NW_drZ

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About NW_drZ

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    Washington

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  1. Ya I'm in the forward mount with EE 10mm risers and kx high bend bars. Guts racing tall seat. I already the fastways installed so I thought it was worth a shot. The EE risers come with incremental riser pucks, so I could go higher there, but I was hoping to avoid more bar height.
  2. Going to switch them tonight and try it tomorrow. I'll report back
  3. Just curious about this.. I'm 6'2 and wouldnt mind a little more standup comfort.. Already have the tall bars (kx high bends) with an additional 10mm riser and tall seat. I have the Fastway EVO iii pegs currently in the standard height position, but know I have the option to lower them.. Just curious if anyone is running them this way and if you have had any issues? Hitting stumps, ruts and all that stuff.
  4. I'm running 710 with stock jetting and my spooge is the same as the OP. Is setting the float height relatively easy? Haven't done it in my bike.
  5. Destroyed a stock peg on the 3 ride. Pretzeled it. Went with the Fastway EVO III, standard height cleats. Now that i have experience with both, the EVO III are much more comfy and help with balance. Grip great without destroying the bottom of your boots.
  6. Sweet man! Loved my FX, and also loved my 11' WR I had before that. Be sure to post a review with your first impressions..
  7. Would you say the 90/100 in the SC5 is similarly to the fatty in overall size? I can get the fatty's here for about $90 so it's not a big deal, but if the SC5 is similar and cheaper it may be worth a look in the future.
  8. The Mb5 is considered a sand, mud tire. I run it on the roots, rocks, clay, wet conditions and it destroys. The evo is a much gummier compound than the original. May be worth a shot for you. Have run the mt16 in the past. Like that tire as well a lot. Doesn't compare to the m5b though
  9. 140 IRC M5b evo or 130 IRC M5b standard. Don't listen to HDR on his opinion on it .
  10. Also the radius x in a hydraulic equipped bike (Ktm, husky, beta) will have a similar lever pull to the core since it uses a dedicated slave cylinder that takes up most of the pressure. Obviously in a cable actuated bike this isn't the case.
  11. Pretty positive he mentioned the core as that was the subject at hand. I remember asking if I could retrofit it on my core in my Beta. Can't say for sure though that the conversation was misinterpreted. That said, the radius exp is slightly smaller where it slides into the basket grooves than the core exp. My buddies 250F required the steel inserts to make it sit flush. Positive side to this is that the steel can take a lot more abuse than the aluminum, and if they do developer grooves you can simple replace the inserts instead of the basket. Either way I'm completely satisfied with the core and the low engagement setup. So even if upgrading was an option I wouldn't drop $400.
  12. Talked to rekluse 2 days ago about an unrelated question, but ended up talking about the radius CX.. He mentioned that for existing core users they will be selling the parts to retro fit it if wanted. However, in my case it would require a new EXP ring, the friction plates and the steel clutch basket inserts for the Beta. He mentioned for a KTM it would not require all that and would be about a $200 upgrade for existing KTM users with the core. About $400 for Beta users. I've owned two core 3's both setup to engage hard and at low RPMS. My buddy has the radius X in his 250F. The engagement to me feels almost identical between the two. However, i had purchase additional parts to get my core like that (heavy wedges). The radius stock engages hard and quick for a lot less money. I was really impressed by it when I tested it. The one thing I wasn't impressed with however was how hard the clutch lever pull was for a cable actuated bike. ROCK hard. For that reason alone I would stick with the core if I didnt have a hydraulic clutch.
  13. Im running 10 psi on my fatty and it looks great after a few rides. However, the trails we tend to ride are more woods than rocks here in Western WA. Twice its been to Walker Valley which has a good amount of rock sections and its handled it great. My previous M59's would start to crack side knobs after a while at 10psi.. Time will tell with the Fatty here.
  14. The key to riding a rekluse and loving it is to ride it like a manual. Pretend like it's not there, and just reek the benefits of not stalling and saving energy when needed. Swapped bikes with a buddy a few days ago (him 17 300xc, me 17' 250RR w/ core 3 low engagement). After we road a few trails I asked him what he thought of the rekluse.. his response, "I didn't even remember or notice it in there". Said the clutch felt great and that he was riding it the same way he would on his bike. I proceeded to tell him to continue and always ride it like a manual. Seems like a lot of people that try them and don't like them, jump on the bike, abandon the clutch and let it do its thing. To this day, that still feels weird as shit to me and no way I would ride one if that was my only option.
  15. Sycamore, you see rekluse just dropped the radius CX?! A combination of the core with the torque drive frictions. Suppose to be super responsive and connected to the throttle. Core owners can get a kit to retro fit it if they want. Could be a sick set up on your 18'.