JCskylight

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About JCskylight

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  1. At his point, I'm sure I'll go ahead and buy from RK-Tek. I emailed Slavens last week asking about the S-3 head and never got a response. If I can't get help about a product in order to make a purchase, getting help "after" a purchase seems doubtful. I'm a little disappointed with Slavens, esp, after hearing guys on thumper raving about how much help they got from Jeff. Oh well. Appears the RK-Tek head is a more advanced head anyway. JC
  2. Hey "Force". here's the deal. Been there , done that. Had it happen to me running 4th gear, cooking through the woods and the front brake locked smooth up, threw me about 30 feet. Fortunately, I rolled and hit nothing. There's enough "slack" inside the caliper for you to be able to use a screw driver and spread the pads, what is commonly referred to as reverse bleeding, a quick way to push the air out of the caliper upstream in order to get a firmer feel on the lever. There can still be a problem even though this procedure still works. Sound like what you have is a blockage in the return port at the M/C, which will cause the caliper to build pressure as the caliper heats up. It will work fine sitting in the garage, but as soon as the system heats up, usually within about 5-10 minutes of use, the caliper will begin to squeeze the pads as if you are pulling the brake lever. This happens because the brake fluid can't return backwards into the M/C due to a blockage in the return port. The hotter the fluid gets, the more the caliper will squeeze the pads and very quickly it will lock up, Crack the bleed port on the caliper and it will release immediately. Here's how to fix it : Pull the M/C off the bike. There will be a circlip holding the piston in the M/C, remove it and slide out the piston. If you'll look inside the M/C with a magnifying glass where the piston goes, you can see 2 ports. One port is about twice as big as the 2nd. The larger port will be closer to the fluid chamber, this is the pressure port, the one that feeds the caliper upon lever pressure. The 2nd port, closer to the brake line, will be the smaller port. This is the return port and will be the area of your problem. It has a tendency to get stopped up because it's so small. When this return port gets stopped up, brake fluid can't return to the M/c when the caliper heats up, hence, locked up brake. Take a compressor and blow out the M/C. It will usually blow out the return port and remedy the clogged port. The way the verify both ports are open is to pour a small amount of brake fluid into the M/C with it tilted so the fluid won't run out of the hose opening. Then , with very low compressor pressure, blow into the brake line opening and watch inside the fluid chamber to see if you can see bubbles coming through the return port, which will verify the port isn't clogged up. Once you feel comfortable "both" fluid ports are open, put it back together and you'll be good to go. As far as basic brake bleeding goes, I got tired of messing with the pump, pump, hold bleed thing and bought a professional bleeder which operates off my compressor. Cost under $200. The bleeding process takes less than 30 seconds, it's the bomb and money well spent. Your brakes need to be completely bled of the old fluid at least twice a year to avoid the return port from getting clogged up which could save you from a nasty crash. Highly recommended. Holler if you need help. JC
  3. Hey fellow dirt guys, I'm looking to move from the Memphis area ( imagine that ) to Colorado. I've been there twice with my buddies and we rode around Gunnison and Taylor Park. That's the only place I've been in and ridden in Colorado. Not sure where we'll move to exactly, but we're considering the Fort Collins area. Can someone who lives in Colorado or in the northern part of the state clear something up for me; as far as national forests goes, parks, etc., how can I determine where dirt bikes are allowed ? I'd like to obtain this information in order to help me decide areas to consider moving to. I don't want to move there and then discover I have to drive 3 hours just to be able to ride. BTW, I'm not much into fire roads and jeep trails, I'm most likely like most of you fellas and prefer single track trails. Any help would be appreciated !! JC
  4. Thanks guys ! It's great to be able to get information from someone that has already experienced a particular product. I think I'll go with RK-Tek. I'll give them a call . You can see just be looking at their head there is a lot of R&D that went into the development of the head. Someone with a lot more education than me designed that thing, it's out there for sure ! JC
  5. Yeah, it would be great if someone with some actual experience with these 2 heads would chime in. I'm in the market for something to increase the low end grunt and mid range. I'm coming off a YZ with the Eddie Sanders 345 kit which is a serious grunt monster, big time. The '17 300xc, which I recently bought, is somewhat weak down low, and that's with the Slavens Lectron Mule installed and a 51 tooth rear. I'm wondering if the "sled heads" may prefer the RK tec head because it breathes better at higher RPM's. Has anyone tried this head on a woods bike where grunt and mid RPM's rule ??????? JC
  6. Hum. One would think that a head would be available that would breathe sufficiently for the bore. Maybe Yamaha will wake up and build a 350 that doesn't weigh as much as an XR-600. Thanks for the reply !! JC
  7. Had one, don't like the euro chassis. Great motor ! I had various bikes through the years, red, green, yellow and blue, which I have now and all of them have superb chassis with various differences, just couldn't get used to the orange chassis. JC
  8. That's exactly the response I thought I'd get. I ride with some pretty quick guys and I've seen too many of them go from a 450 kool-aid bike to the 350 and they were faster and for a longer time. Even the "A" boys say they're faster on the 450 for about 30 minutes and then they're worn out, where they can ride a big bore smoker or the 350 consistently with better end results. Kalub Russell proved that. The 450 has way too much rotating mass and HP for tight woods and single track. I was hoping someone out there has done a 290 kit on a new '16 YZ-F ( since it appears Yamaha isn't going to produce a 350 ) and could shed some light on the results. It's too costly to buy one, buy the kit, spring the bike, revalve the suspension or buy 3K worth on Ohlins, an 18" wheel, handguards, etc, just to see " IF " they like the bike. I'd like to see how it compares to an Eddie Sanders 345 YZ 2T. JC
  9. Anybody done a 290 big bore on a '16 YZ 250F ? Just wondering how well it runs ? I'm a 2 stroke guy and currently have a '13 250 smoker with Ohlins suspension, recluse Pro and an Eddie Sanders 345 kit, but was thinking about a 2nd bike. JC
  10. I appreciate and respect everyone's opinion. But there doesn't appear to be a clear definitive answer, from anyone, including the manufacturer. You would think the producer of the part would give more clear and precise information on what to expect. I'm not the kind of person that's going to just up and buy something just because it's available, no matter what it is. I did a ton of research on the APT and the Lectron before I made a purchase, and decided on the Lectron because several people said there was fitment issues with the APT. The Lectron has done exactly everything as expected, per the dealer and from people that have bought and installed it. I'll stay with the OEM reeds before I make a blind purchase. Surely there is someone out there that has tried both ( on the same bike ) and knows what to expect from each valve. JC
  11. Hey guys, anyone have any experience with reed valves on a Gorr 295. I've read some and there doesn't seem to be a clear opinion on which is better in the woods. With the 295 and 14/49 gearing, I spend most of the time in 3rd and 4th and am usually in the mid range. There really isn't any reason to turn it up beyond the middle since it pulls so hard in the mid-range. I'd prefer to only have to buy one and be happy with it. Any help would be appreciated. Oh, and I am running the Lectron carb. JC
  12. Hey guys, there will be a Dirtwise school held by Shane Watts this November 15-16 at Sarah , Ms. The property is located about 20 minutes from Senatobia, Ms . The property is a 750 acre piece of land leased by SDRA ( Southern Dirt Riders Assoc ) with a 22 mile primo single track loop. There will actually be a race held there on Nov 29th for those interested. Jason Roberts, the reigning GNCC MX2 champ will be teaching the class. You can go to the Shane Watts website or just open the flyer I've attached if you are interested in attending. Also, There was some interest in attending an ""Advanced" class, so I called Shane and he said he would put on an Advanced Techniques Race Class on Friday if at least 3 people would sign up ( maximum 8 students ). This advanced one day class will be $250. If interested, email me directly so I can forward the info. There is already one guy that said he was in, need 2 more and the class will be on. This would be a good opportunity for someone interested in joining the SDRA to see the property and check it out. I wasn't able to attach the flyer, you can either go to the Shane Watts site or TRR site to access the flyer. JC Click up !
  13. OK, update on the Lectron carb. Just to refresh, I bought a 38mm Lectron to put on my 2011 Eric Gorr YZ 295. Running an OEM pipe with FMF shorty and the Recluse Pro set up for mid RPM, hard engagement with all 27 balls, 3 of which are tungsten. Carb went on with no issues whatsoever, it does require a Lectron cable which has the same length jacket, but the cable is about an inch longer. Air boot clears the spring which was an issue with the APT, and the cable clears the frame backbone. Kicked it twice and it fired up. I let it idle for about 5 minutes with a fan on the radiators and decided to richen up the metering rod. Richened it up 1 1/2 turns and rode the bike. Ran fantastic, more responsive right off idle and through the middle, where it faded a little from the OEM carb through the upper RPMs. Went back to the truck, richened the metering rod another 1/2 turn ( now at 2 turns richer ), and went 1/2 turn leaner on the power jet ( external main adjustment screw ) and it was on. Pulls harder from the crack of the throttle all the way up. Rode it about 25 miles in everything from tight single track to more open 4th & 5th gear track and afterwards there was very little spuge, just a small ring around the tip. Hard to say just how much HP it added, but very noticeable. I'd say more than any pipe I've installed, actually way more than I've ever gotten from an aftermarket pipe. I have no idea what it will do for a stock bore YZ 250, but it woke mine up, big time ! JC
  14. There is an unbelievable amount of grunt, right from the crack of the throttle. I've owned a KTM 300 and this EC 295 is stronger from low RPM and up. One of the things I didn't like about the KTM 300 is the slow response, which is due to the heavy crankshaft and ignition timing. The YZ has a lighter crank and MX ignition timing, which allows it to respond at the flick of the throttle. A "C" rider may prefer the slower responding KTM 300 since it's a little more predictable and easier to handle, where a faster "B: or "A" guy will want a faster revving more responsive YZ engine. Gorr has 3 different types of porting available on the 295 cylinder. You can read about them on his website. I got the porting that has the most low end grunt which has a very smooth power delivery all the all up through the upper RPMs. If a guy wanted more up top, he can do that. I'm a woods rider and ride a lot of single track. A GNCC guy would probably want porting that would give more power in the mid to upper RPM range. As far as the "hit" goes, most of that is gone, which makes it super easy to stay hooked up, esp. in the wet or muddy stuff. I also run the Recluse pro, another advantage in the mud. I hope I answered your question ! JC
  15. I see. Did you do this to your bike ? Can you elaborate on what to expect as far as handling goes. What did you like about it ? JC