Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About coeshow

  • Rank
    TT Titanium Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
  • Interests
    Dirt bikes, road bikes, muscle cars.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. FYI. The above data from Wiseco product line manager is incorrect. Most every stock 230 I checked had -.030 deck, not .020. Additionally, the OEM head gaskets are .040 thick, not .020. That's why I would always suggest taking the OEM head gasket apart and use one of the .010 segments. This gives a nice .040 stack up clearance with no extra work when installing a Wiseco piston in stock bore. Did Wiseco ever start offering their 230 piston in oversizes? I could look it up I guess. Just wondering.
  2. I always heard Lucas was the "Prince" of darkness... The English learned to drink their beer warm because Lucas made the refrigerator motors... Lucas has come a LONG way since then. I read somewhere that Lucas made most of the electronics for the space shuttle.
  3. coeshow

    Cam modification

    Adnohguy, My project 300 kit was likely to be 74mm bore by 70mm stroke. I do have the items necessary to build a prototype but my interests moved on to other projects. Namely, building the worlds most powerful and fastest KLR650. I have no current desire to move forward with the CRF project.
  4. coeshow

    Cam modification

    With enough effort and dedication, most anything can be accomplished. You clearly took the path less traveled but I admire your effort with the m= achining required and modifications on the cam to use the old 200X ignition along with the newer ball bearing supported components. Well done. I compared every CRF engine component to ATC200X and XR200 back in 2003 to learn of the differences and changes Honda made for the new 150 and 230 bikes. My brother and I have done a lot of off the wall stuff over the years with big bore and stroker combos. Not only with these little Hondas but with numerous other engines. I have learned through experience that the old Japanese sourced center cases are noticeably stronger castings. Using them over the Brazilian ones for a hi output build such as yours will provide a stronger lower end. You should post up some photos of your machine to share. Sounds like an awesome project/ride! Good luck and ride safely.
  5. coeshow

    Cam modification

    Why use old school 200X ignition components? The 30 yr old mechanical advance is not very good compared to the newer electronic ignition and advance used with the 230's. Plus, if memory serves, the 200X crank uses a different flywheel length and taper than the 230 crank you're planning to use. If so, your 200X lower ignition components won't work.
  6. coeshow

    crf150f head onto an xr 200 motor

    Why do you wish to put a 150 head on a 200? it will lose performance if you do. The ports and valves are too big for your 200, but the real killer will be the added volume in the combustion chamber. Your engine will lose quite a bit of compression and power with a 150 head. In fact, a great 150 upgrade is to install a 200 head on it. Even better is to bore the cam bearing location to accept 150/230 style ball bearing cams. This mod is great for a 150, but I understand you wish to do the opposite. I advise you keep the 200 head installed. Good luck and ride safely.
  7. coeshow

    The CoeShow Facts

    Hello Vortec, I’ve been away from this site for some time. I’m pleased by what I’ve come to find posted about me by the GOAT. I read through it and found a few posts you’ve made concerning the pipe testing I did years ago and some comparisons you posted with test results you’ve acquired. I’d like to shed a little light on what I did during my development. I tested items that where available in the 2006 2007 time frame. I used the trusty Dynojet rear wheel dyno fitted with exhaust gas analyzer, my trusty seat of the pants and at times a stop watch for lap testing. Back then the only exhaust systems available were the BBR, Powroll, DrD and I believe Pro Circuit? Anyway, as I posted, all of the systems I tested lost power except at peak RPM where most made a tiny gain (except Powroll head pipe only). All were louder if equipped with aftermarket muffler too. Especially after a short while when the fiberglass packing would start to deteriorate. A year or so later I also tested an E.O. down swept exhaust for one of my customers wishing to use it. While the pipe was nicely built and routed downswept, it too was loud and LOST power. The BBR systems made the best gain for racing applications. ( nearly 10 years ago) This EO pipe I tested was not outfitted with a SuperTrapp type muffler. I have been present when testing Super trapp slip-on type systems on other machines. It has always been clear that these adjustable mufflers can be used to tune. In my limited experience with testing them they become obnoxiously loud when set up with the number of discs needed to make any noticeable gains and they too would lose power at lower RPM’s. Never would they result in power gains across the entire RPM range. I don’t know what methods you’re using to obtain your data, but you’ve posted that you found noticeable gains across the power curve after mounting and running with the new EO Supertrapp. That’s great! We ALWAYS optimized the jetting whenever testing to obtain the best results with any particular set-up. Perhaps you can get your machine on a dyno and do some back to back tests of your own. People love documentation. The picture of the old school ATC with the number 14 is not an ATC200R. In fact, that’s a photo of one of Tracy Dicksons old mounts. It was still a great ride for him but trust me, there was NO WHERE near a $100,000 in that machine. If you’d like, you can find a few actual photos of the 200R’s on some of the 3 wheeler sites and insert it into the place you’ve made. I’m currently only riding on the track these days (Pala) with my trusty 2003 YZ250 2 stroke. I still have my 230’s, but they have been parked for a couple of years. I would never abuse them on an MX track I have them set-up with awesome trail settings. I liked the post teamrude made. He is correct in that the CRF150 and 230F’s are the direct descendants of Honda’s first 100 and 125cc engines. They’ve made some great changes over the years, but it was a killer design to start with!! I’ll be lurking from time to time. Cheers!
  8. Tech25, Woods ryder detailed a way to install the higher primary drive ratio if needed. The 230 PD ratio only speeds up the transmission to crankshaft ratio, or gears up the tranny internally. If you can gear your bike up with sprockets to attain the speeds you need, then theres no need to perform this work. I believe woods ryder also meant that the 230 AND 150 clutch baskets hold an additional clutch plate over the XR200 clutch basket. I performed this for one of my customers years ago that couldn't gear his bike tall enough with final drive sprockets. After all was said and done, he achieved 93 miles per hour with his bike on the race track. This is with a big 200 +lb guy at the helm too. Not some 80 lb kid. Hope this helps
  9. Carralo1, The long allen head bolt that runs down the left side is necessary. The bike will run without it but it will likely leak oil around that area. You should be able to remove the rest of the broken bolt now that the cylinder is off. After reinstalling the top end, stick your finger in the timing chain tensioner hole and press against the timing chain guide to mimic the tensioner in place. This will help you to get the cam timing correct before reinstalling the tensioner. It is common for the chain to come off of the crank gear even though there is a guide there. If you get it back together correctly I think it will run, how well is going to be anyones guess when using old parts. Good luck!
  10. coeshow

    230 to 250 bore?

    To answer your question, none of the CRF250's engine parts will interchange with your CRF230. There are a few suppliers of true 250cc big bore kits available for your machine. If you do a search you'll find them. Be advised that none of them are simple cylinder bore only installations. Your cylinder will need to be sleeved and your cent cases bored a small amount to accept the new larger sleeve. A small investment will be required,and it is labor intensive, but if you desire to keep this bike and want maximum power, this will be worth it.
  11. The answer is no. There are likely 0 interchangeable parts between the R & F models. I suggest you stick with the OEM exhaust. If you have some money to invest in the bike, look at improving the suspension components or other engine performance items. If an aftermarket exhaust system is a must have item for you, other manufacturers make systems designed specifically for your model.
  12. coeshow

    Broke cam sproket bolts

    Definately take the engine out. As Confederate mentioned, you'll be farther ahead and have a much easier time working on the bench than bending down next to the bike. I would be concerned about the root cause of the failure. If the oil level was too low or even if the damage was caused by an oil related problem,(or not) you likely have areas to be concerned about other than just replacing the cam bolts. Something had to lock up VERY tight to shear those bolts!
  13. coeshow

    crf230 clutch basket

    I recommend any first timer or inexperienced mechanics to use torque wrenches during all assemblies. 9ft/lbs is'nt very tight, but it is for the 6mm bolts used for the clutch. Once you get a knack and "feel" for how tight bolts need to be, you'll not need to rely so much on the torque wrenches for the smaller fasteners, especially those outside of the engine on the chassis. Keep up the good work.
  14. When sending in your cam core to Web, Megacycle or to other cam providers, you can send it in with bearings installed. The larger left side bearing can remain on the cam when sent in. The smaller right side bearing is fairly easy to remove if you decide to prior to shipping. What happens sometimes is that if you sent your core in with both bearings, your performance cam may be returned with only the large bearing. This entails calling the cam dealer and requesting the missing bearing, delaying your assembly for a couple days before you can put things back together. I ALWAYS remove the small bearing before sending to Web. Since they remove the flange for modification, they also remove and reinstall the large bearing after their modifications. I recommend you do NOT remove the large bearing and flange. Send it in as removed and allow the cam manufacturer to remove and reinstall the bearings as they have the proper fixtures, presses and tools to do it properly.
  15. Tech25, Stock 150 needle, NOT Power-up needle. The EFI systems I'm currently working with require a 12v power supply and battery. I know the current competition dirt bikes are equipped with the latest systems that have integrated ignition systems and operate without an onboard battery. I'm using readily available components for the systems I'm working with so no, this system wouldn't work on your gen 1 150. There is no added peak HP with an EFI system. Since most are combined with the ignition ssytems, there are a number of semi simple tuning paramaters that can be changed to tune for different tracks, pipe and cam combos and climate conditions, so there are some tuning benefits. Even the current state of the art EFI systems on the 250 and 450 dirt bikes don't make additional peak power, but the systems add some noticeable weight to the bikes.