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About Tekime

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  1. Double check your cam alignment/cam chain, make sure it doesn't skip teeth on reassembly, maybe check cam chain guide tolerances while in there. Check for correct tolerances against the service manual for the ignition, coil, etc. Took me a long time to find the sweet spot kicking my DR over after a rebuild. Really needs a good kick, but pretty faithful once I found that spot. If you can't bump start I guess you could try putting it on a center stand, wrap a long ratchet strap around the rear wheel a bunch of times, have someone hold it steady and give it a good hard pull & run, lol
  2. Resistance is definitely a good sign of compression. Air filter and checking for any leaks are the next easy items to check off. I feel like the carb is the likely culprit given that it sat for a while. A good disassemble/cleaning with compressed air/speaker wire/carb cleaner is not too bad of a job but I'd set aside an evening if you haven't done one before! You have gotta be kidding me. THAT could have gone a lot worse
  3. Couldn't hurt to try bump-starting it. I'd start with the basics: check compression, clean/replace the air filter, check for air leaks, clean/rebuild the carb, check valve clearances. If you don't get anything with starter fluid you might want to start checking compression & valve clearances.
  4. Hnng... that color scheme is gorgeous
  5. Amazing find, super cool looking bikes too.
  6. Make all your adjustments once the bike has reached operating temp. This could be 15-20 minutes of idle or 5-10 minutes of hard riding. Rule out any air leaks (even tiny) around the carb boots and exhaust pipe. Try moving up one clip position on the carb, this helped a lot with my idle.
  7. Low compression + blue smoke sounds like toasted rings, but maybe there's something else going on.. can you roll/push in 2nd gear without a lot of resistance? Bad clutch/binding gears or something might cause it to stall when applying load if things won't move. Possibly a weak spark or bad timing, might not hurt to pop the valve cover and check for wear/damage to the cam/lobes/journals and make sure the cam timing is set correctly. I've read that you can add a teaspoon of oil through the spark plug hole and test compression again - if it goes up significantly you almost def have bad rings/scored cylinder. (I haven't actually tried this but it makes sense!) Have also read that a badly worn piston wrist pin can cause piston play that can create binding/damage rings (no firsthand experience here either luckily!) It seems unlikely to me that you would have this big of a problem from jetting/clip positions alone. In my experience, even going from a 127.5 main to a 145 just results in a richer mix, not falling on its face. If you've ruled out air leaks, fuel flow and 95% certain the carb is clean and working time to look elsewhere...
  8. Yeah, odo and engine. I don't know the models really well, but if the bike is a '92 that would mean the frame is a '92 right? So the odo/motor/other bits might have come off a donor bike? I guess the seller could answer all that lol Either way, in these parts you don't get a street legal DR in good shape for under $1k, seems like a good price.
  9. Compared to what? Other street-legal bikes in its class, or purpose built dirt bikes? I know my DR350 is a handful in some tight places, but it actually surprises me at what I've been able to negotiate.
  10. Indeed, unless they were transplants from the same bike, which seems quite possible. Not much detail available.
  11. Agreed, not a bad deal with estart and upgraded tank. Doesn't look like a basket case to me, actually looks pretty clean and listing says everything works. 23k miles is up there but if cared for it should have many miles left.
  12. Slick! Cookie sheets are a great idea. I painted my frame a few years ago as well, but had the engine out. Did you strip the old paint? I used stripper on the entire frame and it was an absolute nightmare! Did eventually get it down to the metal, but my rattle can job is not perfect, I suspect it could have used a few extra wash cycles to get all the chemical residue off. We had some heavy rain/humidity in the middle of my paint job which I don't think helped. Overall it has worked out though - nothing a few touch ups couldn't fix.
  13. I ride alone quite a bit on local-ish trails. I make sure the family knows where I am and keep my phone charged and protected. For longer trips I need to get a SPOT device. Aside from getting injured, breaking down is a concern too..
  14. You generally either get durable OR lightweight. Of course, there are more or less durable lightweight tents, but nearly all ultralight gear needs to be treated with care. I use a Big Agnes Fly Creek UL2 and it's exceptionally light. It's like unwrapping saran wrap when you unpack it, and it's delicate as far as tents go, but I've used it in the dead of winter, rain, sun and it's a great setup. Hyperlite Mountain Gear has some great gear - not cheap but tough and light. https://www.hyperlitemountaingear.com/ I use the 3400 Windrider pack for winter camping and it's very well-made. Their shelters come well recommended but I don't have personal experience with them. A simple tub, tarp & sleeping pad make for a lightweight, compact and cheap setup too.