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About NW_drZ

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  1. I never had an issue with the FX at low throttle. I just lugged the bike a gear tall.
  2. Damn shrub don’t rub it in! I’m still about 2 weeks out on the suspension. Should be shipping back to me any day now.
  3. I ended up with the tall medium gutz foam. Huge improvement over the stock seat.
  4. You’ll have a hard time finding them without someone who knows Walker. For marked trails Marty’s can be fun going up, though it’s not nearly as hard as it use to be. Funky town backwards has some fun sections that require a bit of skill. You can find that at the top of Curt’s.
  5. If you are running a cable actuated clutch, go with the CX so you get the internal pressure plate system with it. With the standard radius X you achieve free play at the perch. To do this, you tighten the perch adjuster to the point the lever has zero slack and is pulled hard against the perch. The result is a very stiff, resisting clutch pull. If you are the type that still likes to manually override the Rekluse at times this will be a problem. As keykeeper mentioned, this isn’t the case with the Euro bikes that have a dedicated slave cylinder. My buddy has the standard Radius on his CRF and his clutch pull is rock hard. Another buddy has one on his KTM and the clutch pull feels normal.
  6. If tight technical single track is your primary riding i personally wouldn't do it. I liked my FX a lot but i thought this is where it wasn't the best. The bike is tall and top heavy and just doesn't flick like the smoker. I found it kinda lethargic in these situations. For a 250F, i found the 250XCF easier to sling around the tight stuff (feels lighter and smaller). I will say though, when i owned the FX (prior to my Beta) i wasn't really complaining to myself about this as it was a fun bike to ride. It wasn't until i got my 250RR that i noticed how much more work i was putting into the gnar with the FX. Now when things started to flow and pickup this is where it shinned. Loved hammering it through the chop at speed. I also never boiled the bike which i found impressive. Even in situations where some of the 2 strokes did.
  7. Started wearing one about 6 months ago after the doc discovered the reason for the lower back pain I was having after rides. Immediately and to this day it’s made a noticeable difference. Helps keep my posture correct which allows me to stand for much longer.
  8. A 2.9lbs helmet in size Large is heavy?! Right. I weighed my poly SE4 and it’s true to what TLD states, 3.3lbs. My scorpion vx-r70 is exactly 3lbs in a large. Feels damn light on the head and when picked up. The air flow is better on the SE4 however.
  9. You wont need any extra tools for changing the springs out. Super easy process. Stillwell has a video on YouTube showing the process. I went to a 5w after I changed my springs. Springs alone made a noticeable difference in the performance of my OC forks. I did get the motion pro fork oil measuring tool on amazon. Made getting the desired level very easy. While you have it torn down, check and grease the linkage, swing arm and steering head bearings. From factory my linkage and swing arm had an ample amount. My lower steering head bearing was bone dry and was starting to cause steering issues.
  10. It’s definitely not the CR high. CR and KX high both have a lot more sweep than the stock bar.
  11. Predator size 11 (ounces) Sg-11 size 11 Side by side
  12. I personally didn’t care for the Forma Predators. I found them heavy and bulky. Lost some feeling when shifting and braking. The buckles were ok, but nearly as smooth and easy as the Gaernes. The toe box was quite cramped and narrow at the end for my normal size as well. I ended up selling them to a buddy for super cheap. With all that said, they were a quality boot construction wise.
  13. Thanks for that, so is the jug / cylinder just slightly machined off the top to the desired height?
  14. So is squish just achieved by adjusting the thickness of the gasket on the cylinder to the desired size?
  15. Great link, appreciate that man.. Question for you, if say you are happy with how your bike has performed for the 100 hours or so you have ridden and you go to change the piston, is squish something you would want to still test for while doing the top end rebuild? Or would you just go about changing the piston and rings and leave it as is?