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  1. The differnce is proabaly dyno as the carb/ c/r and cams of you bike are worth at least 4hp at the top, my bike was built for grunt which is has in spades. new chain and a road tyre was probably a couple of hp
  2. Went with three layer cause of our shite fuel over here, it is still a commuter / trail / farm bike so grunt is what I was after, hence the cams, c/r and carb, I going to get a 150 mj and an emq needle (one between p and r) to try and lean out the midrange and wide open, may be worth a couple, this bike is 16 hp stronger than when I bought it, and its awesome.
  3. E model cams with a converted exhaust B cam made into an inlet, 39 mm slant E model FCR, 3 layer base gasket, 4mm stroker, 4mm big bore stock compression, MRD SSW uncorked, ports cleaned up, 152 MJ, 45PJ, EMP needle clip 3, shite Kiwi 95 premium gas (worth at least 1 size up in jetting), worn flat road legal knobbly at 35 psi, the difference in figures to me is important, first ever run as a poorly jetted E spec 399cc was 35.5hp at the tread, this is 10hp up and rips like a bastard. Had an EMR needle at clip 3, felt way way to lean through the mid throttle settings, hence I went with the EMP.
  4. Happy with the result, 10hp up on the 399cc version (only difference is big bore, stroker kit and pipe), topped out at 9000, on knobblies, bit rich on the needle in the mid (any suggestions)but I love the way this thing runs.
  5. Third and final dyno today' last one was two years ago with a throttle which didn't open fully, severely advanced inlet cam timing, jetting which was off the chart rich and a slipping clutch, so with all that sorted over the last couple of years and the bike being very well run in hopefully we will see some high 40's at least, up from 36 in 399cc aussie E spec on the same dyno, 41 in the shocking state of tune above as a 462 (signed off at 7000 rpm) and today. All tests were done on a well worn knobbley. Very Excite. Im guessing it was at best 30hp when I got it as a stock S on this dyno. The main reason for the dyno is to make sure my jetting is good for idle, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and wide open throttle.
  6. Do it, mine is simply awesome from bottom to top, only difference between your proposed setup and mine is I cleaned up the ports and chamber and I have a different inlet cam, once I got mine running right I haven't touched it in 2 years, I use it for commuter duties in winter and has never let me down. A 41mm carb and expensive cams will for sure give you another 5 hp up top, but the grunty nature of mine is excellent for trail work, no 450 or 250 2 stroke I have come against can get away from my full road trim bike, in fact a well sorted 501 Husaberg was neck and neck to 100mph then mine pulled away with its taller gearing, and that was before I finalized the jetting, and I'm 240 lbs. Only issue is the vibrations are a wee bit stronger, not much but noticeable, if I was to pull it apart again It would get the rotating assembly professionally balanced (get it as good as they can, nothings perfect).
  7. This build is interesting to say the least, could your perform a dyno run on you current setup, you must have baselined the thing close to standard a while back, so it would be interesting to see the difference from stock to the 462 on the dyno, mine was a 20hp increase over stockish (rejetted 3x3 no arrester uncorked, no other mods).
  8. Brand new bike, take it back to the dealer and let them sort it, don't put a spanner anywhere near it, factory warranty out the door, surely people know this by now.
  9. If its based on the Duke and RC 390 platform it will be made in India and it will be as cheap as chips, and the engine in those is proven to be a excellent little beasty. The DRZ will be out done big time, Suzuki need to bring out a 440cc big bore DRZ, injection, wide ratio gears, the suspension off the SM variant on the offroad model tuned for the purpose, better brakes, find some weight savings and update the looks, nothing much needs to change in order to bring the DRZ platform to up to date, I'm sure they could get the current engine through emissions with injection and exhaust mods, how hard can it be.
  10. Wow, nice job on the head, bugger having to do it all again really but at least now it should be pretty sweet.
  11. Buy it if its cheap, check it over inc the inside of the tank and hoses, tighten accessible bolts, change all the fluids and battery, assemble it, ride it.
  12. Wouldn't be concerned about the exhaust port, looks ok even with the blurry photo, the hole is the PAIR valve port, wont make any difference to the flow, as long as the inlet side looks ok the move on with life. I tried putting high temp kneed able metal in and it just burnt away. Having it perfectly polished is a waste of time as the carbon buildup will quickly cover this up.
  13. The curve looks great and the fueling trace is pretty close to optimum, a before dyno run prior to the mods would give you a better indication of gains, dynojets can vary greatly meaning the before and after is a better indication, but this looks good. Enjoy
  14. Your bike is pretty much the same spec as mine, with the same slant fcr drze carb, my jetting, 45pj, 152mj, EMP needle clip 3, 2.5 turns on fuel screw, and apart from being a wee bit cold blooded when starting from cold, once its warm its bang on and not surging at all, 62 PJ is massive, did you mean 42?. Haven't had mine on the dyno again, were it made a disappointing 42hp on a throttle that only opened 80% (my fault), way too rich everywhere (NCY needle, 52 PJ, 170 main, again my fault) and inlet cam probably 10 degrees too far advanced (102 changed to 112 deg, yes my fault), but it felt massively strong in the mid but the curve went downward at 7200rpm. Now it is a beast from 3000 rpm up to the limiter, I reckon at least high 40s at least. 4th gear clutch ups on the wide ration box with my 230 pounds on the back. The 462 is an awesome engine.
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