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Dirty_Sanchez

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About Dirty_Sanchez

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    March Fishing, Pud Piddling

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  1. Team-need some help here getting the Installed Gap figured out with the Rekluse Core EXP clutch on my Son's bike. We bought a new '12 250SXF with a Rekluse Core EXP installed from the very start. Jr. completely smoked the clutch on a ride awhile back after getting stuck on a sand bar way deeper than the front and rear axle (but that's another funny story). The drive plates and friction plates were toast so we replaced them with new. I've watched the Rekluse installation vids until I'm blue in the face, I'm doing what they say to do, am adjusting what they say to adjust, but still can't get the Free Play Gain adjusted....at all. Using the Dial-A-Gap adjuster, the Rekluse instructions say to find the starting point by turning the Dial-A-Gap clockwise until it lightly seats itself. Then the directions say to continue turning the Dial-A-Gap clockwise another full turn in plus two ticks using a 5mm allen wrench. I've done this correctly. Now to verify the Free Play Gain, with the bike in neutral, you start the bike, and with light pressure on the clutch lever you blip the throttle a few times up to roughly 5k rpm to confirm the end of the clutch lever moves in or collapses 1/8". The instructions and vids say that if the lever doesn't move in, turn the Dial-A-Gap CCW two ticks out and check for the Free Play Gain again. We did this. Still no movement of the clutch lever We've turned the Dial a gap out a total of 6 tick marks out from that 1.2 turns in from the Starting Point and the clutch lever still doesn't move in at all. I don't want to screw anything up. Does anyone have any helpful hints? Do I try 8 tick marks? 10 tick marks out? Big Thanks for your input! Dirty
  2. Dirty_Sanchez

    Top Triple Clamp Offset Help Needed

    I did go up a tooth on the front sprocket which shortened the wheelbase a skosh compared to stock gearing. Front end nervousness/twitchyness/headshake didn't seem to be affected much with the change in wheelbase. The riding sag is set correctly and I have tweeked and fiddled with this setting over the last few months after I got the boingers back from a revalve and respring on the rear from Super Plush out in SFCA. I've gone up and down on the compression and rebound on the front end as well. The bike is a freakin' bear and makes me smile like a stupid kid with a brand new mini-bike on Christmas morning everytime I take her out, but the smiles stop upwards of 80. Do you think slowing the rebound a few more clicks might help? It's the strangest thing, not sure if I mentioned, but when I had a bone stock suspended 640 Adventure a few years back, that thing was super stable at more than 100, but getting this 690 dialed in is giving me fits. Thanks for your input. Dirty
  3. Dirty_Sanchez

    Top Triple Clamp Offset Help Needed

    Thanks Man. I wanted to pose the question to the board to save myself roughly 4 hours of wrenching with a 50/50 shot at improving the situation. Ride Safe 24seven! Dirty
  4. Team- I realize this is an LC4 related question, but bikes in this folder do have adjustable offset steering tubes-thus the crosspost. Just checked the pn and the dot orientation for the steering stem and the top triple on my '12 690. From day one above 75ish mph's, I'll get headshake from hell. At higher speeds, the front end is very nervous. On the other hand, a few years back I had an '07 KTM 640 Adventure and that bike was rock solid stable even above 100 mph. The top triple pn on my '12 is 765.01.034.031 Then as you're sitting on the bike with the large nut on the top of the steering tube removed at the 12 O'clock position, the top of the Triple Calmp reads "30". At the 6 O'clock position it reads "32". The dot on the steering tube is at the 6 O'clock position indicating it's in the "32" position. Questions: The dot at the top of the steering tube was delivered from the factory at 32. Does this mean the offset is at 32? Does this mean 32mm of offset? By rotating the the steering tube so that the dot is at the 12 O'clock position it will line up with the "30" Does this mean the front end will have 30mm of offset? By placing the dot on the lower "30" number, will it give the front end MORE stability since the trail will increase? Imma dumbass from south of Interstate 10, so please confirm: Larger offset numbers give less trail >>>less stability. Smaller offest numbers give more trail>>>more stability. If we get this nervous front end sorted in terms of the "dot" orientation, it'll benefit the rest of the 690 owners. Thanks for your input. Dirty
  5. Team- Just checked the pn and the dot orientation for the steering stem and the top triple on my '12 690. From day one above 75ish mph's, I'll get headshake from hell. At higher speeds, the front end is very nervous. On the other hand, a few years back I had an '07 KTM 640 Adventure and that bike was rock solid stable even above 100 mph. The top triple pn on my '12 is 765.01.034.031 Then as you're sitting on the bike with the large nut on the top of the steering tube removed at the 12 O'clock position, the top of the Triple Calmp reads "30". At the 6 O'clock position it reads "32". The dot on the steering tube is at the 6 O'clock position indicating it's in the "32" position. Questions: The dot at the top of the steering tube was delivered from the factory at 32. Does this mean the offset is at 32? Does this mean 32mm of offset? By rotating the the steering tube so that the dot is at the 12 O'clock position it will line up with the "30" Does this mean the front end will have 30mm of offset? By placing the dot on the lower "30" number, will it give the front end MORE stability since the trail will increase? Imma dumbass from south of Interstate 10, so please confirm: Larger offset numbers give less trail >>>less stability. Smaller offest numbers give more trail>>>more stability. If we get this nervous front end sorted in terms of the "dot" orientation, it'll benefit the rest of the 690 owners. Thanks for your input. Dirty
  6. Dirty_Sanchez

    690 enduro engine life

    Noah has his RTW trip over on ADVrider. He's currently in Japan with 85,000km's on his bike. -says he'd choose no other bike for a trip like this. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893 Here's where you go to learn about this bike, all 800 pages worth. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=722987 Here's the thread with all of the answers you seek as to the longevity of this bike: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=852742 I had two 640A's over the years, bought a '12 690E and sold the '97 640A. Haven't ever regretted the decision. My '12 only has 4.5k miles on her at this point and it's never missed a beat and makes me grin like a stupid kid everytime I take it out for a ride. Dirty
  7. Dirty_Sanchez

    Aftermarket exhaust for KTM 690R Enduro

    To the guys with the '12 Model 690 and the Akra Remap- After the remap what did the Akra map do to your milage? None of us are blessed with range with these 3.2 gallon tanks like the 640 Adventures are (selling my minty '07 640A if anyone is interested-loads of photos to share). But with 2k on the clock, the Uni double pod air filter and a Wings on the stock map the bike returned 60 mpg's yesterday! I've been getting 55 to 58 mpg's pretty consistant, but this is the first 60mpg tank average. How bad did the remap hurt your useful range before the low fuel light illuminates on average? I'm still grinning from ear to ear everytime I ride this bike. It's a real kick in the pants and the acceleration isn't in the same ballpark as the FCR equipped 640A. Dirty
  8. Dirty_Sanchez

    Volts fluxuating between 13.1 & 17.0

    It should go no higher than the mid 14V's. I suspect a faulty voltage regulator. It's going to kill the battery if you continue to ride the bike. Of course I may be mistaken.. Dirty
  9. Dirty_Sanchez

    2007 640 Adventure watch outs?

    And once you have a chance to peruse the thread listed above and purchase the bike if it's in decent shape, kick your feet up and dive into this thread....more than you care to learn about the bike: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86958 I started out with an '03 640A then found a like new low mile '07 640A and don't ever plan to sell her. The LC4 mill is like the XR engines. They work and don't break-no wonder that engine has won more Dakar races than any other. Dirty
  10. Dirty_Sanchez

    2009 ktm 250sxf

    Team- Tiny-D finally retired his CRF100 and now is on a new to us 2009 KTM 250SXF with some hours on her. Miles of smiles from a 13 Year Old, no doubt! I've just completed a valve inspection/re-shim on the upper side of factory spec but wanted to share the jetting as we took ownership of the bike. A bit of backstory-the bike doesn't seem as easy to start as my '04 YZ450. But of course with any new bike, maybe we just need more time to figure out how this new KTM wants to be started. Jetting as received with the bike having a stock can/head pipe: Main Jet:175 Pilot Jet: 42 Cold Start Jet:85 Idle Air jet: 100 Leakage Nozzle in float bowl: 50 A. Pump Diaphram: 858/3.2mm A. Pump Linkage was safety wired closed Needle: OBEKP , 4th groove from the top (middle groove) Sea Level to 500 Feet What float height should I set? I'm not sure of the brand, but the adjustable fuel screw is one of those cable actuated jobbies with the adjusting knob positioned right by the idle adjusting screw. Should I replace it with a Scotts? I'll probably go the JD Jet kit route unless the collective encourages me otherwise. Thanks Much for everyone's input! Dirty
  11. Dirty_Sanchez

    Clutch Inop. '09 KTM 250SXF

    The '09 250F bikes (at least ours) has a Brembo Master cyl and Slave. Brembo's use brake fluid as the clutch system juice. Magura systems use the Magura Blood, aka red-colored mineral oil. Magura Blood like we used doesn't play well with the seals in a Brembo system. Hard lesson learned. Stupid me didn't notice the print molded into the top cover of the master cylinder on Tiny D's new bike-and therein lies the problem. In big print it said to ONLY USE DOT 4 BRAKE FLUID. Who else finds it hard to read the instructions? Am I the only one out there? Dirty
  12. Dirty_Sanchez

    Clutch Inop. '09 KTM 250SXF

    Team- like we should have in the first place, we bled the system from the slave up to the master cylinder using mouth pressure/hose with a turkey baster pushed onto the end attached to the bleed valve on the slave. Works like a champ now. Started right up, popped her into first and the bike lurched forward just a tad, but free'd itself from most forward motion from the inherant clutch plate drag almost instantly. Don't tell anyone, but Tiny D was in tears (displayed to Mrs. D not me) that his new-to-him bike wasn't working right. But such is life for a 13 year old with a new toy itching to go ride. Dirty
  13. Dirty_Sanchez

    Clutch Inop. '09 KTM 250SXF

    It's all good in the hood. I got it licked. Dirty
  14. Dirty_Sanchez

    Clutch Inop. '09 KTM 250SXF

    Mike- We did replace the O-Ring on the slave piston. The other bellows seal that is mounted on the slave piston is fine. I can understand a bit of a drag on the rear wheel, but it won't turn at all-engine off, clutch in, in gear. The slave piston acuates the rod that goes to the other side of the engine where the clutch basket sits, I can't help but wonder if it could be something else...surely not. A clutch system is a fairly straight forward component-and to have this sort of an issue befuddles me. Dirty
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