mickeydee

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About mickeydee

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    Male
  • Location
    British Columbia
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    wrenching on bikes,playing halo,dirtbiking,streetriding,being a hoolagan
  1. Got a pic of the leakdown tester? To confirm your at tdc and not on overlap I would turn the motor one more full revolution and if you were on tdc the first time you will detect leakage on overlap
  2. Either I tie the breaker bar to the foot peg or have someone hold the breaker bar
  3. Using a flywheel tool you have to remove the flywheel cover.using a breaker bar and 17mm deep socket, all you have to do is remove the generator plug.
  4. You need to hold the flywheel so the crank doesn’t move when you pressurize the top end.putting in 5th wont work.i use a breaker bar on the crank nut.
  5. If you have 99999+ Kms on your motor then you need to do a rebuild top and bottom.ive only seen 2 Drz’s with over 99999 kms on them and both got fresh engines.never replace parts with cheap Chinese stuff.its never as good as oem
  6. Too bad the engineer that designed it didn’t put hi and low marks on it and a top up cap on it.
  7. Too bad the engineer that designed it didn’t put hi and low marks on it and a top up cap on it.
  8. The overflow should be dry and as for the blue coolant it could be Suzuki’s long life coolant which is blue but who knows it’s a 2001.maybe contact the seller and ask him
  9. I found that with a lightened flywheel my 470 would sometimes stall if I got it a little wrong when leaving the lights.then I would have to wait a few min to let the fuel mixture to lean out a bit in the intake to restart.with the stock flywheel that never happened.another way to loose some centrifugal weight is to remove the balancer and the bearings
  10. It’s not always outdated.depends on the batch of carbs that kehin made that day.ive done lots of these swaps and most need the pilot air removed.you can also just lean out the pilot jet as well but after he removed the pilot air he got a response from the fuel screw so I would just leave it out
  11. Remove the pilot air jet.install a 150 main jet.the 160 main is for sea level.comfirm your pilot circuit.i believe there are instructions in the FAQ’s.basically you turn your fuel screw in till the motor dies.if it doesn’t die then your pilot jet is too rich.your idle should start to stumble at around 1 turn out.if it dies at around 1 turn out then go to 1 and 1/4 turns out and start your bike keep turning it out till your idle peaks.that should be around 2 to 2.5 turns out.once the idle peaks leave it there and adjust your idle to 1700 rpm.( the Drz idles at 1700 rpm normally) deceleration pop is when you let off the throttle at speed and you hear a little bit of popping out of the exhaust.more prevalent with a pipe installed.
  12. Turn the idle adjust knob( white knob) counter clockwise.when performing the 3x3 mod you should install a jet kit.also make sure your throttle cables aren’t caught up on something
  13. Yep,sounds like you have switched the starter and main jet This is only if you have the bsr36 carb(stock for a/sm models)
  14. As long as you change oil often and check your oil level often the Drz that has 50hp will go 35,000 kms before you might have to rebuild the motor.
  15. Sounds like it sat in the showroom for a while after they ran it.the pilot circuit is parcially clogged