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About iggy320

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  1. You are totally right. I've owned the bike for this long and didn't know.. I'm so embarassed. I reviewed the correct owner's manual procedure. I'll drain all the oil and add in exactly 1700 mls, then check it using the manual procedure. Thanks guys!
  2. I check the oil by using the dipstick on the steering column. How do you fix the scavenging circuit so that it removes oil from the crank?
  3. I have a DRZ 440 with wide ratio gears, fcr 39mx, stage 2 hotcams. Bike starts great. Within about 3 minutes of riding the bike starts sending out plumes of oil smoke clouds out of the exhaust. The airbox becomes full of oil and drips out of the one-way spout at the bottom of the airbox. I pulled off the crank case breather box and cleaned it out extremely well; cleaning it has not solved the issue. All of the hoses connected to the breather box are unobstructed. The bike's oil level does not appear to be overfilled, the dipstick is covered at the appropriate level. How do I solve this issue? The bike runs absolutely great otherwise.
  4. Hi all, Thank you for all the feedback! I really appreciate it. I appreciate the write-up of the fuel injection setup... I wish I could acquire the fuel injection mod for my drz, but who would give up their FI from their z400 quad? The flywheel is the trailtech flywheel, which is apparently 16 oz lighter than stock. It's noticeable as I have to give it more throttle from a standstill, but it seems to start moving quite quick when I do. The cams are indeed quite mismatched. I do own a webcams 540 intake/539 exhaust set, however drzs are hard to start without the auto decomp mechanism. I also figured the hotcams stage 2 would be ok with the webcam 540 intake because the MRD exhaust is so open. The hotcams stage 2 is the best exhaust cam with an auto decomp that I know of. I fear my top end loss is due to the mismatch of the cams. I may have to switch the 540 intake cam over to an old style hotcams (old stage 2) which is .377 and duration 243. (I don't own a hotcams stage 2 intake cam, the oshc could be close enough). I am at about 800ft above sea level.
  5. Ahh I get it now! Sorry, I should have read more carefully and been more explicit myself.
  6. Alright, I shall try to put in a bigger idle jet. I don't have an extended fuel screw so adjusting will be difficult.. It's always the idle! I luckily have several idle jets stowed away.
  7. Finally finished this build! JE 440 kit, fcr39, MRDSSW exhaust, lighter flywheel, ported head, oversize valves, APE springs/retainers, and -- wide ratio gears! -- important to note the mixed cams: ** webcams 540 intake cam, hotcams stage 2 exhaust cam The jets are stock.. 45 pilot, 160 main. The bike idles low when idling, I often have to turn the idle up or else it stalls. It also "signs off" above 5000rpm, it only goes 70mph and won't accelerate any more. Should I go up a size with each jet?
  8. Yep I agree, the drz's power seems to drop off after 9k. To get reasonable power increase past 9k you would probably have to do the following: BBK/stroker, ported head, aggressive top end cams, oversize valves, new valve springs, wide ratio gears, fcr 41, mrd and oversized rads for cooling that monster... but that would cost a fortune and reliability is questionable!!
  9. The cams I own have a lift of 9.58mm (which is .377 inches) and a duration of 243 on both intake and exhaust. It makes them the 2nd one on the chart. Very different from any cams on the rest of the chart. They seem to have quite a high lift but not an extremely long duration. They're actually very close to e-model stock exhaust cams: E model IN .351" lift 227* adv.dur. LCL not known E model EX .366" lift 243* adv.dur. LCL not known So then they are quite safe on stock valve springs? I seem to remember them being relatively sought after. Especially since people love the e-model cams.
  10. Hey all, I've recently purchased a used DRZ with some aftermarket parts already installed. The cams within are apparently stage "zero" cams, which are the old hotcams stage 2. These hotcams stage zero cams are quite a bit more aggressive than current stage 2 and seem similar in specs to rhc 187 cams (with a few slight differences in numbers.) My big question is, should I purchase hotcams stage 2 and take these stage zeros out? The bike has been running reliably so far, and it's crazy powerful. I just don't want to have a piston smack a valve or something, because for all I know this is a stock valve train. Or since it's reliable, keep it running as is? I have run hotcams stage 2 in a different drz and they're almost as fast, and never had reliability issues with those. Thoughts?
  11. Hi all, I have an fcr 41 i purchased for a 470 stroker build that didnt work out. I was going to put the fcr 41 into a stock drz 400 with a yoshimura pipe and 3x3 mod. Can i cover off the throat of the fcr 41 to approx a 39mm diameter? Would it work? I could trim some aluminum and adhere it on with gasket seal. Or should i just put it in as a 41? It will probably work better than the stock mikuni anyways right?
  12. Hi everyone, I have a mostly stock drz with a yoshimura tri oval pipe with the 3x3 mod. My problem begins when I start riding, your typical vacuum air leak idle issue. It idles quite high every time you stop and pull in the clutch. Is there a quick fix for the mikuni carb to fix the air leak? Is there adhesive you can add to the vacuum dome rubber near the top of the carb? I'm going to take this carb out and check the jets and spray carbclean in it anyways, and figured I'd look into this as well. I will check all the boots when I remove it, but just want to know of any tips to fix internal carb vacuum leaks. Again, I am very aware you can spray quick start around the boots to check if that is the leak, just want to know if there are any other mikuni fixes, like there are for the fcr 39.
  13. Found the likely problem. I have the trailtech lighter flywheel. The bolts that hold the flywheel on have sheared and popped out and were stuck to the inside of the magnet. It chewed up the stator too, which would explain why my battery never charges itself. Looks like the stock flywheel is going on. I'll have to get a new stator. DO NOT BUY THE TRAILTECH FLYWHEEL!! I even bought a newer one, which wasn't supposed to have issues. Maybe I didn't torque the bolts on enough but I have a sneaking suspicion it was the flywheel's fault!
  14. Okay, I'll be checking into this tomorrow. Will have to drain the oil. What is the rationale behind this being the problem? The kickstart does seem extra stiff at points.. is that indicative of this being damaged?
  15. I was riding along and all of a sudden the bike stalled on me, and it wouldn't start. It would give huge backfiring noises. I checked the carb, jets all clean. I checked the timing, the timing was OFF and the cam chain must have slipped. So I reinstall the cams, tighten up the chain and checked for any valve noises, which there were none. The valve clearances were good, except both of the intake valves were loosened verrrrry slightly so I installed one step up in valve shim size. I have also gone ahead and ordered a new cam chain as it is 10 years old and the manual tensioner is adjusted in quite far. After reinstalling the cams & fixing timing, the engine is still giving massive backfiring when it's trying to start. I take the head off the bike to check for a bent valve, and there are none. There is slight rubbing on the intake valves from possible piston contact, however it looks extremely minor and the valves are still maintaining a complete seal. I DID however find the head gasket is a bit deteriorated and there is no rubber gasket material from one piston area to one of the water jet areas. Would the small head gasket opening cause the massive backfiring and no starting? Everything else looks wonderful. I've ordered a new head gasket just in case. My mods are: DRZ 425 with stroker crank, fcr mx 41 (brand new), mrd ssw exhaust, webcams 540 (approximately like RHC 187's), +1 oversize ferrea valves with ape springs.
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