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JSev87

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About JSev87

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  1. JSev87

    Rocky mountain

    You should look at slavensracing.com they just about specialize in KTM and Husky parts. Their prices are right on par with Rocky Mountain sometimes a touch higher and some times lower, but always very close. Their shipping times to me have been about 2 days up in WY. They Ship out of Colorado and are great to deal with.
  2. JSev87

    KTM OEM exhaust VS Aftermarket?

    yup, all KTM/Husky two strokes are imported as "closed course" bike and will not have an Spark arrestor. I would venture to say that is probably accurate of all two stroke bikes for the last decade and a half.
  3. JSev87

    KTM OEM exhaust VS Aftermarket?

    I have ran the Gnarly, Fatty, Pro Circuit platinum and stock Pipes on KTM and recently husky 300’s. I think they are all good. It really boils down to application and preferences. I think the stock pipe is a good all around pipe but is a little on the fragile side. I like the Gnarly for tight woods and more technical single track. The Gnarly is really good for playing in the low to mid RPM range.The Fatty and the Procircuit are both pretty comparable but I like them for more open and faster events where you are riding on the pipe more.
  4. JSev87

    Define “loading up” in no nonsense terms

    on the topic of sponge and oil. Its not so black and white. The bike manufacturer will recomend a specific ratio and if you look they recommend that ratio with a specific oil. The ratio the bike requires is not as critical as what the oil you choose can be mixed at. also thinking about how the bike runs helps a little too. Heres is two examples. Lets take my 2012 KTM 300XC for an example. I choose to run Amsoil Saber at 80:1. this is the rich side of what the oil optimally designed for and when jetted correctly I don't get enough spooge(excess oil) to come out the exhaust pipe. I Race enduro's and Hare Scrambles. I have 2 300's that I have ran amsoil saber in both of them through a top end(at about 100-110hrs) each and the pistons and cylinders look great and the power valves were cleaner than other oils I have run. I have no hesitation running that lean of a mix in that specific oil only. If I ran, say Amsoil dominator I would run a mixture within its range probably close to the manufactures recommendation. Example 2. I used to have a 2005 KDX200 which I also raced (if I could have justified keeping it to the wife I would have loved that bike). I rode that bike through 3 top ends the first I ran various oils all of good quality and the bike ran great and it like to be ridden on the pipe(high end of the RPM range). If I rode the lower RPM's for an extended time it would drool spoke quite badly. at the first top end the piston and the cylinder were as you'd expect worn but not thrashed. I moved to Saber for the second 100hrs on recommendation and I was very hesitant to run the 80:1 so I ran 60:1 it still liked to be ridden on the pipe and spooged in the lower RPM's, but not as bad I ran that for that whole top end. When I did the next top end it was a noticeable difference in the carbon deposits for the better. I stuck with that oil mixture until I sold it. I could have gone to the 80:1, but I rode that bike so heavy in the upper RPM range I decided drool in the Lower RPMs didn't really matter and played it safe. In retro spec the Dominator would probably have been a better fit because of the way the bike was set up and how I rode it. Saber is a great oil especially for trail and XC type riding on the bigger two strokes like 250/300 where you ride a greater range of the RPM. For the smaller bore two strokes where you have to ride them on the pipe then something like the dominator is probably better suited. As far as Lecterns I recommend the less you mess with it the better off you are. I run them on both my KTM 300;s and my TX300 and I find its best to put it on go out and warm the bike up then adjust the idle and then stop touching it. I have put Lecterns on 4 bikes now and the only one I ever had any issue with is the one I was messing with. I set it back to how they sent it to me and haven't had any issues. Well, thats my two cents and a book haha
  5. JSev87

    Recommend me a boot

    Hands down my favorite boot is the SG-10. I'm sure the SG-12 is nicer but as someone who races enduro and hare scrambles they work great for me. They are very comfortable and the hinged ankle gives the support I need. ride 2-3 times a week and have 3 seasons on them. they might need to be resoled this fall, but of the amount of time I put on them I am more than happy.
  6. JSev87

    Bleeding Forks

    The right arrow. make sure your bike is on a stand first. If you ride in roughly the same elevation and temperatures you can do it once and leave it. They make speed bleeders so you can bleed it quickly on a stand. I have them because I race the in the Rocky Mountain Enduro Circuit and each race the elevation is so different and I want my suspension to behave the same at each event. I put it on the stand bleed them then leave it alone till I go back home. with that said, its not critical. I raced 2 seasons before I started messing with it without noticing anything. Once I started learning more about suspension settings and how to set my bike up for me and the conditions I ride, I started to notice smaller changes.
  7. If we’re comparing exact riding ability it will depend on terrain and what you comfortable with. Being fast is 80% rider and 20% bike. You should ride whatever is most enjoyable for you to ride and learn how to ride it well. There are some guys out there like Dick Burlson who are in their 60’s and can ride a husky 150 in single track faster than most guys in their 20’s on a 450 or 300. A faster Bike doesn’t make up for lack of ability
  8. JSev87

    Anyone Riding a Stock 2018 TX300

    I have been riding on KTM 300’s since 2012 and have been running Lectron carbs the last few years and I would have to disagree. I ran one on my ‘13 300XC-w but not on my ‘12 300xc for comparison purposes and it’s an improvement, but not drastic like some people claim. That is not true with the new 300 motor they came out in 2017. The lectron carb for these new gen of motors is a high velocity version that does make a significant difference. I loved my 300’s before my lectron carbs but hated jetting 2-3 times a month with the racing I was doing.thats why I tried one and now I do it on all my 300 builds. The word of advise I give is not to mess it. They send them to you ready to go. So just put it on and ride it once it’s fully warmed up then adjust the idle and leave it alone.
  9. JSev87

    New 300 xc-w... Now what

    I haven’t replaced the contact part of the brake pedal, but there lots of them out there. Rocky Mountain ATV/MC’s Tusk line has some, Mojosports. The Pedal lever is the same on the ‘17 as it is the ‘18 so if they don’t have it listed as a fit for the ‘18 it still will.
  10. JSev87

    New 300 xc-w... Now what

    I got a clutch case guard on my ‘12 300XC from SlavensRacing.com to protect it from the brake pedal and it was work it. I don’t have one on my ‘13 XC-W since it has more clearance. No scratching on the ‘13, but was worth every penny on the ‘12
  11. JSev87

    New 300 xc-w... Now what

    I love the 300's they are a lot of fun bone stock. With that said, I would make your first priority to protect it. I is critical that you get a skid plate( I like the enduro engineering one personally) The starter is on the bottom of the motor and you really don't want to damage it because it is expensive and you have to take your motor out of the bike to get to it, Pipe protector, shark fin. If you are interested in making a good bike better I would start with a Lectron Carburetor your bike will run better, more efficient and you won't have to jet it ever again. I would also recomend modifying the air box. Jeff Slavens of Slavens Racing has a great video on You tube to show you how. It makes a noticeable difference especially when combined with a Lectron Carb. I also recommend the FMF Gnarly pipe (its beefier than stock and is great for trail riding and XC racing). Some other suggestions that I haven't run on the new 300 ('17-'18) motor but really liked on the previous iteration of the motor was all the same as above but with the S3 Slavens Mule cylinder head, the SX CDI box and the Pro Circuit Platinum pipe. It makes it a bit more aggressive.
  12. JSev87

    Carburetor/ 2 stroke maintenance?

    If you are done riding for the day turn the petcock off, when you run it on the ON position it will stop feeding fuel once it gets below a certain point. On Reserve it will flow until you are out. As far as fuel goes. It breaks down relatively fast. I wouldn't recommend keeping more than a two week supply in your garage. After a month the performance of the fuel drops in a big way and after that it's a crap shoot on whether or not it will gum up your carb. I race a KTM 300XC and have several other two strokes. I highly recommend Amsoil Saber. It also has a fuel stabilizer additive in it. And you can run a little leaner mixture without comprise on lubricity.
  13. I have Tubliss and Race enduro's and hair scrambles. I love it! My Dad and I have been running them for 2-1/2 seasons and I ride 1-2 times a week. I think it makes changing tire just a little easier. The Tubliss make running low Psi less risky. I use desert tires for Thier heavier side walls so I can run at zero PSI and works like a champ. My Dad runs them as well. We raced the Chimney Rock Enduro I'm Utah and he tore an inch wide section of the side wall in a fast and rocky section and it hardly caused him to slow down. His time wasn't that far off from mine. The Tubliss kept the tire on the bead through the Whole section. I highly recommend them.
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