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ClutchinChrisG

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Everything posted by ClutchinChrisG

  1. ClutchinChrisG

    slant FCR mid-body gasket replacement

    I think I'll try the JB weld out as I have some on hand. What did you use to hold the gasket in place during reassembly? Oring lube or some kind of gasket sealer? I have oring lube on hand as well.
  2. ClutchinChrisG

    slant FCR mid-body gasket replacement

    Lol, I think it's a matter of if it's structural or not. I want to use RTV so I don't have to worry bout it being truly permanently assembled... But then again the stuff I spent an hour scraping off the carb halves looked a lot like JB weld. I have used it a few times. I work in a computer repair place and it's useful for old unibody macbook pro's which are basically held together with superglue, lol garbage. Change that stuff out for JB weld. If all it needs to do is seal there is easier to work with stuff out there than JB weld. I think I'll try a more removable sealant and if it doesn't work I can always go to JB-weld later.
  3. ClutchinChrisG

    slant FCR mid-body gasket replacement

    Do you think it's necessary to epoxy it back together or is any kind of fuel-proof sealant ok? Literally looks like it's held together with JB-weld... Not too familiar with the strength of the stuff though, don't want to assemble it more permanently.
  4. ClutchinChrisG

    DRZ400E Hard Start, No Idle

    The CE on the E model does have one vacuum line. I stole a pic off google images.... There are three lines, typically the two nipples on the carb are joined to complete the CE removal. The other line you see going off into nowhere connects to a vacuum port on the intake manifold, be sure to put a cap on this as the bike won't run without the vacuum port capped, obviously. It works by keeping those two nipples on the carb bridged during normal operation, but closes the bridge and richens the idle circuit under high vacuum. Like on hard engine brake. This lets the manufacturer run the idle jet as lean as possible without having it do loud machine gun backfire on decel. A great idea, but people like to remove them because it makes the carb easier to tune correctly. Anyways, if your midbody gasket went and is partially blocked the idle circuit, you can get a little more fuel flow in the idle circuit by simulating a coast enrichening situation by manually closing the bridge between those two nipples on the carb. This is what I had to do on my FCR. I suspect many many people with FCRs originating in the early 2000s are running into midbody gasket problems.... Though fortunately you can find the gasket for 15 dollars on ebay, and a legion of people on the forums telling you to pass and just buy a new 800 dollar carb.
  5. ClutchinChrisG

    DRZ400E Hard Start, No Idle

    Funny you're doing this post as I am about to make a post myself. I'm going to attempt to do the mid-body gasket replacement on my dead slant FCR body. Give the Coast Enrichener delete a try for now. Assuming you've simply increased the idle speed already... Aside from not idling, any other problems? Machine gun backfire on decel? The process is outlined somewhere But instead of running a bridge to that second airjet on the side of the carb, just put a vacuum plug over it. It worked on my carb all the way up until spring, now same problem, no control over the pilot circuit.... Anyways, there is this octopus looking thing on the left side of your carb. There is a tube going to your intake manifold and two tubes going to the airbox side of the carb. Remove these and put vacuum plugs on all open nipples. If you're bike runs after this it's highly likely your carb is waiting to go "deadbody" from the midbody gasket deteriorating. You could also simply have a vacuum leak on the tube going between the coast enrichener and your intake manifold causing your problem. Good news is the midbody gasket SKU exists in the All Balls racing database, but out of stock.... I'll update if my midbody gasket replacement is successful. With the rising cost of FCRs reviving these "deadbodies" could be a great way to save HUGE money. Geez it's 800 bucks to get a new FCR these days!! Thats over half what I paid for my DRZ...
  6. ClutchinChrisG

    Bike Ran Stopped now wont start

    Sounds like a good excuse to get a good deal on a probably perfectly fine bike. Might be and probably is completely unrelated to the pressure washing is it went 200 miles afterwards. It might have a spec of fuel line in the pilot jet. Who knows? Working on bikes is part of owning bikes. It's inevitable that something will go wrong and you'll have to fix it. Whatever's wrong with it it doesn't sound catastrophic.
  7. ClutchinChrisG

    Carb cleaning question

    Hi there. I used to post in here pretty often a while back. Just looking to bounce an idea off all you're guys' heads to see if I learn something. At the very end of last season, like late october, my DRZ quit running. I chalked it up to the .50c fuel filter I used all season finally dissolving and plugging up the carb. Recently I gave the carb a good cleaning and put it back on the bike. Ran like new again right away. I replaced the fuel filter too with one of those brass filters that you can backflush to clean out. I tore up the yard with it a bit and parked it. Next day no start??? So today I cleaned just the pilot circuit with a squirt of air and a fiddling with a guitar string. It all seemed pretty clean in the first place, but I stopped here and put it back together. Bike fires right up. Tore the yard up some more, made sure it was all running like normal, and it was. Then parked it. Decided to see if it would start just 30 mins ago, no start. It's such a strange problem. It ran perfectly when I parked it. I shouldn't say no start, because it did start, but it only ran for a few seconds, then shut off, then no start. Anybody experience a similar problem before? If so what did it end up being? It has a full tank of fresh gas and an ounce of stabil. To be honest there is some debris in the tank, but only a few flakes of varnish from the 10 years of sitting it did before I got it, it would get caught in a filter for sure. I kind of think it might be the midbody gasket of my FCR finally causing serious problems. I already had to start running it with the coast enrichener bipassed to get control over the idle circuit. The bike is a '00 E model so it has the slant FCR carb. Calling all slant FCR specialists. Whenever I think I have a handle on this thing mechanically it always throws some other problem at me to trip me up. I'm ready to get out of school, get that salary, and get a fuel injected bike.
  8. ClutchinChrisG

    What did you do to your DRZ400 today?

    If I had 17 inch spoked rims and all I rode was street I wouldn't consider Tubliss. I'd get the lightest gauge tubes I could find, talcum powder them up and take them to a local shop to be balanced. Regarding the previous poster saying the balance sucks, well likely it's not much worse than a heavy tube. But definitely million times better than bolting an aluminum beadlock in. I haven't looked at any other lever options, but if you do research I bet they exist. I honestly am not much into trying to make my Z look nice, so I didn't even consider it, just wanted the functionality of the lighter and more precise clutch pull. I got it I think. Time will tell if it holds up.
  9. ClutchinChrisG

    What did you do to your DRZ400 today?

    I installed the Magura Hydro clutch kit on the Z. It's an easy pull anyways but the hydro clutch eases it even more. I had to do some filing on the actuator lever down on the motor to get the thing to fit as well as manhandle bend my Acerbis bark busters to clear the clutch lever. It is a farther travel lever while having no cable friction. The end result is effortless one-finger clutch actuation as well as a nice wide band of engagement. I want to go Tubliss next.
  10. ClutchinChrisG

    free power mod, really needed ?

    I'm not sure kicking the bike will charge the cap enough to start the bike, a hill start would though. I like the idea of a cap installation and replacing the battery completely but worry about not being able to charge a dead cap with the kickstarter.
  11. ClutchinChrisG

    free power mod, really needed ?

    The free power mod is a reliability fix. You can wait till that plug that connects to the RR to the battery corrodes and fails, leaving you with a bike where the electric start doesnt work, or at worse completely stranded cause the battery is so dead you there isn't enough volts to fire the ignition coil and you can't even push start it (Had this happen to me.... luckily on the other side of the block to home, didn't have to push for too long) Possibly shorting out when it fails and frying your stator, (this also happened). Or you can just run the jumpers from the RR direct to the battery right now, spend 10 mins maybe, and live worry free.
  12. ClutchinChrisG

    what is this noise ?

    Worn sprockets? If they look like this or worse you need new ones: https://www.google.com/search?q=worn+sprockets&espv=2&biw=1229&bih=607&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiO5ZbwjfXQAhUN5WMKHXyHAeMQ_AUIBygC#imgrc=9DyXdw1vBVFqdM%3A
  13. I'd suspect the RR at this point. Another thing you can do is, with the bike off, put a multimeter inbetween the battery negative terminal and ground. You should only get a milliamp or two of drain with the key off. In the FAQ section it has another number for key on. Check both amp draws and if anything is high you know there is a short. I'd avoid running the bike with the stator plugged in cause it seems like it still works. They blow somewhat easily form what I understand so keeping it plugged in with a short will cause it to fail quickly. While we're at it never kickstart a bike with a totally dead battery for the same reason, could short the stator as it works triple time dumping amps into a battery that'll never raise voltage. A 100watt stator will gladly deliver 500+ watts of charging power to a completely drained battery. It's only a 100 watt stator because that is the max sustained power output without overheating the insulation and causing a short. There is a section in the FAQ with all the information you could need for ohming out your stator, operating voltages, diagnosing, etc.
  14. ClutchinChrisG

    thumb throttle?

    I guess one of the problems with a thumb throttle is the danger of them getting pinned open much easier than a twist. The first things I rode were quads and the thumb throttle is way simpler for me. I agree that I'd have better control in bumps and standing up. I also think that my thumb would get sore quickly and it'd be a nuisance on the road after five minutes where there is nothing to distract you from your thumb getting sore. Setup would be easy, thumb throttle are mostly all one cable so just remove the return cable from the bike (Throttle stick danger) and use the pull only.
  15. ClutchinChrisG

    Carb ?

    I think it's a hotstart, they lean the idle circuit so if it's all flooded out it's easier to kickstart.
  16. ClutchinChrisG

    Don't all DRZ400's have a generator?

    The original DRZ 400 is a kicker only without a battery and doesn't need a very hardcore stator. The flywheel and crank on that model are different from the E, the S, and the SM models. I found out when I tried to replace the flywheel in my E model with the flywheel out of kicker model. Lol I thought I had a bad day when I realized I blew 50 bucks on something that will never be useful for nearly anybody. I still have it, if you can confirm that yours is a kicker bottom end and you want to convert to that I might be able to ship it to you. The kicker only flywheel has no one-way bearings or a starter spur gear.
  17. ClutchinChrisG

    Purchasing a fc39 carb / Suggestions for mechanic in Seattle

    I don't know any mechanics but you should do it yourself, there are lots of walkthroughs out there. Monkey see monkey do. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/562280-fcr-39mx-install-using-the-tt-kit/
  18. ClutchinChrisG

    DRZ400sm idles but won't rev

    Unfortunately I'm an hour and a half away in the west of cleveland area. Lucky you, a lot closer to country roads than I am.
  19. ClutchinChrisG

    Trail Tech Vapor SUCKS

    Thirty seconds and a pair of scissors and someone could hotwire a drz. Or thirty seconds and a knife, thirty seconds and a pair of wire strippers, or probably a minute if they just used their teeth. Bam, hotwired, stolen DRZ. Must be junk.
  20. ClutchinChrisG

    DRZ400sm idles but won't rev

    Whaddya know! My name is Chris and I'm also from NE Ohio! When I first got my DRZ I had all kinds of issues with it. One of them was a charging system issue. The very first thing you check in the charging system is the battery voltage. If you are over 14.2-14.3 at idle or slightly over idle the charging system is fine. Now If you youre charging system isn't fine, and you simply kickstart your bike like I did with mine, you can ride for a while on an almost dead battery. But as it gets more and more dead there is a point where your revs start to get sealed off. Once you notice it at like 8000rpm you continue to get less revs for the next mile where you end up stranded with a bike that wont run. But, if yours starts up with the button start it is long from having such a low battery voltage that you can't rev it up. It has to be a carb issue. I would suspect that it isn't the pilot circuit. A pilot circuit issue usually means it won't idle, but yours won't rev. It likely isn't a vacuum leak issue either because that definitely presents itself with an idle problem, not a rev problem. Unless the vacuum leak has to do with the circuit that lifts the slide. I've found that the best thing to clean carbs if you don't have a fancy sonic cleaner is to use simple green, a brush, and the brass windings from a classical guitar string. It is brass like the jets so it doesn't screw them all up. Just poke the winding through all the passages. It can be difficult because of how soft it is but it works well if you can get it through. Maybe the carb slide is sticking? Check the slide for silky smooth actuation the next time you take it apart. The diaphragm is supposed to be soft and supple as well, should not be at all stiff or brittle. My bet is that it has something to do with the slide.
  21. ClutchinChrisG

    DRZ400 CL finds

    Pass on used carbs. My E model has a carb just one year older than the one in that ad, getting it working was a huge pain in the ass. Not to mention that is a lot of money for a used slant FCR. Just buy a brand new FCR or an almost new one.
  22. ClutchinChrisG

    DRZ400 CL finds

    Damn, he's either a really nice guy, a really stupid guy, or knows it's about to blow up in the next hundred miles.
  23. ClutchinChrisG

    DRZ400 CL finds

    Thats an awesome score MrROB! That thing looks mint.
  24. ClutchinChrisG

    Why can't I find used rims for my DRZ?

    I'm looking to buy a set of rims for my DRZ400. I have dirt tires and street tires and it just sucks having to mount and dismount tires all the time, it's too much work. I want another set of rims for my drz, not 17 inch rims, but 18/21's. Here's some of the things I found: http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-Suzuki-DRZ-400-S-TAKASAGO-Rear-Wheel-STRAIGHT-18-x-2-15/381106095080?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33890%26meid%3Dc3fa94b977484bb68a4defe17e5b64fc%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D262082522900 http://www.ebay.com/itm/07-DRZ400E-DRZ400-DRZ-400-rear-wheel-rim-disc-36/191706392618?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33890%26meid%3D1963a0f81fcb4b9b92ef2bb1be735e17%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D381106095080 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-04-Suzuki-DRZ400S-DRZ-400S-DRZ400-400-Front-Wheel-Rim-Tire-Rotor-Axle-Hub-/361408656429?hash=item5425a2742d:g:lGAAAOSw9mFWHrZi&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-04-Suzuki-DRZ400S-DRZ-400S-DRZ400-400-Rear-Wheel-Rim-Tire-Rotor-Axle-Hub-/361408656651?hash=item5425a2750b:g:LuQAAOSwYHxWHraL&vxp=mtr Would I be wrong in saying that is some crazy prices for rims? I can go on ebay and find a set of new oem alloys for my mazda for less than it costs to buy a used set for my dirt bike, lol what the heck. I know its an old post, but here is a thread from 07, it's amazing how the prices have gone up: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/403009-how-much-are-my-stock-drz400-wheels-worth/ What I'm saying in the end, is I need a set of rims. Are any of these decent deals or should I wait or does anybody out there have a set of rims that are just taking up space? Thanks!
  25. ClutchinChrisG

    Why can't I find used rims for my DRZ?

    I paid 1500 for my drz. Does this mean that Half my money basically went to buying the rims? Lol. I feel bad for the friend I bought it from. I really jerked him over. It's amazing how the DRZ isn't really even all that great a bike and one in good condition is worth as much as a mid 2000's sedan in good condition. I just paid 40 dollars including shipping for a 95 rm 125 front rim, WITH the crusty old rotor still on, probably sand it up, good as new. From the research I've done it should work fine and I think that it has the same hub as the Drz does but without the nubs for the speedo. I believe that I can use the speedo as a spacer regardless, heck on my E model the speedo unit has silicone all gobbed into the pickup hole, useless anyways. I'll let everybody know how that goes when it gets here. If it all works out I saved myself some huge money. Even if the bearings are toasted and siezed in and I have to spend 2 hours extracting them without screwing up the hub it would be worth it. I didn't see any good deals on rear rims but I'll keep looking and I'll check ADVrider.
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