Tekime

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Everything posted by Tekime

  1. Double check your cam alignment/cam chain, make sure it doesn't skip teeth on reassembly, maybe check cam chain guide tolerances while in there. Check for correct tolerances against the service manual for the ignition, coil, etc. Took me a long time to find the sweet spot kicking my DR over after a rebuild. Really needs a good kick, but pretty faithful once I found that spot. If you can't bump start I guess you could try putting it on a center stand, wrap a long ratchet strap around the rear wheel a bunch of times, have someone hold it steady and give it a good hard pull & run, lol
  2. Resistance is definitely a good sign of compression. Air filter and checking for any leaks are the next easy items to check off. I feel like the carb is the likely culprit given that it sat for a while. A good disassemble/cleaning with compressed air/speaker wire/carb cleaner is not too bad of a job but I'd set aside an evening if you haven't done one before! You have gotta be kidding me. THAT could have gone a lot worse
  3. Couldn't hurt to try bump-starting it. I'd start with the basics: check compression, clean/replace the air filter, check for air leaks, clean/rebuild the carb, check valve clearances. If you don't get anything with starter fluid you might want to start checking compression & valve clearances.
  4. Hnng... that color scheme is gorgeous
  5. Amazing find, super cool looking bikes too.
  6. Make all your adjustments once the bike has reached operating temp. This could be 15-20 minutes of idle or 5-10 minutes of hard riding. Rule out any air leaks (even tiny) around the carb boots and exhaust pipe. Try moving up one clip position on the carb, this helped a lot with my idle.
  7. Low compression + blue smoke sounds like toasted rings, but maybe there's something else going on.. can you roll/push in 2nd gear without a lot of resistance? Bad clutch/binding gears or something might cause it to stall when applying load if things won't move. Possibly a weak spark or bad timing, might not hurt to pop the valve cover and check for wear/damage to the cam/lobes/journals and make sure the cam timing is set correctly. I've read that you can add a teaspoon of oil through the spark plug hole and test compression again - if it goes up significantly you almost def have bad rings/scored cylinder. (I haven't actually tried this but it makes sense!) Have also read that a badly worn piston wrist pin can cause piston play that can create binding/damage rings (no firsthand experience here either luckily!) It seems unlikely to me that you would have this big of a problem from jetting/clip positions alone. In my experience, even going from a 127.5 main to a 145 just results in a richer mix, not falling on its face. If you've ruled out air leaks, fuel flow and 95% certain the carb is clean and working time to look elsewhere...
  8. Yeah, odo and engine. I don't know the models really well, but if the bike is a '92 that would mean the frame is a '92 right? So the odo/motor/other bits might have come off a donor bike? I guess the seller could answer all that lol Either way, in these parts you don't get a street legal DR in good shape for under $1k, seems like a good price.
  9. Compared to what? Other street-legal bikes in its class, or purpose built dirt bikes? I know my DR350 is a handful in some tight places, but it actually surprises me at what I've been able to negotiate.
  10. Indeed, unless they were transplants from the same bike, which seems quite possible. Not much detail available.
  11. Agreed, not a bad deal with estart and upgraded tank. Doesn't look like a basket case to me, actually looks pretty clean and listing says everything works. 23k miles is up there but if cared for it should have many miles left.
  12. Slick! Cookie sheets are a great idea. I painted my frame a few years ago as well, but had the engine out. Did you strip the old paint? I used stripper on the entire frame and it was an absolute nightmare! Did eventually get it down to the metal, but my rattle can job is not perfect, I suspect it could have used a few extra wash cycles to get all the chemical residue off. We had some heavy rain/humidity in the middle of my paint job which I don't think helped. Overall it has worked out though - nothing a few touch ups couldn't fix.
  13. I ride alone quite a bit on local-ish trails. I make sure the family knows where I am and keep my phone charged and protected. For longer trips I need to get a SPOT device. Aside from getting injured, breaking down is a concern too..
  14. You generally either get durable OR lightweight. Of course, there are more or less durable lightweight tents, but nearly all ultralight gear needs to be treated with care. I use a Big Agnes Fly Creek UL2 and it's exceptionally light. It's like unwrapping saran wrap when you unpack it, and it's delicate as far as tents go, but I've used it in the dead of winter, rain, sun and it's a great setup. Hyperlite Mountain Gear has some great gear - not cheap but tough and light. https://www.hyperlitemountaingear.com/ I use the 3400 Windrider pack for winter camping and it's very well-made. Their shelters come well recommended but I don't have personal experience with them. A simple tub, tarp & sleeping pad make for a lightweight, compact and cheap setup too.
  15. Yep right around there, I'll probably replace mine and swap my current carb to the "spare" bike eventually
  16. Can't argue with that, although sometimes I'm sure my bike is just in a bad mood! Low on oil and valve clearance getting out of spec have caused some struggles for me too. Just a theory, but I notice on the older carbs the flatslide gets worn, which I suspect might be letting some extra air in? Cleaning/rebuild don't do much about that. I'm trying to rebuild the carb on a pretty grimy spare bike now and the slide looks extremely worn. In fact the entire carb looks like it went to hell and back and both the vacuum ports on the sides have cavities in them from, well I have no idea how the metal itself corroded away, but I'm hoping it's still usable assuming I ever get the thing cleaned up.
  17. I'm not sure if valve clearance or the Scottoiler could affect mileage (kilometreage? ), but driving style definitely can. Higher idle, more revving, etc. could explain a little variation in consumption. Also when you switch to reserve isn't an exact science - I'd monitor exactly how much gas you use at the tank, then track mileage, then compare to how much you actually put in the tank. Just a few thoughts to throw out there! Either way you got me beat on my stock tank, lol. Mostly offroad riding for me and it guzzles fuel!
  18. Sure, if everyone's bike were in top condition and perfectly tuned, we wouldn't need the shenanigans. Lots of older bikes in varying conditions, aftermarket parts, etc. and most of us work with the time & gear we've got. Just based on my experience starting this thing on blazing hot days in the woods, I can get it started up pretty quickly if I prime using the above method. My bike is not in perfect condition or tune, but if all else fails of course it's worth trying.
  19. Absolutely gorgeous man! I've got a spare DR and thought seriously about going this route. Actually almost exactly this route! Would love to hear more about the parts you selected and how hard it was to get everything sorted. Tank mounting, seat, headlight, speedo, etc. Great work. The fact you have a surfboard attached to this beautiful beast pretty much elevates you to god-like status in my book haha. Of course here in Maine I'd need a snowboard mount, but hey..
  20. What year and model? There are a couple different carbs. Mine's the '90 dirt-only model with the TM33 pumper carb. They can be much harder to start when hot. Make sure the choke is off (pushed all the way in). Hold down the decomp lever and give it 8-10 good solid kicks. Then let go of the decomp lever so it stays in without holding it. Then slooowly kick it over until the decomp lever releases. Then let the kickstart return to near top position, slowly kick it over until you get resistance, let it return to top again then give it a good hard kick. If it doesn't start in a few more kicks, go back to the first step and kick it good with that decomp lever in to clear stuff out. Sometimes when it's really hot and hard to start, I turn the fuel petcock OFF and repeat the steps above. Once it's running I turn the fuel back on. It actually wants a little bit less fuel when it's hot. Reducing my idle speed helps sometimes when hot. Getting the idle air control screw set correctly is important too. Once hot, reduce idle until it's near stalling, then turn the idle control screw on the bottom of the carb in until the RPMs stop going up. If they don't go up, back the screw out. Then reduce idle until it's near stalling, and repeat the previous steps until you have the bike idling as low as possible with the idle control screw turn in far as you can. Should be around 1.5 turns out stock I think. Make sure to do this when the bike is HOT - after it's been running 10-15 minutes!
  21. Loud pop from the exhaust? It'll backfire when fuel builds up in the pipe. If the bike is hot I sometimes need to turn the idle adjuster down or it gets too much fuel to start, and keeps popping. Use the decompression and about ten good solid kicks to get fresh fuel in there. Then keep trying. Starting these up is an art form
  22. Chain, rear wheel bearing, shock linkage bearings, also if the kickstand is contacting the swingarm it can squeak. Check the easy stuff first. If you suspect rear wheel bearings first get it on a center stand and turn the wheel by hand to feel for resistance/squeaking. Then remove the wheel and turn the bearings by hand to feel for unusual resistance, scraping, squeaking, grinding, etc. Bearing should turn smooth, even and quiet.
  23. I got it working running the one yellow wire, and running all negatives on powered stuff back to the harness negative, didn't modify the stator at all and it worked fine. This was running everything off the battery and not using the stock headlight power. Ended up upgrading to a DR350S stator for more power and did basically the same thing, but with a DR350S VRR instead of the Trail Tech.
  24. I have a dual sport kit from Procycle mostly installed, a Trail Tech battery & speedo wired up, and now I need to hook up the stator to the regulator/rectifier for charging. The instructions say to wire the two yellow wires to the regulator/rectifier, but I've only got one yellow from the stator (single phase). Guessing I just wire up to one of the yellow wires on the regulator? Also, do I need to "float the ground" on this setup? What does that involve? I've read every post/article/instructions I can find on this and nothing specific to the DR350 dirt-only model and the Trail Tech battery/reg/rectifier setup. I think I've got the right idea but really don't want to mess something up.