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CRF_Larry

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About CRF_Larry

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Indiana
  1. CRF_Larry

    nervous ninny

    I found the easiest way to get the seal around the spark plug hole extension is to remove it from the top cover and put it around the extension. Then all you have to do is set the cover on and press. Of course I usually forget about that until I have managed to get the cover back between the frame and down on it. Fanagling the cover down between the frame is the hard part for me, or at least doing it without getting dirt down on top of the cam that is!
  2. CRF_Larry

    Radiator Braces

    Gotta go with UNABikers. I have tore the crap out of devol's but have yet to even bend the unabiker. For the record my bike is made of a material that is magnetic towards tree's
  3. CRF_Larry

    Cam Sprocket position relative to Cam

    Just took it apart to do a more careful look and I found that the sound is coming from the rocker arm making contact with the decompressor. Feeling good now. Gonna try it out at a new place in Ky this weekend. Wish me luck!
  4. CRF_Larry

    Cam Sprocket position relative to Cam

    OK: First off, I moved the CAM sprocket back to its orignal position. With this done bike kicks over like it always did WHEW! Bike starts first kick and seems to have great power. I have noticed a new clicking sound which is coming from the Exhaust valve CAM. When the proper clearance the CAM follower on the rocker arm has some space between it and the CAM at TDC. I'm not sure its a new sound, but its more likely just louder since I now have proper clearance between the exhaust valves and this allows for some free play.I'm surprised that thier isn't some sort of spring to force the rocker arm to follow the cam. Just curious if anyone else has noticed this when re-shimming thier bike. I'm not all that worried about it since it seems obvious to me where its coming from. I think I might just be overly cautious since I had all the trouble getting this right the first time. Thanks to all who replied and offered suggestions. This forum rocks! Larry
  5. CRF_Larry

    Cam Sprocket position relative to Cam

    OK, First off spec is .014 over exhaust clearance. Mine was WAY off. I dont think it would have been in spec before the re-shim. Bike kicked over easier than before, but since its almost 11pm, I don't think my wife would appreciate being awoken to the sound of my bike running in the garage so I'm calling it quits for the night and will check back in tomorrow. If anyone knows for sure if the gear is symetrical I would appreciate the follow up. Otherwise look for a very happy or a very sad post tomorrow. Thanks Larry
  6. CRF_Larry

    Cam Sprocket position relative to Cam

    I have been searching through old messages and I keep seeming stuff about the decompressor and my problem, so I think that could be it. I'm searching the forums now for what the settings should be. Neither of my service manuals talk about what the setting should be so I'm trying to find that info now. You wouldn't happen to know what that is for an 04 450R would you ? Something else that kept creeping up was that the mark on the camshaft sprocket wouldn't line up exactly with the arrow on the inside case. That has me a little worried as well. I keep going back and forth between the forum and my bike trying to figure out what is what, and I noticed that mine didn't line up exactly, however it was exactly 1 tooth off. I corrected it so that now it lines up at TDC per the dot on the right side engine hole. I'm beginning to regret doing this now
  7. OK, First off, call me stupid. 04' CRF 450R My bike has become hard to start by kicking it, however it will bump start fine. I have read on the boards about how this is a sign of valves tighting up, so I grabbed my manual, a copy of the CRF-250 valve check post by Heckler and started working. The 450 is a little different, but not so much that I couldn't tell what to do. Biggest problem I have is that the cam chain doesn't loosen up enough to remove the top assembly so I had to take the 2 bolts out of the Cam chain sprocket to remove it ( The service manual tells you to do this ) As expected my valves had indeed tightened up. Intakes were 0 and .001 and exhaust were at .004. Reshimmed them and they are within spec. I put everything back together and started to kick it over, and noticed that it kicked very hard, even more so then new. I started worring that I may have gotten the CAM sprocket 180 degrees off. I took it back apart, and rotated it 180 degrees but it still kicks hard. My question is how can you tell when its correct? I have the engine at TDC with the lobes to the back ( Exhaust ? ) at which point the line on the sprocket and the arrow on the inner case line up, BUT if I rotate the sprocket 180 degrees its also has a mark the lines up. Does anyone know how to positively tell which way is correct? I'm almost positive that I have it correct the first time, but its that little bit that has me worried and questioning myself. Any thoughts or helpful suggestions would be appreciated! Larry
  8. CRF_Larry

    broken scapula

    Be sure to avoid pain med's like advil. When I broke my femur, my ortho doctor was pretty adamant about me not taking advil ( as well as about me not riding again.. He says that it slows bone growth.
  9. CRF_Larry

    oe clutch springs

    Same deal on mine. I thought it odd, but not enough to replace the springs. (04' CRF450R)
  10. CRF_Larry

    need help water pump weep hole

    Mine was doing the same thing. I took it apart to look at the seal, and it had some junk in it. I cleaned the parts up and put it back together and haven't had a drop of fluid come out since. Now, the only question is how did something get in there..
  11. CRF_Larry

    Replacing a clutch basket on an 04 CRF450R

    Thanks for the help guys. Turns out I was making a mountain out of a mole hill. I appreciate your patients! The OEM clutch basket came with all the gears already installed. From a tools perspective, I could have used a "gear holder", but I was able to make the change in about 2 hours. Now that I know exactly how to do it, I think it could be done in about 45 minutes. I should say that I am absolutely amazed at how much wear the old basket had. I didn't know how bad it was until I compared a new one with my old one. Just in case someone searches TT for a how-to on this, I'm going to include some basic instructions. Use common sense when reading these directions. They are not all inclusive, so think about what your doing First, remove the radiator drain plug and drain the radiator fluid. Next, lay the bike on its left side so that you can get to the clutch. Be sure to turn the gas off, and dont do this with a full tank of gas or you will have a floor full of gas. A little gas will come out the overflow when you lean it over the first time. Just let it drain and it will stop. Next, remove the crankcase cover. You will need to remove the kickstarter and the rear brake lever first.Be care to not tear the gasket, or you will need to order a new one. You should have recieved a new primary gear. if not, skip this step. you need to loosen the bolt on the primary gear. This is torqued down to ~110Nm. This is where the gear holder comes in. Place the gear holder between the primary gear and its mate on the back of the clutch basket. The gear holder should be placed on top between the gears. Once you brake it free you can stop. Next, remove the springs and the pressure plate. Standard technique of alternating sides, a little at a time apply. Remove the pressure plate. Take off the needle bearing and washer, and the lifter and set them aside. There is an outer washer that ususally sticks to the inside the pressure plate. Set it aside with the needle bearing. Take all the plates and discs off. You should replace these when replacing a clutch, at least replace the discs. next, you need to bend down the tabs on the locking washer and remove the lock nut, and the two washers. At this point, you can remove the inner basket. Under the inner basket is another thrust washer. Remove it , and then remove the outer basket. Now, finish taking out the bolt on the primary if your replacing it. Make care note of the marking on the primary so you can install the new one the same way. Go ahead and install the new primary and hand tighten the bolt. At this point, I would get a bowl of tranny oil and start soaking the discs. Reinstall the new outer basket, and the thrust washer. Put the inner basket back in, and install the thrust washer, locking washer and lock bolt. At this point you can also reinstall the lifter, and needle bearing and the washer that sometimes (usually) sticks to the pressure plate. Next, begin installing your discs and plates. They should have soaked for a few minutes, so if your really fast, go get yourself something from the kitchen and wait. Next, install the pressure plate and springs. Alternate from opposite sides tighting them down so you dont get the plate torqued at an angle. Time to use that gear holder again. This time place it between the primary and its mate on the basket on the bottom. Tighten this down to ~110Nm. At this point, with the crank case still off, I drain the oil. No point of putting old oil to a new clutch. I just stand the bike back up over an oil pain an let it drain. Once this is done, you can install the crank case , tighten the bolts down, and reinstall the rear brake and kickstarter. Make sure that the radiator hose is back on and tight, and fill it up with fluid. Fill the tranny up with oil and wake your neighbors.
  12. CRF_Larry

    Replacing a clutch basket on an 04 CRF450R

    Yep, that solves it. Good news is that it came in today so I believe the wife is heading to pick up the part from fed-ex now.
  13. CRF_Larry

    Replacing a clutch basket on an 04 CRF450R

    Does anyone have a diagram of the clutch telling you what gear is what? I guess I have been confusing the primary with the kickstarter gear ( the large gear on the back is the kickstarter gear ? ) Im just not able to picture the clutch basket and I'm at work so I can't run out and take it apart just right now, althought that would be nice.
  14. CRF_Larry

    Replacing a clutch basket on an 04 CRF450R

    You do have to remove the case cover. Having taken it on/off a bunch in the last few weeks, I can get down to the clutch in a matter of a few minutes.
  15. CRF_Larry

    Replacing a clutch basket on an 04 CRF450R

    OK, I'm officially lost. What inner gear are you talking about ? Sorry to be a pest but I can't get my head around which gears are where. I only remember the primary gear, or what I think is the primary gear. I'm talking about the large gear that is connected to the back side of the clutch basket. From what I recall it is connected to the spline in the center of the basket as well. Guess I need to pull it all apart again.
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