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About BugJuice

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    Skateboards / Snowboards / Motorcycles
  1. Do you have an pics? I want to see your set up.
  2. OP's tire/wheel set up looks really nice.
  3. To test short to ground. Do I touch each of the 3 yellow wires with one probe and the other probe to the frame? Also does it matter which probe torches the wire? Positive or negative? Also when checking for continuity. I'm supposed to test it in ohms instead of continuity mode? (Mode that beeps)
  4. So I was riding my DRZ home from work, just filled up gas and on my way. Then all of a sudden it started to chug. (Almost similar to running out of fuel). I chopped the throttle and it returned to normal. I noticed my speedometer went dim. I gave it some gas and it started to chug again. I feathered the throttle and noticed if I gave it approximately more that 45% throttle it would chug. So I shifted up a gear and continued in a higher gear at low RPMs. I continued as far as I could until it would chug then I would downshift and continue until i got into first gear and it died and wouldn't go anymore. The only thing on at this point was a very dim headlight. Everything else was dead. No tail light, no speedo, and no turn signals. I tried to bump start it. It worked for a bit and then died again. Had my bike trucked home, unloaded the bike and it fired right up. Put it on a trickle charger over night. Road it for a few days fine and then boom. The same thing happened. I'm pretty sure that it has to be an issue with my charging system and I'm running my bike 100% off of battery power. I went and read charging system diagnosis in the FAQs and ordered up a multimeter. I attempted last night to find out where my issue is coming from. I'm pretty sure its my stator but before I jump to conclusions and order up expensive parts I wanted to see If my procedure was done right because to be honest that guide was pretty hard for me to follow as I've never tinkered with electronics at all before. So the first thing I went to test was my battery. I set my multimeter to DC function under the 20 setting. Battery by its self with the bike off = 13V Battery with lights on = 12.63V and the longer the lights were on it would go down. I let it go down to 12.58V and I started my bike up. Battery with bike on = 12.58V Battery with bike revving. (I guessed where 3k RPM is) = 12.58V and it wouldn't go up at all. Things to note is that battery is only a couple of months old. My bike does not sit. I ride it everyday. (This morning it read 13.38V since i left it on the trickle over night) Now I went to test the stator. This is the part I'm not really sure I'f I did it correctly or not. So what I did was unplug the yellow 3 wire plug from the Regulator/Rectifier and then set my multimeter to continuity mode. I put the positive probe on each of the yellow wires and touched the negative probe on the frame. There was no beeping on all 3 test. Then I went and touched Y1 to Y2, Y2, to Y3, and then Y3 to Y1. I had a beep with all 3 of those test. After that I set my multimeter to ohms to measure resistance. I put the dial on 200 ohms and touched the probes at Y1 to Y2, Y2, to Y3, and then Y3 to Y1. My multimeter showed about 1.2 ohms on all three readings. One displayed 1.4 after I left it there longer. *Picture attachment is displaying this* (Could have had a better connection with the probe). This is the main part I was not sure about. I was not sure if I have the meter set to the correct setting. My meter for some reason always displays 1 unless it touches wires in this ohms setting. If i moved my meter to something like 20k it would show "0"s. I'm pretty sure that means 20,000 ohms though. After resistance I set my meter to 200 under AC to check my stators Voltage. I checked the Y1 to Y2, Y2 to Y3, Y3 to Y1 with the bike on. All of those 3 test displayed about 30v AC at idle and would quickly jump to 65-70v with some revving. The last thing I tested was the R/R, Rectifier and Regulator. I removed the R/R from the bike. Turned my meter to the diode function. I stuck the positive probe into the positive output and then proceeded to touch all 3 stator inputs with the other probe. I got no readings on all 3. Then I reversed the bias and got a reading on all 3 of them of about .622 I believe. Then I checked the negative diode board. Stuck the negative probe into the negative output and proceeded to test all 3 stator inputs. Got nothing. Reversed the bias and checked and got all 3 readings of about .622 Looked something like this. Test 1: 0 , 0 , 0 Test 2: 622, 622, 622 Test 3: 0 , 0 , 0 Test 4: 622, 622, 622 Sorry for the novel I just typed..
  5. Went to Dave a couple of weekends ago. He re-welded my muffler, repacked it, polished it up, and tightened where the mid pipe and muffler meet up. Sounded much better for about a week and is starting to sound like usual again. I also have tire rub on my muffler again from stoppies/jumps. The tire hitting the muffler could be the reason. My muffler did need a reapcking Dave said though. I shimmed out my muffler and I'm still getting rub. My subframe might be tweaked from a old get off. I also run a 150 rear tire.
  6. I have not tried repacking it yet. Dave @ MRD says my exhaust is broken at the core. I'm going to have it welded up and then repacked and then post my results.
  7. When you say clicks out. Is that how many turns back in from fully hard?
  8. I don't think hours can equal to miles because that all depends on how fast you are going when riding. He said I should replace the packing every few months. He also knows i ride my bike every day though.
  9. Practicing poping the bike up and then hit the back break, don't even ride the wheelie out. Make that become second nature. Do that over and over.
  10. Would you happen to remember your old jetting settings by a chance? lol! Well I think you should definitely repack it! If you don't it will potentially damage the core in the muffler. That's what Dave over at MRD has told me at least after exchanging a few emails with him. That's the state of mine currently. My muffler can move around, I thought it was from wheel rub, but he says If you don't repack the muffler like suggested at 50 hard riding hours the muffler gets to too hot and damages the core. This same issue of having a loose muffler has also happened to two of my buddies MRD systems as well, that I just found out when inquiring about it. Their MRDs don't make loud decel like mine though, even with a damaged muffler and I'm almost certain mine made the loud decel noise even when the muffler was new as I recall. So I don't think they are related. Edit: Adding in clip of loose exhaust muffler. Clip Link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/swlfq9k0oj21deo/File%20Sep%2003%2C%2012%2048%2044%20PM.mov?dl=0
  11. My buddy has a MRD and also tells me its not supposed to sound like such. He also has a FCR like you though...but I still don't think it should like that. Did you ever have the MRD on with the stock carb?
  12. I'll try removing the attachment if I can. Not sure if the gauge kit will let me. That's what I was doing before, kicking till it wouldn't go no further. It wouldn't get past 150 psi. Just to clarify.. You have to do the compression test when the motor is warm and have idled for about 3 minutes right?
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