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Denver Mike

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About Denver Mike

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  1. Denver Mike

    05 140L high altitude jet?

    Just for clarity, I misspoke previously, indicating that I purchased a Mikuni Carb kit from BBR. I actually purchased it from Engines Only. Here's the site address https://www.xr100.com/klx140.
  2. Denver Mike

    05 140L high altitude jet?

    I messed with the Main & Pilot. In the end I went to BBR Motorsports, and purchased a Mikuni Carb kit. I also installed a ProCircuit pipe. I just can’t say it works well. Like I said, I’m somewhat grateful my girlfriend doesn’t ride too often, so I don’t have to worry about it. But I am still frustrated with the lack of reliable performance. Try visit BBR’s website and see if you can find some support. Their website is pretty good these days, and they do have some helpful charts.
  3. Denver Mike

    05 140L high altitude jet?

    Try Jetsrus. He has everything, and his service is good for jet availability. As for suspension, I did upgrade the forks with RaceTech emulators and heavier springs. That mod did work really well. The last attempt I may make to resolve the engine issues, will be a big bore kit, which I hear helps, especially with the larger Mikuni carb. But, that mod may just be more wasted money. Basically, I wish I bought her the honda. Too bad she prefered Green over Red : (
  4. Denver Mike

    05 140L high altitude jet?

    I bought the same bike for my girlfriend several years ago. ( I live in Denver ). I could never figure the pilot jet issue out. I ended up buying a BBR replacement carb (Mikuni) and still never got it right. I’m just glad she doesn’t ride it much. Worse bike I’ve ever owned.
  5. Denver Mike

    KLX140L adjust shift lever?

    I recall trying to adjust my shifter one time, and basically gave up. Hopefully someone here has something helpful to share.
  6. Denver Mike

    KLX 140L won't start

    I have a similar problem. Unless I get the bike hot, it's a complete bitch to start. I have run it with the choke on for a good 5 mins before it will idle. Hopefully you'll find the fix. I haven't so far.
  7. Denver Mike

    valves or new head?

    Definitely adjust the valves yourself. I've done this on Honda's (CRF450R) and not a Kawasaki, but I can tell you its very straight forward, and logical if you are following the service manual. Before I did this work, I watched a few YouTube video's, which were very instructive. They helped a lot. I'm sure they'll be a YouTube video for your Kawasaki. Depending on how many miles / hours you have on the bike, you should probably be mindful of the shims sizes you are having to use. In other words, if you are needing to use shims that signal you have worn valves or seats (very large or small shims, depending on the wear), then you should anticipate having the head serviced by a professional, but I would guess that would only be after a lot of miles on the engine, or if its burning oil, etc........ Also, I did buy a shim kit from "HotCams" so I had a variety to chose from, when making the adjustments. That cost me ~ $70, but considering what I saved by not taking the bike to dealer, that was my only expense, other than time and effort.
  8. I can't really tell you "when" you need to upgrade the KLX140L suspension for your son, but another option is to keep the standard fork for a little longer, and upgrade it with RaceTech emulators, and heavier springs. I did this for my girl friend, and the bike handles great. I'm yet to mess around with the rear suspension, but I expect I can make some mods to improve rear end performance without a whole new shock and linkage. Food for thought I hope.............
  9. Glad to see these other posts supporting the 140L. Like I said, when I get it running, it is a blast to ride. No, I don't have the Big Bore kit, but I have thought about adding one. There are a few on eBay that are not over expensive. Might be a future winter project. But for what its worth, I did upgrade the front fork with stiffer race tech springs and an emulator. Much better !! Nothing to the rear shock yet.
  10. Please take this as an "n" of 1, but I believe my input is likely representative, as I've read a lot of posts on this bike. I bought the KLX140L for similar reasons to you. For my girlfriend, beginner rider, etc..... Of course, I had to make a few minor mods, because the standard bike was really choked up. So I added a pipe, increased air box breathability, rejetted, the carb, etc....... The bike just never ran well, till I added a flat slide carburetor, from "Engines Only". It really made a difference, and I was pleased with performance. HOWEVER, even to this day, I struggle to get the bike to run well, principally at start up. Once I finally get it started, and warmed up, it runs really, really well, but its a bi#ch to start for some reason, that I have never figured out. So here's my advice........... buy a Honda. There are a gazillion parts available for them, and they are so reliable. Good luck with your decision.
  11. Denver Mike

    FMF Racing Gnarly Pipe

    Replaced a damaged ProCircuit pipe. This FMF seems to work really well. Seems like more low end power.
  12. Denver Mike

    Honda CR500R 1999

    1999 CR500AF. A solid base bike, with 1999 CR250R frame. This thing hauls, and with all that torque, it pulls like a 4 stroke down low, but with the benefit of the 2 stroke explosion mid range upwards. Love it !
  13. Denver Mike

    Honda CR500R (1999)


    1999 CR500AF. A solid base bike, with 1999 CR250R frame. This thing hauls, and with all that torque, it pulls like a 4 stroke down low, but with the benefit of the 2 stroke explosion mid range upwards. Love it !
  14. Denver Mike

    Honda CR500AF 2005

    1999 CR500AF. Yet to figure the bike out, but looks to be a solid base bike.
  15. Denver Mike

    Snapped water spigot bolt on 2004 CRF450R head

    Thanks Both replies offer great advice. I'll try the extractor method 1st, with some light heat to that part of the head. So, just out of interest, and assuming either of you might know, what's behind the water spigot thread? Is it the cavity for the head stud, or the water jacket? I can't quite tell from my view. I'm not planning on removing the head again, as I've had it off twice to do some valve work (done messing with it), so I'll be doing this extraction in situ. Radiator will be off obviously.