Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About callen8365

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

224 profile views
  1. callen8365

    Tubliss Tire System

    Perfect thanks guys! And yeah spud I had no idea of what to do, maybe a small idea but still unsure. That’s why I reached out to you guys and will take your advise and roll with it! Although my outer rim has a nic or two and some black spokes would be nice... only if they weren’t so expensive!
  2. callen8365

    Tubliss Tire System

    Also spud thank you for all your help. If you’re thinking I’m good by just leaving the larger hole the way it is and put the valve stem through, I’ll just do that. I’m not trying to second guess your judgement. Chris
  3. callen8365

    Tubliss Tire System

    That’s correct I have two holes both I believe to be the same size. I was thinking I would plug one of the larger holes and drill a smaller hole for my valve stem? I’m just worried about having a larger hole than designed for my valve stem and damaging it. I wish they made some kind of bushing to reduce the larger size hole. Thanks, Chris
  4. callen8365

    Tubliss Tire System

    So I would install those and drill a new hole for the tube? And thank you for the fast reply. Chris
  5. callen8365

    Tubliss Tire System

    Has anyone gone from tubliss back to tubes? If so what did you do about the larger hole that you drilled out? How did you repair that? I’m having an issue with my front tire not holding air anymore and I’m done trying to figure it out. I would rather just change a tube. Thanks, Chris
  6. This is my exact argument to my friends that are buying this fuel rail. The fact that the fuel pump pushes 40psi (or whatever it is) and that is sufficient. But yesterday (not under the influence of my friends) I started thinking there is no return line back to the fuel tank. And I don't think there is a pressure regulator to drop the psi I down is there? I know on direct injection cars it needs all the psi it can get to form a mist in the combustion chamber, and I figured these bike need that same mist. I personally won't be buying this rail kit because I don't have any of the issues stated. But my buddy with an exc350 bought the kit and his bike starts a it easier when cold. Even brand new his bike was hard to start, and the very second he installed it, it starts first button press super easily.
  7. I was wondering if there is anyway to download ohv maps to my garmin gps. I'm currently looking for trail maps of Stonyford, middlecreek and cow mountain. I have googled searched but I couldn't really find anytime. My gps shows a couple of trails here and there but not them all. Thanks, Chris
  8. callen8365

    Fe501s with graphic kit

    Does anyone have a picture of their bike with a graphics kit on it? If so what brand did you use, and where did you get it from? I can't seem to find fe501 with the graphic kit, just off road ones. I want to see how these look with a headlight and taillight. Thanks, Chris
  9. callen8365

    Fe501s forks no pressure

    So than something is wrong with my forks. After a day of riding, I pushed the bleeders and nothing happened on either side. And to top it off I did notice a very faint ring around both forks.
  10. callen8365

    Fe501s forks no pressure

    No pressure after a day of riding is normal? Well if that is the case than I'm good to go because there was no pressure at all! Why would there be no pressure? And since there is no pressure why have these bleeders? I should put the factory screws back in. Thanks, Chris
  11. Hey all sorry to post here but someone here always has the correct answer. I changed the fork oil on my forks and now my quick bleeders won't release air, mostly because I don't think it's holding pressure. I didn't change my fork seals nor did I take the inner and outer tube apart. I did remove the cartridge. My forks aren't leaking either? I did pump the cartridge rod to bleed the air out and it was lifting up on its own. I haven't ridden it yet so I'm hoping maybe I didn't pump the rod enough or??? Anyways some insight on what's going on would be great! It doing it on both sides. The bike is a 2016 FE501S with 17 hours and has closed chamber forks. Thanks, Chris
  12. callen8365

    Carb jetting

    No two engines are ever the same. Before my engine rebuild on my 2000 cr250, my bike liked 45 pilot jet and a 172 main jet. After it liked a 45-48 pilot depending on weather conditions (I leave the 48 in all the time, would rather have it richer than leaner and a 175 main jet. I too have boyesen reeds. But many things affect your bike. I have always used this method below and been fine. I did throttle chops for the main jet. Go through all five gears with it pinned and pull the clutch in and hit the kill switch then pull the plug to look at it. For the needle the third position has always worked great for me. But 45-48 main and 172-180 should get you close. Stock I believe these bikes came with 48 pilot and 180 main. how to confirm your pilot circuit setting https://www.thumpertalk.com/index.php?/topic/271735-how-to-confirm-your-pilot-circuit-setting
  13. callen8365

    2002 CR250R fouling...electrical? Stator??

    I just got done with something similar on my cr250. It would ride great with great power until half way through the rpms then bogg and have no power black smoke and so on. My coil ended up being the problem and it was so simple to test. You might want to look there first since it's easy. When you look at the coil, there is a green ground wire and I had a power wire to it of black with a yellow strip (I think.) Pull off the black wire with the stripe. Set your multimeter to ohms setting and put the red lead from the multimeter to the terminal of on the coil to where that wire plugs in. Put the black lead on the multimeter to the ground. My 2000 cr250 had a range of 0.1-0.3ohms for good. I was at 0.9ohms. Next unplug the cap from the spark plug. Red lead wire on the power terminal of the coil, black lead to the metal ring in the spark plug cap. I think it was 9-13ohms (yes 9-13 not .9-.13.) double check what your bike readings should be but that is how you test your coil. It could give you good reads and if it does maybe try heating it up with a blow dryer or something to warm it up and see if it gives you bad reads then. My multimeter confirmed it was bad put a new one in and my bike has never ran so good ever! Hope that helps, Chris
  14. callen8365

    2017 KTM 500 EXC

    I have a 16 fe501s same bike for the most part with 14/50 and on a dual sport ride I got about 80 miles before running out of gas. When I ran out I was able to flip bike on it's side and transfer a little from the right to left and that got me to the gas station about a mile away.
  15. callen8365

    Turning a brake rotor

    You must have watched this YouTube video too... Yeah I'll just buy new ones. I guess I was just hoping these could be saved!