lens. I also bought 4K 880's for the factory fogs - they have a deflector in them so they didn't melt, but 8 months later they're dead. All silverstar ultras for me from here on out...
  10. JL - are you in No. or So. CA? If you're around the SF bay area I may have a source for you... PM me if so! Dan
  11. dkipz

    Clock broken Yukon XL

    The good new is... that's a lot simpler than an 03 or newer. Do you use OnStar? (Or has it even been upgraded from analog to digital? If you don't need/use it that makes things even cheaper yet). Pretty simple swapout. If you've got the slave tape player down below you can pull that out and get a pocket from GM that goes in its place for more storage (or an iPod holder) too. Let me know if you need any more info - I do this stuff all day long... Dan
  12. dkipz


    You'll actually find more of those out at the dealers than you used to. Key is to look for the basic steel wheels when you're walking the huge lots. They still keep the steels on that package (in rare cases they'll be the chrome plated steel), but ever since the economy started taking a dive the "slightly more basic" trucks have been dropping at the dealers that typically only had loaded double cabs this time last year. They're out there, and although they may have been primarily fleet vehicles in the past, declining sales in the fleet businesses have pushed this build of vehicle to the front lines at the dealers... Hope this helps! Dan
  13. The brake switch is an easy one. Look at the pedal and the bracket that comes off of it. You'll see the switch with a white and orange wire coming off of it. Unplug the wires and grab the switch and rotate it 90 degrees counterclockwise and it will pull straight back. Test the bulbs at the taillights for voltage with the brake applied first though. If the 3rd light is working, then I'd suspect the bulbs themselves. The only other thing that could be bad (if the turn signals are not amber in the back) is the multifunction switch that houses the hazard switch. If you don't have amber turn signals and the brake lights are on a shared circuit between the turn signals and the brake lights that can keep the 2 normal brake lights from functinoing. If your hazard switch is separate from the steering column - not an expensive part and not too hard to change. If it's in the steering column - a little more pricey and involved. It is an early 90's chevy - does it have the recessed button hazard on the bottom of the column? Sometimes just pfutzing with that button will make them work again... Hope this helps! Dan
  14. dkipz


    I am a sublet vendor at the car dealers around my area (I add alarms/stereos/navigation/video to them as add ons through finance). I am in new cars all day long (and also see which new cars end up in service frequently for more than just "scheduled maintenance"). Let me know if I can help... Dan
  15. If you look at the thread "enclosed trailer setups" in this forum, at the top of page 6 or so is my 5X10 (non V nose) that has no front door, just the standard (non ramp) rear door. Right now it's in my driveway with my YZ426F, her TTR125LE, and both kids CRF50's (and 1 still has training wheels on it - with all 4 gear bags and small toolbox). If I take out the 2 50's I can slide a rack into my E track after I've backed a 3rd full size bike in to the trailer and can transport 3 full size bikes. I'm 6'4, loading isn't the most comfortable thing in the world, but it's still easy and quick, and being able to tow the trailer without it feeling like a windsock behind me is very much worth the cramped feeling when loading. Hope this helps! Dan