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About RedMesa

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    TT Silver Member

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  • Location
    New Mexico
  • Interests
    Trail running, Mountain biking

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  1. I tried an Intellijet (refined Dynojet) on my Crf and did not see much effect. Details here: No comparison to OKO carb swap. Mine is for sale for $20 if anyone wants to give it a shot.
  2. This would work, but requires the new A/C winding which is not trivial to do. FET unit from the UK looks to be $56 plus shipping
  3. Very interesting. Looks like this is the approach Commercial products? This one is UK I'm looking for 1 hour, $20. No stator winding. Too busy riding.
  4. No, I won't buy a new stator and regulator. Too much money.
  5. I've been working on it unsuccessfully. Details here The AC voltage goes WAY high at high revs. I am going to try a switching regulator rated at over 100 volts AC driving a 24 volt relay.
  6. Here is some comparison X is a race bike with maintenance to match
  7. I may be, but I got a $5K lesson recently thanks to AJP. Aluminum and steel are not a new breed. They are either SAE grade or Euro grade (second best) or they are not. Production economics is economics. You either reap the benefits of mass production or price point determines quality. Ignore the bling. Ask who makes the bearings, the seals, and the fasteners. We shall see.
  8. Price point is too low for quality metallurgy and components. Won't last. No resale value. AJP all over again.
  9. I had an Xt which injured me and would have killed me by now. Way too much responsiveness. For technical riding the Xt forks are very deficient, especially for heavier riders. Upgrade is typically $3K and many replace the shock too. On my Crf, I put $1K into fork swap but even in rocks the Triplett mods and correct springs are quite good. The Hagon is better than stock as is a 2x4. But it is not a shock for rocks and technical riding. For that the Fox is a whole different beast… . and no longer available. The loss of Fox is a major setback in modding and promoting the Crf as amazing trail machine.
  10. Noticed this announcement: "The swingarm has also been revised and features a longer slot for the rear axle that allows the adjustment of the rear wheel to a position of up to 5mm farther back than before, which gives the rider the option to gain more straight-line stability for higher-speed tracks and obstacles such as whoops." As usual BTR is ahead of the curve.
  11. Well said. So well said I added it to the Shop Notebook. Updated BTR's build sheet here
  12. Not in their PDF sheet so you will probably have to call Cannon
  13. Well, working on the carb is part of life with a carbureted trail bike. Yes you can bend the needle or lose the circlip but the whole carb is not going to suddenly fall to bits and need to be replaced. If you're going to mod, dig in and have fun. Uncorking "state of the art" (?) is here The 230F is very tolerant of jetting for altitude. When I bought my bike used, I rode the stock carb to 12000 feet... and later discovered it had a 135 main in it. With the OKO carb, I've found a 135 main will go from the beach to over 10000 feet.
  14. Update on the OKO for uncorked bike, no internal mods. I was running Main 115, Pilot 40, air 1.25 out at 6000 to 9000 feet when I wrote the above. For Baja and low desert I went to 135 / 45. Yesterday I rode this same jetting to 10,500 feet. Still accelerating slightly in 3rd. Approaching full throttle it hesitates and stumbles. Very rich, but the near-stock bike is very tolerant of jetting.
  15. BTR, what main jet? My uncorked with OKO (PWK clone) still has Main = 135, PJ = 45, set up for the beach and low desert. Yesterday I rode at 5000 feet and at high throttle (rare now) it starts to stumble like it's too rich. Today I am going to 9000 so thinking I will go back to 115 and 40 which worked well last season.