Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About taldrz

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. Batteries plus switched me out a new battery after doing their tests. I charged it to 13 volts before taking it to them as they said it would need to be at 12.4 or higher to do testing. When I got there he said it had 8.4 volts. I left it with them and a couple hours later he called and said it was bad. Looked like the terminals were loose and possibly shorting out on the inside. They've apparently changed the manufacturing in their batteries recently to use flimsy little "tab" type clips to screw your hold downs into. He showed me on some of the batteries there, the conventional style, which looks like a 4 post square and is a more rigid fixture on the battery. Anyways, so bad battery! Thanks for all the tips.
  2. Ok, I got home yesterday and was able to start the bike with electric start no problem - it fired right up on first bump. Multimeter reads 14.3 volts at idle. When I gently rev the motor past idle and hold it, everything goes haywire. The voltage drops to 9 volts, speedo cuts off/on and headlight shimmers. I think I remember reading on the FAQ it's normal for the reading to drop when revving or at least the meter thinks it's dropping but it really isn't? Not sure if that makes sense to me but... So I shut it off and went to bed. I checked it this morning before trying to start the bike at all and it was at 10.12 volts. So overnight it dropped below 12 volts and it just clicked when trying to start. Guess it is a bad battery after all....now to play the game with batteries plus!
  3. I bought it from Batteries+ locally about a month ago on a Friday since I couldn't find it anywhere else on my side of town. I should have some sort of warranty on it if it is infact a bad battery. If they can't prove it's a bad battery I'll probably have a hard time convincing them of that. They can load test it and see if a cell is bad, right?
  4. I rode about a 25 mile round trip yesterday to town to get some oil for my truck. On the way back I looked down and happened to notice my speedo flashing off and on. When it would light back up all characters were lit on the screen. I pulled up to my gate and shot a video of it. At idle it seems normal but anything much over idle will cause this to happen: I pulled into my garage, turned the key off to shut down the engine and went to get some water. I came back 3 minutes later, turned the key on and nothing lit up on the speedo, no neutral light, no characters on screen, and no electric start. I decided to try my new kick start out but it wouldn't start. When I kicked it the neutral light would momentarily light up along with the gauge but would not start. I sat there and thought, wtf? Then turned the key off and back on and everything lit up as normal and started with electric start. Once started it exhibited the same behavior as in the video. Applying throttle, the gauge would cut out, neutral light shimmered, and I watched the headlight shimmer too. Letting off throttle everything seems fine at idle. Battery is maybe 1.5 months old, voltage is good and kept on tender. I have 12.8 with key on engine off. I recently installed FCR so I double checked RR connections and everything looks brand new and plugged in. The fact that turning the key on yielded no power to the screen got me to thinking so I took off front faring (recently modded headlight too). I unplugged the green connector that goes to the ignition switch and found some bluish green crude (electrolysis) across the red and orange wires (positive and negative). Voltmeter reads 12.6 there key off. I knocked the crust off and sprayed some corrosion X on the terminals and buttoned everything back up. Everything seems normal idling and revving in garage but I haven't ride tested yet. So intermittently working ignition switch would be caused by the crusty connections I found but would that also cause the cluster to do what it's doing in the video? Keep in mind when the screen didn't light up, the electric start didn't work either but the kick start would cause some transfer of power to it.
  5. taldrz

    MY DuRZZZ is dead..... HELP!

    Wow I thought you were going to say he just popped a new plug in it, even though you said you tried that already. I had an issue with my echo weedeater. It would NOT start and I kept messing with the carb. I checked plug and it had spark, enough to shock me when pulling so I figured it was fine. After an hour of messing around with the carb and taking stuff apart, I finally swapped the plug with another echo weedeater we have. It fired on first pull. Consequently, it would not fire the other weedeater. The plug was just trashed to the point where it sparked but didn't fire the engine. Anyways, sounds like you have some money tied up in it already, I'd procure a ride for a week or two and fix the bike.
  6. taldrz

    Drz-400s extremely top heavy. Anything I can do?

    The WR-250R is a nice bike and it does feel lighter compared to the drz. It also feels way under powered compared to a drz. I ride with someone who has the 250r and have experienced it first hand. It takes forever to wind it up to get power going, after that it feels 'ok'. The drz will run circles around it however and leave it behind on casual hills riding back road pavement. He's constantly down shifting to try and keep up with my and my uncle on the dr650 (all of our bikes were stock at the time). We all swapped bikes and he easily concurred the 400 was more powerful.
  7. taldrz

    Gravel Tire Thoughts...

    I have a mile of screwed up chewed up gravel road to get out of my neighborhood. I've had michelin T63s on (front and back) since I dumped the stock trailwings. I like the T63. It seems to perform well on road and decent enough offroad, but I haven't tried anything else yet! I can wheelie on my gravel road by just twisting the throttle so I know the back tire grips good. I always get the heebe jeebes in the gravel so I play it safe. Surely don't like the feeling of that front tire moving around but it does slide a little. People use their tractors and bobcats to try and spread the rock back over on the road but it always ends up in burms on the side. I stay off those. I live next to a rock quarry that produces all different sizes of aggregate from dolemite. Dolemite is about the hardest rock (very sharp too) there is and that's what's on the road on top of what looks like some packed caliche. My personal drive is about 900ft long of crushed dolemite and some rip-rap. No slicing of tires here.
  8. taldrz

    What did you do to your DRZ400 today?

    I just did the kickstart kit yesterday to my 2011. The install went very well except for one hiccup..the old acme manual impact hammer I have is actually inscribed wrong. I had to put it to "R" to loosen, instead of "L"...I believe it's supposed to be the other way around. After completing the install, the bike started on my 4th kick with just a couple twists of the throttle with fcr mx carb. I've never used a kickstarter before so I guess it works good! I did get it lower down on the stroke before kicking it though.
  9. taldrz

    How loud is the MRD Z-PRO?

    My opinion on the sound is it's not that bad if you're riding situation requires varying the throttle position frequently. Off road, back roads, messing around, etc... the sound is more tolerable. It really gets to me though after about 20 minutes sustained pavement time at 55+ mph. I need a new helmet but my old shoei rf-1000 does nothing to "muffle" sound from the pipe. It starts to naw at your brain cells after a while. I've thought about ear plugs several times but that seems unsafe to me. I like to hear stuff happening around me whether it's at a traffic light or going down the road with a vehicle by my side.
  10. taldrz

    impulse buy from keihin-fcr

    I'm about ready to conclude this thread. I haven't had much time to tune the bike due to other things going on but backing the screw out 1/2 turn from the ".100" gap between plastic and threaded tab seems to about taken all the initial hesitation away when riding and going from slow to WOT. No o-ring mod. With this sort of throttle response the bike is out of my skill level for riding off road but at least it's acting closer to how it should. The only other thing I might try to do is fine to the timing just a little more and possibly put in the JD needle depending on the MPGs the OEMN needle yields. I believe I'll install some sort of tiny fuel filter too.
  11. taldrz

    impulse buy from keihin-fcr

    Well I have some good and bad news. The good news is the carb is back together with improvised gaskets I purchased from JD jetting. Everything inside the carb is clean. I took it completely apart..everything except for the check balls and plugs and the bearings where the throttle shaft ride at the top of the carb. It got a good ultrasonic bath in a cheap cleaner I bought on amazon. My ap squirts a good 4-5 feet out the back now when I open the throttle. There is no more blockage in the nozzle and the squirts are consistent. The bad news is I still have a hesitation as I did before. I suspect at this point the AP screw was adjusted by someone else since it was a used carb. I found a spec online from the keihin manual that specifies .100" gap between the black lever and the threaded screw base. http://www.pbase.com/jdjetting1/image/50507859 This is where I have it set and intend to adjust the screw to satisfaction. FWIW, the squirt was missing the slide at this setting and not "nicking" it.
  12. taldrz

    unibiker guard wont fit

    I just installed the unabiker guards on my 2011s a couple weeks ago and they were tight too like others have said. I do have space between everything, very little, but it doesn't touch. The only thing I had to do was loosen the outer hose clamp and rotate it then tighten back up. It was hitting on the rod that runs in between the guard. I did leave everything loose and sort of tweaked it when tightening just to give a little extra room.
  13. taldrz

    impulse buy from keihin-fcr

    I'm afraid he'll probably just say I shouldn't have taken the carb apart because it was "working". Something wasn't quite right with it so I took the plunge and now I'm here. I wouldn't want another used one even if he offered it because I'd have no way of knowing the condition of the part that doesn't get cleaned and rebuilt. I didn't know part of the carb couldn't be disassembled prior to reading that after my issues here. I also didn't know the main reason of owning one of these (ap) happens to run right through the non serviceable region, which when clogged is essentially a stock cv carburetor. I purchased a gasket kit from JD jetting this morning and I'm going to try and make it work by cutting out the inners and possibly reusing my old outer section. I've also considered purchasing some o-ring cord stock and making the gasket by gluing the splice together. I need to know the diameter of o-rings first though. Sudco says the brand new ones are the same and you can't get gaskets for that part. Essentially, Keihin has made an $800 throwaway upgrade to our motorcycles. Hopefully the new ones outlast the bikes they're on. If not, it's cut and fit time!
  14. taldrz

    impulse buy from keihin-fcr

    It's on a linux server at work I use for personal stuff so it has a self signed cert...never purchased one since I didn't intend on using it for public things. It won't let me attach an image via the image tool as it says invalid extension. Looks like there's no gaskets for my particular carb. Another user on here cut and fit stuff together with 3m gasket adhesive though it's unclear if he used part of his original gasket to make it work...
  15. taldrz

    impulse buy from keihin-fcr

    These look like the correct o-rings, right? https://www.jdjetting.com/xcart/product.php?productid=132 EDIT: or not..looks like they don't fit the carbs with the removable intake bell