ClutchinChrisG

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About ClutchinChrisG

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  1. Post some pics @ohiodrz400sm!
  2. My Hymec was putting a little preload on the actuator arm... Something to check for to everyone who wants one or has installed one. I got out the angle grinder and shaved off 3/16ths of an inch from the slave cylinder perch/ cable perch to give the system a little more slack. Will find out if it still slips next time I beat on it!
  3. I was out riding today and my clutch started slipping. Bummer.... I ordered a clutch kit but cancelled when I saw this thread and did some more research. Seems like the fibers and plates are hard to wear out and I don't ride all that much so I'm looking into other causes. I found my Hymec Hydraulic clutch is a little bit installed wrong and putting a bit of preload on the clutch. So I made some mods to fix this. If it still slips are there good aftermarket springs to consider? I see an EBC spring kit on amazon for 10 bucks...
  4. Installed the Tubliss system! Not installed but just ordered a new clutch.
  5. For the slant fcr the two halves don't fit together all that great and are only held together with two bolts. The epoxy goes around the outer edge to keep them from moving once assembled. The mx looks to have 4 bolts and no epoxy at all. I think it's not necessary for the mx. I do think using gasgacinch or some other kind of oring glue is necessary though to keep the seals from sliding around while you assemble the two halves. I think this is what Erik meant by "packing" he means the modbody seals themselves, right? And not to use epoxy, but some kind of gasgacinch or similar product, right?
  6. Yours does look pretty clean inside. Which makes sense if carb cleaner has never touched it and they are only 10 years old. Can't hurt to replace it though. Might want to pick up gasgacinch for the gaskets to hold them in place during assembly though. Of course with yours since it seems there isn't epoxy you can just take it apart again pretty easily.
  7. I don't think the fcr-mx needs epoxy. Maybe someone who's opened one will respond?
  8. The AF does get really rich between 4700 and 6200 rpm. Is that normal? I'm trying to learn something here.
  9. Ahh I see, shows what I know.
  10. I hear you can play with leak jets on the MX carb. Maybe it's getting a bit too much squirt?
  11. I think all those bikes use the FCRMX carb. Not really sure. But if it is make sure you get the right gasket. My understanding is that using carb cleaner is a huge factor and destroys the midbody gasket. Goodluck with the repair! If everything else is good and you have recommended jetting but the bike won't run right then it can't be anything but a carb problem. Go for it. Post pics as you go.
  12. I just ordered the Tubliss for my DRZ. Hoping for a little more control in the slimy stuff. How do you like it on your bike?
  13. Wow that thing has some yank! 50HP is probably enough.
  14. Well when I got the bike it always had problems with running lean on the pilot circuit. Machine gun backfire slowing down, hanging idle, etc. I cleaned the carb up many times and tried different pilot jets and got a remote fuel screw and I just couldn't get it to run right down low. I ended up coming across the advice of simulating a coast enrichening event by capping off the secondary pilot air jet and was able to richen the pilot circuit up enough to get it to run pretty good. Though I still had no control over the pilot circuit, the fuel screw and pilot jet changes wouldn't do anything. However back in October I went for a quick ride and the bike was back to it's old crap of not wanting to idle. After this ride it wouldn't start anymore. Cleaning the carb would yield maybe 20 mins of running before it stopped again. I cleaned it twice and it kept having problems and decided the mid-body gasket had finally become shot for good and I needed a new carb or to replace the gasket. So if you are running recommended pilot circuit jetting and cleaning the carb doesn't help you most likely need this gasket. Honestly the job is easy enough, the gasket is cheap. If I had to touch an FCR that was over 10 years old for any reason I'd probably just replace it for peace of mind. Having done it once I don't see it taking more than a couple hours the second time. You could screw up the job yes, but not in a way that ruins the carb. Maybe you'd have to take it apart again but whatever. The only special materials I needed were JB kwik weld for the final assembly and Gasgacinch for holding the gaskets in place during assembly. I wish I had the knowledge and experience to do a truly useful write-up about this service. Would like to share I did get a full refund from FCR guy. Can't say anything about the quality of his work. But if you order from him expect it to take a week for him to get back to you. I don't know if he had some kind of emergency or something but I never got any replies back since the initial one. I just decided to attempt contact daily since his initial reply and after a few days my refund showed up. But he never responded to my messages. Maybe not so polite.... I don't know. I don't like the idea of thinking someone wouldn't have a good reason for the crappy customer service. But he never did get back to me. Unless he really is a one man show rebuilding 20 carbs a day I don't see why he wouldn't have the time to answer customer emails. Whatever, I'm glad it's over. Just put some of that refund towards a Tubliss setup for offroad riding. Some more will go to MX boots for offroading. Can't wait to tear up the trails on my mighty DRZ!
  15. Man that thing has it's own weight in mud attached! Lol at the mud cooling. As long as cool fresh mud gets constantly splattered on the engine you can keep from overheating right? Epic!