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billygildark5007

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About billygildark5007

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    California

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    billygildark825

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  1. Thanks just learned about the slave oring leaking internally.
  2. Sorry if this question is already covered but did a quick search and didn’t see. Never had a issue bleeding brakes. 2003 ktm 525mxc. Recently purchased, newbie to ktm, rebuilt leaking resi on bars and now matter how many times I bleed/reverse bleed, zip tie trick overnight I cannot remove all the air at the resivoir. But clutch works/feels great after 4 running hours and doesn’t have external leaks. Where’s the air coming from? Can it leak internally on what I guess is the “slave cylinder”? Thanks Billy
  3. Please don’t lapp the valves on your bike, unless your sure they’re SS.
  4. Anyone else find it strange all valves had a 1.95 shim?
  5. Under normal conditions valve clearance should tighten not loosen... It may be carbon buildup or damaged valve or seat holding valve open. It may be the top of the valve stem starting to mushroom out. It may be the previous owner had tried and failed to adjust correctly. Pull the cams and buckets and measure your shim sizes and inspect the top of the valve stem.
  6. There should be post it notes when you look at the start of the yz400/426/450 forum with all that info. There are many different maps for rider preferences or conditions along with the “pro race” maps and users here created.
  7. Actually that’s backwards sir. To tame it down (less torque,slower acceleration) you want a -1 rear sprocket or more. The bike came with 13/48. May want to check what sprockets are on there now.
  8. The kit is fairly straight forward to install. I did forget I had to file the back cases as well. Sorry it’s been a while...
  9. If your midpipe looks like this it’s more than likely a full system. If it’s just a spiral and the header has a expansion chamber on one side it’s oem. IMO the drd relocation kit was a noticeable improvement in handling, even better with the radiator lowering kit. And you file the frame mounts and install new collars on the motor. Still on the fence about whether the lowering link really benefits...
  10. I believe their wheel sets are rebranded warp 9s.
  11. Another thing that would cause clearance to increase is the top of the valve stem mushrooming
  12. You may leak either coolant or oil from the water pump weep hole. There are two seals on the water pump shaft. The inner keeps the oil in and the outer keeps the coolant in. . (Pic stolen from here) If it's oil (looks to be) it's likely the bearing on the water pump shaft has failed causing the seal to fail. The open hose on the other side of motor is the crankcase breather and it does expel oil. It's possible the grayish sludge your seeming is a mixture of water (condensation) and oil. Especially if the bike sat for a while.
  13. The ebc holding tool is a much better way in my opinion. I've used the vise grip style before and have had it slip off damaging the inner boss. I've also found that on some bikes the vise grip style doesn't fit in the grooves on the inner boss.
  14. . I thought this would be bs but I bought 2 and put them in my attic. It seems to actually work as I no longer hear them at night and haven't had on in a trap for 3 weeks now. I'm not sure how well it will work for deaf rodents...
  15. Hopefully you didn't missaline a shift fork in the drum, hopefully you have a Manuel and took pics on disassembly and it's something to do with the shift paw, shaft, bracket or assembly which you can access by removing the right side case and possibly get away with reusing that gasket. If not I'm afraid you have to tear it apart again and start to "bench test" shifting before final assembly.
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