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About Tekime

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  1. Tekime

    Cracked oil drain hole on case

    That's a tough one. A good welder might be able to build it up and make a new thread but it would have to be very clean, which means draining and cleaning the motor, probably flipping it upside down so trace oil doesn't continue to leak down. If you're desperate for a quick fix, I guess it wouldn't hurt to drain the oil, lay the bike on the side so remaining oil isn't seeping down, clean the surface extremely well with carb cleaner/brake cleaner, then use some SteelStik and screw the bolt back in before it cures fully. SteelStik is actually pretty tough stuff, but there's a good chance it won't create a perfect seal. Maybe enough to get some more riding out of it but it would be a long shot.
  2. Tekime

    DR350 issue with valve clearance and decompression

    I could see kickback happening from incorrect starting procedure - usually when I use the decomp lever I sort of ignore when it pops out and rotate through until I get a lot of resistance. Then bring the kickstart to the top and put my entire body weight into a hard, smooth kick all the way through. Personally if I had doubts about the timing I would just remove the cover and check it. It's not that tricky, and you could get a look at your cam chain and condition of the cams/valves while you're in there.
  3. Tekime

    DR350 issue with valve clearance and decompression

    Right on. The decomp lever is weird - are you adjusting it after the valve adjust and still not working? Hot start issues are common, and usually come down to jetting, setting idle screw correctly, proper exhaust & air flow. My bike used to struggle to no end with hot starting on the trail, but after a proper carb setup, perfect valve adjust & idle screw setting it will start in a few kicks hot or cold. Took ages to get it dialed in though!
  4. Tekime

    DR350S Shifting and clutch issues

    That is very odd - I'd start with the basics. Cable routing - make sure the cable isn't binding on anything, it might look OK but then you turn the bars and it's getting tight or snagging on something. Just double check it's not snagging up on something with the bars turned fully in both directions. Also make sure you lube the Tusk cables, pretty sure these aren't a dry cable. Clutch arm - took me a while to get this just right. Loosen the clutch cable up, pull the arm off the pinion (the vertical shaft). Then turn the pinion by hand counter-clockwise until it stops (it should have some free play), then attach the arm at about 70 degrees relative to the clutch cover (so when you engage the clutch lever the arm is at about 90 degrees). This will probably require some fiddling for your bike and preference, but a single notch or a few degrees can make a big difference I've found. Once you're confident the cable is operating correctly, and if the issue is still there, probably time to check the clutch & rack/pinion mechanism itself. The clutch could be tightened down too much, and you might want to inspect & possibly replace the thrust washer. Seems unlikely though if it's intermittently loose then tight - my first guess would be that the cable is adjusted on the very loose end, and it's getting tight because of the routing, causing it to not really work well at any time.
  5. Tekime

    DR350 issue with valve clearance and decompression

    Sounds like you probably had it right. I usually remove the spark plug and visually check the piston while I watch the valves open and close just to be 1,000% sure. Soon as the piston hits TDC after the intake valves close I know it's at TDC on compression. I would definitely hit pause and investigate that noise and where the resistance is coming from. There should be little resistance with the plug removed. These bikes make all kinds of noises but grinding is usually not a good sign! I'd just start by pinpointing where the noise is coming from, and getting as much light as possible into the cylinder to visually inspect. Maybe you'll get lucky and find something obvious, but you might be in for popping the valve cover off entirely and inspecting. Would be a good opportunity to inspect the timing as well - I think it's possible to set the cam 180deg off and still have a running (but entirely wacked out) motor.
  6. Tekime

    Dr350 Speedometer help

    Okay, looking at your pic it does appear to have the standard speedo cable running from the right side of the axle. Assuming this is attached to the speedo, and if your problem is in fact that it's not showing the speed, these are a mechanical item that can wear and break over time. Check for any damage by unscrewing the cable from the speedo, and if needed, removing the front wheel and axle to check the speedo hub unit for damage.
  7. Tekime

    Dr350 Speedometer help

    How is it not working? No power at all, or just not displaying the speed? If no power, check the wires for any damage. If no speed, look for a wire leading to the front wheel, either connected to a plastic hub-type thing on the axle on the right side, or possibly a small sensor mounted near the axle on the left side (caliper side). If aftermarket, it may use a magnet attached to the rotor which could have fallen off.
  8. Tekime

    DR350 issue with valve clearance and decompression

    Are you 100% sure you did the valve adjustment at TDC on the compression stroke?
  9. Tekime


    Prices are all over - depends on timing, location, and just luck. I picked up a second '90 DR last summer for $350 and got it running with a carb clean, ended up trading it off. I've sunk over $3,000 into my own '90 making it street legal, full rebuild & lots of aftermarket stuff, and that's doing the work myself! Typically I see them around here in good clean shape for around $1,500. If that bike has solid service records $1,800 is not unreasonable with the aftermarket stuff, but it should be in tip-top shape. New chain, sprockets, tires, oil, recent valve adjustment, solid bearings, cables, etc. All of those wear items can add up. Take it for a test ride and see if they'll take a little less. Or hold out for something with lower miles. 34k is up there but if it's a well-maintained bike I'm with brainwashed - I'd take a well-loved bike with high miles over a beater with low miles any day.
  10. Tekime

    DR350 not starting! [even with starting fluid]

    Double check your cam alignment/cam chain, make sure it doesn't skip teeth on reassembly, maybe check cam chain guide tolerances while in there. Check for correct tolerances against the service manual for the ignition, coil, etc. Took me a long time to find the sweet spot kicking my DR over after a rebuild. Really needs a good kick, but pretty faithful once I found that spot. If you can't bump start I guess you could try putting it on a center stand, wrap a long ratchet strap around the rear wheel a bunch of times, have someone hold it steady and give it a good hard pull & run, lol
  11. Tekime

    92 DR350---won't start

    Resistance is definitely a good sign of compression. Air filter and checking for any leaks are the next easy items to check off. I feel like the carb is the likely culprit given that it sat for a while. A good disassemble/cleaning with compressed air/speaker wire/carb cleaner is not too bad of a job but I'd set aside an evening if you haven't done one before! You have gotta be kidding me. THAT could have gone a lot worse
  12. Tekime

    92 DR350---won't start

    Couldn't hurt to try bump-starting it. I'd start with the basics: check compression, clean/replace the air filter, check for air leaks, clean/rebuild the carb, check valve clearances. If you don't get anything with starter fluid you might want to start checking compression & valve clearances.
  13. Tekime

    (2) 1981 Dr 500's for $500. Worth it?

    Hnng... that color scheme is gorgeous
  14. Tekime

    (2) 1981 Dr 500's for $500. Worth it?

    Amazing find, super cool looking bikes too.
  15. Tekime

    1990 DR350s hanging idle

    Make all your adjustments once the bike has reached operating temp. This could be 15-20 minutes of idle or 5-10 minutes of hard riding. Rule out any air leaks (even tiny) around the carb boots and exhaust pipe. Try moving up one clip position on the carb, this helped a lot with my idle.