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  1. Highway Dirt Bikes switch and mount setups are real slick. Get a double switch perch mount: one for your lights, one for a manual rad fan override. http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=switch_mounts
  2. Lectron is another option. I can't recommend it from personal experience, but it looks interesting for its simplicity. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1150077-video-power-in-a-box/
  3. 148am

    Tank pannier?

    What about using a hydration pack with some storage space instead? This one is a waist pack, and I wouldn't call it cheap if you're buying new. But there's a million-and-one varieties there, always something on closeout or look for used.
  4. Light tapping on the caliper and MC can help move small stubborn bubbles up to the high point in each part. Tap, wait a little to let the bubbles rise, then pressurize the line and crack the bleeder. My bike has a stainless line and I'm not sure if this is true of the stock line -- I found that the 180° bend in the line up by the shock was sitting high relative to the MC and caliper. Once I got the line moved a bit, that collected air moved down to the caliper and out.
  5. I've never seen a full aftermarket lever, but you can find a nicer clevis for the back of the lever that'll have less slop than the stock setup. Zeta, Yoshi, maybe others.
  6. Got it, thanks for explaining. I have no first hand experience with this carb but I've seen it mentioned more than a few times that it performs much more consistently over a wide range of elevation. I can definitely get behind that if it's true. For those who don't ride in an area where that's a concern, well then it obviously doesn't factor.
  7. Why do you say that they're snake oil?
  8. There's no torque spec listed in the FSM but since the case half bolts of the same size/type/material get 10Nm, that's what I use.
  9. An add-on plate is a cool idea. You could leave a rotopax mount fastened to the plate, drop the plate on and you're ready to go get lost. Or cut some hooked slots on the downturned edges of your plate as strap loops. Sky is the limit, of course.
  10. Nice and tidy, and I do like the bare stainless. I'd estimate it's a little too light-duty for much of a load, but as an around town rack to hold a top bag or similar, I bet it works nicely. Your bungees are in the way -- you have flat plate across the center for subframe attachment, or is that round stock there, as well? Edit: nevermind, I zoomed in and see the round stock now.
  11. Post what you come up with, I'm curious.
  12. There should be a fair bit of play in the return cable, or you'll get a throttle that doesn't snap back like yours is doing. As a test, disconnect the return cable from the carb to see what you get, then hook the return cable back up and adjust until it snaps back properly. Don't forget to turn your bars to lock both ways to make sure you have enough slack so the throttle doesn't get pulled open.
  13. Thanks again, Noble. Bowl vent is what I was referring to. PO did the smog delete and put a Uni crankcase breather on the end of the vent line where it used to hit the breather valve for the charcoal canister. Seemed overkill and I had never seen that mentioned anywhere, but like I said, he was probably just playing it safe. Can't fault that approach.
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