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About ClutchinChrisG

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  1. They are just a pain to get started manually. You can get the flow started in a pinch by following this process: Crack bleeder, pull lever, close bleeder, release lever, repeat. But I would expect at least 15 mins if you're fast at this. Now if you can pick up or borrow a vacuum bleeder you'll be done in a couple minutes.
  2. Whooooo! My drz runs again! And this time, for the first time ever, with the CE delete done normally! I used to have the CE ports capped but now it runs with them bridged like they are supposed to be! I picked up some JB Kwik weld to use as epoxy. Unfortunately it has literally JUST enough working time for this job. It was pretty scary starting to tack up as I spread the last bit down with a toothpick. On the plus side didn't have to wait for it to dry! I used gasgacinch to secure the gaskets during assembly. That was a great idea and Amazon got that to my door in two days. Well I got it slapped back together today and it fired up third kick. Then took it off choke and it had a bit of a hanging idle so I loosened the fuel screw and for the first time ever it did something and ran just right down low. I took it for a little ride and after warming up I was able to screw it back in a little. So pleased my bike is a runner again! I think the last of my random no start problems are finally over!
  3. You have a BSR carb on an E model? IMO your filter doesn't really matter.
  4. Now I see that you have a vacuum controlled petcock. In one of the upper pictures it appeared to me you had a piece of hose with a screw in it to cap off the vacuum port on the intake manifold. What you did on the carb wasn't what I was talking about. What you did will richen the pilot circuit. It can be a neat way to get control of the pilot circuit if you're having midbody gasket issues. But on a normal carb with the CE delete you just keep these two ports bridged with a piece of hose. Sorry bring it back to the way it was I'm dumb lol. My E model has a normal petcock not the vacuum petcock and I saw the FCR on your bike without a coast enrichener. I assumed you had done the CE delete but capped the vacuum port on the manifold with a piece of hose with a screw in it. I did this at first when I did the coast enrichener delete and it just leaked air. My bad for the bad advice.
  5. While you're at it get a vacuum cap to replace that hose with a screw in it on your intake. It sucks when that falls out while you're riding, ask me how I know.
  6. Would like to update that did finally get back to me. Seems like a cool dude, but prefers the phone over email. He was polite and said he'd refund my carb since he hasn't shipped it yet. Super cool. Can't speak for his quality of work but I would imagine any level headed guy can figure out how to clean a carb and put it back together. He certainly is. Anybody know if I can edit previous posts? I'd like to update my first post so it doesn't tell everyone to avoid him.
  7. I think I'll try the JB weld out as I have some on hand. What did you use to hold the gasket in place during reassembly? Oring lube or some kind of gasket sealer? I have oring lube on hand as well.
  8. Lol, I think it's a matter of if it's structural or not. I want to use RTV so I don't have to worry bout it being truly permanently assembled... But then again the stuff I spent an hour scraping off the carb halves looked a lot like JB weld. I have used it a few times. I work in a computer repair place and it's useful for old unibody macbook pro's which are basically held together with superglue, lol garbage. Change that stuff out for JB weld. If all it needs to do is seal there is easier to work with stuff out there than JB weld. I think I'll try a more removable sealant and if it doesn't work I can always go to JB-weld later.
  9. Do you think it's necessary to epoxy it back together or is any kind of fuel-proof sealant ok? Literally looks like it's held together with JB-weld... Not too familiar with the strength of the stuff though, don't want to assemble it more permanently.
  10. I've decided to attempt the mid-body gasket replacement on my vintage 2000 slant FCR carb, stock on the DRZ 400 E. If you are like me you have scoured the forums for info on doing this service but found maybe 2 or 3 pictures of a taken apart FCR, dead end threads, and tons of negativity. BUT! Is it really that difficult of a repair to perform correctly? Well I have had my carb on and off at least a dozen times, trying different jets, cleaning, etc. For the last 3 years I've been getting by with the coast enrichener circuit bypassed to at least get enough fuel in the idle circuit to run ok. But it just wasn't working anymore. I could clean the carb out and get it to run for a little while, but after sitting it wouldn't start again. I tried ordering a refurb FCR-MX over a week ago and the guy has gone MIA and nothing shipped. I ordered from I would advise avoiding... But will update if I hear back and he has a decent reason for the delay. Anyways, it made me seriously look into the "unserviceable" midbody gasket. I mean, you can buy the gasket here: So today I ripped the carb apart again, but this time to the very last fastener, separating the carb bodies. I even found my smoking gun, in the one picture with the hoop thingy removed you can see the gasket has expanded and spilled into a passageway. This passageway leads directly to the pilot jet, blocking it's flow. Though as you can see every rubber piece inside is completely trashed. Which makes sense, do you really expect these gaskets to last 20 years? Or in this case 18? If you have taken apart your FCR and went, wow that fuel bowl gasket is recked yo! I need a new one! Well you can bet your mid-body gasket looks the same. Really I see no reason I couldn't get this sealed back up with a new gasket and some fuel-proof RTV to replace the epoxy seal around the edge. Why wouldn't it work? Just doesn't make sense to me all the negativity you find toward this repair.... But I haven't finished yet so who knows if it will actually work on the bike. But I think it'll run like new when I'm done. I hope it works out for me and I can inspire some others who would otherwise be forced to buy an 800 dollar carb to do this repair instead. Wish me luck!
  11. The CE on the E model does have one vacuum line. I stole a pic off google images.... There are three lines, typically the two nipples on the carb are joined to complete the CE removal. The other line you see going off into nowhere connects to a vacuum port on the intake manifold, be sure to put a cap on this as the bike won't run without the vacuum port capped, obviously. It works by keeping those two nipples on the carb bridged during normal operation, but closes the bridge and richens the idle circuit under high vacuum. Like on hard engine brake. This lets the manufacturer run the idle jet as lean as possible without having it do loud machine gun backfire on decel. A great idea, but people like to remove them because it makes the carb easier to tune correctly. Anyways, if your midbody gasket went and is partially blocked the idle circuit, you can get a little more fuel flow in the idle circuit by simulating a coast enrichening situation by manually closing the bridge between those two nipples on the carb. This is what I had to do on my FCR. I suspect many many people with FCRs originating in the early 2000s are running into midbody gasket problems.... Though fortunately you can find the gasket for 15 dollars on ebay, and a legion of people on the forums telling you to pass and just buy a new 800 dollar carb.
  12. Funny you're doing this post as I am about to make a post myself. I'm going to attempt to do the mid-body gasket replacement on my dead slant FCR body. Give the Coast Enrichener delete a try for now. Assuming you've simply increased the idle speed already... Aside from not idling, any other problems? Machine gun backfire on decel? The process is outlined somewhere But instead of running a bridge to that second airjet on the side of the carb, just put a vacuum plug over it. It worked on my carb all the way up until spring, now same problem, no control over the pilot circuit.... Anyways, there is this octopus looking thing on the left side of your carb. There is a tube going to your intake manifold and two tubes going to the airbox side of the carb. Remove these and put vacuum plugs on all open nipples. If you're bike runs after this it's highly likely your carb is waiting to go "deadbody" from the midbody gasket deteriorating. You could also simply have a vacuum leak on the tube going between the coast enrichener and your intake manifold causing your problem. Good news is the midbody gasket SKU exists in the All Balls racing database, but out of stock.... I'll update if my midbody gasket replacement is successful. With the rising cost of FCRs reviving these "deadbodies" could be a great way to save HUGE money. Geez it's 800 bucks to get a new FCR these days!! Thats over half what I paid for my DRZ...
  13. Sounds like a good excuse to get a good deal on a probably perfectly fine bike. Might be and probably is completely unrelated to the pressure washing is it went 200 miles afterwards. It might have a spec of fuel line in the pilot jet. Who knows? Working on bikes is part of owning bikes. It's inevitable that something will go wrong and you'll have to fix it. Whatever's wrong with it it doesn't sound catastrophic.
  14. Hi there. I used to post in here pretty often a while back. Just looking to bounce an idea off all you're guys' heads to see if I learn something. At the very end of last season, like late october, my DRZ quit running. I chalked it up to the .50c fuel filter I used all season finally dissolving and plugging up the carb. Recently I gave the carb a good cleaning and put it back on the bike. Ran like new again right away. I replaced the fuel filter too with one of those brass filters that you can backflush to clean out. I tore up the yard with it a bit and parked it. Next day no start??? So today I cleaned just the pilot circuit with a squirt of air and a fiddling with a guitar string. It all seemed pretty clean in the first place, but I stopped here and put it back together. Bike fires right up. Tore the yard up some more, made sure it was all running like normal, and it was. Then parked it. Decided to see if it would start just 30 mins ago, no start. It's such a strange problem. It ran perfectly when I parked it. I shouldn't say no start, because it did start, but it only ran for a few seconds, then shut off, then no start. Anybody experience a similar problem before? If so what did it end up being? It has a full tank of fresh gas and an ounce of stabil. To be honest there is some debris in the tank, but only a few flakes of varnish from the 10 years of sitting it did before I got it, it would get caught in a filter for sure. I kind of think it might be the midbody gasket of my FCR finally causing serious problems. I already had to start running it with the coast enrichener bipassed to get control over the idle circuit. The bike is a '00 E model so it has the slant FCR carb. Calling all slant FCR specialists. Whenever I think I have a handle on this thing mechanically it always throws some other problem at me to trip me up. I'm ready to get out of school, get that salary, and get a fuel injected bike.
  15. If I had 17 inch spoked rims and all I rode was street I wouldn't consider Tubliss. I'd get the lightest gauge tubes I could find, talcum powder them up and take them to a local shop to be balanced. Regarding the previous poster saying the balance sucks, well likely it's not much worse than a heavy tube. But definitely million times better than bolting an aluminum beadlock in. I haven't looked at any other lever options, but if you do research I bet they exist. I honestly am not much into trying to make my Z look nice, so I didn't even consider it, just wanted the functionality of the lighter and more precise clutch pull. I got it I think. Time will tell if it holds up.