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About NCSteve

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    TT Bronze Member

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    North Carolina

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  1. NCSteve

    Chain lube test.

    With oring/xring chain I've found all that chain lube/wd40/cleaner mess unnecessary. I've been using silicone spray on bike chains for years and it works great. It cleans and displaces water, lubes and resists rust. I like Blaster Industrial the best for the chain, CRC HD from wally mart for the rest of the metal. Bike looks great, chain works great. Blaster is 3.99 at Lowes and CRC is 2.99 at malwart.
  2. NCSteve

    A bit aggravated (98 yz125)

    Nice wifey, but maybe she didn't order the correct carb for your bike. Lectron customer service is great. Just call them up and they should make it right.
  3. NCSteve

    Hurricane Graphics

    There were some 60th anniversary graphics kits available. A quick google search shows a few options still. Add some lightening bolts and #2 for the Hannah effect.
  4. Stating opinion as fact is a disservice to all. Both my Huskys love the Lectrons, so I love 'em too ­čśŹ I braaap just fine and haven't touched a jet in a few years. I've had 2 issues with 2 carbs in almost 4 years. One had the warping bowl issue which Lectron fixed for no cost, they also cleaned and polished the whole carb in and out and returned it to me in like new condition. The other was the seal on the choke failed. They insisted I send them the carb, charged me a reasonable price for the part and again cleaned and polished and like new when I got it back. I average 30 mpg on both bikes at race speed which means I can race a typical SE hare scramble on 2 gallons of fuel and do 3 laps on my practice loop on 1 gl. Both bikes start easy hot or cold, pull smooth and strong off the bottom through the mid and rev out fine. I can't find anything to complain about. Money well spent to me. cheers!
  5. Just bite the bullet and buy the parts. It's well worth it IMO. I ride and race 2 bikes with Lectrons. Once a year or so I just send them the carb and say please. They're US based, answer the phone and emails and the carbs work great. They send me bennies and give me discounts on every order at this point. Just call 'em up and be nice.
  6. NCSteve

    New project XL175, just shoot me.

    If you want to blow some $$ on it, check the Sudco catalog or call Lectron.
  7. NCSteve

    New project XL175, just shoot me.

    Great old bike! I had a '78, actually the (1st) wife's bike. I don't remember doing anything to it except change the oil and filter. She rode it around the island (Folly, SC) and I dogged it on a couple of sand lots. It had no balls and pitiful suspension, but was reliable as an anvil. It was near the top of her list when we split. GL with it
  8. NCSteve

    Best helmet money can buy

    Please do suggest any further corrections. I'm not claiming to be an expert, just speaking from my own experiences.
  9. NCSteve

    Best helmet money can buy

    True, but quality standards have dropped since most manufacturing has been outsourced to Asia. There are plenty of exceptions, just speaking generally. You're correct, both Shoei and Arai are still made in Japan. I could have sworn my last Arai was US made, but it's long gone. My comments are from my experience, so feel free to suggest any corrections you feel neccessary. No need to be a condescending dick about it though :)
  10. NCSteve

    Best helmet money can buy

    Sorry to say they're pretty much all made in China these days. Maybe Shoei, Arai and Bell top of the line are still US made. Maybe some Airoh and 6D are still ITA made, but I doubt it. A few years ago I bought a nice AGV AX-8 Evo. Was $399, on sale for $299 and I had a $100 gift certificate. Got the helmet expecting made in ITA and saw made in China. I sent an email complaining and AGV said everything for the Americas is make in chiny, EU market is/was still made in ITA. The AGV is a good helmet, no advanced safety features, but strong shell, lightweight and high quality materials. It has good ventilation too with closable brow vents, so I use it in the winter mostly. The Kalis are chiny made too. Def my fav helmet though. Strong, lightweight shell with excellent brain protection. The original/early models had finicky liner and trim, but that's been fixed. The ventilation is good enough for SE humid summers and too much for cold weather. I either tape over the brow vents or wear the AGV in winter. I had a strange crash last summer where I got ejected down a steep bank, landed on my back and hit my head hard. There was no damage to the helmet shell or liner and I didn't even have a headache. A month later I crashed really hard at speed, bruised and battered from ankle to shoulder. Got body slammed with the bike on top and hit my head very hard with the same helmet on. I had no head effects at all and the helmet liner still shows no damage. I did retire the helmet after that though. To find the deals on Kali and others just learn to dig thru the BS on the 'net. The last couple I got off Amazon in XS for @ $60, ordered a M liner for $20 and for @ $80 had some of the best brain protection available. Kali tech is similar to 6D for half the price. Next time I need a new helmet I plan to just pay up for a new Kali. cheers
  11. NCSteve

    Tubliss- Love/hate relationship

    Wow, 14 pages of Tubliss. About 10 pages ago I probably said something similar, but here goes anyway. I run Tubliss rears on both my race bikes and have not ever flatted or had any other issues. I'm in the SE mountains, but go down state and further a few times. Plenty of rock, sharp branch staubs and briars and not one flat in 3 years of riding and racing with Tubliss That said, I run Bridgestone standard tubes up front and haven't flatted those either. I run Metz 6days or Maxxis EN front and always a stiff sided rear. Overall fav rear is the IRC VE33, but old Metz MC4 was great on the 165 and quite a few others were ok on the 300. From the git I read the instructions and watched the cool chick on youtube and have had no prob's. My impression is most complainers can't follow instructions and/or complicate the process unnecessarily. The Tubliss system works great and everything else is BS, basically. In extreme conditions, Moab!, I'd run mouse. The improved traction, suspension action and ease of installation is obvious. Following the instructions and using the right tire is imperative. I've def got my money's worth from tubliss and will not go back to tubes in the rear. At some point soon I'll test the fronts too, but currently my setup works so not in a hurry to change it. cheers, NCSteve
  12. NCSteve

    2013 Husqvarna CR125 Maintenance Advice

    Does it run? Start easy and idle? Make sure it's not running lean before you twist her tail. I've got the same bike, but as a 165 and agree with shrub. They're very reliable and fun bike, even better as a 150 or 165. IMO, the stock carb sucks. It can be made to work, but it's way too picky about elevation and weather changes. There's a huge jetting thread at cafe husky. There's a sight glass on the clutch cover, add oil until it covers 3/4 of glass. I use full synthetic and change it every race or 10 hours. All the stock fluids should be replaced asap, if they haven't been already. It really depends on the history of the bike and what type of riding you do.
  13. NCSteve

    Gncc Amateur Class Question

    Not sure about the schoolboy class. At all the GNCC races I've been to everyone is very helpful and supportive. Just arrive early enough to ask for help at the registration tent/trailer. If you're pre-registering call or email your questions asap.
  14. NCSteve

    Official 2018 MXoN Smack Talk Thread

    Bullets kill Sharks unless the Shark strikes first
  15. NCSteve

    pussification of mxon

    I don't know about "faster than ever" but he's still faster than the rest of the mx1 class...except Herlings of course. I'm not sure that will be enough to beat Tomac at Red Bud though.