borgwarner

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About borgwarner

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  1. Thing is, there seem to bee two ways of measuring tyres. Some measure the carcass and some the knobs. So a 120 could easily be wider than a 140. I heard that the difference is between MX and Enduro tyres so that a 120 MX could be quite similar to a 140 MX but who knows? @filterx I am really looking forward to your test results on the Mitas!
  2. That sounds like fun I think 145$ for a rear tyre is just not worth it. The XT754 is a good tyre especially in very loose (sand) and soft terrain but it doesn't do miracles which I would expect at this price point. I just searched for the 525/505 they are not very expensive here at around 55€ but only available in 110/90-18 which is considerably smaller than my usual 140/80-18 which makes it a bit hard to compare as it has such a small footprint. Or is this a different measurement system?
  3. I've never used one. Currently I really like the 754 Mitas Green with no or very little pressure.
  4. Ok then I would say its a Meteler Six Days. fits also the pattern better than the Mitas
  5. Do not buy Alpinestars. I had Gloves and pants and they were quite bad, falling apart in not time. Boots ok, but this was long ago.
  6. I would have guessed GT216 too,because it was missing the pattern of the Mitas EF07. But it Probably is a Mitas
  7. TLD held up ok and the best so far. Acerbis gear is also in very good ratio between price and durability. Never had a pant of them, but protection gear and jersey held up very good. Fox and JPracing were the worst. Thor was ok, not as good as TLD, but repairable when stitches went bad.(Impact rig and knee protection)
  8. Maybe I should give it a try, but tyres last forever around here (my last rear had something like 35h on it and was still usable when I changed it) and I really don't like to throw stuff away which is still good. So some people are in the "pleasant" situation to be able to test a new tyre every 10h or so, because they ride sharp rocks ect. but I always search for an excuse to buy a new one That's why I am reluctant to try new stuff ...
  9. I was wearing OTB pants too some years ago. It happened to me on a very narrow trail where left of me was a very steep wall and right of me was a very steep gully. When I put my foot down on the right side (mistake) the trouser catched my right footpeg and I nearly went down this gully. I sold it afterwards and I'm a happy camper since then without OTB pants.
  10. I will try the 216 Shinko. Not much risk there I guess. But the 505 doesn't look like it will work in wet and muddy conditions. The 525 looks better to me. MotoZ will not come near my KTM's rims any more
  11. Shinko and MotoZ are available, but I don't know someone who uses them. I once tested a MotoZ (tractionator or something like that) it was horrible. It maybe would have been a good tyre for hot dry and sharp rocks but then again that's not what we have here. There is one hybrid tyre which people seem to like over here, http://www.maxxis.de/catalog/trialmaxx-m7319-m7320 . But not many use them. I think they all have the problem of getting clogged in muddy conditions. Currently my favourite is the Mitas XT754 for soft sandy not too fast stuff. I run it usually at 0,3bar or even without air and tubliss for maximum traction. I run the GT 216 HBN 90/90. I wanted to have the fatty, but it was not available at the time I looked for it.
  12. The GT 216 is the best Tyre for my riding I've ever used. It is so neutral, you just forget that it's there. The front grip is awesome especially in ultra steep and super soft woods stuff. could not believe it.
  13. Have a look here too:
  14. Yes and no. As far as I've heard they just bought the pattern of a tyre. Which is/was the GT216 which is now sold under the Shino name. Someone said it was produced by shinko all the time. GT was just a marketing company as this guy said they never produced the tires themselves.
  15. You actually one can't be too "aggressive" with a head mod IMO if you keep the compression equal. If you do it yourself, which usually means just cutting the sealing surfaces, I would suggest a squish gap of 1,00 mm (this is for later style heads from 2013 onwards) this will keep compression in check and still get most of the advantages. If you choose to go to somone who knows his way around, you could go nearer 1% of the stroke. Then you have to deepen the bowl to get enough volume. Also (but I haven't tested this) I would use a as sharp edge as possible on the edge from squish to bowl.