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About Rockrunner

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  1. That she is. Kills her limit of deer and turkey every year.
  2. We are making some street legal buggies. Can you make custom sizes?
  3. My 84 year old mother in law still hunts and rides her 93 Polaris 350L when she goes. Last week my sister in law took it for a ride and found out that it would hardly stop. She told me she was ordering new pads and asked if I would install them. So today I went down to swap out the pads. When I pulled the calipers off of the front wheels, the pads didn't look too bad, worn but plenty of pad for the brakes to work, so I disconnected a brake line. OMG, the brake fluid in the piston and brake line has the consistency of gear lube. It doesnt even drip out of the brake line. Looks like a complete system flush is in order, so here's my question. How is the best way to clean all this gunk out of the lines and pistons? Is there some kind of brake system cleaner or solvent I should use first to make sure the gunk is 100% gone before putting new brake fluid in? Is it difficult to get the air out of the lines, and if so what tricks/tips will help?
  4. Adjust your air/fuel screw
  5. Sorry for the sideways pics
  6. Here's some pics of the carb.. On the left side towards at the bottom is the bowl drain screw. There is a brass screw above which I assume is the idle/slide stop screw. Towards the front of the carb in front of the bowl drain screw you can see a forged cylindrical column. Inside that column is a screw that seams to be the air/fuel screw. There is also one picture of the right side of the carb. There is one brass screw to the left of the choke/starter circuit. Haven't fooled with it yet, but somebody has!
  7. Or improving them. Spaced out the exhaust end cap by a washer, going to cut open the air box, and got new jets to richen things up some.
  8. The only screw on the left side of the carb is the idle screw.
  9. Mikuni VM20. The air/fuel screw is on the bottom, under removed cap, between the carb bowl and cylinder
  10. I understand removing the plug, but there is very little room between the carb, cylinder, and crankcase. I'm wondering if anyone has made/bought a screwdriver small enough to adjust the screw while the carb is mounted on the motor so adjustments can be made with the motor running. That way the air/fuel screw can be adjusted until the motor reaches it's highest rpm, indicating that your air/fuel ratio is correct
  11. Has anyone found/made a tool to adjust the air/fuel screw on a DRZ 125 while the carb is installed and the bike running?
  12. Found this on the MIkuni website
  13. What year TTR should we specify?
  14. Picked up a Suzuki DR 125 for my son. Carb started leaking through the overflow drain so I've replaced the needle, seat, and float, Now it seems ok ewhen the bike is upright, but is still leaking when the bike is resting on the kick stand. Any suggestions?