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phobbs

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About phobbs

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  1. Did you check the valve lash? You may need to adjust the valves. Also get a good quality compression tester and check the compression. If you damaged a valve it will have low compression.
  2. I think you could have damaged a valve or piston if you cranked it with the cam out of time. You won't know until you tear it down.
  3. Do a search on this forum for no spark. you should get lots of good ideas. Check the stator and the pick-up coil. the pick-up should be very close to the rotor (about .010-.015) like a business card thickness for a gap checker. From the looks of the pics, it looks like you need a new stator. the pick-up coil should not have frayed wires coming out of it and contacting your rotor. You can order one on EBay or Amazon for about $20 and just mount it and hot wire it to your existing wires. Pull the rotor (mageto) off and the stator is behind it. I think it is mounted with two screws. Be sure to order one that looks like yours. You can just match the wire colors. The clearance between the lug on the rotor and the pick-up coil should be about .010 (business card thjickness). You may have to adjust the clearance once you get the stator mounted and the rotor back on. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stator-Ignition-Magneto-Plate-50-70-90-110-125cc-ATV-Pit-Dirt-Bike-Gokart-2-coil-/190801886567?hash=item2c6cadbd67&vxp=mtr
  4. look at the post on the other thread. carb adjustment on a Siik 125. I answered this question. Frankie, try pulling the throttle slide back out of the carb and re-aligning it so it will go all the way down in the tube. It sounds like you did not get it aligned right and screwed the top on with it to high. The slide has a notch on one side and it aligns with a small pin inside the tube. These have to line up to allow the round slide to drop all the way down.
  5. Frankie, try pulling the throttle slide back out of the carb and re-aligning it so it will go all the way down in the tube. It sounds like you did not get it aligned right and screwed the top on with it to high. The slide has a notch on one side and it aligns with a small pin inside the tube. These have to line up to allow the round slide to drop all the way down.
  6. Maybe you did not get the throttle slide all the way down in the carb. I think that would make it idle way too fast though. I would pull the carb back off and check the jets and make sure one or both is not plugged.
  7. Do a search on this forum for no spark. you should get lots of good ideas. Check the stator and the pick-up coil. the pick-up should be very close to the rotor (about .010-.015) like a business card thickness for a gap checker.
  8. Did you try unplugging the kill switch?
  9. Replace the cdi and the stator. The stator should come with the pick-up coil on it. They are cheap to replace. get them on ebay or amazon. The stator is under the rotor and is behind the flywheel so you will need to have a flywheel removal tool. these can be purchased on ebay or amazon too and they are cheap also. Also, if you haven't done so already, unplug your kill switch and see if that helps.
  10. I have a 2010 Apollo 125cc agb37 and I love it. I bought it used for $200 and I do all my wrenching so I knew a lot of the stuff that needs to be checked and replaced on these bikes. I also got some great info from the guys on this forum that ride the chinese dirt bikes. The only real problems that I have had so far was bleeding the rear brakes (that was pretty frustrating but I finally got them bled), and also the stator went bad on it and I replaced the coil, and cdi before I finally narrowed it down to the stator. Parts are really cheap and easy to find on Ebay and Amazon. I have a blast riding mine on the trails with my grandson and his friends!
  11. Thanks for the replies. I am betting you guys are right! I rode this afternoon for about half an hour and it is still starting and running good. I was just amazed at the difference in the compression. I replaced the chain lately with a good grade chain because the one that was on it kept stretching too much and I was afraid it was about ready to break. I also rotated the bars back about an inch like you said. That seemed to help a lot in the woods
  12. Was wondering if anyone has experienced anything like this? I recently checked the valve clearance on my bike for the first time. I bought it used (2010 model) about 6 months ago and it cranked and ran fine when I got it. I only ride with my grandson on the trails when he visits, so it gets ridden very seldom and easy at that. Recently the stator quit on me and after I got it going again, I decided to go ahead and check the valve clearances. I checked the timing first and that was all good. Setting at TDC on the comp. stroke, the intake was at about .003" and the exhaust was tight (zero clearance). I left the intake alone and backed off on the exhaust until I got about .005" on it. From what I have read, it seems to me that athe exhaust, being that tight, was probably never closing all the way. It now starts and runs good but I find that the kick starter is much harder to push, especially when coming up on compression. It almost feels like the motor is going to seize up on me. If I go ahead and kick it hard, it will fire up. I'm almost afraid that I am going to break the kick starter! Anybody got any ideas about what caused that much difference in the stiffness of the engine? Did I possible do something wrong?
  13. Don't know about customizing the plastics on the 250. I picked up this 2010 Apollo on Craig's list a few months back for $200. It's a stock, 125 cc , and I haven't looked at customizing. I didn't want to sink much in to a $200 Chinese bike and I kinda like the graphics on it. I upgraded the chain and chain adjusters and one or two other components that may be suspect on these bikes. It runs strong and is lots of fun on the trails. I picked up a 2008 Honda CRF 70 for my 7 year old grandson and needed something cheap to ride in the woods with him. We live in a rural area and have miles of trails to ride just behind my house. Hope you enjoy your Apollo as much as I do mine. The original stator ran about 4 years and when it quit, I wasn't sure how to test it so I just bought the coil, CDI and stator. It turned out to be the stator so if you ever have trouble with no fire to the plug, check the Resistance through the top stator coil. It should read around 450 OHMs + or - 50 OHMs. When I got my new stator in and pulled the old one off, I checked them both on the bench with my multimeter. The new one checked 450 and the old one was only 75 or 80 OHMS.
  14. Just thought someone else may have encountered a problem with no spark to their spark plug and I thought I would share this. My bike got hard to start about 2 weeks ago and it would cut out most of the time when I would rev it up. It finally died and would not start. No spark to the plug. Parts are cheap on Ebay and Amazon for these bikes and I didn't have a repair manual to go by to test the components, so I just ordered a CDI box, a coil and a stator. The CDI box came and I changed it out (still no spark). I changed out the coil with a known good one and still no spark. The stator came today along with a $9 flywheel puller. So I changed out the stator and "boom", got fire to the plug and it started right up and ran strong. The old stator checked 70 OHM's through the coil windings (top coil is the one that fires to the CDI and the bottom one is the lighting coil if you have lights or accessories) and the new coil checked 450 OHM's. You can test it on the bench by holding one of the test leads to the place where the black/red wire is soldered on to the coil and hold the other lead to the ground end green wire is soldered on. I have an old analog multi-meter and I set it one Rx10. The meter read 45( 45 X 10 = 450 OHMs)so I knew the new one was good. The old one read 7 (7 X 10 = 70). I will order me another stator and that will give me a spare stator, coil and CDI box.
  15. I ran into the same situation recently. My rear brakes were not working on the 125cc Apollo. The pads were worn out and so I installed new pads and the caliper still would not pressure up enough to clamp the pads to the disc. I tried to bleed the air from the system and never could get the master cylinder to pressure up so I surmised that the master cylinder was bad. I ordered the master cylinder from China on Ebay, and when it arrived, it came with a new banjo bolt which was an m10. The existing brake hose had an M10 banjo bolt at the caliper and an M8 at the cylinder, so I was screwed! I eventually took both master cylinders apart and replaced the rubber cups in the old cylinder with the new ones from the new cylinder and got it to work some better than it was before. It will pressure up enough to stop the back wheel but won't lock it up like it should. One thing that helped mine was to do a "reverse bleed" on the system. Take a 60ml or 100ml syringe and suck it up full with brake fluid, use a short piece of tubing and attach it to the bleed screw at the caliper; loosen the cap on the master cylinder reservoir (two small screws); open the bleed screw about a quarter turn and start pushing the fluid from the syringe into the bleed screw. This will force the fluid from the caliper all the way up through the hose and through the master cylinder and the air will come out the top of the reservoir. When all the air is out and fluid is flowing out the top of the reservoir, while keeping pressure on the syringe, tighten the reservoir cap and close the bleed screw. This should give you pressure when you apply the brake lever. You may need to do a traditional bleed in addition but this reverse bleed should get most, it not all, of the air out. I also ordered a brake hose on Ebay that has the M10 banjo fittings on both ends. I think the one that I bought came off of a Yamaha 85cc dirt bike. The Kawasaki 80 and 85cc dirt bikes have the same hose. They are 22 inches long and have the M10 banjo fittings on both ends. If you find one on Ebay, be sure to send the seller a question before you bid on it and make sure it has a M10 fitting on both ends and make sure it is long enough to work on your bike. I ordered another master cylinder just like the first one I got ($10.99 and free shipping from China), so when it arrives, I will install the new hose and new master cylinder and hopefully, will get better results. One word of caution: The master cylinder that I got from China did not exactly match with the existing mounting holes. It is aluminum so it is an easy fix if you have a dremmel tool with a small cutter. I just elongated the mounting holes/slots on the new master cylinder and it worked fine.
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