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About rc64597

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  1. Hey all: After doing a ton of searching, I can't find an official list of parts that swap between the two Honda 650cc dirtbikes....so, here is a valid attempt to make one (there is a similar thread on 4strokes.com and bits elsewhere...I will try to compile all of it onto here. I own both a 2001 XR-R and a 1998 XR-L as you can see in my garage here on TT. I bought both bikes a few months ago. What I am doing is buying all new parts (aftermarket) for the XR650R...and swapping the OEM/existing XR-R parts onto my XR650L, improving both bikes with one purchase. I am strategically buying parts for the XR-R...ONLY IF the existing XR-R parts swap over the the XR-L. Hence, if the item is on this list, I KNOW they swap. If anyone knows which parts swap from XR650L to XR650R, and it makes even a lick of sense to do so (I'm thinking lighting/electric stuff)...please mention this! FWIW...let's keep other bikes out of this discussion (like swapping CRF, CR, NX650, XL, other XR)...I know many parts swap from other bikes, but this is only about the 650R and 650L. Parts that are 100% compatible between XR-R and XR-L *even if it requires some modification* XR650R Carburetor > XR650L: It swaps over. You may need to wiggle it around to fit...but it bolts up. The adapters are the same. The carb will need to be re-jetted most likely. I understand the best jetting to be: 65S slow/pilot and 165 main, HRC needle on 2nd slot from top XR650R complete front end > XR650L: It swaps over. There are many ways to go about this. Bottom line, you will likely need some bearings, spacers, stem modification, etc to make it work. This means you are unbolting the XR650R whole front end (wheel, hub, axle, forks, triple clamp, steering stem, etc and putting it on the XR650L frame. I'm sure you can make individual XR-R front end parts swap to XR650L...but I am too lazy to do all that research. Someone who has done it, please chime in! XR650R Front Fender > XR650L: It swaps over. As I recall, involves drilling out the bolt holes a little, and trimming the rear of the fender to clear the 650L frame. Maybe some washers or spacers. Don't remember. Just eyeball it up and rig accordingly. XR650L Speedometer/Odometer Unit > XR650R: It swaps over. The speedometer cable should hook right into the housing on the XR650R wheel. The only thing you will have to do is make some sort of bracket for the 650L speedometer on the XR650R...there is nowhere to put it in stock form. Easy swap...looks great. Mechanical speedo/odometer on XR650L is a great unit...simple, reliable and best yet...calibrated for the exact same size wheel. Drivechains: Both should be 108-112 link 520 O-Ring Chains. Of course they would interchange. Handlebar Bar Mounts: They swap over. Nothing else to say here. Tires: Both bikes use 21" front (I think they are 3.00-21 or 80/100-21) and 18" rear (I think 4.60-18 or 120/100-18) Parts that MAY be compatible, not 100% sure: Wheels? Rear Sprocket: Should be the same minus the bolt holes. Easy fix. Rear Fender? Exhaust Heat Shields Please chime in with your findings, if you have any to add!!!!
  2. Thanks for taking time to reply to this, gentlemen...much appreciated
  3. rc64597

    XR650R and XR650L: Testimony of Ownership

    LOL First and foremost...if you can get a KTM 530 EXC plated in your state...do it!!! I had a 2001 KTM 520 SX and that thing was sick. The only reason I sold it was the 4 speed transmission. I am looking to eventually add a KTM 520/525/530 EXC (street legal) to my lineup to get the light weight, big-bore, 6 speed transmission and USD forks... Why is the L tank whited out? Good question. I took the Acerbis tank off the bike, which was HEAVILY stained yellow from fuel. I sanded it, cleaned it with soft scrub w /bleach, and painted it with 7 layers of Krylon Fusion White Satin. Once it drys, I will add a fuel-resistant clear-coat to the tank exterior and mount my 1999 Factory Effex graphics. On the same token, I sanded and painted the headers (they were rusty and dirty...turned out to be an FMF pipe! Go figure. I simply did not have good pictures of the bike to post. Once the tank is done, I will take new pictures and post them. It's sheer laziness!
  4. I have both a 2001 XR650R and a 1998 XR650L. Am spending time/money on the XR-R to build a sweet machine, swapping the stock XR650R parts to the XR650L whenever I can. My next upgrade for the XR-R is an USD conversion. I already know what's involved in that. My question: What is needed to swap my entire XR650R front end (Wheel, rotor, forks, triple clamp, handlebars, levers and perches, etc) over to an XR650L? Custom/modified triple clamp? Tried to search but only found people swapping XR650R forks to XR650L...not the whole shabang. Thanks! Bob
  5. rc64597

    XR650R ONLY

    2001 Honda XR650R Bought 2 months ago for $3500. 11k miles. Many upgrades. Currently street legal and street-titled in MD (hard as heck to do) Many mods coming!
  6. rc64597

    Trying to set a price on my Big Red Pig.

    You may be better off to trade the bike for another bike...and then sell that bike. Sometimes bikes can be hard to sell with salvage titles....but it may be easier to trade for another bike with no money transaction...just a thought Another thought....buy another XR650L with valid street title...swap parts onto it...end up with a complete XR650L with valid title and another one with salvage title to sell cheap (maybe as a dirtbike)
  7. rc64597

    Baja Designs 900mah Wired Ni CD Battery

    works well rechargeable
  8. 1 review

    for baja designs dual sport kit rechargeable died quickly
  9. rc64597

    XR's Only

    protects my 15T sprocket from damage protects me from sprocket (shoelaces, anyone?)
  10. rc64597

    XR's Only

    1 review

    GENERAL INFORMATION Protects you and sprocket from each other and damage for 15T sprocket
  11. rc64597

    Honda OEM XR650L Chain Guard

    installed to protect chain/passengers and pass inspection
  12. rc64597

    Honda OEM XR650L Chain Guard

    1 review

    Honda OEM XR650L Chain Guard
  13. rc64597

    ProTaper 1 1/8" Bar Mount/Adaptor/Riser

    Works well I use this to mount my ProTaper Contour 1 1/8" fatbars
  14. 10 reviews

    PRODUCT DETAILS Do you want to run the big bars like the big boys? The Pro Taper Universal Solid Handlebar Mount Kit will allow you to upgrade from 7/8" bars to a 1 1/8" tapered bar at an economical price. Precision CNC machined aircraft grade aluminum assures a solid stylish mount for most bikes. Pro-Taper Universal Solid Handlebar Mount Kit adapts solid mounted triple clamp bar mounts from 7/8" to 1 1/8". CNC Precision Machined from aircraft grade aluminum. Kit will add 3/4" to the rise height of the handlebars. Does not include a pad.
  15. rc64597

    XR650R and XR650L: Testimony of Ownership

    2001 Honda XR650R See My Garage for a list of mods _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ As a Dirtbike: Excellent big-bore dirtbike, particularly in open spaces. Absolutely thrives at 90+MPH offroad. Suspension needs work for MX duty. As a commuter/street bike: Not really it's intended purpose Can be an EXCELLENT supermoto Street tires, taller gearing, bigger seat, anti-vibration mods, and tall handlebars necessary for street use Baja designs dual sport kit is a great start Needs better lighting Vibrates a good bit on the road...however, I have not attempted to diagnose the root of the vibrations Can run at 90-10MPH safely, I cruise at 75-80 Returns 50+ mpg with aftermarket carb, terrible 25-30MPG in stock form. As a true do-it-all dual sport: Setup properly, the XR650R can go anywhere. Makes a good street bike and better dirtbike Can ride on any surface with right tire/gearing choice Needs lighting help, dual-sport kit, etc to be a dual sport Engine Engine is an absolute monster. Delivers raw torque throughout RPM range, smoothly and without sudden hits. Can cruise up hills barely off-idle. Very reliable About 50HP in stock form, can crank out 60+ HP without engine mods (cam, piston) and still be reliable. Engine is best part of this bike Frame/Ergonomics: Aluminum frame Excellent ergonomics With CR-High Fatbars, ergos are great for a tall guy (I am 6'3 225 pounds) Handling is sharp Best Mods: SECURITY: Secure keyed-ignition, wheel locks, GPS tracking device, helmet locks, etc are all good ideas. The bike is worth nothing if some jackarse comes along and steals it...you will be out a bike and a way home. The bike comes stock from the factory with no keyed ignition. The baja designs unit is easy to steal...cut the wires behind the key lock, kick start the bike and go. Look at the XR650L's battery/wiring diagram/keyed ignition for an idea where to start. Title: Obtain a class MC STREET motorcycle title for your bike ASAP. Well worth it. Adds re-sale and insures you can ride it...anywhere! Oversized tall seat: allows for a TON more comfort on the road, also will allow passengers. I opted for the SeatConcepts ($160) tall/standard foam, GUTS Racing ($80) and Renazco ($350+) are other options. Handlebars: Toss the stock bars in the trash and get some that fit you. I opted for ProTaper Contour CR-High 1 1/8" Fatbars and ProTaper Bar Adaptor, for my height. Grips: Find some anti-vibration grips. I went with ProTaper Pillow Top grips. Oil: Run good oil in your bike. I chose Shell Rotella T 5W-40 Full Synthetic Diesel Oil. Extends oil change interval, bike runs cooler and smoother. Always replace oil filter, I use Honda OEM. Spark Plug: Always use a good spark plug. I use basic NGK plugs for $3 each. A nice NGK Iridium plug may be a good idea. Running the plug a heat range down (9 instead of 8) helps bike run cooler. Oil Temperature: Get an XR's Only Oil Temperature dipstick. Costs $40 and insures that you can visibly monitor oil temp at any time...I'm not going to waste my time warning anyone of what can happen if oil heats up too high... Valves: Upgrade valves or check them every 1k miles for spec. Passenger Pegs: Allows a passenger to ride. I went with Baja Designs Billet Pegs (clamp on swingarm) Carb: Re-jet carb at a minimum. If you have $700 to spend, get an FCR carb and sell the stocker on ebay. Edelbrock makes an alternative for about $400-500. Tires: Best case scenario, you have two sets of wheels, one with DOT street tires, one with knobbies. I went with DOT Shinko 244 knobs as a true 50/50 tire, because I am too lazy to swap wheels and ride mostly street anyways. Brake Rotors: you MUST upgrade to larger brake rotors for the street. Stock brakes are far too weak to be safe. Air Filter: Upgrade to a high-flow filter such as K&N Exhaust: Choose the exhaust of your choice. Stock pipe can be gutted to allow free flow. Please note that extra noise makes for an uncomfortable ride, yet safer. I went with stock pipe, removed all baffles, added fiberglass muffler packing, and added HRC tip. Stator: Re-wind stator to 200W+ or buy a re-wound stator, needed for extra lighting Keyed Ignition: Buy a keyed ignition that will kill current to bike if cut. Baja Designs unit...if you cut the wires, bike still starts and can be stolen. Subframe: Re-inforce stock subframe to allow for extra weight/passenger/cargo. Gearing: Choose gearing that fits your needs. Stock is 14/48. I run a 15/48 setup. it's easy to swap sprockets based on riding conditions. Chain/Sprocket guards: Protect yourself and passengers from a O-ring chain-turned-chainsaw. Engine Guard: Protect that VALUABLE engine from rocks and road debris Radiator Guard: Protect that radiator from punctures. Blown radiator = you are walking home. Radiator Fluid: ENGINE ICE is best. Everyone has there preference. Radiator Cap: Get a high-pressure radiator cap. Stock one is junk. Honda reccomends a Kawasaki cap. I think it is 1.6bar or something. Right foot peg: Check the bolts...these can get loose and the peg can fall off. Lighting: Big-ass off-road lights REALLY help with visibility at night. Brake Lights: Needs a better brake light. I installed an LED taillight off a Honda CBR right above the license plate...it activates and lights up when the rear or front brake is touched. Adds visibility to the back of the bike, especially the license plate. Blinkers: Add turn signals. Also, add flashing LED strips to hand guards for extra visibility. Ebay search this: Integrated LED Handguard Turn Signals. Thy flash when blinker is used...MUCH brighter. Speedometer/Odometer: Obviously, it needs one. There are a million options...everything from a bicycle speedometer, to a TrailTech Vapor, to a smartphone with a GPS Speedometer app. I use a basic digital bicycle speedometer, but, I think I will swap a mechanical XR650L speedometer onto mine. Tachometer: For under $30 you can buy an electronic tachometer off ebay and wire it in. Always good to know engine RPM. Mirrors: Whatever works for you. Make sure they do not vibrate so much that you can't see out of them. Baja Designs Kit Battery: The 900mah NiCad battery kinda sucks. You can custom-wire a real sealed lead-acid battery to the bike, mounting it beneath the seat, and get rid of the Baja Designs lighting crap. Bike does not need a battery to run, meaning, it still runs with a dead battery. The battery is there basically just to pass state inspections. When the battery dies, the lighting/blinkers can be very dim at traffic lights....will increase with a fresh battery or increased engine RPMs. Battery Tender: Pick up a Battery Tender Jr for $25 off ebay. Install the pigtails on your battery. Plug the battery into the Battery Tender any time the bike is not running to trickle-charge the battery. Front Fender: You can bolt on fenders off of many other bikes. Best bet is an XR400R front fender...bolts right up and is for a similar Honda bike. I use a 2005 CRF450R front fender. Others I know use CRF150 fenders, Yamaha WR250R fenders, KTM fenders, or Acerbis SuperMoto fender (allows better breathing for engine but suffers in off-road mud/debris protection). Worst case, you may need to drill new holes and find new bolts/spacers/washers, but you can make just about any fender work. Graphics: OEM graphics are excellent quality and look good. However, no graphics last forever. It was my opinion that the Factory Effex EVO 8 graphics look best. They are discontinued. I found a Chinese EVO 8 replica kit on ebay for $48 shipped...turns out to be an EXACT replica of the EVO 8, even has the Factory Effex logo. Plus it comes with fender and side cover graphics. Again, $48 shipped!!! (http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEAM-GRAPHICS-BACKGROUNDS-DECALS-FOR-HONDA-XR-650R-XR650R-2006-2007-2008-2009-/261506860872?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce3060748&vxp=mtr) Gas Tank: Stock tank is about 2 gallons. That will last you about 50 miles offroad. Aftermarket tanks are available from IMS, Clarke, Acerbis, etc from stock size up to about 7 gallons. I went with a Clarke 4.3 gallon tank for $229 shipped...because its the largest tank that allows you to still bolt on the stock Radiator Shrouds (I wanted those for graphics kit). This looks cool and extends the range by a hundred miles, at least. Bottom Line It is very rare to find an XR650R plated with a street title in Maryland. The MVA and State Police battle this big time. This is a big plus for re-sale, there is always a market for a rare beast like this. This bike is functionally superior to the XR650L in every way, set up properly, however, this costs a bunch of money in parts and time in labor to accomplish this. The XR-R behaves more like a dirtbike on the road than an XR650L. XR-R is snatchier than the smooth, boring XR650L. Acceleration is perfect Internal gearing is too low for highway use, fixed by sprockets You are faster 0-100 than almost anything on the road Insurance can be difficult to find, insurance payouts can be a battle if the insurance company assumes it's a stock dirtbike and not a heavily-modified street bike...