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About MilleonAir

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    TT Silver Member

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    United Kingdom
  1. MilleonAir

    What CDI box do I have?

    Thanks Noble. I don't think they brought the kicker model into Europe. Is it possible the CDI is from an earlier E model then the one I'm working on (03)? It works OK with the E-start on the 03 and the clutch disengage switch works too. Cheers Ian
  2. MilleonAir

    What CDI box do I have?

    Hello Neil! I'm a frequent lurker these days - I ride a KTM 200EXC in South Eastern enduros! My DRZ now lives in Devon. The new owner traced me through a label on a box of parts that came with the bike but was also researching DRZs and, when he saw my old posts about powder coating frames, FCR carbs and motard wheels, realised he was reading about his own bike!
  3. MilleonAir

    What CDI box do I have?

    Hi, I did a bit of searching but couldn't find a definitive answer. I have a CDI box I was sold as for a DRZ-E, about three years ago. It works in a friend's DRZ-E I have in my shed at the moment but has a slightly different number on it than the one fitted to his stock E bike. My CDI has the following numbers: MGT027 F8T36971 9Y09 and the Mitsubishi logo Is it an E model CDI or something else? Which bikes is it compatible with as I'd like to eBay it and describe it accurately? Cheers all, Ian
  4. MilleonAir


    Dude, sell your grandmother, your car (Hell, you've got a DRZ for short trips and Greyhounds for long distance, why do you need a car?), anything. Just buy that bike! Ian
  5. MilleonAir

    Again jetting issues for orig carb

    I think you've got a problem caused during the DJ installation but not related to having incorrect jetting. I'd put everything back to stock and go ride to discover what the problem is. Establish where the problem lies then put the DJ kit back in with Burned's jet recommendations. Have you lost the little O ring from the top of the carb? Is the diaphragm properly seated? Is the carb properly connected to the boot between the engine and the carb? Ian
  6. MilleonAir


    Neil, I have three mates with DRZs so I'm always working on them, swapping countershaft seals and stuff. I'll always be around on this site. I love my 2-smoke KTM 200EXC - it's the perfect enduro tool. As I'm doing lots of enduros, the DRZ has to go. I just bought a used SV650S, too - I swear it's got two DRZ engines bolted together! Cheers Ian
  7. MilleonAir


    I trashed the original plastics on my DRZ-S and, when I converted it to a motard, I bought black Acerbis plastics. Now I'm selling the bike so I bought Ufo plastics to make it look gorgeous for the eBay ad. The Acerbis plastics are excellent - at least as good quality as the originals if not better. The rear fender has clear marks to cut for fitting to the S model's different subframe and the rear fender lugs for the S model's stock taillight are there, too. All plastics (apart from cutting the rear fender) fitted absolutely perfectly and there were no marks or waste plastic from the moulding process. The Ufo plastics were, in comparison, very poor. The rad shrouds are thinner than the originals. The rear fender has no cut marks for the S subframe and no taillight lugs. The right hand sidepanel had one advantage over the Acerbis item - the reflective foil, foam block and front mount grommet were all included. The panel fitted reasonably well but, after clipping to the front mount and bolting to the subframe, still had to be flexed to fit the seat fixing. But Ufo's left sidepanel and airbox covers were terrible - neither fitted and a lot of cutting to the plastic that forms the airbox seal had to be done to make it seat a little better. The edge between the sidepanel and airbox lid is not a smooth transition at all - the sidepanel is too flat (and contacts the battery) and the rear edge of the airbox cover is 3mm higher than the sidepanel plastic at one point. Acerbis stuff is a little harder to get hold of in the UK. I'm not sure what US supplies are like but I'd strongly recommend Acerbis plastics over the Ufo stuff as they're so well made and easy to fit. Cheers Ian
  8. MilleonAir

    where can i get this decal from?

    That's gratuitous use of acronyms, right there! Ian
  9. MilleonAir

    Maximum rear rim/tyre width?

    It's the opposite with Motard tyres. 160s are much more readily available from more manufacturers and at lower prices than 150s. I just bought a pair of Dunlop D208 in 120/70-17 and 150/60-17. I'll let you know how they fare. Ian
  10. MilleonAir

    DRZ400 vs KTM525

    The DRZ is a dual sport bike - it's made for trail riding and street. The KTM is an out and out dirt bike and is designed for competition. If you're the kind of person who rides, washes the bike and garages it for next time, the DRZ is your bike. If you want a bike that is committed, fast and very capable but you like spending as much time wrenching as you do riding, the KTM is great. Ian
  11. MilleonAir

    What Comes First?

    I didn't think you had to do valves and springs. You definitely do those for the 11k Yosh CDI. I'd go cams first, big bore later. Ian
  12. MilleonAir

    A second DRZ-TT project?

    You can have my PAIR valve. How were you going to get this bike through Euro emissions test without a PAIR valve? I think I just saved the whole project. Ian
  13. MilleonAir

    FCR conversion the "burned way".

    Try Taylor Racing for Suzuki spares - they've never let me down. Allens Performance are the place to go for Keihin jets and needles. Cheers Ian
  14. MilleonAir

    FCR conversion the "burned way".

    Burned, This is my carb from a WR426. Is it an MX? Cheers Ian