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About BCRider

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    TT Silver Member

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    British Columbia
  1. BCRider

    1994 DR 350 rear brake help!

    If the fluid in the rear brake system has never been touched it may well have become gelled from absorbing enough moisture from the air. I've worked on two really old bikes of roughly this sort of age which did that to me. You can strip the master and caliper down and simply clean everything but chances are you'll also need to replace the seals in the caliper which will have gotten really hard and likely as not the piston itself will have some corrosion which will require replacement or the corroded areas will rub against the seals and allow the new fluid to weep past the seal. But you'll find out what the situation is when you strip it all down.
  2. BCRider

    dr350 stalling when going through deep puddles

    If it's not a line issue which the T mod will fix then it's highly likely that your spark lead has a crack in the plug boot or in the line itself. If you can't make the bike quite from holding the tubes in the cup of water throw it "in disgust" at the spark plug boot and lead and see if that makes it quit.
  3. BCRider

    Carb Virgins Read This!

    It's been my experience that very few of the screws on older Japanese bikes are Phillips. Instead they are the JIS cross point which is a different shape of slot. So if you find that your phillips screw driver does not fit snugly and with no play while still fully seating then you need to get a set of JIS screwdrivers or hex shank bits for your multi driver. The first rule of success for getting the screws out is that the drive MUST fit snuggly and deeply with NO play. If you can wiggle it around and it has some rotational play it is not the correct tip. Phillips drivers wear out badly with use as well. Consider them as expendable. Faced with a first time carb takedown a new set of the proper cross point drivers, be they JIS or Phillips, is a wise investment. If some screws are VERY stubborn and if you can bet at the back side of the casting to support the block with the end of a metal rod so it acts like an anvil you can tap the end of the screwdriver with some firm taps to very slightly crack the screw loose. Then you should be able to turn it out by hand. Note that you MUST use the END of the rod so that it can't just bend. You want it to be a rigid backing to support the casting. And do not tap the end of the driver without such support. The metal used in the body is easily shattered. But done with care and thought it can save a screw that would otherwise strip out the cross point. And when you tighten the screws back in they do NOT need to be as tight as what it took to get them out. The zinc in the pot metal alloy tends to corrode and lock to the steel screws. So first off coating the threads in grease or never seize is a good idea so they'll come out more easily next time. Second is to use the correct torque. General tables for 4 mm screws suggests a mere 1.6 to 2.0 N-m or just 14 to 17 inch-lbs. Even a skinny armed 10 year old can do that one handed on a regular screw driver. For 5 mm screws it's 3.2 to 4 N-m or 28 to 35 inch-lbs. Any adult that works on their own bike can easily do that one handed without leaving marks from the grip in their palm.. So resist that urge to make life hard on yourself later on. The screws are not supposed to be as tight as they become after a few years in contact with the zinc alloy of the main bodies.
  4. BCRider

    new toy now we need some help

    NICE SCORE! If you can't find a new stand on Ebay or similar look at fixing up the one you have with some new tubing for the leg. The stands are just basic mild steel tube with some bits welded on for the end pad and spring anchor. If its a vacuum petcock you'll probably want to look at switching it in time. Mine failed and flooded raw gas into the intake. Fourtunetly it did this in the garage and there wasn't much gas in the tank at the time so the puddle it made wasn't TOO big. Had to drain the oil along with a goodly amount of gas from the cylinder and cases though. It's the diaphragm which typically fails from age. If your Keihin is running well you can just do the jetting and needle changes as found in some tuneing threads around here. The Keihin may not deliver quite the power that the Mikuni does but some folks find the Keihin to be more ridable. A local riding buddy switched his back to the Keihin after riding my bike. His was more sporty but I found the power deliver to be a bit too switch like. So a Mikuni isn't always for everyone. There's some good threads you'll find from a "Search" about starting tricks and procedures. With the right tricks I can generally get my own bike started within 3 kicks even on the worst winter day. Often it's running after one or two. Only rarely does my "choke and prime" procedure require more than 3 kicks. My "choke and prime" trick is to put the choke on and then to pull in the compression release lever part way just enough to let me kick the engine through with just a slight resistance but far enough out that I can definetly feel some compression. I do this for about 8 to 10 easy strokes and then turn on the key, run the kick lever around until the compression release snaps out and then about a 1/5 stroke more. Then it's a nice strong and fast kick with a good follow thru so the lever pretty much CLACKS! against the lower stop. The trick is that by only holding the compression release partway open during the priming so I can feel the compression a bit I'm getting a better pumping action to draw the choked gas rich mixture into the cylinder. I found that if I held the release all the way in I just wasn't getting any decent pumping action. Others will have some variations on this method and it's worth reading all of them and then find which works for your bike.
  5. BCRider

    Dr 350 se elect power loss

    I find that I need to use second gear. First just locks up the rear as soon as I let out the clutch. Even with second I need to time the clutch release with a drop into the saddle to load up the rear tire to keep it from skidding.
  6. BCRider

    just purchased a 1998 dr350

    Actually the labelling is NOT a farce. If you try to use many of the current car oils in some high powered sport bikes you WILL find the clutch slipping under high power levels. To keep the clutch lever effort as low as practical on such bikes they are running with just a little over the minimum possible pressure for the clutch to work. It's just that the lowly ol' DR's are not that fancy or high powered so they happen to be able to use car oils with no issues.
  7. BCRider

    Teaching someone how to ride ?

    First off are they totally comfortable and capable when riding a mountain bicycle? How are they with the bicycle over some typical trail rides? If they can handle themselves OK on a bicycle in such a setting then at least they know how to properly steer a single track vehicle. That's a big first step. If they fail on this aspect then it's time to start by teaching them to ride a bicycle first. Impress on them how to counter steer for accuracy of steering and how to move on the bike to weight shift correctly in a way similar to how you ride on a motorcycle with some asjustment made for the small saddle on bicycles. Yeah, the bicycle doesn't need to be ridden that way but it's easier to do such drills on a bicycle than a motorcycle for the first session at least just to get the idea. From there it's just a case of getting to learn the motorcycle specific controls. And yeah, I'd have to suggest that a race MX bike likely isn't the best first option. A more casual trail bike would help. Clutching will come with time but a good first step is to set the idle just a little higher than normal. Then have them do starting drills where they ease out the clutch to the friction point where they can just feel and hear the engine begin to slow. Then add in a nice progressive roll of the throttle while at the same time easing the clutch out. If they keep overrevving it then start them with just some blipping drills on the throttle. Teach them to blip and hold small amounts instead of zinging it to the sky each time. Impress on them that proper throttle control is essential to riding well. THey need to learn to do things smoothly and progressively. If they "just don't get it" it's likely because they believe that everthing needs to be done in an "all or nothing" sort of manner just like in video games. If they are like that you need to bust that bad habit pronto or they'll never get it.
  8. BCRider

    White frost on oil inspection window?

    If all you ever do is short rides in cool weather the oil may remain milky from the blowby condensation. If this happens it's not a bad idea to cover up some of the oil cooler to let the oil warm up more and boil away this moisture within the duration of your usual riding. Just keep in mind that you've got a cover on the cooler and to remove it for hot spells of weather or for more aggresive rides. A long hard ride will get rid of it for the moment but it'll be back with the next short or casual ride. Hence my suggestion to make up some sort of oil cooler cover. The milkiness indicates that your oil isn't getting hot enough soon enough for the style of rides you mostly do.
  9. BCRider

    just purchased a 1998 dr350

    Another car oil user here as well. My old 91 needed oil badly one day when I realized that I didn't have any motorcycle oil I used some 10-30 so I could at least "limp" to work the next day and get some motorcycle oil on the way home. Well, the clutch did fine even with full power in any gear. I fully realize that this would likely not be the case on bikes with more power or with specific clutches. But the DR350 is one bike that is OK with most car oils with their slippery additives. I've used nothing but the excess stock of 10-30 I had stacked up which I couldn't use in my new car since I found this out. For casual city errands it's working out fine.
  10. BCRider

    Dr350 idle problems

    If it starts up without any choke and then runs rough and dies when hot then likely your idle pilot screw is out way too far. Try screwing it in all the way and run the bike from warm. Alter the idle speed to keep it running at 1500. Now blip the throttle and see how it returns to idle. If it just drops down and maybe goes low for a moment and then comes back up then it's still rich and there's something big time wrong with your carb internals. What it SHOULD do is hang at about 2500 for a moment or two and then slowly fall back to the 1500 rpm set idle speed. That little hang time in the revs is what says it's slightly lean. So turn the pilot screw out about a 1/2 turn at a time until it drops smoothly down to the idle speed with no lean hang. At this point you can play with it in 1/8 turns to a max of about 1/2 a turn away from this setting to achieve the best pull away response that doesn't have any sign of hesitation. But don't stray more than a 1/2 turn from this point. Or at least make sure you counted how far out the screw is to get rid of the lean hang without running into a rich sag and return. If you can't get it to operate like this then you've got some grunge in the carb or it was previously given a ham fisted jetting kit job. To fix that you'll need to play or have someone knowledgable play with the jetting and needle positions to fix first the top end, then the mid range and finally with those two points fixed you can play around with the idle mix screw. But they all interact. So the main jet/full throttle operation needs to be spot on before you can work with the needle position and size for the midrange and that has to be good before you play with the idle.
  11. BCRider

    "Motarding" a second set of wheels for the street.

    Bridgestone BT-45's are another option. For the street they stick like glue and have a pattern that should give a goodly lifespan. I'm running BT-45's on my CRF100 mini road racing bike and they are sticking at angles that would shock a lot of folks and I'm not even pushing them that hard. They last for 3 years and then I replace them because I'm more worried about the rubber drying out and getting hard than I am about the wear. Even at 3 years of racing and track days for about 20 days a season they still look like new in terms of tread depth. The tires on my DR are now officially 4 years old. They are fine for the street but I would not want to try a track day with them at this point. I'll likely replace them with the BT45's if or when I do this front end fixup.
  12. BCRider

    "Motarding" a second set of wheels for the street.

    Now THAT would lower the front enough that I'd start to worry about wobbles. Done in concert with a jump to a 17 on the rear the change to the angle and trail wouldn't be quite as serious.
  13. BCRider

    "Motarding" a second set of wheels for the street.

    Well, I didn't want to spend a heap of money on this conversion so going for a front and rear conversion set is out of the question. I've also really enjoyed it with the present 110 wide 18 inch rear and 19 wide 21 inch front. It's worked out well even for some local motard track days. The Avon tires I put on it (AM21 and Super Venom, sadly no longer on their offerings I see) stuck like glue and come to think of it the bike felt nice with them even when laid over hard. And the narrowness was only a bit of an issue since the engine doesn't have the sort of serious power needed to require truly fat tires. So the idea was to keep the rear and go for a slightly smaller front to drop the steering about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch but not go crazy. Doing this the impact on the speedometer would be minimal. At the same time a slightly fatter 100 front would give the bike a little more of a flat track look while making for a slightly wider contact patch. But you raise some interesting observations about tires drzoomn. I may just lay down until the feeling goes away and stick to the 21 inch front. In the meantime the Buchanan spokes option is there.
  14. A while back I got a second set of wheels so I could have a set of knobbies and a set of smoothies for my DR, (a 350 as it happens). The RM250 front that I got as the second wheel for that end required dissassembly so I could lathe the hub to allow for the speedometer drive. Not a big deal in the planning stages, just relace once done.... Nope. The old spokes and nipples were locked in place as though welded and even penetrating oil soaking in for a week and using heat from a torch would not allow the nipples to bust loose. So in the end I just cut about 10 or 12 of them to allow the wheel to come apart. In the meantime I ordered up a spoke set through TT and figured I had it dialed. Well, I would have if I had not started thinking about the idea of a 19 inch front. The key here is that I don't want to go to the trouble of a whole 17 inch conversion. Besides, it won't fit the rear anyway. So the stock 18 inch rim at the back and a 19 inch up front carrying a 100/90-19 sounds like a nice idea to drop the front about 5/8 inch and get a slightly bigger front tire contact patch. Along with this I'd shop around for a motard rotor conversion for the RM hub. But the issue is that I need to find a spoke kit to do this. Any suggestions on where to get such a beast from?
  15. BCRider

    F'd up my dr350 carb...Please help!

    I'd say you're rich on the idle if it can start and run decently without the enrichener button being pulled out (it's not a choke in the classic sense). Until you get your hand adjustable screw an option for adjusting the stock screw is to use a flat blade hex screwdriver bit. I've gotten to where I carry one around in my tail bag for the DR. I alter the mix one flat at a time to make it run sweetly. Around here it needs roughly a "two flats" change from summer to winter. That's about 1/3 a turn of course, just to confirm. Turn it in about 1/6 turn (1 flat) at a time until it pulls away crisply at small throttle openings. But stop before you can notice an RPM "hang time" when you blip it at idle in neutral. If it hangs high instead of a nice smooth drop to idle then it's a hair lean. When it's rich you'll find it seems to bog and bobble during a low throttle opening pull away.