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ClutchinChrisG

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Posts posted by ClutchinChrisG


  1. My Hymec was putting a little preload on the actuator arm... Something to check for to everyone who wants one or has installed one. I got out the angle grinder and shaved off 3/16ths of an inch from the slave cylinder perch/ cable perch to give the system a little more slack. Will find out if it still slips next time I beat on it!

    • Like 1

  2. I was out riding today and my clutch started slipping. Bummer.... I ordered a clutch kit but cancelled when I saw this thread and did some more research. Seems like the fibers and plates are hard to wear out and I don't ride all that much so I'm looking into other causes. I found my Hymec Hydraulic clutch is a little bit installed wrong and putting a bit of preload on the clutch. So I made some mods to fix this.

    If it still slips are there good aftermarket springs to consider? I see an EBC spring kit on amazon for 10 bucks...

    • Like 1

  3. For the slant fcr the two halves don't fit together all that great and are only held together with two bolts. The epoxy goes around the outer edge to keep them from moving once assembled. The mx looks to have 4 bolts and no epoxy at all. I think it's not necessary for the mx.

    I do think using gasgacinch or some other kind of oring glue is necessary though to keep the seals from sliding around while you assemble the two halves. I think this is what Erik meant by "packing" he means the modbody seals themselves, right? And not to use epoxy, but some kind of gasgacinch or similar product, right?


  4. Yours does look pretty clean inside. Which makes sense if carb cleaner has never touched it and they are only 10 years old. Can't hurt to replace it though.

    Might want to pick up gasgacinch for the gaskets to hold them in place during assembly though. Of course with yours since it seems there isn't epoxy you can just take it apart again pretty easily.


  5. I think all those bikes use the FCRMX carb. Not really sure. But if it is make sure you get the right gasket. 

    My understanding is that using carb cleaner is a huge factor and destroys the midbody gasket.

    Goodluck with the repair! If everything else is good and you have recommended jetting but the bike won't run right then it can't be anything but a carb problem. Go for it. Post pics as you go.

    • Like 1

  6. Well when I got the bike it always had problems with running lean on the pilot circuit. Machine gun backfire slowing down, hanging idle, etc. I cleaned the carb up many times and tried different pilot jets and got a remote fuel screw and I just couldn't get it to run right down low. I ended up coming across the advice of simulating a coast enrichening event by capping off the secondary pilot air jet and was able to richen the pilot circuit up enough to get it to run pretty good. Though I still had no control over the pilot circuit, the fuel screw and pilot jet changes wouldn't do anything. However back in October I went for a quick ride and the bike was back to it's old crap of not wanting to idle. After this ride it wouldn't start anymore. Cleaning the carb would yield maybe 20 mins of running before it stopped again. I cleaned it twice and it kept having problems and decided the mid-body gasket had finally become shot for good and I needed a new carb or to replace the gasket. 

    So if you are running recommended pilot circuit jetting and cleaning the carb doesn't help you most likely need this gasket. Honestly the job is easy enough, the gasket is cheap. If I had to touch an FCR that was over 10 years old for any reason I'd probably just replace it for peace of mind. Having done it once I don't see it taking more than a couple hours the second time. You could screw up the job yes, but not in a way that ruins the carb. Maybe you'd have to take it apart again but whatever. The only special materials I needed were JB kwik weld for the final assembly and Gasgacinch for holding the gaskets in place during assembly. I wish I had the knowledge and experience to do a truly useful write-up about this service. 

    Would like to share I did get a full refund from FCR guy.
    Can't say anything about the quality of his work. But if you order from him expect it to take a week for him to get back to you. I don't know if he had some kind of emergency or something but I never got any replies back since the initial one. I just decided to attempt contact daily since his initial reply and after a few days my refund showed up. But he never responded to my messages. Maybe not so polite.... I don't know. I don't like the idea of thinking someone wouldn't have a good reason for the crappy customer service. But he never did get back to me. Unless he really is a one man show rebuilding 20 carbs a day I don't see why he wouldn't have the time to answer customer emails. Whatever, I'm glad it's over.

    Just put some of that refund towards a Tubliss setup for offroad riding. :) Some more will go to MX boots for offroading. Can't wait to tear up the trails on my mighty DRZ!

    • Like 1

  7. I think it's fuel related. If you get good flow out your fuel line another place to check is the little screen over your needle seat in the carb. You have to remove the needle seat to see it though. If you're going to remove it and never have just buy a new one and filter because you'll screw up the old one taking it out 110% of the time. At least the FCR has this feature, assuming the BSR probably does too. If that screen is all clogged with goo and you're getting a very slow flow you can ride till the bowl is empty and then it quits until the bowl fills again.

    I'm tempted to not think it's the stator. If the stator goes bad you typically get a no charge which would mean your battery would be dying, which it isn't. 

    Spring is a good time to take the carb apart anyways, when you have a few hours take it out, tear it down, clean, and reassemble. Purchase any expanded or crumbling gaskets while you're in there.

    • Like 1

  8. If you're problem is no fluid to the caliper. Interesting idea, might help remive the caliper and hold it higher than the MC while doing a pumping bleed. This would keep the fluid from swapping places with the air in the lines so the MC could stay primed. Never tried this, just a thought.

    • Like 1

  9. They are just a pain to get started manually. You can get the flow started in a pinch by following this process:

    Crack bleeder, pull lever, close bleeder, release lever, repeat.

    But I would expect at least 15 mins if you're fast at this. Now if you can pick up or borrow a vacuum bleeder you'll be done in a couple minutes.

    • Like 1

  10. Whooooo!

    My drz runs again! And this time, for the first time ever, with the CE delete done normally! I used to have the CE ports capped but now it runs with them bridged like they are supposed to be!

    I picked up some JB Kwik weld to use as epoxy. Unfortunately it has literally JUST enough working time for this job. It was pretty scary starting to tack up as I spread the last bit down with a toothpick. On the plus side didn't have to wait for it to dry! 

    I used gasgacinch to secure the gaskets during assembly. That was a great idea and Amazon got that to my door in two days. 

    Well I got it slapped back together today and it fired up third kick. :) Then took it off choke and it had a bit of a hanging idle so I loosened the fuel screw and for the first time ever it did something and ran just right down low. I took it for a little ride and after warming up I was able to screw it back in a little.

    So pleased my bike is a runner again! I think the last of my random no start problems are finally over!

    • Like 3

  11. Now I see that you have a vacuum controlled petcock. In one of the upper pictures it appeared to me you had a piece of hose with a screw in it to cap off the vacuum port on the intake manifold.

    What you did on the carb wasn't what I was talking about. What you did will richen the pilot circuit. It can be a neat way to get control of the pilot circuit if you're having midbody gasket issues. But on a normal carb with the CE delete you just keep these two ports bridged with a piece of hose.


    Sorry bring it back to the way it was I'm dumb lol. My E model has a normal petcock not the vacuum petcock and I saw the FCR on your bike without a coast enrichener. I assumed you had done the CE delete but capped the vacuum port on the manifold with a piece of hose with a screw in it. I did this at first when I did the coast enrichener delete and it just leaked air.

    My bad for the bad advice. 


  12. Would like to update that keihin-fcr.com did finally get back to me. Seems like a cool dude, but prefers the phone over email. He was polite and said he'd refund my carb since he hasn't shipped it yet. Super cool. Can't speak for his quality of work but I would imagine any level headed guy can figure out how to clean a carb and put it back together. He certainly is.
    Anybody know if I can edit previous posts? I'd like to update my first post so it doesn't tell everyone to avoid him.

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