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About blainerides

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  1. I'm hoping to round up a few more fresh opinions on spark plugs. Any wisdom is appreciated. See my first post for pictures of the current plug. The spark plug the PO had in there (which is still the current plug) is a NGK DPR9Z. I bought a new NGK stock plug (DPR8Z), but haven't put it in, yet. I JUST had a new piston and rings installed, and I have completely rebuilt the carb (with the proper jetting, this time) since starting this thread. It has a big bore kit (77mm = 277cc), and may or may not have a modified crankshaft. I have no proof of this, but the PO claimed this was a 305cc engine, which is only possible with a modified crankshaft. Having no interest in stripping the engine down any further than the cylinder, whether it's "just" a 277cc or in fact 305cc displacement will just have to remain a mystery. Any tips on proper plug for a big bore kit? This didn't help me. It's not bone stock...obviously. So do I go for an 8...or a 7??? What does "loads up" mean?
  2. Cylinder walls are ok, but WILL be getting a fresh hone.
  3. I need to get a new 77mm piston and rings, any suggestions on brand? This is a JE. Could get another one of these, or an XRs Only, or...?
  4. Hey guys. How is the speedometer/odometer cable supposed to work? How does it hook up and physically work? I've looked at the service manual and I swear I'm not missing any parts down at the hub, but there's also an odd gap /free space. It hasn't worked since the PO replaced it with a used one after crashing into a tree. Anyone have any experience futzing with it? The connection at the dash looks perfect; it must be something at the hub end.
  5. I will definitely have to play around with the Supertrapp discs a bit. Will have all my parts here in a few days to rebuild the carburetor. When you say remove the snorkel, what do you mean, exactly? Where do I stop? I've seen some folks on here drill 1" holes and put in plastic caps filled with porous foam, and I've seen others just hack the entire air box apart. I mean, as long as there's an air filter in place and you're not fording 36" deep rivers, I guess more exposure to the atmosphere can only be a good thing, as long as the bike's getting enough fuel from the larger jets and enough back pressure at the exhaust, eh? Do I have the logic down? I suppose I'd like a pointer from you. What do you think - you seem to know your stuff.
  6. The last photo (above) is actually of the genuine Honda shop manual, but it's not very helpful. I took a photo of the page. Was looking for some help from someone who HAS taken the lowers off. Not sure what special knowledge (or tools) are required...
  7. So, what does that involve, if you're correct? Release the 6lbs of air pressure at the top, release the fork boot clamps, and then...?
  8. Just curious how difficult it is to replace the fork boots on the XR250s I have a 1992 XR250L, and a pair of new Fly Racing part # 28-9932 blue fork boots I want to put on. Not real clear on what I'm getting myself into, based on the Honda Service Manual disassembly breakdown. Do the entire lower fork legs come off? Are new seals REQUIRED? What about measuring fork oil levels and crap like that? Any tips? Forks work great/don't want to go crazy, but want to put on the new boots if it's not too hard. With those and a new seat cover, she'll look a lot younger than her 24 years
  9. Sorry, I wasn't very clear on that "nipple". I meant the nipple on the front of the air box, left side of the rubber boot that connects the air box to the carb. From the factory, Honda has that crankcase vapor collector feeding both to the one-way drain hose that drops out the bottom of the bike, AND back into the carb via the air box, UNDER the air filter (to burn it off/minimize what stacks up in the drain tube). Obviously if you remove that hose going to the carb, like I did, you'd be sucking in unfiltered air to the carb. I plugged THAT up. Not any nipples on the carb. Sorry for the confusion. Got the new gasket on there. OEM Honda. It is much more "quality" feeling than whatever the PO had on there after doing the big bore kit. The old one was "tin-y" feeling. Like metal. It had no cracks, but felt thinner and "cheap". The OEM one was SLIGHTLY thicker, and just felt more like a gasket, than a sheet of metal stamped out. I used a fresh flat razor blade to scrape both mating surfaces of all remnants of oil/mud/gunk, skipped the RTV stuff, and torqued it down. Should be all good, now.
  10. The inside is clean as a whistle, except for whatever that rust-y looking stuff is under the top cover. I'll be soaking that today in some carb cleaner, and I guess try a thin bead of RTV gasket and see if it works for now. Gotta find a new gasket for long-term, though. What about that hole where the arrow is pointing to, filled with dirt?
  11. Grey spark plug is okay, right? From what I found on the internet, the 9 plug that the PO out in there (and I took out to inspect 2 or 3 weeks ago) is an ideal color. It's definitely A BIT lean, but mostly at idle. I think once I get the new #40 slow jet and #130 (up from #128) in the carburetor, I should be sitting pretty. Curious what people think about HOW to put on the new head cover gasket. Should I rub some clean 20w50 motor oil on both sides before installing? Obviously I know to thoroughly and flawlessly remove all remnants the old gasket. I will use a brand new razor blade scraper for this. What about a THIN bead of RTV gasket/sealant on one (or both?) sides? I have the Honda shop manual (it's downstairs in my car) but haven't looked to see what it says (IF it even says anything other than just use a new gasket if you disassemble the head cover) but I'm curious what experience others have had. Do you just plop the new gasket on there and torque down, or does it need either a coating of oil or RTV? Also, the head cover bolts were kind of hard to get out / a little bit seized. Should I put a layer of anti-seize on there? Does that change the torque applied when it's "lubed up"? Seems like I read that somewhere/kind of seems like common sense, but that's why I'm asking for help...I just don't know. I did remove the entire crankcase collector system - it looked almost "sealed closed" at the collector - and replaced it with a brand new hose right off the crankcase from O'Reilly Auto Parts, including terminating it with a generic K&N-type crankcase breather filter and zip-tied it left of the shock. I plugged up the nipple that would otherwise suck-in unfiltered air to the carb. Thanks guys.
  12. Do I need to use brass washers or will stainless steel be ok?
  13. Can someone explain what the purpose is of the two #4 washers on the needle, versus just a richer/bigger main jet? Sorry, S trying to understand the concepts. Where EXACTLY do those #4 washers get installed (do I take apart the big throttle spring?)? Thanks guys.
  14. Is there supposed to be a hose coming off of that hole filled with dirt? WTF is that?
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