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RussTheRush

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About RussTheRush

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    Nevada

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  1. https://www.riderplanet-usa.com/atv/trails/info/nevada_07566/ride_f099.htm Bull Ranch Creek is 2 hrs from me. Heading there this weekend. Use that site, though (Rider Planet) and you'll find almost everything.
  2. I say you're on the right track. My thoughts are with the manufactured batch of conrods that were installed. It might have been just a set number of conrods that were bad, but a metric ton of others were fine. But for KTM, or any company, its a lot cheaper to recall a bunch of parts than fight a bunch of lawsuits (let alone be responsible for injury or death), so they're just sweeping out the possibility for failures. Perhaps those conrods were forged and inspected on Friday at 4:55pm...
  3. I wouldn't be after 5 years of still going strong... but then again... [emoji354] [emoji378]
  4. RussTheRush

    YZ250 Fuel Knock?

    Switched to a colder plug and all my woes seem to be gone.
  5. RussTheRush

    15 Simple Foods to Fuel Your Workouts and Races

    This article was easy for me to digest... thanks for the info!
  6. RussTheRush

    15 Simple Foods to Fuel Your Workouts and Races

    This article was easy for me to digest... thanks for the info!
  7. RussTheRush

    15 Simple Foods to Fuel Your Workouts and Races

    This article was easy for me to digest... thanks for the info!
  8. RussTheRush

    Dragging Clutch

    Just a follow-up post on this topic. Transmission is doing well, clutch operation is smooth and doesn't drag. I'm a happy camper.
  9. RussTheRush

    Tight glove = arm pump

    I'm glad this post came up. Had the same exact problem a couple days ago. Hadn't washed my gloves since the last ride, and it seems my sweat is contributing to shrinking them. I could definitely tell the arm pump showed up a lot quicker than when I first got those gloves. With that said, who has good experiences with different brands of gloves? I'm on a pair of Fox Dirt Paws, and they've been pretty good, but now I'm almost thinking of getting a pair of Mechanix light duty gloves. Any thoughts?
  10. RussTheRush

    YZ250 Fuel Knock?

    An updated Mikuni TMX 38-27. Same as original, but different pilot jet style and choke knob.
  11. RussTheRush

    YZ250 Fuel Knock?

    Yes That was my initial concern New carburetor is updated with different pilot jet dimensions than original carb. Once was 45 stock, new stock size in updated carb is 20 or something like that. I'll have to report back on the slow circuit jetting. I think 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 turns out. If you get a chance to watch the whole video you may hear it. I was a little more focused on having a good time that ride. I'll post up again later after another good run and a plug chop.
  12. RussTheRush

    YZ250 Fuel Knock?

    Once I'd pull in the throttle and coast, it would rev a little high, then settle down relatively quickly. Other than that, yes it did run great, but I think I need to go up one on the main jet. Ran pretty good like you said.
  13. RussTheRush

    YZ250 Fuel Knock?

    Hey, folks. Thanks for following this topic. I know it's been a long time in the works, but I'm confident with where I'm at now. In relation to the above clutch issues I was having, refer here. That remedied a good bit. As for the remainder of things, I was still running hot. I ordered a colder spark plug and couple richer main jets (380 and 390, incrementing from 350 stock), and the bike seems to be running better. In the video below, I'm running a B8EG plug and 370 main. Didn't get the 380/390 in time to try those. I did raise the needle to the bottom clip position and it was too rich, so I stuck with second from bottom and I had plenty of power. I'll leave this topic open for further comments and once I get the richer jets in I'll post how that goes. As far as I can tell though, things are looking pretty darn good!
  14. RussTheRush

    Dragging Clutch

    Thanks, subxero. I checked the cable linkage to actuator; pulled in the clutch lever with the clutch cover off to observe actuation; clutch boss, basket, and pressure plate are new (old ones notched); new long pushrod and ball bearing; new fibers and steels pulled from an unused engine (all within limits, zero evidence of usage). Operation of the clutch lever is now smooth as butter, like a new bike on the showroom floor at the dealer. Only OEM parts have been installed. Started off with 80W fluid, switched to ATF type F. Thanks, Tankslap. I figured I'd wait it out on the plates and instead rode the bike several blocks away from where I live to the local repair shop. The mechanic called me back a few days later when he was able to get to it. He said as it warmed up, he noticed it felt smoother and it loosened up. He advised to ride it, drain the transmission while it's hot, refill with ATF type F (love how cheap and accessible it is!), ride it a couple more rides, rinse and repeat. He said he believes the 80w I was using was real sticky and absorbed into the cork on the friction plates and just needs to get ridden out. Also noted it may be possible the plates have a short break-in, but I don't know much about the molecular physics of clutch assemblies and fluid dynamics. After having done one ride for maybe an hour, drain & fill, then another ride for another hour or so, I can honestly say it does in fact feel significantly looser, in terms of friction and steel plate separation. As the bike warmed up, I attempted to start it up in first gear, which it did just fine. I had your problem, too, but after the second ride with fresh ATF type F, I was able to kick over the bike while in first and the clutch lever pulled in. Hope some of my experience helps sort out any suspect discrepancies. In summary, I would say I need more ride time to really get the perfect separation of the plates. I'd say no more than 2 transmission fluid changes and I'll be straight. I realize now after having done this project that I had two discrepancies: the first being tough clutch lever pull, and the second being the dragging clutch during clutch disengagement. Affecting the tough lever pull were the notched basket and boss/hub and the old friction and steel plates catching on the grooves; affecting the dragging was my use of an excessively heavy weighted transmission fluid for my application, in my case 80w. Also likely affecting the distance of plate separation was a worn clutch long pushrod and ball, with were replaced. Flushing the transmission with diesel fuel proved effective in cleaning out everything to prep for use of ATF type F. I hope this helps someone else. If anything changes, I'll add on to this topic. Please, if anyone has anything else to add, I'm sure many others out there would appreciate it. Thanks for all the comments.
  15. RussTheRush

    Dragging Clutch

    Good thoughts with the perch. I'd actually thought the same thing, so I already have an OEM lever and perch installed.I get what you're saying about the measurement of the clutch stack and distance between the hub and pressure plate, but where would I find a magic number that tells me the disengagement clearance is sufficient, let alone calculate it? Thanks for you input.
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