Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,443 Excellent

About NW_drZ

  • Rank
    TT Platinum Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

4,368 profile views
  1. Both the radius and core work great in Beta's. What i meant was Ive just had to set mine up a bit differently than previous bikes because of the clutch drag that is common with these bikes. Low EXP springs allow the Rekluse to engage at lower RPMs. Meaning less throttle before it is locked. The problem i have with the low EXPs is it causes the bike to drop in idle too much when i drop it in gear (on the verge of stalling). If i raise the in gear idle to offset this, when i pop the bike in neutral the RPM's raise and are screaming. As firffighter mentioned, its all about taste. Swapping springs and wedges takes 15 minutes max, its very easy to try different configurations. If i were you i start with stock and play around from there. The latest test i did was with the high engagement springs and it was by far my least favorite. I find the medium to be a good balance to get what i want. If it wasn't for the excessive drag on my bike i would probably run the low to get the rekluse out of the picture the fastest. Basically making it an anti stall device. I should mention i still ride using the clutch lever 95% of the time.
  2. Randy brings up a very good point. The radius has a harder bite and faster engagement than the Core. I feel like its suited a bit more for aggressive riders. The Core is a smoother on its engagement and is a bit less fatiguing because of its initial slip. Both can be setup in a way to kinda mimic the other but overall i definitely agree they have a different feel. When discussing the Core and the Beta, i personally think the stock setup is the best. I have tried every configuration in this bike. Beta's are known for excessive drag with their clutch. My stock clutch was almost unrideable when i first got it. Because of this i find the low engagement springs too low with the rekluse on the Beta (at least in my experience). The difference between neutral and dropping the bike in gear (lever out) and letting it idle is significant. The RPM difference is big and if you try to compensate and find an adequate neutral and bike in gear (lever in) idle, it is on the verge of stalling when you let the lever out. If you bring the idle up, than the bike likes to crawl forward and drag quite a bit and your neutral idle is very HIGH. Higher engagement on the other hand feels too much like an auto clutch. As in, you really feel the disc expanding and contracting. To me it slips to much and the engagement is less smooth and more abrupt. Feels like it robs a bit more power down low. I also dont like how it disengages more abruptly into freewheel at a higher RPM. Overall it is a much less smooth transition both on and off. Also if you like to still use the lever a lot i find this setup the worst since the rekluse interferes more. Wedges on the other hand are interesting here. The Beta stock (at least with the Core) uses 450 med wedges which are equivalent to a heavy wedge for a 250 from a competitor. So the stock wedges bite harder than my yz250FX stock wedges did. They feel identical to the heavy wedges i put in my YZ (also weigh the exact same). The heavy wedges for the Beta i tried but had to take out. With medium EXP springs i could barely get the bike to idle in gear without stalling, the drag was excessive. This was with a perfect free play gain i might add. So back to stock wedges and medium springs for me.
  3. Every Rekluse I have owned has held up extremely well. This is my stock basket after 125 hours of nasty single track. No notching. Friction plates are cheap through Pro X $65, so if your wife scorches them no problem. And yes I agree I couldn’t stand the limp lever of the Z start pro Rekluse.
  4. On hydro equipped bikes the standard Radius X comes with the external (adjustable) slave cylinder as well.
  5. There will be no clutch pull difference between the Radius X and CX. The CX just gives you the inner hub and outer clutch cover. I have the Core 3. If i was to do it all over again (bought the Core just before the Radius came out) id likely go with the standard Radius X.
  6. Couple years ago I completely submerged my YZ250FX in an Enduro coarse section. Bike had a Rekluse so it ran for a few seconds under the muddy water until it hydro locked. It was a 11 mile race loop (relay race). Fortunately I was right near the end of the loop and pushed the bike back to the pits to let my buddy take off. I pulled the tank, spark plug and gave the bike a push on the kicker. Muddy water shot 10 ft up in the air. With whatever oil I could scrounge up from other racers I got about 5 flushes in before it was my turn again. Bike fired right up and I ran 2 more laps hard (22 miles). Bike ran perfect. Changed the oil the following day and it was crystal clear. Before that second lap it was still a bit murky after 5 flushes. Put another 100 hours on that bike with zero issues.
  7. NW_drZ

    2017 beta 300rr race wiring loom

    I recently installed this on my 17' 250RR. Easy install but take your time to get everything routed properly. Seal up any exposed end connectors with liquid tape to avoid any water getting in there. It cleans up everything nicely and allows you to still run a headlight if you like.
  8. NW_drZ

    Please help me decide on a new Beta

    Solid choice! and dont think you can't haul ass on OC forks. Springs and a simple revalve made my OC sachs work great. I can rip just as hard as i did with my KYB equipped YZ250FX here in the PNW.
  9. NW_drZ

    Beta Speedo 300 RR

    I went through two oem computers on my 17’. Both never worked correctly. So I purchased the endurance II to replace them. It’s a direct bolt on to the stock beta mount. You can run the E2 directly off the internal battery if you want, you just lose the backlight capability if riding later in the day. So all you are wiring up is the speedo cable. If your OEM one is still in good condition, leave it in place and clip the end off of it and the E2 speedo cable connection and solder them together (note the 16' OEM speedo has a similar connection to the E2 so it may be interchangeable, not sure. The 17' has just one giant connection so it wasn't interchangeable). My cable was pretty chaffed where it ran through the headlight mask guide so I ended up installing the new speedo cable a few rides later. The other connection on the E2 is a lead / ground that you can run directly to the bike battery so you are not directly running off the internal battery. Some may have problems with the E2 speedo sensor as it doesn’t thread all the way through the caliper like the oem does. So if you install it and spin your wheel and get an erratic connection pickup it can be because the E2 sensor is too short. So keep your oem one in case you need to splice and use it. I didn’t have this problem, but TT mentioned it could be something since the Beta caliper is thicker than most others.
  10. NW_drZ

    Any word on the 2019 CC forks ?

    I’ve always preferred the girls who look hot with out makeup... Especially the following morning .
  11. NW_drZ

    Any word on the 2019 CC forks ?

    I actually do think that. I’m into sleek, clean, simple looks. In the car world I’d call it the “euro” look. On the 17’ and earlier REs I didn’t like the blue at all with the red. I especially didn’t like all the random sponsorship stickers. Looks like a show bike, not a woods bike to me. Too blingy.. As a matter of fact, I have a full set of race edition graphics, want them?!
  12. NW_drZ

    Any word on the 2019 CC forks ?

    RR > RE.... they look cooler.
  13. NW_drZ

    Notching basket

    120 hours on my 17' 250RR with a Rekluse Core EXP 3. All hard single track and i have zero notching on my basket. And i use the lever and slip alot! Crazy how different our experiences are.
  14. NW_drZ

    Beta RR friction plates...

    Tom I thought we were friends . 1.) roll back has never been an issue. I made all those hills in sequim no problem. 2.) I have a kicker, no reason to bump. And in case I did it takes 15 seconds to back out the free play gain and turn the bike into a manual. 3.) Never have over heated my beta nor my previous bike, a yz250fx. Can’t say the same for my manual equipped KTM buddies. 4.) I still have enough money for some kokanees at the soundview
  15. NW_drZ

    Beta RR friction plates...

    Out of curiousity why did you remove the radius?!