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douggrosjean

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About douggrosjean

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  1. douggrosjean

    DR-350s Skid Plate Reccomendations?

    Hi, Looking for a skidplate for my 1993 DR-350s. I want lots of protection, as I'm really not all that great a rider off-road, and don't wish to damage expensive metal parts. Me? I'll heal... :cry: Thanks! Best, Doug Grosjean Luckey, Ohio douggrosjean@wcnet.org
  2. douggrosjean

    DR350 gastank volume... extra reserve?

    I had the same thoughts on my DR-350s, long ago. Used to commute 110 miles round-trip, and more than once ran out of fuel on the reserve tank within sight of the gas station. Would coast into the grass, lay bike down on the LH side, shake it a bit, then pick it back up and ride it to the gas station. Called those drops my "reserve-reserve". Unknown how much is in there, though. Eventually bought a Clarke tank, and range is about double what it used to be. Have gone beyond 200 miles before having to walk... Best, Doug Grosjean Luckey, Ohio douggrosjean@wcnet.org
  3. douggrosjean

    New DR350S owner

    Enjoy! I'm about to hit 50,000 miles on my 1993 DR-350s in a week or so, and another guy on here tells me he has over 145,000 miles on one. Fun bike. Not great at any one thing, but good at lots of stuff - a great bike for exploring where roads may be just about anything....
  4. douggrosjean

    Yamaha 2 Trac

    If you do a Google search, you'll find tons of articles. I'm waiting for the price to drop as well. I'm a medium-skilled offroad rider, I like to use a dualsport to explore Jeep trails and ghost towns and such. Reviews claim that the 2wd system is most helpful to intermediate riders, so there I am... <g> When the price comes down, I'd like to buy one and add a license plate and use it to explore a bit more.
  5. douggrosjean

    Baby Burr DS ride?

    Didn't ride in it. Was in the area, riding down there 2-up in the 42F rain with my 10 y/o son on my 50,000 mile DR-350s. We got to the Moonville (a ghost town) area, cutting across the ridges on various dirt roads. Sunday was pretty nice. Explored the cemetery, watched the DS event riders go by, then got back on the bike and rode home. 420 miles R/T for Saturday / Sunday. Cutting across the ridges, my son and I had a blast. But the rest of the ride, on pavement, well... the DR is not a touring bike, even if it does have a Corbin and saddlebags.
  6. douggrosjean

    Smoking 96 DR 350se

    Sounds too rich. Mine (an 1993 DR-350s with nearly 50,000 miles on it) did this when I was playing with jetting and getting only 40 MPG. Went away when I leaned the jetting out with stock parts again. It did run great rich, though. But since I use it as a commuter, I prefered having good MPG.
  7. douggrosjean

    Pilot jet parts, how do they go together?

    Before I replaced the pilot jet, I had the JX needle. With that needle and a stock bike, and a plugged PJ, the bike would idle pretty well. But MPG was bad. And didn't need much choke at all. Then a new PJ, and I went back to the OEM needle. MPG went up, needed a bit more choke to start, but figured better MPG was worth it. Good luck.
  8. douggrosjean

    Pilot jet parts, how do they go together?

    Jeff, Went through the same thing about 2 months ago with my own DR-350. Cause was a plugged pilot jet. Can get a new one for about $3 from Suzuki. Haven't been able to unclog the original one. Doug
  9. douggrosjean

    Pilot jet parts, how do they go together?

    Sounds as though you have enough fuel coming in via the needle jet and needle (even at idle), that you don't need the pilot circuit. I also bet that the engine is rich everywhere else, exhaust smells rich, and fuel mileage is poor? Are you using the JX needle?
  10. douggrosjean

    Plastic re-new?

    Just did this on my 11 y/o DR-350. It works. Takes time, though, and lots of elbow grease. Depending on the value of your free time vs. the price of plastic, it may or may not be for you. Kit consists of 3 grades of sandpaper, fine steel wool, and the Plastic-Renew formula. Sells at my local dealer for about $20. You sand the plastic with the coarsest paper, then finer, finer, and then the steel wool. At that point, you have a matte-finish plastic part. You brush the Re-New formula on with a rag, and it's about like fingernail polish. Allow each coat to dry. Fills in the matte finish, and gives it a sheen as if it just popped out of the mold. I didn't do the plastic fuel tank, I have my doubts it would work / hold up there. Otherwise: On my DR-350, I have one new piece of plastic and the rest is original. You can't tell which is which unless you're about 1' away. Best, Doug Grosjean Luckey, Ohio douggrosjean@wcnet.org
  11. douggrosjean

    Do I Really Want A Dual Sport???

    Oh, and my DR-350s has spent most of its life on Interstates comumting. This AM it was 94 miles from SO's home to work in 50F and light rain on I-75, leaving her place at 545a. A Corbin seat keeps it comfy. Stock dirtbike seats are awful on pavement, used to be like flossing with a foam 2x4 for 90 miles... Could use more power, as it's pretty much WFO to keep up with traffic. But with 50,000 miles on it, the engine is tired. Going to rebuild engine this winter. Not bigger, just fresher. Am also told that the DRz-400 has much more power, but a much narrower seat. Corbin makes a more comfy seat for those, too. My normal 30 mile comumte on rural un-crowded 4-lanes at moderate speeds gives me 60 MPG time and again. Sometimes more.
  12. douggrosjean

    Do I Really Want A Dual Sport???

    Other than the Adventure 950 and 640, I can't help on the KTM. But I have ridden a Suzuki DR-350s for nearly 50,000 miles on the street. Street-legal knobbies would be slightly spooky, but the tires that the dualsport bikes come with aren't all that bad on the street. Note: my other bikes have been sport-touring bikes (Concours, BMW R100s, BMW R11rs), so they don't have all-out sport rubber either. True that the semi-knobs they come with aren't the stickiest in dirt or on pavement, but the thing is that the bikes are so light on the street that it doesn't matter much - they don't stress the tires. My DR-350s is the most nimble streetbike I've ever owned, and as nimble on pavement as anything I've ever ridden. In a MSF ERC class, my little DR was quicker through a slalom than any of the big bikes, and could stop just as well as they could. Hoping to do a track day on my DR sometime this summer, and I may just put a set of street tires on it and call it good enough. In dirt, if it's dry the stock tires aren't bad. But wet, or sandy, or anything else, and you realize they sure aren't knobbies. Suzuki is coming out with a motard-style bike based on the DRz-400, but with wide rims and sporty rubber. Might be what you're looking for. Or, you can get street rubber in 18" and 21" sizes. Just not as sticky as all-out sportbike rubber. Some guys that are really into riding DS bikes hard on street and dirt buy a second set of rims, and keep street rubber on one set and dirt rubber on the other.
  13. douggrosjean

    Lightest full size dual sport?

    How about a KLR-250?
  14. douggrosjean

    History of the dirtbike...

    All early motorcycles were dirtbikes, because all the roads were dirt. Take a look at an early machine, say from around 1900. Try a search on Cleveland motorcycles, or Indian, Harley, or my favorite: Thor (closely related to early Indians). Typically small light singles, chain drive (or belt), pedal assist for starting or for hills. Those early machines have more in common with modern dirtbikes than with modern streetbikes. Probably the closest modern m/c to those old ones would be something like a Kawasaki KLR-650, made for everything including "unimproved" roads. The English companies had dirt models in the 1940s and 50s. Triumph Cub comes to mind. Again, a lightweight single. BMW and Harley both produced military m/c's during WWII. BMW especially had a very neat model with a sidecar and 2wd, but I don't think that's the direction you're trying to go. They went in the dirt, often even more useful than Jeeps, but they weren't the light machines we think of as dirtbikes today. Another important model would be the 1960s-1970s Yamaha DT-1. It was probably the first modern dual-purpose bike. Reason it was so important is because it was so popular. It hooked an entire generation on motorcycles, and especially popularized riding around in the dirt. I suspect they are collectible now. Trying to trace the evolution from Thor to Triumph Cub to modern dirtbike, you'd mostly find it's small changes over time that got us to the modern stuff. Lighter and lighter weight 4-stroke singles, then 2-strokes for even lighter weight, then suspension travel began to increase for more speed and comfort from the 1960s to the 1980s, and then back to 4-strokes. Hard thing is probably going to be narrowing the topic, and deciding at what point you call a small lightweight single a dirtbike instead of a motorcycle.
  15. douggrosjean

    Pilot jet parts, how do they go together?

    I think the little jets in the carb mouth are just air jets. I don't think they get clogged, as they don't flow fuel. I couldn't get them out on the 41,000 mile carb, but they came right out on the low-mile used carb that Jesse sold me cheap. I did blow out the passages (with carb cleaner and then air), but don't recall for sure where they came out. I think they're refered to in the factory manual as PAJ, or pilot air jets. I think they're used to lean out the idle mixture. Couple things that drove me crazy: Bought a #37.5 pilot jet from a m/c shop's assortment, and it was horribly rich. A #40 was better, but shouldn't have been. Finally ordered the #37.5 from Suzuki, installed it, and all was well. Though both were 37.5, the Suzuki one was a different design. The non-Suzuki had a bunch of bleed holes drilled into it, the Suzuki one did not. Made BIG difference, and not a good difference. I mentioned it before, and will mention it again. If you do get in a bind, Jesse sold me a very nice low-mile carb and an adjustable pilot screw for $40 plus $6 shipping. For as cheap as that was, and considering how many times I'd had the carb on and off chasing little tiny gremlins, it was worth it to me. One other thing - I used MPG figures to tell when I was getting it right. Commuting, my DR gets about 60 MPG. With the big pilot jet and JX needle and everything stock, it was around 40 MPG. As I got things cleaned up and closer to "right", MPG came up. It ran really good rich, but stunk. And since I sometimes have a long commute (as much as 94 miles one way some days), I really wanted the good MPG.
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