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About mrdsee

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  1. Smaller higher revving engines need more oil than larger displacement bikes. I think CR80's call for 32-1 and I would stick to Honda's recommended ratio. In my race YZ125/144 I run 28-1 Yamalube 2R due to extreme conditions. You'll need to determine main, pilot, and needle sizes and clip position to have a baseline. Also, is it a stock pipe/silencer etc?
  2. If your running a YZ125 I prefer Yamalube 2R at 30-1 in a stock motor. Oil is your friend, and yamalube 2R is so good that I've heard stories of team Honda filling Honda bottles with the stuff for use at the track.
  3. I prefer running ATF Type F fluid in my race YZ125/144 transmission. Shifts better, and clutch is less grabby. I also run aluminum plates for faster spin up. Going to aluminum plates was a very noticeable increase.
  4. I have a '05 YZ125 with the EG YZ144 kit. Mid-top porting and 2 heads(Pump/High Compression Race gas-Straight VP110) I run the Race head with V-Force reeds and the RB Carb mod(Overbore/Machined in divider wing). FMF factory fatty pipe and a Titanium 2 shorty silencer. 28-1 Yamalube 2R and run a iridium plug with a slight timing advance. I also did the power valve governor spring/and shift stopper updates. Along with running aluminum clutch plates. The bike absolutely rips, xlnt bottom end, fairly flat mid range, very wide and potent upper band and over rev to the moon. Could not be happier with this set up. Eric's work has been xlnt! Also had a EG YZ295 kit. Highly recommended motor guru.
  5. Been using Yamalube 2R for years. It's good enough for factory Yamaha, and me as well. Castor oil can yield a slight bit more power, but it's a mess and needs more power valve/ piston-ring/ head cleaning. Yamalube keeps these parts cleaner. For my full race YZ125/144 I run 28-1 in wide open extreme desert conditions. Run plenty of oil, jet properly, and there will be no issues with spooge or lack of lubrication with xlnt power at the extreme RPM's of 125's.
  6. This is why I put grease on axles.
  7. Also if that's a '07 YZ250 you should check the timing as some(my '06) had timing off from the factory. Plus if the fuel is not high enough octane wise these will detonate, which is the knock of death.
  8. What type of oil and mix ratio were you running?
  9. I always run ATF "Type F" in my 2s gearbox's. Shifts better, and clutch is less sticky/grabby. It's also a good idea to soak new friction plates in the fluid overnight prior to installation.
  10. I've had good luck with my Goldwing GL1500 that had a low speed stumble off idle by first using Seafoam which helped and then using Techron concentrate (available at Walmart) which got rid of the stumble. I now use half a bottle of Techron every 5 or 6 tank fulls since the bike sits around a lot and are prone to older gas gumming up pilot jets. In my Tacoma I use Techron and Lucas injector cleaner/fuel pump/upper cylinder lube. Alternating between the two every 6 tanks or so. I've got 28mpg with the 2005 V6 Tacoma using the Lucas and Non-Ethanol gas which is way over the 21mpg the sticker estimated.
  11. Going to be interesting who comes up with a bigger tank for this.
  12. Good chance that oil has built up from a combination of assemble oil and excessive idling.
  13. I've always run Yamalube 2R in my YZ's. It's what the factory recommends and races with and has served me well. In a stock YZ125 I run the recommended 30-1, and in my full race YZ144 with VP110 I run 28-1 and 1 size richer main jet when riding in the open desert.
  14. How about a DRZ400SM
  15. Been running Automatic transmission fluid Type F for decades in my 2S. Works great, shifts better, clutch less grabby.