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About KnotAPro

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  1. Dang! Topic Originator (SquareAce) "dad" with all these oils, lubricants, tire tools and air pressure suggestions you might be able to create a patent of some sort of slimy mung tongue captain hook handle peter pan goo with tinker bell sprinkle dust self inflating tire-tube combination. Jeez! I hope you wear safety glasses and a face shield plus a chest protector and hearing protection, maybe stand behind a Nuclear Blast Shield if you go the 80psi route, please pay attention to safety precautions with tire installations. Leave the knobbies in your face to getting run over by other riders when you fall on the track. I think your (topic) is going to get a grand prize free trip from TT on the subject of tire installation issues.
  2. Really ... What I have come to understand is most likely this father is concerned about the wheel could cause an incident that his child could get hurt and mom(s) always worry more than dad(s) at least that seems to be the majority of what I hear with families who are into the MX World but this dad might be on the same page as his wife/mother of the child. I am always amazed of how these little kids aren't scared to go as fast as they can through the horrifying sections of the track that I admit scare me. I guess it's the "I gotta go to work on Monday" that prevents me from hauling ballz' through it. I feel like most fails occur at low speeds and maybe that small amount of the tire could add to a slip. Personally I've been working on being a little kid again and just take the hits as they come. Gaining confidence in every skill set I've put to practice through the past few months. I just went to a race at MP County Line in Fountain, FL and saw so many younger riders falling because they haven't developed the MX riding skills it takes to stay upright. I stood beside spectators and talked about what we were seeing. I explained it like this. Most of the kids falling looked like they have family with wide open fields to ride/practice in but no one is teaching them standing, sitting, elbows up, cornering skills and gripping the bike with their legs. I described all the wobbling in the sandy sections accounts to "chicken winging" the bike. They weren't hugging the bike with their legs. I ain't a Pro by any stretch of the imagination. But I watched hours upon hours of MX Training videos on You-Tube before buying a dirt bike. I lesson to the Super-cross and Motocross analyst about how to ride/race on dirt. Heck my first death defying wreck was choosing to jump into the woods instead of hitting a steel gate. I didn't have my feet on the pegs with brand new MX boots on. I wasn't hitting my rear brake at all at nearly 55 mph. I just bought the bike and was on my 2nd hour break-in process with a $7500 off the showroom floor RMZ450. I was coming up on this gate with mounds of dirt beside the gate to keep intruders out of an Military Aviation Airfield. It was either lay the bike down or fly into the woods. I kissed my ass goodbye and turned the throttle wide open and rode the bike into the embankment, started to jump through some thickets and end up 6 feet off the ground sideways stuck in the branches. The bike slowly fell to the ground and with some martial art skills I laid the bike down as softly as I could. Laid there and waited to feel the pain of broken ribs, legs, pierced arms from the branches. Luckily I felt nothing of the sort, the bike had almost zero damage. Right then and there it was a choice. I was 55 years old. Ride it or sale it. 5 years later I am still alive and with a mega amount of luck with all the other crashes, some severe. I am loving it all. Now for the colorful language. I was in the Navy for 20+ years as an engineer and most of us described even our most technical advanced equipment as that F'ing Piece of Sch*t. If you can imagine burping and farting at the same time to entertain each other with sea stories of international hilarity. Heck! at the dinner table if we weren't talking about puking, screwing and drinking booze. Any regular conversation surely wasn't the norm unless it started that way but it always seemed to end normally with some gross emetic version of trying to get a laugh or run someone off. Damn! another on the soapbox journal written. Sorry! bottom line we all need to be concerned with our bikes' maintenance and repairs, watch out for each other, we have a saying in the military "if you see something, say something". Leave the rich pricks to themselves especially the ones with a stick up their azz. I've received looks from some people with all their money at the track at a grassroots level of racing "to go away", f(--)ck them. They can kiss my toot hole {{{(.)}}} Opps! blame that on the Navy. 20 years in and 50 years to get out. I'm on year 19. Anyway dad, keep up the good work, reach for perfection and your son will follow in your footsteps hopefully. Please! excuse the explicit dubatchary readoric. Misspelled to death I know. Heck! I feel like I sometimes make up my own words.
  3. opps! might get myself thumped off thumpertalk, but it is a H3LL of a lot less than the "F" Bombs I've see slapped on here.
  4. did you use cheap baby powder on the tube, forget that question, it doesn't matter. I am just waiting for someone to tell you to urinate on it. ur pee pee is warm, add some soap to that
  5. I get that with most of my new tire installations. All these posted suggestions are good. Basically I ride them just as if I don't care or have a lick of sense. Eventually they work themselves out of the bind. I would be worried if I felt the wheel wobble but I only ride on MX type tracks so I don't feel it. I've never had a tire come apart or give me any serious issues or maybe I don't have enough feeling in my feet, legs or when my hinny is seated but I am 60 years old and everything feels wobbly and it all hurts anyhow. Not trying to be a Smart AZZ, just saying what I've experienced and haven't had a performance issue with that sort of binding behind the rim bead area. Your picture wasn't all the wide. Is it where the rim-lock holds the tire? I didn't read your whole topic but what I did read I didn't see that questioned or the suggestion of checking that out, sch*t that might have been my cause, dang. I guess at my age "lack of attention to detail" is slipping. Again, not trying to be a Smarty Pants. Good luck!
  6. KnotAPro

    Anywhere to ride near Jacksonville?

    NOTE: Please! excuse any spelling and grammar mistakes. Wow! I wished I had seen this earlier. But for the next time you're in the Jacksonville area. There is an MX type facility. I am not sure they have any trails if that's what type of riding you desire. WW Motocross Park, not sure if they have a Facebook page but here is a website for them. WWmotox.com. (904)-318-4096 is the phone number posted on Yahoo. They are on the 2019 Lucas Oil Pro Motocross Series Schedule too, it is in June 2019 I believe. $50 is the least expensive ticket I think. Personally I'll just watch it on TV or U-Tube I am personally reluctant to ride there because of my age and skill level plus blind jump tracks I don't like to ride at... If you are closer to or in Alabama. We ride at RMX in Newton. AL, ride/race at GAMX in Andalusia, AL, ride/race at Crossbones MX Ranch in Billingsley, AL and MM = Monster Mountain MX Park in Tallassee, AL (I only race there during the May and September Holiday Weekend) with the SEVMX Series. There are other Florida MX facilities but I've only been to one in Fountain, FL it is called CL = MP County Line. MM & CL are huge to me and they are for experienced (really good) riders or people who ride aggressively. I don't at age 60 plus I only started riding dirt bikes at age 55. It is fun and I am hooked on it. I've owned several dirt bikes since 2014. Three showroom floor bikes: 2013 RMZ450, 2017 RMZ250 and 2017 KLX140G. Used bikes: 2002 RM125 & 2002 RM250, 2002 CR125 and 2004 RMZ250. I've owned the 2002 RM125 twice now, currently own it and love it more than any other bike I've had in my stable. Our next scheduled race event is at Crossbones March 9th non-series warm-up. Then Crossbones March 23rd its a ALMX Series Race. April is GAMX. But I won't go on with this 2019 Schedule I participate in but you and other people who are looking for racing or just riding facilities in the southeast Alabama area. The GAMX and Crossbones Facebook pages have Series Schedules posted and all the other interests most people look for on MX Track' Facebook pages. One more thing the tracks I ride and race at are what I call safer tracks to have fun at. Should I say they have a lesser possibility to getting jumped on by another rider (no blind jumps) around every other corner is more like it. Basically, I've seen too many foot-pegs fly by my head..... screw that!!!! Sorry! I was in the Navy for 20+ years and I could have wrote more of an explicit set of words to describe how I feel about someone feeling like I am in the way. BTW! if you or any of your buddies are a Military VET, First Responder VET and Firefighter VET and Law Enforcement VET or active duty, reservist and/or retired from any of these. There is a American Hero Class moto you can sign up for and it is free to race in that Class. At GAMX and Crossbones, race for free, now that's a bonus at any track.
  7. KnotAPro

    KTM 300 running HORRIBLE

    NOTE: I am not here to lecture, because I can only suggest an addition to self diagnosing your problem. Please! excuse any spelling and grammar mistake. I didn't proof read this either. Thumper Talk is an awesome place to gain knowledge especially with your topic. I love it when all these 2-stroke guys comment on issues. Man! I absolutely enjoyed the amount of helpful info you were presented with. KTM Owners really get into keeping their bikes in primo condition. They are expensive a H3LL to buy off the showroom floor but I see 98% of them keeping up with the maintenance and using only OEM Parts too. I wish I had their pay-check. But that's all on me at age 60 with the lack of financial success path I travelled and still riding and racing within my limited budget. Anyway who cares about me..... but I will BRAAAP along... or wing-ding it... I ride both 4-stroke and 2-stroke dirt bikes currently. Another great discussion with 2-Stroke engines. I've read this one all the way through and there are a lot of awesome suggestions to help resolve or find the solution(s). One thing I see on most posts on TT is that the person who starts these "I need help" with an issue. It seems most people rarely put what year model, and model i.e. XCE SX or whatever of the dirt bike. Sometimes they forget to put what brand of the bike i.e. Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki etc. Not that you didn't. But someone did ask what Year your bike was. One other thing is I rarely see is someone stating they were following the OEM Shop Manual. I see other people pointing out to find one is a great suggestion or quoting a page out of their repair publication, even showing a photo image of the from a manual. I see your OEM PUB on E-bay for $35 but I'm not sure it is for your bike because of information missing to pin-point what book goes with your bike. Doesn't the Aftermarket Carb people provide a guide with the sale of the Lectron Carb? Too me if you buy a bike off the original owner that person should be providing the OEM Manual and other resources for the products they put on the bike. But if you are the 3 and above owner "good luck with that". Every single dirt bike I've bought, I buy 2 OEM Manuals and/or an equivalent. Then whoever purchases my bikes gets those Publication(s). I believe I saw an ad when I was looking at swapping the OEM Carb to that brand of aftermarket unit for one of me previous 2-strokes. Lectron says they provide technical support. I personally chose not to go with it because of most of the reviews. Plus, There are so many people who buy up-grades in High Performance products but fail to do additional mods that help make sure that product will perform at peak operation. There are tons of videos that help people tune their KTM 2-Stroke carbs on You-Tube. It seem Lectron has some posted too. But obtaining an OEM Manual for your particular dirt bike is the best avenue to getting the answers for 98% of trouble shooting issues with your high performance racing machine. I really liked the person's suggestion if you had it, was to re-install the original KTM Carb. Lectron is profound about how there is "no" jetting to worry about but people fail to read the instructions of proper maintenance with their (Lectron Carb). Don't get me wrong about taking care of your bike with all the maintenance but KTM is awesome if the book says run your 2-stroke piston for 100 hours between slapping in a new one. And as someone suggested the Power Valve maintenance. Really 100 hours between refreshing it with a new piston "Holli-Molli". Sorry! for writing a book, obviously I ain't got nothing better to do. Sorry! if I stepped on your ding-o-ling, I wasn't trying too if you feel that way. I am only here to suggest getting an OEM Manual if you don't have one and maybe taking that Lectron off and leaving it off if it continues to malfunction. Those 300cc 2-strokes that KTM builds are incredible bikes to own. I wish you success and pride in your days of ownership and riding it.
  8. KnotAPro

    yz250 flywheel puller sizing

    I'd use the RockymountainATVMC aftermarket parts/tools section to verify the 27mm but the earlier reply should be correct. That person is absolutely correct about which way it is threaded on plus the rust comment could be true. I can tell you this, an OEM Shop Manual or equivalent is the best thing to have when you are working on your bike(s). If you plan on keeping any bike long enough to do the maintenance or do your own repairs I can't express the ideal setting of having a manual to do all things. Most publications are available at R/M new or Ebay new and used for most dirt bikes. $55 or less can save you time and money. To me they are the same plus manufactures have put many hours into their manuals so you are getting the best instructions possible. Then you have old timers and people on different threads, blogs, here on TT, etc to help you with stuff you don't understand. I'm not here to step on anyone's toes or hurt their feelings with knowledge. Heck! I jump on TT to gain wisdom. But when I read a TT thread of someone asking if a air filter is necessary. And some person writes just run it. I have to throw that way of thinking out the window. NOT Smart but it is an opinion but it will cost so much money to fix doing shortcuts. Shoot! if I was rich I'd still run out of money doing it right. But I'd rather run out of money doing it right than have my dirt bike not running or breaking in mid-air by not following the correct way of doing things. Again, I am not here to knock down a personal opinion or hurt anyone's feelings. Good Luck!!!
  9. KnotAPro

    05 YZ125 won’t pull hard

    Yes! I write too much but I try to be thorough when dabbling in topics I am keen too. I'd rather be over the top than leave so much to question about what I try to put out. Sorry! Some old timer parts seller on e-bay called me a "novelist". He took the time to look up my phone number on the internet too. He left a message and when I called him back, it got weird. I like my weird conversations to be face to face. And the guy got ridiculous in my opinion with his communication on e-bay's messaging too. I don't waste my life going back and forth with people, everyone has an opinion. Some people you can learn from and others well it can be a waste. I know I can sit down and just shot the sch*t but I tell people in advance I am doing so. Anyway back to this 125cc 2-stroke dirt throwing machine. At 140 LBS that bike would be totally awesome. Heck! I didn't make it out of junior high-school at 140. Barely hit it when I graduated the 12th grade. I've got friends who own the YZ125 older models. They are wide open pinned out racing machines. Again, I love my RM125 for too many reasons. I'd rather ride/race it than any other bike I've owned. When and if you want to go with an aftermarket clutch system, maybe try. I can tell you this with that clutch. I found out when I shopped for all brand new clutch parts and I am an OEM kind of guy but when I built this last engine I put a complete Pro-X clutch system in it because of the cost. Your PRO-X part numbers below: 17.2295 Clutch Basket, you have to use your OEM Gear off your OEM Basket (instructions in box) 16.CPS22093 Clutch Plates and Friction Disks with springs I couldn't find the OE replacement Pro-X number for the Pressure Plate or Clutch Hub but use a brand new OEM Pressure Plate and Clutch Hub. Maybe you can do the research for those parts and someone might have them in PRO-X. One thing in advance your Yamaha parts cost way more than the RM125 Pro-X parts. But I called the Riders Discount INC at 1-866-931-6644 and asked for a military discount or I told them I used to be in the parts retail business. Both are true. They gave me excellent prices. Just for asking. Hint, parts sales people only make money and bonuses off selling parts. Any day is a good day to call especially at the end of a pay period or month like in the car sales business, been there too. But I have had zero problems with the complete clutch system from Pro-X and it is a heck of a lot less expensive than the over priced ReKluse. Maybe not so much with Hinson, Bullet, Wiseco or other aftermarket brands. That is if you shop till you drop. I guess they all can be found at a good cost. I haven't had any slippage or miss shifts or smelled any overheating smell. I run the crap out of my clutches on all my bikes. I will have to say I am looking forward to a complete inspection of all my new OEM brand and aftermarket parts at 15 hours. I am starting to put together another engine with OEM Transmission plus all Wiseco Crankshaft and Piston Kit with another Pro-X set up for the clutch in it. But this engine will have a V-force3 Reed Valve included with carb jetting for the hotter summer months. Man, I hope you have a absolute blast with that 125 2-Stroke. BTW! me at 250+LBS when the power-band hits in 3rd on this 2002 RM125 it pulls but it ain't scary and I love that.
  10. KnotAPro

    05 YZ125 won’t pull hard

    If you want more initial grab or torque coming off the start line or coming out of a turn bump to a higher number tooth. I personally like a 51T. Your bike in 6th gear doesn't normally pull anyway "I think" but the 50 or 51 tooth gives me more of what I need with my RM125. I rarely get to 5th or 6th gear on the tracks I ride/race at on any bikes I've ever owned. At RMX in Newton Alabama I have two areas of the track I can reach 6th gear but like you I like the pull. I have to keep popping my clutch lever to get what I like to feel. Is it good for my clutch? Shoot! a $100 clutch disc set every now and then who cares right... I have a fresh brand new OEM Engine I built for my bike. Basically there might be 5 parts that aren't new in that engine. What I've learned about Yamaha is there is a process that has to be done as someone pointed out in a response to your topic. A timing mark that coincides with TDC. I loaned my Dial Indicator to a fellow rider/racer who needed it several times. HF sells an adequate dial indicator, its worth the money and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg like professional precision tools cost. But if you are a machinist you know that already. Kind of wished I picked up some precision tools while I was in the Navy. There were times when they would replace tools and discard the old into the sea, what a waste or unknowingly they would make it to someones' home "if you know what I mean", not that I have any tools from the Navy. Yes! Sir! get a 12t for the front and 51t for the rear, (remember: when replacing sprockets / it is wise to buy a new chain) .... update your clutch plates and friction discs. I believe you will find a happy medium you desire. Just remember if you weigh as much as I do, that 125cc 2-Stroke ain't gonna pull. I'd say if you want pull bump up to a 4-stroke RMZ450 or any other 450cc dirt bike or KTM350 if you can afford one. They are heavy at 244 LBS to handle but you will get all the pull you can handle. Just make sure you are sitting on the gas cap when you throttle up. You'll be at 12 o'clock in the first 3 gears on a 450. The biggest suggestion I can make is buy a OEM Manual. Half of your tuning questions are answered in a manual. I watch You-Tube videos till my eyes bleed. I have two OEM Manuals for all the dirt bikes I've ever owned. One for the shop and the other stays in my truck. With a lack of memory it was hard to know when and if I put a manual in my truck or brought it back to the shop. E-bay has manuals for less money most of the time. Or RockymountianATVMC.com = R/M sells OEM Manual. Shoot! if don't have account with them get one. They price match and give you 5% back in Bonus Cash to spend later on 98% of your purchased items. But I heard if you don't live in the USA, R/M might not sale items to your country. I've made thousands of dollar off R/M. I look at the other on-line stores and if they show a better price R/M has a Price Match Policy that explains the deal. I've got friends who use other sites and I show them the difference and they pop themselves in the forehead about how much money they could have saved. I admit I spend a lot of money maintaining my bikes but I do it within a budget. Good luck on trying different sprocket sizes and try not to worry about a 125's pull, work on riding skills at lower speeds. We all can haul-butt in a straight line, it's the turns where you beat the competitor. I like my Suzuki's because they turn better than most of my friends bike. I had a 2002 Honda CR125 that turn really good too. But I couldn't get OEM Parts for it so I sold it for 1000 bucks after I pull nearly 3K in it. But with the way people know how I take care of my bike, they sale quick and you get two sets of wheels with a sale. Plus all the leftover OEM Parts I haven't installed too. But I will never sale my RM125. It is the second time I've owned it. My 2017 Suzuki RMZ250 I will sale in a couple of years for my pay-off or I'd sale it now for that. But I owe well more than it books for. Sorry! for rambling, I don't anything else to do while I wait for customers to come in. So ask all the questions you want. I know tricks of the trade for a lot of mechanical stuff. I went to Trade School for motorcycle technology in 1977 and did 20+ years in the NAVY as an engineer plus I went to automotive repair Trade School too. But I am an old school kind of guy when it comes to motorcycles and vehicles. And I have a case of C.R.S. half the time but I will try my best to get you an answer because I have good friends in the MX Life. I hope I answered your Tooth question....
  11. KnotAPro

    Dirt bikers of South Alabama

    Well, I am not sure anyone is still reading this topic. The 2019 MX Local Tracks are holding races on the following dates: County Line MX: 17 FEB 19 Sunday Crossbones MX Ranch: 09 MARCH 19 & 23 MARCH 19 both are Saturday Races. Green Acres MX Park: 21 APRIL 19 Sunday Monster Mountain MX Park: Holiday Weekend- Two days in MAY 2019 SEVMX Series. Saturday the 25th "Grass Race" and Sunday 26th on the Vintage GP Track. Crossbones MX Ranch: 22 June 2019 Saturday Crossbones MX Ranch: 24 AUG 19 Saturday Monster Mountain MX Park: Holiday Weekend- Two Days 31st of August and 01 SEPT 2019. Saturday the 31st "Grass Race" and Sunday the 1st of September Vintage GP Track. Monster Mountain MX Park: 15th of September, Sunday on the BIG TRACK, huge racing event for sure. Hundreds of Bikes and so many different Classes are racing. OCTOBER 2019 I will be going Out-of-State to Tennessee. Rocky River Farms, Dunlap. TN .... October 19th & 20th 2019 Saturday and Sunday SEVMX Series. """"GRASS RACE"""" on Saturday and Sunday. This track in on a cattle farm. It is pretty darn big. There are SEVMX Series Videos on You-tube with arial drone feeds. I am so looking forward to going to this event. I love the grass racing, no intimidation with flying jumps, huge ruts and I can race against guys my age. I bought a 2002 RM125 that I refurbished to the best my money can afford. Did all the work in my shop. I love this bike. There is a 125cc 2-stroke Open Class that normally is part of the Racing Program/Motos at the ALMS Series and GGC Series. I personally don't race at County Line MX Track and Monster Mountain MX Track but I go to watch the racing there. BTW! this is not the full schedule. Crossbone's Facebook Page has the full ALMS Series Schedule and SEVMX has it's own internet site it posts its schedule on.
  12. KnotAPro

    05 YZ125 won’t pull hard

    Now this is a really good thread/blog/discussion. Sounds like a bunch of knowledgeable YZ fans. The clutch issue "test" was an education for me, thanks to the person who wrote that. Great info to pass on at the track. Set the "Timing" comments are excellent guidelines, always have a OEM Manual present when doing repairs/rebuilds and maintenance. Watch You-Tube videos help too but the manual is of utmost importance. The right tools is next in line for all things engine. Your gear selection is more for low end power or pull you called it. There are several U-Tube vids to watch on how that works/helps. Stock for a 2005 YZ125 is 12/49. If you have a 48T for rear sprocket that is for long straights speeds, not for MX type tracks. Bump up your teeth number for trail/track riding. I run a 51T because the tracks I ride at have no long straightaways to really speak of. It's all in reference to ratio of the engine's transmission turning the back wheel again, the You-Tube vids can explain gearing. Basically the engine's transmission turns multiple times compared to 48T - 51T sprockets. It takes longer to get to high speed with a 48Tooth sprocket but you will have higher top-end speeds with it. More "torque" off the corner/turn with a 51Tooth but your bike taps out on top-end speed with more teeth. Just be careful running long distances at high speeds at peak REV's. I've heard of 2-stroke engines destroying themselves running it for prolonged periods/distances at high rev's. In other words (Open field high speed runs are not good for 2-strokes). I had a RM250 that melted the lower "big" bearing on the crankshaft. I love high speed and that pull you talked about also. Maybe my issue that day was other things like 32:1 fuel mixture or other internal issues caused it, but my rebuild was strong but I got rid of that 2002 RM250 as fast as I could after reading more about the bog issue I had with that bike. I traded it for a 4-stroke RMZ250 and the guy tore the RM250 down to sell parts on E-bay & Facebook. That RM250 qualified as a P.O.S. in my book. I ride Suzuki's. I love the Yamaha's and KTM's but wouldn't own a Kawasaki 2-stroke unless someone gave me one. I do not like their engine designs. I ride/race in Southern Alabama at age 60. We have several races coming up starting the 9th of March at a track called Crossbones MX Ranch in Billingsley, Alabama. I love the 'grass race' we run in the SEVMX Series at Monster Mountain during the May and September Holiday Weekends. If you live in the Tri-State area and you are reading this: it is a blast to be there and race. Vintage Bikes and Vintage Riders plus modern bikes and younger riders, kids and women/moms. Saturday's is the "Grass Race" then on Sunday it's on a Vintage GP Track. I will be racing in the 125cc 2-Stroke Class and the Modern Bike Class on my RMZ250 within my age appropriate group. I'm not sure I've suggested anything that might help you but I wish I knew someone in my area that's close had a empty field to ride on. We have mega farm land but few young people ride on the families land anymore. I guess video games have taken the place of outside activities. No neighborhood football street games or going up to the school baseball field or outside basketball courts being used by teens lately. Shoot! I like to show them what a ex-athlete at 60 years old can do. So I will just stick to my dirt bike and keep passing on Dirt Bike Motorcycle information I get off here. Good luck with your choices and I hope you get you top-speed pull issue figured out.
  13. KnotAPro

    Hi please help someone rm250

    Inside the casing is what is called a stamp code cast or raised letter/number system, like something close to 1H-37F. I'm not sure by what pictures I can find either. I can tell you this. If it is a 2002 RM250 get rid of it as fast as you can. Suzuki and all its engineers could not get rid of the bog. I owned one for a few months and it had a bog. It would haul the mail (badazz) fast then bog unexpectedly. One time it shut off in mid-air and you know the landing got uncomfortable. Luckily I only ate a small amount of dirt but my left eye area of my helmet was packed full of dirt. As all yours and other people conversing with you the RM250's schematics and/or parts listing differ between K1/K2 then K3/K4/K5/K6 then another set of casing listing for later model. Really what I suggest is finding the casing alphanumeric stamp code and go from there. Most old timers in the business of parts providers should be of good help with it. Shoot! if the oil drain plug hole isn't striped out and the rest of the casings aren't cracked to death (use liquid metal) and patch those areas up and run it. At least until you buy new casing or e-bay an older set. Heck spend another $1000 and buy a parts bike if you can afford it. In the USA we have graigslist, but I have no clue where you are from other than someone using the word "mate" meaning friend. Sch*t in the south where I live in the U.S. people call each other Cuz. I ain't got no cousins. Or they call me bro'. I have one brother and he lives over a thousand miles away but I don't mind I just go with the flow. As long as they don't call me MotherF^qqker we are good. Anyway back to your casing dilemma, check that casing code inside of your casing set and you might get lucky finding what year model or multi-year models covered with that particular code. Basically it worked for me. I have a 2002 RM125 that I bought the last casing Suzuki had in the world "brand new" but with that code inside mine I came across an e-bay listing that showed the same code in a 2006 model. I found out that my 36F code matched multi-year RM125's. So if I decide to buy a second brand new casing set I know how to research the Suzuki OEM Part # 11301-bla bla bla and order it. But I tell ya what those RM250's could and will catch my old 2013 RMZ450 with ease. A 2007 RM250 2-stroke can smother my 2017 RMZ250 with mounds of dirt with the right person on the RM250 any day. I hope what little advice I can give might help solve your year model question, I am sure there are plenty of RM250 2001 through 2006 owners out there who might be reading you TT subject who hopefully has recently tore down their engine and can tell you their stamp code. I wish you lots of luck....
  14. KnotAPro

    Does anyone know what the heck this is called ???

    Spending money is like spending time. Benjamin Franklin said "money is time and time is money". I looked at E-bay. I don't know the year model of your DRZ but I see a brand new OEM Part listed for $77. I'm not sure I'm of any help but there are quit a few suggestions. You come across as an old school repair it kind of person. It is almost like those days are shortly becoming over with how the modern bikes are built. I personally have my own way of modifying parts too, just as some have suggested. Just remember OEM Manufacturing is that Suzuki spent big bucks developing the parts on your bike. Did they make it better each year? I love Suzuki and one reason why is they make inter-changeable parts between year model bikes of the same i.e. DRZ's. Your OEM Part # is on 2000-2016 year model bikes. What do you do with all the suggestions, is up to you. Like most people who could be stuck in the pyridine of not changing to resolve the issue of just buying it new and save time. Or just the opposite: stay in a pyridine of spending all the time to save money. That's E-bay Item number is: #231928776420 I am not here to upset any feelings just trying to help!
  15. KnotAPro

    To rebuild or not to rebuild

    Wow! mega advice with this thread for sure. I think the best advice is. If you have the money and it might save you huge dollars later anyway. Rebuild the engine, especially the top-end. Then you know what to expect. If you are capable, do the whole job as much as possible by your own hands, then you'd really know what to expect. Top advice is like others might have already said. Buy a OEM Manual. They are worth every dollar. I buy two for all my bikes. One for the shop and the other I keep in my truck for at the track. Big advice: clean every single piece. And as for buying a tool that helps with piston installation. BUX Tool, You-tube video and I believe the guy has a 1-800 number. I talked to him and he was a down to earth well spoken man. That tool took all the struggle out of that part of the engine rebuild for me. I personally bought OEM Parts for my engine. I also bought Wiseco products and HotRod stuff too. I bought a Wossner Piston Kit. Basically I got tired of reading all the reviews and decided to do my own study. If you just want to have a crankshaft rebuild. I suggest using Mr. Crankshaft out of KY. He has a 1-800 too. Great price. If you want to re-sleeve a cylinder or have it re-plated Ken O'Conner Racing out of some up north state. I've viewed his site many time and his prices are reasonable. He answers e-mail and has a phone number to call too. He has videos on You-Tube that help in other areas of MX Bikes. Good luck...