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About hlrembe678

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  1. If you can get the RM forks and front end that is a great option as they were really good just re-spring for your weight and I suggest 5wt oil and just adjust level for bottoming control. But don't rule out re-valving for both comp and especially rebound. Other than that stay with the Honda brakes they are stronger for some reason. And that is a nice looking bike by the way. I am currently looking to build something similar for my daughter to use as a woods/x-c bike using a bored stroked 100 built to 125cc engine. What troubles did you have in the swap?
  2. One more thing on the 87-88 option; revalve for a tad more rebound dampening as well
  3. If it were me i'd put the RT Goldvalve emulators in the forks and a set of air tanks or look for a set of Showa cartridge forks from the 87-88 CR and still run tanks. I have the 87's on my 82 CR480 and love em for what they are. That being said I am considering updating because of the huge difference between the CR and my RMZ450 but then I'll definitely have to do some serious work out back as well.
  4. And yet WP, like Showa, KYB, Kehin and Ohlins, are treated as stand alone companies with their own operational overhead and R&D and given plenty of latitude to work with other manufacturers in the industry and outside of it. WP's R&D budget has no net effect on KTM's operational overhead.
  5. Well since KTM does not actually manufacture anything BUT their engines they have R&D money to spend there. WP does all the heavy lifting where frame and chassis, ie suspension, are concerned: from R&D to actual manufacturing. With KTM/Husqvarna being only one of WP's customers they have a much larger pool to work in for R&D than any of the Japanese manufacturers who perform the R&D on the entire package and only farm out suspension manufacturing some body plastic and bolt on parts such as controls and brakes. All this while developing their entire line up of products, I for one would not want to see the GSXR, ZX's, YZF's or CBR's go away just to get a slightly better MX/off-road bike. The Japanese bikes are all competitive with KTM/HUsky and all the European bikes for that matter KTM in particular is just on a very good run of acquiring some of the best talent as of late.
  6. As one that spent 15 years working in various shops from upstate NY to TN and GA throughout the eighties and early 2000's I too once said support local always, but the industry has changed, at least in the eastern US. What I see at the local shops here in NE Georgia is that it is no longer about building customer loyalty thru great customer service but rather arrogantly telling the customer that the dealership shop is the ONLY one that can properly work on their motorcycles and therefore have the right to charge a premium for said service. The parts departments in this area do not stock parts and must order everything and only order at their convenience if you need it right away you pick up the shipping costs for the entire order placed as well as the extra 5-10% that is added on to the suggested retail. And yes, I have been informed rather tersely that "It is just a suggested price, we have the right to up-charge for our knowledge and expertise and if you do not like it go else where." So that is why I went else where; to the internet. I can order parts on my own and more often than not do not pay shipping and still enjoy the discounted price as I work on more and more bikes and quads for others I am beginning to investigate the idea of even stocking some of the more common filters, plugs hard parts and yes even tires. Do I want to operate a shop out of my personal garage-shop? No but I also ran head first into the "Good Old Boy" network of no more shops in this town/county so no license to operate that type of business here and your to close to "somebody's Dealership" anyway.
  7. I buy practically all of my hard parts, ties included, online as my local dealers in Georgia do not stock any parts and have a bad habit of pricing at retail +5-10% and then reduce the price maybe back to retail and tell me I am getting a deal and their expertise even when I was giving them the part number. And Oh yeah I'll give the folks at Rockymountain and cyclepartsnation.com a free plug they have ALWAYS done right by me!
  8. I use the press always whether an engine case or trans case for automobiles but then again I also have a cabinet full of fixtures. The tricks are to know when to stop, know how to support the case, and how to be absolutely dead on certain the bearing goes in STRAIGHT! NEVER beat on a bearing you intend to use EVER (sorry just really anal about that last bit) otherwise if you have the time use the freeze the bearing heat the case method
  9. HOLY CRAP!! that IT is freaking gorgeous!!! did not realize I was gonna be lookin at porn tonight!!
  10. And then they turn around and just like any good sheep, I mean citizen corporation, adhere to EPA guidelines and recommend ridiculously long intervals. And it is no different in the AG equipment industry there is at least one power equipment manufacturer selling lawn mowers they claim NEVER need an oil change. And just as 317 said "the more engines I tear down the more I find this to be false." I too have been building and rebuilding engines and transmissions for forty some years and can tell which ones were run on spent oil, which ones were simply pushed beyond their capabilities, and which ones simply failed due to age, weakness or poor quality. I'll change my oil more frequently than necessary and keep the shop warm in the winter at the same time.
  11. I could live without e-start for a little while longer, I am only 55 though, but I would like to see the E-cam advance set-up found in the GSXR1000, a balanced piston shock, big piston spring forks. Honda's front brake master cylinder and all of this available in a competitive XC version not a choked down rmx parts bin bike
  12. NO No no not worth it at all you need to send them my way for disposal ASAP!! Seriously $500 for both!? yeah they are worth it GREAT find!!
  13. Anything is possible with the right tools, equipment, time patience and money. That being said you still end up with at best a Frankenstein barely adjustable shock. Take the dimensions of your shock and compare them to whats available on other more dirt oriented bikes paying particular attention to the bottom clevis and having enough room for the accumulator tank, because that could open up another whole world of issues, If the bottom clevis is too wide for your linkage it still might work by shimming but do not go crazy with shims if it is too narrow the linkage may be able to take some narrowing, again with in reason, DO NOT modify the clevis to fit over a wider linkage as making a weak part weaker is never a good idea and usually ends badly. When you find a potential replacement look up the data for it on Race tech's site and adjust spring weight to suit if you ride mainly street and the shock came from a moto-crosser or XC bike it will most likely need to be revalved and if you bought it off e-bay I'd recommend getting it fully serviced any way. If that is out of your realm send it to Race tech, Factory Connection, or the guys at A-1 in Atlanta (not sure who's up in your neck of the woods) for a rebuild and revalve it will be money well spent, except you will be looking to upgrade the front end soon after:)
  14. Just use a good quality MOTORCYCLE oil and change it regularly. My street bike gets changed every 3k miles; my dirt bikes every 6 to 8 hrs of practice and after every race. Severe usage can and DOES include daily commutes of relatively short to moderate distances since the engine will collect moisture and combustion by products not to mention the metal that is sloughed off the gears and such in the transmission. The oil in your bikes engine is the same oil in its transmission (harleys and two-strokes aside) and that same oil MUST keep the cams from contacting the parent metal bearing surfaces on which they reside. One more thing avoid additives and anti friction modifiers they are not good for the wet clutch or electrical s and are more often than not just "snake oil" gimmicks ( note for everyone I will not argue that point I have been building an repairing engines for over forty years have read all the data I can find and performed my own studies as mechanical engineering student)
  15. Manufacturers stick with plastic because its cheap, as in low cost material, low cost in labor and the molds last longer. Honda has thrown the cost equation out the window with their Ti tank for marketing reasons. Lets face it when you are building the least powerful bike in the class you need to find another sales edge to draw in purchasers. My only concern with the carbon tanks, especially one under or around the $400 mark is build quality. A stock sized tank for a YZ/YZF has honestly less than $100 worth of material in it, but I would expect the level of skill to build a quality product should be more than $200 per tank not leaving much room for profit after all other expenses are figured in. I'd be interested in knowing the country of origin and what technical specs I could on it (weight, wall thickness or number of lamination's, and what resin type and process is utilized) and use that as a base of reference. I would absolutely love to have one on my CR480R but not so sure about my RMZ450 which has a Clark translucent for woods races. To answer the durability question, a good to high quality carbon tank will withstand the same abuse your poly tank will and is far more repairable I have used carbon on everything from sportbike fairings, automotive air damns and splitters to stand up jet ski handle poles when properly constructed the stuff is incredibly durable and strong.