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About callen8365

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  1. callen8365


    Thanks for all the replies. For 200 bucks I think I’m just going to buy a new carburetor, and spend an extra few bucks on new reeds. Keep my fingers crossed it runs well and sell it. I have a husky 501 and that’s my go to riding bike. I just want to make sure this bike runs solid for the next owner. Other then this hesitation or bogging in higher rpms the bike is in good condition. I’m hoping to sell the bike off to a broke teen looking to get his first bike. I was that guy and wanted in the sport so bad I bought the biggest pos bike ever. But I rode the hell out of it for a few years before the engine seized! Thanks, Chris
  2. callen8365


    I’m not sure how old they are. I bought the bike used in 2009 or 2010, and I haven’t replaced them since then. I don’t know how old they were before that. They aren’t chipped and they seal up nicely (this bike is the buddy bike so it gets maybe 2 or 3 hours a year.) but I have zero issues with replacing them, and I’m game to give that a try. Thanks for the recommendation, I’m trying not to throw parts at the bike that aren’t needed and test okay. But they are old. Chris
  3. callen8365


    Hello All, I was wondering if carburetors ever just plain and simply wear out? I have a 2000 cr250, and I keep fighting with it to run right. Currently going down hills it will stall out. It wants to bog at higher rpms when giving full throttle, but only sometimes, going up hills, down hills or flat land does not make a single bit of difference. It starts up easy cold or hot no throttle and runs great at 1/2 throttle low rpms. I have 25 hours on a complete oem bottom end every bearing, the crank, seals and so on. About 5 hours on the piston. My psi is about 200. And it passes a leak down test. My reeds are good. My power valve is working correctly. I have tried every combination of jetting, raising and lowering the needle and so on. New rebuild kit. I did notice the pin that holds the floats in, is not tight in the holes of the carburetor body. And it is allowing the float to move around. I ordered a new pin and that did not work. I have adjusted the float to a little lower trying to compensate for the play. All I can think of is the holes for the pin being to big is the issue, but I don’t know. I tried letting it idle and spraying brake fluid around the carb to see if it will speed up and it won’t. I’m not sure what size jets are in there currently but I have tried everything from 40-56 pilot and 165 or so to 190 main jet. I also have tried different fuel ratios 1:32 like the book to 1:50. Nothing is correctly this problem. I live in the Bay Area and ride all different altitude. But just my local park is about 1000 over sea level I think. Thanks, Chris
  4. callen8365

    Tubliss Tire System

    Perfect thanks guys! And yeah spud I had no idea of what to do, maybe a small idea but still unsure. That’s why I reached out to you guys and will take your advise and roll with it! Although my outer rim has a nic or two and some black spokes would be nice... only if they weren’t so expensive!
  5. callen8365

    Tubliss Tire System

    Also spud thank you for all your help. If you’re thinking I’m good by just leaving the larger hole the way it is and put the valve stem through, I’ll just do that. I’m not trying to second guess your judgement. Chris
  6. callen8365

    Tubliss Tire System

    That’s correct I have two holes both I believe to be the same size. I was thinking I would plug one of the larger holes and drill a smaller hole for my valve stem? I’m just worried about having a larger hole than designed for my valve stem and damaging it. I wish they made some kind of bushing to reduce the larger size hole. Thanks, Chris
  7. callen8365

    Tubliss Tire System

    So I would install those and drill a new hole for the tube? And thank you for the fast reply. Chris
  8. callen8365

    Tubliss Tire System

    Has anyone gone from tubliss back to tubes? If so what did you do about the larger hole that you drilled out? How did you repair that? I’m having an issue with my front tire not holding air anymore and I’m done trying to figure it out. I would rather just change a tube. Thanks, Chris
  9. This is my exact argument to my friends that are buying this fuel rail. The fact that the fuel pump pushes 40psi (or whatever it is) and that is sufficient. But yesterday (not under the influence of my friends) I started thinking there is no return line back to the fuel tank. And I don't think there is a pressure regulator to drop the psi I down is there? I know on direct injection cars it needs all the psi it can get to form a mist in the combustion chamber, and I figured these bike need that same mist. I personally won't be buying this rail kit because I don't have any of the issues stated. But my buddy with an exc350 bought the kit and his bike starts a it easier when cold. Even brand new his bike was hard to start, and the very second he installed it, it starts first button press super easily.
  10. I was wondering if there is anyway to download ohv maps to my garmin gps. I'm currently looking for trail maps of Stonyford, middlecreek and cow mountain. I have googled searched but I couldn't really find anytime. My gps shows a couple of trails here and there but not them all. Thanks, Chris
  11. callen8365

    Fe501s with graphic kit

    Does anyone have a picture of their bike with a graphics kit on it? If so what brand did you use, and where did you get it from? I can't seem to find fe501 with the graphic kit, just off road ones. I want to see how these look with a headlight and taillight. Thanks, Chris
  12. callen8365

    Fe501s forks no pressure

    So than something is wrong with my forks. After a day of riding, I pushed the bleeders and nothing happened on either side. And to top it off I did notice a very faint ring around both forks.
  13. callen8365

    Fe501s forks no pressure

    No pressure after a day of riding is normal? Well if that is the case than I'm good to go because there was no pressure at all! Why would there be no pressure? And since there is no pressure why have these bleeders? I should put the factory screws back in. Thanks, Chris
  14. Hey all sorry to post here but someone here always has the correct answer. I changed the fork oil on my forks and now my quick bleeders won't release air, mostly because I don't think it's holding pressure. I didn't change my fork seals nor did I take the inner and outer tube apart. I did remove the cartridge. My forks aren't leaking either? I did pump the cartridge rod to bleed the air out and it was lifting up on its own. I haven't ridden it yet so I'm hoping maybe I didn't pump the rod enough or??? Anyways some insight on what's going on would be great! It doing it on both sides. The bike is a 2016 FE501S with 17 hours and has closed chamber forks. Thanks, Chris
  15. callen8365

    Carb jetting

    No two engines are ever the same. Before my engine rebuild on my 2000 cr250, my bike liked 45 pilot jet and a 172 main jet. After it liked a 45-48 pilot depending on weather conditions (I leave the 48 in all the time, would rather have it richer than leaner and a 175 main jet. I too have boyesen reeds. But many things affect your bike. I have always used this method below and been fine. I did throttle chops for the main jet. Go through all five gears with it pinned and pull the clutch in and hit the kill switch then pull the plug to look at it. For the needle the third position has always worked great for me. But 45-48 main and 172-180 should get you close. Stock I believe these bikes came with 48 pilot and 180 main. how to confirm your pilot circuit setting https://www.thumpertalk.com/index.php?/topic/271735-how-to-confirm-your-pilot-circuit-setting