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Adam N.

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About Adam N.

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    Motorcycles, gardening, hifi equipment.

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  1. I'll see if I can explain that. We're using units of 1 MPH. (50-53=-3) In this case the computer is off by -3 MPH. That is three units of 1 MPH. That is it reads 3 mph too high so it must be corrected by subtracting 3 MPH (-3). To do that we need to convert it into some kind of number that we can use to correct the wheel size you enter into the computer. In this case a percentage. Percentages are expressed in math a 1=100% . Since you drive the motorcycle in my example at 50 MPH each unit of 1 MPH =2% (.02). If you drove it at 100 MPH then that number would be .01 (1/100th of 100 MPH) If you drove it at 25 MPH you'd use .04 (4/100) The faster the motorcycle goes during the correction test the more accurate the final number will be. I chose 50 as the fastest speed that made the math easy. This number doesn't care about the units of speed. If you went 100 KPH and the computer said you were going 98 KPH the correction factor would be .02. If you went 100 MPH and the computer said you went 98 the correction factor would be .02. Because it's based on 100% (or MPH or KPH) You could also break this up into three equations. (50-53)*0.02=-.06 (correction factor) -.06*2250=-135 2250-135=2115 2115 is the number you'd enter into the Trail Tech. Correction amount=(GPS MPH 50-Computer MPH)*(% each unit represents)/ *current wheel size
  2. (50-53)*0.02*2250 = -135 (actual GPS speed-speed shown on computer) x .02 x current wheel size = correction factor (-135) So the final number will be 2250-135=2115. That's what you enter into the computer.
  3. I live in Northampton, MA and have done probably a half dozen bikes through Vermont. All were older than yours. I've never had a problem. I have even had VT registrations with my own MA address on the last couple. No VT address involved at all. They don't blink. I've done one by mail and it went through but have done most at the Dummerston VT office. Friends have done these too. Just bring the bike into MA after six months to avoid paying the sales tax twice. At that point you have a registered, titled, legal MA plated 2 stroke. If you don't intend to ride it on the street over the winter don't bother insuring it. VT doesn't require insurance to register.
  4. I needed to replace my wheel bearings and accidentally ordered Tusk Impact Wheel Bearing and Seal Kit - Rear - 2005 KTM 300 EXCPart # 1485880005 These are not supposed to fit the stock wheels and are supposed to be for the Tusk wheels. It turns out these are the correct 6005 bearings for the bike and the seals are correct also. So, for $20 you get three bearings (one extra), a new circlip and a couple of seals. You could get even cheaper bearings from a local supply house but this is pretty good and it's one stop with the circlip and seals. It's way cheaper than stock parts and probably just as good. If you change them fairly often it seems like a good strategy to me.
  5. The disc measured 3.47 mm but it was thinner in places, so it was below service limit. The disc was shot. The pads were mostly worn out too. I got the Tusk disc and I think it's better. There's more metal (less holes) for sure. I went to the dealer and got a set of EBC pads, but they wound up being "red" or Carbon X. Not recommended for mud, which we get a lot of here in New England I've got a ride this weekend and I am looking forward to having brakes again!
  6. Mine used to get crummy gas mileage because it was upside down a lot. Crashing really decreases your gas mileage.
  7. There was a Neutron in there, but it didn't get to metal to metal. Still, the caliper was physically hot because I don't think the material insulates well. I'll be using EBC pads from here on.
  8. Just by the nature of where we live it's hilly and very rocky and root covered. My bike being both Rekluse and 2 stroke I need to do something to control speed on decent. We tend to ride powerlines and trails, the powelines are all ripped up by quads and filled with loose rolly stuff. The woods are, well, woods. I think when it's all taken together, the terrain, the mud, me I'm just going to be hard on the rear disc. I'll try and change the pads more and see if it helps. When the material gets thin the whole system does heat up.
  9. I drag a lot. It's a hold over from mountain biking. It's just all rocks and mud here and I don't really want to ask too much of the front but I guess it's there for a reason. I proably should be changing the rear pads more, but having come from four stroke I am surprised at how quick they wear out. I think one thing that happening is I need to change them sooner because unless they have a lot of pad the whole system gets hot and wears everything faster. I am not sure what it is. When I had my old KLX I had a problem ripping out valves because even with one rim lock I was braking hard enough to rotate the tire relative to the rim and damage the valve. So, I used to use the front a lot more than I do on the KTM.
  10. LOL, Yes, duh. It can be a little hard to measure down to 1mm because the area is pretty tight, but my micrometer would have done it. I guess, "asking the internet" is a little too easy.
  11. I seem to destroy these compared to four stroke. I think, also, that my mountain bike background has made me into a rear brake dragger. I just ordered a new disc and we'll see how long it lasts. I got the Tusk disc because I've had pretty good luck with their stuff.
  12. I haven't ridden 2 stroke since I was a kid. I seem to have destroyed my rear disc in pretty short order! Pads were shot, disc was shot. I guess on four stokes engine braking takes care of a lot. Rear discs, if they go at this rate, seem kind of like a consumable. Pads, wow, go through a lot of those! I also live in the north east, so spring and fall are muddy.
  13. The reservoir cap for the master cylinder on my 300 exc is bigger than 19 and smaller than 22. What size is it? 20? 21? I want to buy a box end wrench to fit it but would like to buy just one. I have no idea why they didn't just make this thing 19mm. Thanks, Adam
  14. I just got time to do a real test of the KTM post seizure repair. The cylinder went to Powerseal and was rehabbed and went back in with the RK. I raised the needle in the Lectron metering rod 1/4 turn, that made a huge difference were starting was concerned. In warmer weather like we have now it's a 2 kick bike. I'm still satisfied with the rod for part throttle application. The bike didn't seem to run hot at all. I have a thermostat radiator cap. iIt did sound a little zingy compared to how it was jetted before but it just runs so right now/ I have the power jet open 1.5 turns. The PJ is mostly analogous to the main in that that it's effect is the top 1/4 of the throttle. From Lectron's website" "Most two stroke dirt bikes running pump gas will come with the power jet open between 3/4 of a turn and 1 1/4 of a turn from bottomed out." "If you are riding dunes, deep sand, outdoor motocross, or snow where you are wide open for extended periods, we recommend going ¼ turn richer to keep your motor cool." Right now I am riding at 1 1/2 turns open, which is super rich by Lectron standards. I went out for about an hour yesterday and rode some woods, where it performed great. Then I took it for a scary 4 mile wide open run on the highway. The PJ seemed about right to me. This is a change from where it was set before around 1 turn open. It's like a 50% increase. This confirms that RK likes a very rich top end. I don't really ride in that zone much except over the road transit sections between trails.
  15. It really was like the plug wire came loose. I am going to fatten it way up.
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