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About ChrisN572

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  1. ChrisN572

    2002 XR 100 wont start

    Thanks for suggestions. I checked spark again and found there now wasn't any. Where as I had it before. The kill sw was removed, the ignition on. What I found was when I was cleaning the mud from around the flywheel, the sensor had moved a little. From above angle it looked fine. When I got below it I saw the bottom if its mounting plate its on a pin, and the other end is bolted in place. Well, it was able to come off its pin because whatever rocj/derbies punched a hole in the flywheel cover in the first place (allowing all the mud in) must have hit the sensor too. As its mounting plate was bent. So after removing its one bolt, bending flat as u could and reinstalling, the air gap between it and the flywheel looked much better. It fired right up after 2-3 kicks. Thanks again
  2. ChrisN572

    Front sprocket washers keep cracking

    First time it happened was when I removed the OEM and put on a new renthal set (chain and sprockets). I took it off and noticed the renthal had a recess and chalked the failure up to that and put the OEM front sprocket back on. I've gone through 3 sets of new oem washers to hold the OEM front sprocket on since then. Currently I have one big washer (from a lawn mower blade I think) on there. Its a lil softer metal and concave. So once tightened down, it smashed it in a little. The washer is not centered because its I.D. is a lil bigger than the bolts' O.D.
  3. ChrisN572

    Front sprocket washers keep cracking

    Anyone else experiencing this? Found a work around? I've tried putting oil on the bolt thread and torque to spec per the manual. I've also tried a little under spec with loctite (I tried this because I'm assuming its cracking due to it being hard/brittle material and over-tightented). I keep cracking the outer washer. (it doesnt crack on install, but within a ride or two) Its not like I have sent my torque wrench to a lab to get calibrated, but its gatta be close. I've double checked the torque by hand with a t-handle seems about how much I would tighten the bolt by hand. Thx
  4. ChrisN572

    2002 XR 100 wont start

    Yeah, I made sure the sparkplug boot was screwed in tight to the end of the spark plug wire and secured it with a zip tie. It was tight already, I got a turn out of it.
  5. ChrisN572

    Honda XR100R (2002)


    Good kids bike.
  6. ChrisN572

    Honda XR100R 2002

    Good kids bike.
  7. ChrisN572

    Suzuki RMZ250 (2013)


    Love the way the Suzuki's turn.
  8. ChrisN572

    Suzuki RMZ250 2013

    Love the way the Suzuki's turn.
  9. 0 comments

    Nice cruiser for two up.
  10. ChrisN572

    2002 XR 100 wont start

    I bought an XR 100 last weekend. It ran when I looked at it. The guy said it was cold blooded and took a bit to warm up. I noticed he choked it and gave it gas when starting. Most of my experience is with full size 2t/4t bikes and I've always started them cold with choke on and zero throttle. (cracking the throttle defeats the choke from what i understand) So I figured it needed some maintenance, but no biggie since I saw it start cold and run. I get it home and could not get it started via the kickstarter (didnt try push starting). I saw it running an hour earlier, so I wasnt sure why I couldnt get it started. So far, here is what I've done maint wise to try to get this thing starting normally. Changed the motor oil. Cleaned/oiled the air filter Put a new OEM/NGK spark plug in. (checked spark, it has good looking blue spark) Checked compression. 145 in 3 kicks Rebuilt the carb with a moose kit. Though I put in a new OEM (Keihin) pilot and main. The needle, needle jet, float valve, fuel screw, o-rings and gaskets all used from the moose kit. (cleaned with carb cleaner and blew all the passageways out w\air) Float height set to 12.5mm (it was off slightly) New needle on 3rd (middle) position Fuel screw 1 3/4 turn out Checked base timing. Flywheels' T at the pointer, the 'circle' on the cam gear is at 12 o'clock. (cam bolts are level, so I dont think its skipped a tooth?) Clearance on the valves is .002"/.003" The kill switch was missing the mounting brackets (it was zip tied on), so I removed the switch for now. Just the two wires are there not in contact with anything. (not each other, not the bars, etc) The spark looks good, so I don't think this is an issue for now? The ignition key is on Drained old gas out of tank. Replaced with fresh premium 91/92 octane pump gas. Verified fuel flows freely out of gas tank petcock Verified the empty carb bowl got the fresh gas (cracked drain screw at bottom of bowl and fuel comes out overflow tube) I cant check ignition timing as I cant get it running. When I removed the flywheel cover to check the valve timing, I noticed there was a lot of caked on dirt (was mud) in there. I cleaned it out as good as possible without pulling the flywheel. If there is mud inside the flywheel, could that cause timing issues? The pickup/sensor is outside the flywheel though? And I saw it run in this condition before I bought it. I have not tried starter fluid (properly running bike shouldnt need?) I have not tried push starting. (properly running bike shouldnt need?) From what I can tell I have the trinity: spark, air/fuel mixture and compression. It should at least run I would think, even if poorly. I wholy thought it would start on 2-3rd kick though after going through the carb. I'm not sure what I'm missing? Any other suggestions as I'm new to these lil 4t's. Thanks
  11. Anyone know where the two front sprocket washers are avail online? I've checked a couple places online, the diagrams I've seen so far show a circlip. Mine has two washers. The inboard one is concave, the outboard one has a shoulder that centers them together. I over-tightened the bolt when putting on a new sprocket and cracked the outer washer. Looking to get one coming today from an online shop. thx