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About GasitandCrash

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  1. I have a Garmin 76CS, but I have difficulty correlating what was on the GPS with a paper map. When I zoomed in on my position I would lose the landmarks I could discern on the paper map. When I zoomed out I would lose an accurate depiction of my position. It didn't seem to be a much of a problem until I came to a place where 2 pairs of trails converged on to the trail I was on so I had 4 trails to chose from. The trails weren't used very often and were unmarked. So with the small screen, I was unable to tell which trail was which. With the tablet and with the Avenza app I am able to actually see my position depicted on the same map as the paper map in my hand. Though it could be my map reading skill suck and my eyesight is bad. Good Luck
  2. Howdy, I'm using Avenza Maps on an android tablet. Works great where I ride in Idaho.
  3. Till it hits 5th, then HANG ON!! WOOOO WEEEEEE!! As far as lugging it. Listen to Graham Jarvis riding extreme enduro. He is always a gear higher than you think someone that fast would be in. The only time he revs it is for BIG uphills
  4. Howdy, It could be that the float got stuck after the first start and you ended up with a hydraulic lock. Might be unlikely, but it is plausible. Good Luck
  5. There should be a prescribed float adjustment procedure and height specification in the manual for that bike. Good Luck
  6. Howdy, It sounds like the float height is wrong. Pull the carb and set the float height and see what happens. Good Luck
  7. Howdy If it's the starter side sealing surface polish it with some 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and run it. Cut a strip of the sandpaper the width of the sealing area and polish that area with back and forth motion around the sealing area. Super-fine emery cloth would be better than the sandpaper, but super-fine emery cloth is not commonly available. If the pits still exist after polishing it then you could clean the area with some brake cleaner or equivalent degreaser. Then mix a batch of JB weld and smear it into the pits. Make sure the pits are filled with the JB weld a little proud of the sealing surface. After the JB weld is thoroughly cured, polish the sealing surface with 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (or super-fine emery cloth) till you cannot feel the pit with your fingernails. Though JB weld is hard when cured, it is not quite as hard as the steel so the sandpaper will sand away the JB weld till it is flush with the steel surface. WARNING if you do not sand the JB weld flush with the sealing surface, the seal will, in all likelihood, not seal. The JB weld method above can also be used to fill dings in your fork tubes that cause the fork seals to leak Good Luck
  8. The head is salvageable. In fact, it looks like a great excuse to ship the head off and have it reprofiled. Looks like you may have to have the cylinder replated though. Good Luck
  9. Just a whiskey alpha golf but I would check the Power valve Good luck
  10. In order to maintain the accuracy of the torque using a crows foot, the crows foot needs to be at a 90-degree angle to the major axis of the torque wrench. Either side will work.
  11. Sweet I'll try that method next time That's all well and good, but remember that there is uric acid in urine, and that stuff is corrosive. Also though urine might help clean the chain, I am personally doubtful of its lubrication properties. Good Luck
  12. For O-ring chains, the question is: Is there more wear with the grit that gets in the dry chain, or the grinding paste that the same grit makes when it mixes with the chain lube. I am of the opinion, and no shit it's just an opinion that is not backed up by any scientific evidence, or any other data, that the dry O-ring chain will experience less wear than the lubed O-ring chain. As a result, I have not lubed an O-ring chain in many years. Even as a cheap bastard, I am satisfied with the frequency that I change the chain and sprockets. YMMV. Good Luck
  13. It's under the hill so it's definitely off topic.
  14. Yeah, but it's a dry heat.
  15. I've put DIY coolant recovery bottles on both of my bikes. Having them makes me feel more secure about my cooling situation even when I'm MILES from the nearest usable radiator water. (Drinkable water is going in my gut, not in the radiator. It's a desert thing. Though If I had to I would happily piss in the radiator to keep the bike running) With Coolant recovery system, I retain the boiled out coolant and the radiator always remains full. That way I still have drinking water even after a bunch of really hot heat cycles. High angle, High altitude, slow riding can steam the radiator a bunch. Yea, Yea push comes to shove I can probably get back to civizlation by putting drinking water in the radiator, and might not by walking out with the drinking water in my gut. As long as I have the coolant recovery system I don't worry about making that decision. Good Luck