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About gavin500

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  1. gavin500

    poor performance/back firing

    have you cut the right grey wire? Before you take it back to the shop it is fully worth putting the jetting back to stock. What is your 'newly' installed sparkplug telling you? is it black, white, tanned? You make no mention of the carby needle, is that still at stock setting... Personally I think your running rich. before you take it back to the shop you can do yourself a favor by starting from the begining again - clean and reoil the air filter check the sparky, replace(or reseat in your case if it's new) return the carby to stock jetting(including air) + the needle, and eyeballing it's in good condition also eyeball your float needle still exists Kick it over and see if it works well. I take it you haven't gone to YZ timing or added flywheel weights yet.
  2. gavin500

    wr 400 cutting out

    If it was fine before, but now getting bad. First things first - put in a new spark plug clean and reoil your airfilter Try Taffy's suggestion as well. Has it got hotter were you live? Use one of your spare's kit main jets in going to a leaner jet.
  3. gavin500

    doing BK mod

    I wouldn't do the BK mod unless your carby's APJ is pumping gas beyond 2seconds after full throttle is reached. Get the timing of the squirt correct - yes. Cut the grey wire - A MUST Get rid of the throttle stop - A MUST Yank the snorkel out of your airbox lid - again a must BTW, if your experimenting with jetting get yourself a new sparky as well. Cause you'll need it down the track after running your bike in a rich condition for too long. But that's how you learn. I did the BK mod on my bike and found it put my jetting out. I may have needed a richer needle to do it justice. If you notice most people that have done the BK mod also have YZ timing. From memory YZ's don't have a accelertor pump. Just thoughts, don't have the time to confirm this though.
  4. gavin500

    Helmet cameras!

    oh, & also in relation to your question Chris about boxes, scrap the wooden box idea! There are plenty of companies that make indestructible light weight plastic boxes, not only that but are dust proof as well. Do a search on the net for them. If you need brand names just call your local camera dealer or camping equipment shop.
  5. gavin500

    Helmet cameras!

    don't forget the external camera needs power... as well as the camcorder.
  6. gavin500

    Why no EFI for dirtbikes

    Image's from the site http://www.eatmydirt.com.au 2001 WR426 with fuel injection.
  7. gavin500

    Suspension Help - Please!

    I've got my front and rear set at 14 all over. Huge improvement. Then I've gone +/-1 or 2 over the course of the day. There is a fine line between comfort and wash outs.
  8. gavin500

    faulty spark plug/cracked valve?

    Tried a new sparkplug - problem fixed. Not only that but the new bog that I felt from after putting in the PAS has also gone. And I cleaned that other sucker sparkplug good too. The bike has only done 2000kms. After a 15min ride and checking the new sparkplug, it's very black, and that's WITH stock jetting. Yes the 170MJ does give more power, but without a non stock exhuast I'm going to have to stick to a 165 or even a 160 the way that sp looked. To cure the decelleration backfire I have opted to stay with the 42PJ and change the PAJ to 65. Appose to going to a 45PJ with a 75PAJ. The bike has always had more power with the FS at 1turn appose to 2turns etc... which was needed to cure the backfiring. Having the 65PAJ allows me to have the FS at 1turn. It's all pointing to that maybe I need to try a 160 this coming weekend. This will make the sp look better, give yet more response, but at what power cost... We will see. Current config ref. Australia, NSW, 600metres, Temp 30'C. 165MJ 200MAJ 42PJ 65PAJ Needle DRQ Pos#3 FS 1turn Stock exhuast, air filter, snorkel taken off airbox lid.
  9. gavin500

    faulty spark plug/cracked valve?

    was mj 170 maj 200 pj 45 paj 95 needle DRQ pos#3 The bike was running the best it has every been with this setup till what ever happened. Gone back to stock - mj 165 maj 200 pj 42 paj 75 needle DRQ pos#3 I'll slap a new sparky in it this weekend.
  10. After finally getting my bike jetted right, after a 1hr ride my 00 WR400 started spluttering as if it was out of fuel. Switched over to reserve, no joy. Thus I thought dirty fuel in the carby. Only it lasted forever afterwards(20mins). The change was very much like a flick of a switch, appose to a gradual getting worse. In it's current state it basically idles fine, goes at full throttle fine, goes full throttle under load fine(thus maybe not a valve). Anything above 1/8 to 1/4throttle the bike splutters and farts as if it's running rich to running lean. Knowing this seems to be a needle position problem I moved the needle pos up 1 then 2up - no luck, then went the otherway - again no luck. The clincher is that it only starts to happen once the bike is warmed up to normal operating temperator. When cold to before normal operation temp - 1 to 3mins the bike will run 100% fine. What's happening here? I pulled the carby totally appart and cleaned it, went back to stock jetting etc settings, cleaned the spark plug which was black(checking the spark plug gap), all this - went well on the road till after 1min riding and then started actting up again... Noted that my previous jetting must have been too rich, but do I really need to purchase a new sparkplug to prove it is or isn't a fouling sparkplug type of problem.
  11. gavin500

    Jumbo Fuel Tank

    I heard there is a 25Litre fuel tank out now for the XR650, yet don't know who makes it. How big is that in gallons? Well above 5! Does anyone know who make's this?
  12. gavin500

    Corrosion in plug hole

    if yamaha put the stand on the righthand side instead of the left, this problem would be solved. I use to tape the hole every wash but after changing the spark plug at 5000kms I still had rust and muck, thus don't bother anymore. Many people say to start the bike up after a wash but I always don't due to using high pressure hose and my air filter always get's quite wet. I should cover it, but it means taking the seat off. With my new bike I just spray it with WD40 while the bike is lent over and the water comes out. Also after time, another area to watch out is the throttle grip getting corrosion from many washes between it and the handle bar. But this is all like oiling your chain. I know a bloke who doesn't oil his chain at all and it seems to last near as long as my chain that I use to oil. So now instead of spending money on chain oil I just spray the chain with WD40 after each wash and it's been fine. No more excess oil going on your nicely washed back wheel/rim after each ride!
  13. gavin500

    Off-Idle Hesitation

    make sure your pilot system is clean. You may have some air filter oil sluge in your pilot air jet/system. By that, remove both your pilot jet and pilot air jet and give them and what they screw into a blast of compressed air or carby cleaner.
  14. gavin500

    Jetting Qs

    (smaller PAJ = richer condition, while larger PAJ = leaner condition) Jim Bob, I don’t know your setup but I would raise the clip position and then if bogging still occurs go for a leaner MJ. Doing this will make things leaner giving more throttle snap. Go too lean and you start to feel like the bike doesn’t have the same amount of power as it did before. This has fixed bog felt when riding and then snapping on the throttle for more power. I don’t believe it will fix bog experienced from nil to 1/4throttle while idling, this is more to do with the accelerator pump. This nil to 1/4throttle bog is what I’m experiencing at the moment. As for jetting to get this type of bog out I did the following of which had no effect in fixing it. Keep in mind though I may have a stuffed pilot circuit, as explained earlier. So the following maybe worthless info. PJ of 42, tried the PAS at ¼, ½, ¾, & 1turn. Turned the FS accordingly, bog never disappeared. PJ of 45, tried the PAS at ½, 5/8, 6/8, 7/8, & 1 turn. Turned the FS accordingly, bog still there but was better at 1turn. PJ of 45, tried original PAJ of 75. Bog still there. Tonight I’ll disconnect the APJ and prove to myself if the pilot circuit is stuffed or it is the APJ causing the problem, if this is the case… BK mod here we come. Reasoning for thinking about the AP is that I pulled it apart and cleaned it at the same time as changing from a PAJ to PAS. One thing at a time right? For reference, I have the following setup – Stock air filter + exhaust Snorkel taken out of airbox lid, lid still on! MJ 170 (Stock MJ 165) MAJ 200 (Stock MAJ 200) PJ 45 (Stock PJ 42) PAS 7/8turns<95> (Stock PAJ.1 75) PAJ2 90 (Stock PAJ.2 90) SJ 65 (Stock SJ 65) Needle DRQ Pos#3 (Stock DRQ Pos#4) FS 1&3/4turns (Stock FS 1&1/2 turns) Changing settings at home is ok for ironing out bad bugs but when it comes down to refining, with out a dyno your not in much luck. I found riding in the street is not the same as riding in the bush. So I took the bike out to my fav area and spent a full day changing settings even though I felt the bike was right just to ‘prove’ it was right. The above is what I say is a sweet ride for my bike.
  15. gavin500

    Jetting Qs

    my local dealer got it for me, they got it from Adelaide of all places. I suspect they got it from "Show & Go" - 08 83760333 (www.showandgo.com.au) As they are the australian distributor for keihin carby's. Since you'll be in sydney, try Nardek - 02 99752650 as they advertise they stock keihin carby's/parts. Be aware I'm not recommending these companies, due to having not dealt with them personally, I'm merely just pointing you in the right direction to get what you want. At the risk of restarting the flame on this subject I would NOT recommend that you get a PAS. I would only get one if your into racing and thus peak performance at all times is a must. Of course to achive this you need to invest time, how much time invested is guaged by experience. The normal weekend warrior needs only to look at the work of the above dedicated people in this flame to see what they need. I say this cause the PAS cost's $45, while PAJs cost $13. Other than your stock 75 I would get a 85 and 95 or 100. The difference of 5 either way is not noticable and is trimed in the end via the FS. Personally I believe I might have stuffed my pilot circuit after screwing the PAS in too tight(a 1/4turn from lightly seated). If you were to get one, of which comes with no instructions, as much as the PAJ is tightly seated - don't do the same with the PAS. Once it is lightly seated STOP! The problem I have is now I get bog once I snap the throttle on from idle, if the rev's are 1/8 above idle all is fine. At the time of putting the PAS in I also inspected and cleaned the accelerator pump. Before hand I was getting a dribble out of the APJ, but after cleaning it sprays out fuel with great distance similar to a water pistol. So I suspect 1. I've have crushed a tube or something on the pilot circuit, or 2. now that the APJ is working at full strength I'm getting this famous bog that everyone is talking about.(never got it before though). Can anyone advise me if screwing the PAS in too much will or won't damage things? As for the PAS afterwards, it has a light silver ring around the cone end of which fits into the pilot air circuit's hole.