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BryanK

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About BryanK

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    Ontario
  • Interests
    TaeKwonDo

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  1. Don't make the mistake a lot people make comparing the price/performance progression of electronics to other technologies. You cannot compare them. Usually the physics gets in the way on more mature tech like electric motors, heat engines and batteries. We are just starting to hit the physical limits of current electronics in silicon.
  2. One trick I am working on for tight turns, is to use the outside tree as a berm. Actually aim for it and bounce off it. There usually lots of slippery roots in these turns, so you tend to slow down so you don't slide the front tire out. If you turn later, at the tree, on the outside, you miss those roots and can carry more speed. Also you don't have to worry about blowing through the turn since more than likely that tree you just bounced off won't move. Not every turn works this way, but you would be surprised how many can be done like this if you look for it.
  3. Very interesting... why did this happen? Did batteries somehow become more efficient? Higher energy density? Nope. It wasn't entirely due to better electric motorcycles it was due to the characteristics of the standard gas engine. Gas engines loose power at higher altitudes, electric vehicles don't. A very unique situation. Maybe next year someone will turbocharge a Multistrada and take the title again.
  4. Might be a leaky injector. There FI system stays under pressure when shut off, so some fuel might leak out over time if the injector is leaking.
  5. I have had a Reckluse on two differerent bikes (DRZ400E, FE450) and could stall the bike. It wasn't a common occurrence but it was possible. If you did a very sudden "panic stop" from higher speeds and quickly locked the rear wheel, the clutch would not have enough to disengage and the engine would stall. No big deal really, just hit the starter button and off you go again. This would never happen in regular aggressive riding.
  6. Everyone wears MX boots, you will need the protection. The issue is to wear comfortable boots. Hands down the most comfortable (and possibly expensive) boots are the Sidi Crossfire boots. I can wear mine, and walk in them for hours with no discomfort. They are fairly waterproof, as much as you will get with any MX boot. You can also install an enduro sole. http://www.btosports.com/p/sidi-crossfire-sr-mx-enduro-replacement-soles If you don't like the Crossfires, look for a boot that has a hinge at the ankle, it makes a huge difference.
  7. That is Step 1. Step 2 is to learn to love the rut. There are basically two type of ruts. Straight and in turns. For the ruts in turns you need to practice riding in figure 8's. This will teach you to "Love the rut" as it allows you to rail the turns at amazing speeds. Its great fun when you get good at it, but is actually harder than it looks. The other thing for ruts in turns is grinding. Shane Watts has a video about it, look it up. Grinding works great on corners with deep ruts. Grinding is actually easier than it looks. Step 3 is to learn to ride the straight ruts. If you have a heavy bike (like a KLR) it will always tend to go into the bottom of the rut no matter what you do, so you might as well just point the bike there. Your WR is lighter and more nimble, so you should be able to pick your line and hold it without sliding in. Good tires help, but the main thing is precise wheel placement. You only need a few inches to ride on, you need to practice precision riding. Shane also talks abut this. You also need to practice crossing the ruts, which can be tricky, but should be manageable on your bike. Once you get all these skills down, ruts can actually be fun. Nobody said it would be easy.
  8. Get rid of the Trackmaster. Worst Tire Ever. If you air them up, they feel tippy in the turns because of their square profile. If you lower the pressure to get some traction it feels like the tire is flat. Horrible tire, deadly handling. I installed a set of Geomax MX51 tires on my DRZ400 (and my Husaberg) and they made a noticeable different in the ruts. They track straight and don't want to run out of the rut. Dunlop says: "Recessed biting edges in shoulder tread blocks yield enhanced traction for greater grip in corners and ruts throughout a wide range of terrain conditions" And its true! Go figure, truth in advertising.
  9. Wrong. The rear shock is not compressing air. The bladder will get compressed as the shock compresses and displaces some oil, and that will cause the gas in the bladder to get hot. Then what happens when the shock extends? It cools as it expands, like the working fluid in your refrigerator. The heat in the shock comes from the dampening oil being forced through a restriction.
  10. A lot of offroad riding is counter-intuitive. Like, "Go slower to go faster". One thing I have found that is totally counter-intuitive, is what Shane Watts calls "grinding". This is where you ride the rear tire in the rut and the front tire follows the outside of the turn out of the rut. It actually works very well if you practice. It looks unstable, but the bike is very controllable. Another thing is criss-crossing the main line in the trail and taking the outside of a turn, then crossing over again to the inside to avoid the rough stuff in the middle.
  11. The '09-'12Husaburgs will actually boil the gas since the tank wraps around the exhaust pipe. And the rear shock gets toasty hot too. I wrapped the rear section of the exhaust and added a layer of areogel insulation under the tank which solved the problem on my FE450. Everything gets hot hot hot on those bikes.
  12. Your bike only requires a line a few inches wide. The fastest, easiest line is often off to the side of the trail where it isn't so rough. Look for it and use it. However you may have to cross the main track a few times back and forth to keep on the smoother path, but this is usually easier than it looks. A pro class enduro rider told me this. Shane Watts also talks about this in his videos. Easiest way to handle the whoops? Ride around them!
  13. Good for you! A few things to remember. For enduros, ride your own race. Ride to finish, not to win. You will need enough skill to ride fast enough not to get stuck all the time. You will also need enough skill to maximize your energy conservation. Riding to the point of crashing is a bad idea. Not only because you will get hurt, but because it sucks all your energy. Getting back on the bike, getting the confidence and rhythm back is tough. Plus, you will never make up the minute you lost getting back up. You need to settle in a comfortable pace that you can sustain for an extended period of time. That is your race pace, not the guy in front of you. For most of us, racing enduros is mostly a race with yourself. Very seldom are you racing wheel to wheel with someone in the same class as yourself. Remember, ride to finish. You can't place well if you DNF. After you get the skill and confidence that you can finish an enduro, then you can start getting faster. Make it your goal to always finish, forget about where you place. I guarantee you, that if you finish every event, you will not be last in your class.
  14. Sounds like you need to ride more technical trails, Less speed, more skill required. A get-off at less than 25kph is usually no big deal, but maintaining that rate in the tight stuff is not easy. Also, ride that stuff with guys that are better than you. Experienced guys ride SLOWER in the fast (easy) stuff and FASTER in the slow stuff. Anyone can twist the throttle and hold on. Get yourself out of that mode, and ride some trails that take serious skill to master.
  15. I always do well on the grass track sections. The secret to speed? Ride it like its a street bike on a track which means use LOTS of counter steering. Push the inside bar with some force to push the bike over in the turns. You can lean it way over, almost scrape the pegs, no berm required. If it is dry you will amazed at how much traction is available. Most dirtbike guys don't know how to do this or don't know how to do it well. Heck most street bike guys can't do this well either, but its a real blast when you figure it out. Don't; know what counter steering is? Educate yourself and practice it. It is NOT sliding the rear end out like a flat tracker would do.
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