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About pmmcmullen94

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  1. pmmcmullen94

    1975 Honda XL250K2 Wiring Harness

    custom wire it if you know how to. I had a 72 xl250 that i just stripped down and parted out after deciding to swap engines. really simple wiring harness on that thing. its a little more work going from 6-12 volt than just swapping the bulbs out. I don't remember the exact wires off the top of my head but you need to splice two wires coming out of your stator to output 12v and then upgrade your rectifier/regulator unit. search oregon motorcycle parts on google and look through his site for the directions to output 12v. also contact me if you need parts I probably have a lot of what you need especially for the electrical.
  2. look into cam timing adjustments but only if you know what you are doing. my buddy messed with his on his yfz and got 4hp increase. did the same on my old engine and got some more power
  3. pmmcmullen94

    Custom Intake Manifold (yfz/yz450)

    The 104 degree that I am looking at right now is probably 2 inch radius so total there is about 5 inches of tube to travel through. What if I used a 45 instead? It would still be relatively straight and would only sit 1.5-2 inches away from the normal mounting surface. Would that work better? If I can somehow use the 90 then that would be preferred, however, I am going to be riding this on street so I want the top end as much as possible.
  4. Will putting a 104 degree bend between my carburetor and intake port be okay as long as it is rounded out and the internal walls aren't smooth? I'm custom building an enduro bobber and my carb doesn't fit in the frame. I want to turn it to have it intake from the right side of my bike. The engine is out of a 2006 yfz450 with stock carburetor. I'm sure I'll have to play with the jetting but will it still be okay to run? I've also heard that this is going to increase my bottom end but limit my top end. Is there anyway to avoid that or lessen it?
  5. pmmcmullen94

    Found a spring laying the engine case, 1985 DR250

    I'll look at a parts diagram tonight if I remember and see how to do it. I'll get back to you on here
  6. pmmcmullen94

    Found a spring laying the engine case, 1985 DR250

    Not sure exactly for your bike as I didn't look at the drawings but you shouldn't have to split the entire case just take off the crank case cover on your shifting side of the bike (should be left) and the shifter mech is right there. You might have to dig through some other parts but not split the case entirely down to crank and all that.
  7. pmmcmullen94

    leaking clutch cover

    Not true. I've used gasket maker on everything in my engine from the crank case halves to the top end gaskets and it works way better than any paper gaskets ive used. Yes regular gaskets can be installed without problems but a LITTLE gasket maker on each side helps as well. Don't need to go crazy on it.
  8. pmmcmullen94

    Sputtering Issue

    Hi All, I'm working on tuning up my 72 Honda XL250 and here's what has been done to it so far: -Cam advanced one tooth (done by dyno tuner to add horsepower/fix problems running) -New Mikuni carburetor -Took apart advance mechanism and put in high temp grease on the posts the weights sit on. (should I have used something else?) -New points gapped to correct The problem that I am facing right now is it will run fine until 4,000 RPM which is when the manual says the advance should be working. It will idle fine and climb throttle until 4,000 RPM where it will start sputtering and bogging out. It's hard to check the timing at that point because I can't keep it at 4,000 without it trying to die. My carburetor is running somewhat rich but the guy that tuned my bike said that isn't the issue. He tuned it before and fixed my timing and it ran great. The only problem was that I didn't have the plates on it yet (enduro) and so all he could do was test it on the dyno. What should i use for lubing up the advance if this is the problem. i doubt it but could the grease be holding it back at all?
  9. pmmcmullen94

    How to use timing light on wet flywheel?

    My bad we got mixed up on the terms. By stator cover I was referring to the 6 inch cover not the crankcase cover. Ok ill try it out and see if it will work. Less oil is better than anything so if I can minimize the splatter that works too. Thank you ill comment back on the results
  10. pmmcmullen94

    How to use timing light on wet flywheel?

    Also leaning the bike won't work as the Petcock for the tank is on the same side as the stator. Would it be that bad if I ran with no oil for like 20 seconds at a time? Only need about 2-3 tries. Just enough to start, adjust, and make sure it stays there after regulating itself
  11. pmmcmullen94

    How to use timing light on wet flywheel?

    My bike doesn't have a plug for timing you have to remove the entire stator cover. I will try the grease option though and see how that works. I have that mocked up plastic cover that I made that I'm hoping will work
  12. pmmcmullen94

    How to use timing light on wet flywheel?

    Yea it comes off the cam and I could go by the cam if worse comes to worse. I just wanted to get as accurate as possible by using the flywheel if I could.
  13. pmmcmullen94

    How to use timing light on wet flywheel?

    It doesn't address it. Its a 1972 Honda XL250. The manual is mostly how to ride the bike/make basic changes. Its only about 20 pages long.
  14. I have a 4 stroke that I'm trying to time with a timing light. The problem is I have to remove the whole stator cover to see the timing marks and its a wet flywheel (sits in a crankcase filled with oil). When the bike is running it is throwing oil everywhere if I were to do so. I tried to make a plastic stator cover but it doesn't seal tight enough to hold in the oil once it thins up after heating. Any ideas? Most people say to drain the oil and run it dry for a little while just get in and get out kind of thing so it isn't running dry long. What are your thoughts? Thanks.
  15. pmmcmullen94

    Bigger or Smaller Main Jet

    1972 Honda XL250 with Mikuni 32mm and Pod Filter I messed with the clip in every position. I noticed that it got better once I went more lean. I originally was running a 200 after the bore and it was way worse. As I dropped closer to 165 (my lowest size I have), the rpm span that it would lurch went down. When i had the 200 in, it would lurch from 4K-5500K, at 170 it was from 4K-5K, and now its around 4500K-5K. I could be wrong though. Just as a note, my ignition is fine, the points, coil, and condenser are all new.