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DutchTerror

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About DutchTerror

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    Illinois
  1. Mine is an '08, which I bought used with a FMF PC4. It had no programmer when I bought it, but I added the FMF programmer as well. AIS/EXUP is now removed and flapper is gone as well. Mine still has an issue where it will stall/bog when cold and heavier on the throttle. My solution is to just let the bike warm up a bit more before riding off, and/or going easy on the throttle for a bit. From my searching and reading, it's a common issue, and most have dealt with it the same way. Once the bike is warm, it's completely fine. Just for reference, I'm at ~600' elevation and these are my FMF settings. (CO mod has never been touched.) Green 1.5 Yellow 2.5 Red 1.0 GR/BL 8.0 YL/BL 4.0 RD/BL 4.5
  2. Another option for that rusty gas tank: http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11784 Good luck!
  3. 0 comments

    Artoo!
  4. Your location says you're in NJ, but you're asking about the WR125R? I thought those were only available in Europe?
  5. I figured that may be the case. The saving for a FCR begins.
  6. I dug back into the carb again last night. Blew out all the orifices and jets with carb cleaner again. I did notice that the emulsifier tube under the pilot jet is mangled. I can blast cleaner through it into the carb body, but the slot in it is so badly mangled, there is no way I can remove it from the carb body. Despite the fact I can blow cleaner through it, I still call it suspect. At this point, I'm tempted to swap to a different model of carb completely, or try to find an un-molested PHF36 to rebuild. I don't see anywhere else that could be causing a vacuum leak. There aren't vacuum lines running anywhere, the carb mount seems to be in very good condition, I'm at a loss.
  7. With idle set to 1850 and adjustment turned all the way in, the bike will not idle. Bike runs fine when adjusted out this far and at WOT, so probably not float level. I'm thinking there may be another passage in the carb or in the bowl that needs examining.
  8. I'm stumped on the idle circuit on the PHF36 on my 2000 Husky TE-410. Stock jetting according to the manual should be a 170 main and a 60 pilot. That's exactly what I found when I opened it up. Here is my tuning procedure. Warm up bike. Turn up idle with adjustment screw. Back out mix screw unyil the engine reaches maximum RPM. Turn idle down a bit and make fine adjustments to mix screw. Adjust idle to normal idle RPM. When tuning the mixture screw, I have to open it up 5+ turns. I bought some additional pilot sizes, and even with a 66 pilot, I have to back out the mix screw to 5 turns. I checked in the carb body, no washers or o-rings stuck in there. I even bought a complete new mixture screw from Guzzino.com, thinking there may be an issue with mine. The one I received was a very different profile and wouldn't even begin to thread in. Any help or advice or help is greatly appreciated.
  9. Looks like an intake adapter boot like those on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Intake-Yellow-Adapter-Boot-Connector-Coupler-3-x-2-5-/181501555338?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a4255f28a&vxp=mtr
  10. Well, glad to hear it's working. As I said, mine likes to be good and warm first, and endurokids comments about breaking the clutch plates free is probably good advice as well.
  11. It's the same exact setup as the 610. Do you mean the actuating rod, internally?
  12. Which oil are you using? I've got Mobil 1 15w50 in mine now. It had Bel-Ray Thumper (15w50) when I got it, and it felt good with that oil. I was afraid there may have been some odd additive in the Mobil 1, but I've used it in my other wet clutch bikes with no issue. While you have it apart, mic the clutch plates and steels to know where you are at in the lifespan.
  13. Was the bike fully warmed up before you tried to take off? Did you cycle the clutch lever ~10 times before engaging first gear? I'm not an expert here, as I only recently bought my 2000 TE-410. I've noticed my clutch grabs very abruptly when not yet warm. It does seem to help if I actuate the clutch about 10 times while the bike is running before engaging first. Looking forward to more responses here as I'm learning the subtle nuances of this bike as well. Kent
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