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vitracker

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About vitracker

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    Newfoundland

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  1. So i'm gonna try and go at this tomorrow. For the new bolt, the yamaha part number is 95827-08012-00. If I'm not mistaken this means that it is a is an M8 bolt which is 12mm long? I just want to be 100 sure incase the bolt that is in there now is not the right size. Also any idea on the thread pitch?
  2. Thanks for the pointers. I'll take some measurements and report back.
  3. When you say chase the the threads, do you mean put a tap through that is the same of the original thread?
  4. I`ve heard of those before, but have no experience using them or where to go to find them. I`ll do a little research though. thanks.
  5. Hello suspension gurus! This is my first time venturing out of my make/model forum because I feel like my question could be better answered here. During winter 2013-2014 (the winter before last) I did a overhaul of my linkage, shock and swing-arm bearings on my 2004 yamaha wr250f. At the same time I had my from fork serviced professionally and reset to factory settings. I only usually get out on my bike maybe about a half dozen times a year, but I noticed that my rear suspension is much more "bouncy" (for lack of a better word) than the front. It also sinks down quite a bit in the back when I sit on it (more than the front). I weigh about 185 fully dressed. So my main questions are: is it normal for the rear to travel more than the front? how far should the seat be dropping when I sit on the bike? how to do I address this "bounciness" and sag when I sit on the bike. I am pretty sure that it is the original shock and spring. Let me know if you need any other info for my situation and please give me any suggestions!
  6. So my drain plug has been progressively getting worse, it took quite a bit of effort to take out today when I went to change my oil as part of getting the bike ready for summer. When I went to replace it, it started turning free about 5ft/lbs before the specified tightness. I'm just wondering what the least intrusive way to fix this is? I saw a few other posts about stripped drain plugs but many related to the actual bolt head, not the threads or were referring to aluminum framed bikes. It looks like the threads on the plug itself are quite bad, so maybe a new plug and running a current size tap to clean up the threads will work. Or should I got up one metric size with the bolt itself? I figure if I take my time, use heavy grease and a vacuum I'll be okay for shaving, in addition to the strainer and oil filter. Does anyone know if there is enough material on the sides for me to go up a size? And also what is behind where the drain plug hole is on a steel framed bike? I would rather tap it than use jb weld or something similar, but I'm open to all suggestions that don't involve a full disassembly of bike and engine. Thanks
  7. vitracker

    New Member says hello and a few ?s

    I have the power core 4 on my bike (came with it) and it is also far too loud ( and I'm only 21!!). I would not recommend it.
  8. vitracker

    Title for 2006 wr250f

    So jealous of all of you guys in the states who have such an easy time getting a title!! My bike never came with one and they told me unless you find the last person who had the title and bring it in signed, there is no way to get a title. Period. The DMV doorway is literally the gates to hell.
  9. vitracker

    Stuck swingarm bolt-how to remove?

    I had one hell of a time getting the swing arm bolt out of my wr250f this winter. Here is what I needed for the job: a 1 foot piece of threaded rod (whatever size fits best inside your bolt) and 4 washers and 2 nuts of the same thread. A large diameter deep socket (24mm I think I used), a brass punch, and the 5 lb hammer. I threaded the inside of the square side of the bolt as far as I could (~3inches) and screwed the rod into the swingarm pivot. I then put the socket over the rod so it was pressing against the frame. Then I placed the washers over the socket and then screwed a nut on. Once the nut was on I turned it until it got hard to move, went to the other side and smacked the nut side of the swingarm pivot with the hammer and brass punch. I repeated this back forth for over an hour and I finally got it out!!! It was a happy day. Lol.
  10. That thing is awesome man. There are very few samurais left in my area. The rust has killed them all. For that matter there is only a dozen or less sidekicks left on the island too. Maybe someday I'll drive down south and grab a clean one. I really wish they never salted the roads her in winter.
  11. I was thinking about the grabbers but I've heard really mixed reviews, but on a light rig it shouldn't matter much. At the moment the Kelly Safari tsr's or BFg ta seem to be calling my name more than anything. Here is what they are going on.
  12. Not not running any lockers at the moment but I will be putting a lock rite in this summer if time permits. I'd like to go with something a little more smooth and nicer on the road but the lock rite is basically the only option on these rigs. I'm mainly after ground clearance though because the trails around here tend to be really rocky. Plus I'm trying to make it look less like a dinky haha.
  13. Well I'll have 4 inches of lift total with the body lift so ill likely go with 31s. I know these things like the back of my hand and access to a couple scrapped gvs/trackers. Thanks for the input though.
  14. I plan to in time, but they are getting hard to find and people want way too much for them. Mine is a 2003 SWB. What benefits would come from running the 30 or the 31?
  15. I'm on my second front dif right now (aluminum) and it is cracked on the mount again. I just chained it it yet crossmember now though. Horrible design, the second you are stuck and try to reverse it's done. Other than that though it's been pretty indestructible.
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