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About NW_drZ

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  1. I have one of these. Came as an extra part when I bought my bike new. The quality is very good. More stout and seems better made than the twin airs I have.
  2. I do the exact same step by step process as shrub. I use to use the no toil cleaner but now use oxi clean with the red oil. In my experience it works just as fast and as good. Rinses out easy and the filter looks new after.
  3. As Shrub mentioned the VE33 is great multi purpose tire.. Does everything well and lasts. Reminds me of the MT16 as far as hookup goes, but has a stronger sidewall for tubliss and low pressure. Glenn I was running 5psi last week in the gnarlier stuff (Walker Valley) and it worked great. Once I hit the flowy sections it didn't wonder nearly as bad as the 525. I generally run the VE at 6-7 as I find that is a good compromise for setting it and forgetting it.
  4. 525 didn’t last long for me here on the west side. It hooked up good for its intended purpose but didn’t handle speed good and just didn’t last. I won’t be running one again.
  5. I actually find the AER forks pretty good both on the Xc smokers and 450 xcf’s I have ridden. I got a little time on a 300xcw with Kreft worked explorers and they were fantastic in the woods. If the Yz250x had an E start I would have gone that route originally. The beta however with revalved forks and shock is very good. I have always struggled with the ktm chassis, feels scrunched to me. I always feel like I’m hanging over the front end on them. The Beta feels closer to the Yamaha which I really like.
  6. Very different bikes. The FX is a good bike but I wouldn’t consider buying one again without an overhaul from Yamaha. My 250 (granted mine is a beta 250rr) handles the tight single track much better than my FX did. Lighter, more power, better balanced and just overall more confidence inspiring. Not to mention it’s just more fun to ride. My biggest gripe with the FX was that it was tall and top heavy. Felt lethargic and laboring when stuff got nasty. When the trail got flowy that’s where the FX shined. I have a couple buddies with 17+ 250 and 300 xc’s and have ridden them multiple times, no way I’d trade a 17’ 250xc for an FX. That is just my opinion though. I’d give the XC a little more time.
  7. Washington

    Any of you dudes riding Walker tomorrow? (Saturday) Was thinking about heading up that way..
  8. Agreed. I was actually quite surprised how much lighter the stock spring was than the red. The stiffness level between each of the colored springs is pretty significant. I can barely squeeze the green at all. I didn’t mind the red spring but it’s not as good as the stocker. Already pulled it and am back to stock settings.
  9. Thanks for the info dirtbird. I was initially wondering whether these were the same springs that the KTM uses. If I'm not mistaken the KTM uses the yellow spring stock, obviously showing that they are tuned different than the Beta. Unless you are really looking to tame the bike down, preloading the PV alone is enough to fine tune how you like the Beta motor to respond. Still though, it was a fun test that didn't cost much. May see if some of my KTM buddies are interested in them
  10. Alright Beta dudes, i got out yesterday and did some testing with the springs. PNW single track woods consisting of flow, gnar, logs, roots, rocks, hill climbs, mud etc. I tested the springs in the flush position and the standard 1.5 position. I did not test the green spring and ill explain why later. Yellow at 1.5: This is where i started. The yellow spring is two steps stiffer from the stock spring. Its very noticeably when just squeezing the springs in your hand. It is a lot stiffer than stock. When entering the first trail i immediately noticed how much this neutered the bike. The actual hit of the pipe felt much later and almost laboring to get too. It felt very drawn out and quite frankly a bit boring. The 250 lost that kinda fun factor with its quick revving nature. Despite the bike not actually losing overall power, it just felt slower. What i had become accustomed to with the stock spring flush, made the yellow at 1.5 feel lethargic. As you can tell i didn't like this setting. My buddy with a 300rr agreed after riding it as well. Yellow at flush: This was better and i could see a lot of people like this setting. First thing that came to mind was "4-stroke". The power was super linear and it felt like a tractor. In the really tight stuff this was good as it was really easy to maintain traction. The bike just kinda lugged around with no surprises. Again though, the revy nature of the 250 was a bit lost and when we hit the flowy sections it just didn't have that zap that i have grown to really appreciate with these bikes. Red at 1.5 The red spring feels much closer to the stock spring than it does the yellow. I immediately noticed it brought back that fun revving motor while adding a little more traction and smoothness onto the pipe. At 1.5 you still get that noticeable surge, but the red makes it transition to fully open a little smoother as its drawn out a touch more. I found this good for overall traction and tight sections. Probably my favorite setting of the day between the 2 springs. Red at flush: This felt close to stock at flush. Quite hard to distinguish other than the slightly drawn out opening over the stock spring. Despite this feeling good, it wouldn't be enough to warrant swapping from the stock spring at flush. I didn't try the green spring because of the results the yellow produced. It would be just a tamer version that i feel would not suite my style of riding. I could see the green or even yellow being good for a beginner or someone who just doesn't like the natural nature of a 250 2 stroke. It really does give it a 4 stroke, predicatable feeling which i know a lot of people like. But for me it kills that snappy feeling of the 250 and makes the bike boring and more laboring for me. I plan to leave the red spring in for a bit and do a little more testing with it as i felt like it was a nice compromise to the stock spring. Still snappy but with a little more ease of traction in the really slow stuff. If you guys have any questions feel free to ask.
  11. Rotella T6 has always worked great for me in all my Rekluse equipped bikes.
  12. Alright you guys, just pulled out the stock PV spring and will be doing some testing tomorrow. First impression is that the stock RR PV AUX spring is much lighter than even the red that comes in the kit. So all 3 in the kit I'm assuming will tame down the PV opening speed. Im going to start with the yellow and go from there. I expect this will make a definitive difference considering its much stiffer than the stocker. Also on a side note for others that may be interested. You don't have to lave the bike down on its side to remove. I was curious if oil would leak from the cavity but it didn't. Most of you probably already know this but i just wanted to share for those that didn't. Feedback report will be coming soon. In the pic the stocker is on the right.
  13. Pretty normal spot for them to bend. Mine did that and just rests against the Hyde skid plate (between the frame rail). Seals fine still so I don’t worry about it
  14. IRC ve33 5.10 is my go to. Been around forever and just works. Similar to the MT16. Wasn’t an overall fan of the Cheater 525. Granted I ran the 110 which is just too small with a fatty front. I’d definitely suggest the 120 if you go that route. Mainly for its taller profile. Hooks up good but chunks extremely easy and moves a lot at any sort of speed with lower psi. The VE takes tubliss and low PSI very well. Where I run 5 psi on the VE id run about 8 on the cheater. It has a super soft crown. Overall the 525 does its intended purpose very well, but I found it just a little too one dimensional for me.
  15. My yz250fx with steel braided line and over sized front rotor B-. My Beta A-. The beta only gets the “-“ because some could argue it’s too strong