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About dmthayer

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  1. dmthayer

    Footpegs for single track?

    The 5mm lower (less than 1/4") of the 5xc won't make much difference for what you're going to catch your boots on on the trail, but I think it does make a nice improvement in the peg-seat-bars relationship and is a worthwhile mod even if you're not a tall guy (I'm 5'10, 30" inseam, and still like the lower pegs alot). For me, if the pegs were so high as to never catch a boot on the trail, they would be in a terribly awkward position to actually ride the bike.
  2. dmthayer

    94 KTM 620

    I had a white 94/95 620 exc a couple years ago; bought it on craiglist for $1100, traded it for a 99 yz250 and $300 1.5 years later. It was a fun bike to ride. Tons of torque from the moment it came off idle; the trick to riding it fast was to just keep shifting to the next gear (it always felt like you were shifting too early when you did it right, but it always pulled hard in that next gear) My biggest complaints about the bike were: 1) stupid DelOrto carb combined with awkward left-side kicker meant if you tipped over, you were going to be kicking for several minutes to get it to fire back up and you were going to be exhausted by the time you got it running again. Occasionally it would backfire and blow the carb off the intake. 2) the thing was super top-heavy; all the weight was way up high on the chassis which made a 300+ lbs bike feel like 350lbs. 3) The early 620's were not fully counterbalanced (no counterbalance shaft like the later 625's and 640's) and the thing was like a paint shaker at idle. A ride down the highway could put my hands to sleep in minutes from how badly the bars would vibrate. I couldn't keep a functioning taillight/brake light on the bike because it always shook the filaments out of the bulbs; even an led taillight only lasted a few months. After owning that 620; I still want a 625sxc for a second/dualsport bike which has problem #1 and #3 solved (somewhat) from the factory. problem #2 just comes with the territory; the faster you ride, the less you notice it.
  3. dmthayer

    Plated KTM registration comment

    It was dual registered by the previous owner (it had both ORV tags and a street plate when my brother bought it many years ago), my brother has only maintained the street registration and has never renewed the ORV tags himself up to this point because he figured why pay for a redundant registration if he could ride anywhere with just the plate.
  4. dmthayer

    Plated KTM registration comment

    That was my advice to him too. I think there is a procedure to remove inaccurate comments from a registration as I seem to remember having a truck with a comment about ownership status unconfirmed on the registration that was untrue (applied to the previous owner at some point in time because he bought it without a title, but I later obtained a valid title for the truck), and I had to fill out a form to have it removed the next time I renewed. Hopefully it is that simple and just a mistake on the part of a supermarket licensing agent But after having the plate on my 94 LC4 revoked and then given back to me when they admitted the mistake, I get nervous about the actual intentions/actions of the DOL when something like this happens. Like I said above, in this case, the loss of the plate is not a deal breaker since he really doesn't ride street with it anyway, but I thought I would see if this is more than an isolated mistake.
  5. dmthayer

    Plated KTM registration comment

    I agree he should have looked/complained before he left the DOL; but nothing else triggered to alert him that it might even be a problem. He's had the bike for many years always been able to renew the street license without issues (it had the plate on it when he bought it used), and this time was no different (except for the comment on the registration). Its not like they didn't sell him the renewal and give him the tabs; they didn't force him to get ORV tabs instead. They just added this comment to the registration paperwork that otherwise gives him a perfectly street-legal machine. I'm mostly wondering if it will be a problem if he's ever pulled over on the street with it with the plate they gave him renewed tabs for? If he loses the plate he will probably just get ORV tags as he doesn't actually ride on the street other than the occasional trail connection on a back road for a short distance. It reads like a plate revokation to me too, but they gave him new tabs for the plate and the current license plate number is listed at the top of the registration (Its not like they gave him new ORV tabs instead of renewing the plate), so I mostly want to know how much weight that comment carries; does it actually invalidate the plate/tabs he paid for and received? That part just doesn't make sense to me; how can the state issue a street registration and in the same act say that vehicle is not eligible for one.
  6. Anyone else had this happen? My brother walks into the DOL agency, renews the tabs for his KTM (04 200exc that has been plated since way before the hb5800 inspection process existed, never got the plate revokation letters, never had any issues renewing the tabs). Walks out with new registration and tabs, no problems, no questions. Gets home and notices that the new registration has a new comment that says "PL-I- NOT ELIGIBLE FOR ROAD USE - COLOR ORANGE" The registration has the current street plate number on it and they didn't refuse to sell him the renewed tabs, but the comment is new (and doesn't make much sense to me honestly). How can the state take money for and issue a street legal registration for a vehicle they at the same time deem ineligible for said use? Will my brother have any issues if he rides the bike on the street (assuming all mandated equipment like lights horns and mirrors are on the bike and work)?
  7. dmthayer

    Whatcom/skagit Powdercoating?

    http://www.advancedpowdercoatingnw.com/contact.html Not sure what quentin's schedule looks like right now, but I've had him powdercoat all sorts of things for me over the years and I highly reccomend him. Always great work, fair prices. For small parts, he can usually do things quicker/cheaper if you go with a color he is doing a batch of for someone else. Being picky about the exact color usually means longer lead times and more $
  8. dmthayer

    Spring Rate Advice

    Make sure the weight you enter for racetech's calculator is without gear, but the weight you enter for MX-tech's is with gear on. Moto-pro also has a spring calculator (also use weight with gear on). No spring rate calculator is perfect; but they will usually get you close (within a range of values that are workable). My advice is to look at all 3 of the above mentioned calculators and pick a front and rear rate that is the average of their individual reccomendations. In my experience with a few bikes, Racetech always seemed to reccomend springs that were at least 1 rate too stiff, especially for the fork springs. The Moto-pro calculator seemed closer, but if it was off, it was usually on the soft side. Usually the MX-tech calculator didn't have a lot of info for the old/cheap bikes I owned. I'm not a fast rider or a suspension expert by any means, but I'm very sensitive (my brother and riding partner calls it "too picky") to the way the suspension is setup and I know how I like it and/or don't like it to feel. Once you have what you think are the right set of springs, check your sag numbers, set your sag correctly, if the correct rider sag results in the incorrect free sag, it wasn't the right spring. If its not perfect but its close, you can probably still make fine adjustments to rear preload/sag and front fork height in the clamps to get it to feel pretty good. If you have to buy a couple different spring rates, its not the end of the world, you'll learn what the changes in spring rate do to the handling of the bike by getting the chance to try them out, and you can always resell them on ebay to recoup some of the loss for the ones that don't work for you. Also, having more than one rate of fork springs around means you can mix and match to get a variety of different front spring rates.
  9. dmthayer

    Odd midvalve stack 96 yz250 forks

    This is what I found in these 96 yz250 forks: Mid (comp): 25.15 25.15 25.15 25.15 14.15 14.15 25.4 .52mm float Reb: 23.15 23.15 13.15 20.15 17.15 14.15 11.3 11.3 Base: 24.15 24.15 24.15 22.15 20.15 18.15 16.15 14.15 11.3 18.5 18.5 all the peens were still there on the mid and base and the springs appear to be stock yamaha (unmarked), so I'm assuming maybe this is all stock. Any suggestions which way to go with these stacks for a 200 lbs enduro/trail rider? What about that midvalve stack, any ideas why they would build it like that without any real taper to it?
  10. I opened up a pair of 96 yz250 forks that I picked up on ebay and found what seems like an odd choice for the mid valve compression stack. It is 4 face shims (all the same dia) and a pair of 14mm OD clamp shims. There is no supporting taper between the faceshims and the clamps. Float is set at approximately .52 mm (as best I can measure it) Is this the stock configuration? The factory peens were still in place and I had to file the threads a bit to get the pistons off the damper rod for inspection. Why would someone build a stack like this? Any suggestions for improving it? The face shims nearest the piston on each one were somewhat cupped. I don't know anything about how these forks were used previosly, but I'd like to put them back together with a mid set up that won't immediately distort the new shims I install. Does anyone have the stock 96 or 97 yz 250 settings/stacks? I can post the exact measurements of each shim stack I found in these forks when I get home. Any suggestions for setting these forks up for a slow to intermediate enduro rider? I weigh 200 lbs in street clothes, mostly ride woods with lots of rocks and roots, but also make occasional trips to the desert, mostly recreational trail riding, sometimes ride timekeeper enduros and harescrambles, no mx. I'm planning on using some .45 kg/mm fork springs that I already have for a starting point on the spring rate, I also have some .42's and .43's sitting in the garage. Racetechs calculator reccomends something like 47's for my weight, but that seems a bit extreme to me. Any suggestions/insight are greatly appreciated, thanks
  11. dmthayer

    Yz 250....Best power band foor the woods?

    Yep, that's the best part of a YZ for me. They are cheap initially. They are good stock. They are very easy to work on and setup to a person's personal liking and can be easily modified in a wide variety of ways. They have only had minor changes for many years, and yamaha is really good with maximizing part interchangability between models and years, so there are lots of used parts out there to swap around for reletively low cost. That all means you get the maximum value for the dollars spent; I'm all about that. I also prefer a steel frame, so I like the older yz's, but I would like to get my hands on some later model suspension pieces for my 99. I think some reworked 06+ forks would make this thing dang near perfect for the PacNW woods trails I ride.
  12. dmthayer

    Yz 250....Best power band foor the woods?

    Depends on how you define "best" The YZ power delivery is broad and smooth FOR A 2t MX BIKE, without giving up any significant overall power, so if that is all you are comparing it to, the answer is a resounding yes! But, not everyone rides or wants to ride a 2stroke mxer in the woods, and different people do vastly different types of "woods riding". Are you plodding along at a mild trail ride pace or are you trying to win a race? For pure recreational low-speed trail cruising in the woods, I'd say my old DR350 had a perfect powerband, it was super-tractable, and admittedly severly underpowered (and overweight as well), but I could cruise around the easy trails with my buddies all day long and never break a sweat and all I had to do to get over a rock or root in my way was ease up to it and twist the throttle a little. I'm still no top racer, but my appetite for speed and challenging trail obstacles has increased, and I'm far quicker through the techy tight woods trails aboard my YZ than I have been on any other bike (including my brother's '04 KTM 200exc, which is an excellent woods bike in its own regard). The YZ is light, the handling is point and shoot as it goes exactly where I tell it to, and the powerband is just broad and smooth enough for me while still having lots of teeth to really light things up if I want. I still think I might like a little added flywheel mass, but the more I ride the bike and get used to it the less I think it is "needed". As an overall package, I think a modded YZ that has the suspension dialed in is about as good a woods racer as any bike you'll find.
  13. dmthayer

    Aluminum Frame vs. Steel Frame

    Yes, you are correct, steel less than a certain thickness benefits very little from heat treatment (I was always told less than .120" wall tubing, it was mostly pointless). I beleive this is the same as I wrote above; what is disinformation here? Welded aluminum does benefit greatly from heat treating. If you weld say 6061 T-6, it is no longer T-6 after welding. You can gain back much of the lost strength though by heat-treating (although the method is not the same as steel; you don't heat and then rapidly quench aluminum to make it stronger; it doesn't work that way). The word "require" in your statement is the misnomer there. Yes you can weld aluminum and not "require" heat-treatment, but you can heat treat it and gain a significant amount of strength back that was lost during welding. I don't see the point of the extra cost and effort to make an aluminum frame if you aren't going to at least take advantage of the material properties improvement that is available from heat-treating it. Do you find any of this statement to be misinformation? If so, what?
  14. Holy Yama-zuki bumblebee!! That would be awsome if I didn't hate the color yellow so much. Very clean bling bike, but yeah the yellow chain and yellow spoke wraps are too much for me; sometimes less is more. I hope you didn't buy the Ohlins shock just for the gold ano, haha!
  15. dmthayer

    YZ250 2000 or 2002 Which one to Buy???? Hurry

    realistically they are almost the same bike. The 03 has a little better shape to the fuel tank/seat for most people. I like the look of the side panels for the 01 much better though. Performance is going to be almost identical. Go with the one that is the best value when you consider condition and re-sale value; you can't go too wrong with either one at the right price.