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big mike42

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About big mike42

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    TT Bronze Member

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  • Location
    Arizona
  1. At least that will heal easily.
  2. Ok so I called Jon at Rekluse and he was very helpful. I got rid of that judder spring or spring seat who knows what it is. Jon told me that when checking free play gain the adjustments should be very small sometimes not even a full click on the barrel adjuster. Also before putting in clutch, free play at lever must be at the point of zero but not beyond that. As stated above the rider does need to adjust as well. Stiffer clutch and upshifting upon decelerating RPM. Maybe I should have bought a tachometer as I'm not really positive as to what 5k RPMs sound like. Anyways clutch is adjusted just below a creep in first gear and I can up shift easier than before. Need to try it out in the desert though, but it's definitely better. Thanks Jon at Rekluse and thanks fellow TTrs
  3. Hello there, I'm having some problems with the setup of my new rekluse exp 3.0 Hope you can help. My friction plates and steels seemed a bit worn so I bought new clutch pack. I have installed and reinstalled the clutch 3 times and am getting frustrated. 1st install. I followed instructions fiber steel exp steel fiber steel etc. for a total of 6 steels 6 fibers and one exp. I warmed the bike up put rubber band on and the rubber band broke immediately. No big deal I will just use the hand method. I adjusted clutch so that there is no free play. This makes it very stiff, I put light pressure and revved engine to 5k or so and noticed lots of free play gain. so I adjusted clutch some more and it made it more stiff. Then free play gain seemed to be a bit better. I did the break in procedure and annoyed all of the neighbors. I noticed it was difficult to up shift without the clutch lever pulled in. 2nd install . blue springs Opened it back up pulled out all friction disks and steels and counted them just to double check. I wanted to put in the blue springs into exp disk but they are not in the bag. I have a 3 silver springs 3 red springs in bag. I thought maybe blue springs may be in exp disk so I opened all of the quarter turns and it revealed that they are all red. So I got no Blue springs. As I was putting the first friction in I notice a single spring or spring seat at the bottom. Not sure which one it is. I am not the original owner of this bike, but I do know that the clutch pack has been replaced. I decided to pull that spring seat or spring out and install the first friction disk and so on. After I lifted up bike off the ground something weird happened. None of the gears would engaged. Seemed like the clutch lever was pulled in. I rolled bike around in first gear and there was just a slight drag like it was not fully in gear but not in neutral either. I started bike in neutral checked for free play there was none. I put in first gear and revved engine nothing happened and I immediately turned it off. 3rd install Opened it back up and decided to put back in the spring seat or spring, whatever that thing is. I decided to do this because it at least would go in gear and drive this way. After finishing I checked the free play with hand method as best I know and it seemed good. I broke in a little as Im not sure if I need to do this again. Then as I'm trying to up shift it is requires a lot of force even with the clutch in. I adjusted the barrel adjuster and it seemed to ease the up shifting problem but now when I stop the bike creeps forward a lot on me. I noticed towards the end of my ride that the bike would rev a lot and not really go fast. I'm having a problem balancing forward creep with ease to up shift. I either get all of one or the other. Any suggestions, thanks for your help.
  4. oil change 10w40 synthetic, new oil filter, new tm designworks chain slide, chain guide and of course everyones favorite the roller with the powerlip, Also while I'm at it got a new sprocket 49T instead of 48T new xring chain and new front sprocket. I decided to change the the final drive assembly because there was alot of cruchiness going on when bike was off and I was rolling it. PS I may have purchased a rekluse clutch 3.0 ... cant wait.
  5. Here are some pictures as requested. Am I supposed to do anything with those screws on the bottom?
  6. It is an enzo subtank on both legs of fork. So what am I supposed to do with these things. How do they work, what maintenance is needed?
  7. Guess I'm in the market for a reservoir float seeing how I don't have one. I'm going to borrow a float and diaphragm from my neighbor just to make sure there is not something else. I'm assuming if I had a brake line leak I would never have pressure. Your the best Ron. You must have been working on bikes a long time.
  8. I noticed this blue screw was attracting a lot of dirt. I wiped it off then I noticed the screw was hanging on by a thread. What are these blue screws for on the top of my fork? What do I do with them. They are both attached to a tank on each fork leg. New guy still learning
  9. Thanks for your help again Ron. Do you think having a distorted non rectangular diaphragm could be the problem accompanied with no reservoir float in the MC? I think I got the cups (seals) facing the correct direction, one of them was flipped around. I have pressure now but its just not firm.
  10. Ok guys and girls I need you help. I bought my very first bike about 6 months ago. The front brake has always been sub-par. I had the bike looked over professionally when i bought it by a certified Yamaha mechanic and he could not get the front brake to stiffen up after multiple brake bleeds. I didn't' ask how he was bleeding, normal, reverse or gravity. I didn't really care at the time because I just wanted to ride. Now that I am going faster I would like more braking power so I decided to rebuild the master cylinder and reverse bleed the brakes. Now I can not get any pressure on the lever. Could anyone give me any advice on which way the seals on the little piston are supposed to be facing? Also I am missing the master cylinder float that goes just below the diaphragm according to the service manual. Would this make a difference. I don't know if it does cuz I had some pressure without it until I messed with it. HELP
  11. I wheelied four times in one day. The fourth time was by far the biggest wheelie and at a greater speed. I no longer wheelie nor do I want to. My knee still hurts.
  12. So I used to race mountain bikes and the brake levers are reversed. I currently ride a yz250f with no rekluse. On a mountain bike the LH is front and the RH is rear. I started riding motorcycles for the first time at the ripe old age of 39 and am having a heck of a time adjusting. When things really get hairy my instinct is to grab a lot of the RH brake, which inevitably throws me into the only barrel cactus within 200ft. If I was to buy the rekluse could i switch the left and right hand brakes to make them identical to a mountain bike? I swear I would be 10 times faster.
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