hlrembe678

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About hlrembe678

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  1. Ok I'll admit I did not read all the previous posts so if anyone else said this I apologize NOW for the repeat. Tap the fixed end, the end with the bolt head or fixture, with I believe either 5/8 or 18mm fine thread 2) insert a threaded eye bolt with a jam nut, 3) use a 25 to 30 lb slide hammer with a hook in the eye bolt. You will definitely need to secure the bike ( I use tie downs through the wheel securing the side of the swingarm I am working on and hooked to something solid on the opposite side, say the lift table or the bumper of a truck anything so that the bike can not move and I do not but side stress on the arm. when all is set give the slide hammer a work out. Not fun but it works on swing arm pivot bolts as well. this is a problem with aluminum axles more often than steel. When you are done and ready to install your brand new replacement axle give it a wipe down with Never Seize and pull it regularly and any time you ride in deep water and service it with Never seize; should never get stuck again.
  2. Leave the tow strap in the truck at least if you carry it nothing will happen if you don't and nothing still happens your golden. Carry tools nothing breaks ever no tools and you find out whats worn out. Oh yeah that's just my superstitions speaking (or one of the voices I try to ignore, there's just so many)
  3. From what I can see in the pics you dodged a major bullet. If this is just a play/trail bike put it back together, with assembly lube,check your valve clearances, put oil in it and ride it. If you race it replace the valve buckets and and check the cam bearing clearance and valve clearances and count your self lucky.
  4. And to every one that does their own maintenance or does it for a living here is a little something I do with every machine in the shop that does not have a removable key. Get an assortment of exhaust plugs, tie a bright colored ribbon to it, and before you drain the fluids shove it in the muffler as tight as you can while still being able to remove it just by giving it a twist. This really makes the engine hard to start and when it does if the plug comes out you will know immediately. Just take care where the tail end is pointing because those things hurt when they hit you at velocity. For keys I put them in a drawer in my tool center for safe keeping until machine is completely done and the check list is verified. Mistakes eat up profit and I like my profit.
  5. DKlassen, What I found when I tore it down was: piston seized at or just past top of stroke (where it remained), crank inertia literally snapped the rod extremely little evidence of stretch (no wheres near what I expected to find but still need to put it under a scope just out of curiosity) after which the rest of the rod speared through the front of the cylinder and crankcases and continued around for one more shot right into the counter balance shaft which is now bowed several mm and cracked half way through and the right side needle bearing and bore are elongated two mm or more. The engine had oil in it and it appears that the water pump seal failed dumping all of the Evans Cool into the crank case. When Evans, or most water-less coolants for that matter, mixes with oil you get a gelatin type mess that will literally clog oil passages like cholesterol in the veins of an old fat man living on a butter on bacon diet and that is what I believe started the whole chain reaction. I really do hate it for the owner cause this appears to be a truly well maintained quad.
  6. Heres how bad it could have been
  7. Hate to say it but pull the cover and cam caps because chances are the head is damaged at the cams parent metal bearing surfaces. If you see scoring on the caps and metal transfer on the cams you'll know just how bad it is. Now count yourself lucky if the damage is minor or just to the top endI am currently rebuilding a '14 YFZ450 for a customer that put the rod through the balance shaft. Damage over $2000 in parts alone. I am currently working on a set up to repair damaged heads due to the fact that I see a lot of RMZ's with the parent metal bearing failure issue. Best of luck
  8. Oh Yeah one more thing if you give up riding for a significant other start asking yourself now what else are you willing to part with because believe me you will part with everything else and more eventually. Not endorsing or defending selfishness but that is the way it is.
  9. If this sport were easy it would be baseball or soccer! Seriously though I've seen people do worse than that stepping of a curb wrong! If I had quit everything that I got injured from I'd have no interest in living because stuff happens and if you survive you get to tell the nieces, nephews and grand kids all about it. But hey, its your decision just think of all the regret you get to look forward to!
  10. Ok I've read enough of this dribble, and you guys are literally THIRTY (yes 30) years late for this discussion as ELF ran GP bikes with this set up, with and with out the 2wd, back in the late 70's to late 80's. They sold the patents to Honda to recoup some of their investment. Even Yamaha developed a sport touring bike with a similar configuration (Rwd only) it was for all practical purposes a sales failure due to the fact that reviewers all said it had handling quirks such as strange anti dive on heavy front braking (with potential early lock up aka: skidding) and total lack of front tire feedback in other words the front end felt dead, funny thing is even the riders that were talented enough to ride the ELF GP bikes said exactly the same thing. If Honda is rolling it back out it is only to hold on to their patents waiting for the day that electronics are developed far enough to compensate for the design shortcomings to be over come.
  11. I would not be surprised if the bottoms are pressed and glued rather than threaded. Suzuki does some very advanced assembly for strength and lightness. If the press and glue are used find a junk set and try anodizing them first as the process may destroy the bond. A better option may be Cerracoat in a two step process, color then clear the color can be polished before clearing as well. I personally would go that route.
  12. If you can get the RM forks and front end that is a great option as they were really good just re-spring for your weight and I suggest 5wt oil and just adjust level for bottoming control. But don't rule out re-valving for both comp and especially rebound. Other than that stay with the Honda brakes they are stronger for some reason. And that is a nice looking bike by the way. I am currently looking to build something similar for my daughter to use as a woods/x-c bike using a bored stroked 100 built to 125cc engine. What troubles did you have in the swap?
  13. One more thing on the 87-88 option; revalve for a tad more rebound dampening as well
  14. If it were me i'd put the RT Goldvalve emulators in the forks and a set of air tanks or look for a set of Showa cartridge forks from the 87-88 CR and still run tanks. I have the 87's on my 82 CR480 and love em for what they are. That being said I am considering updating because of the huge difference between the CR and my RMZ450 but then I'll definitely have to do some serious work out back as well.
  15. And yet WP, like Showa, KYB, Kehin and Ohlins, are treated as stand alone companies with their own operational overhead and R&D and given plenty of latitude to work with other manufacturers in the industry and outside of it. WP's R&D budget has no net effect on KTM's operational overhead.