Denver Mike

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About Denver Mike

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. I recall trying to adjust my shifter one time, and basically gave up. Hopefully someone here has something helpful to share.
  2. I have a similar problem. Unless I get the bike hot, it's a complete bitch to start. I have run it with the choke on for a good 5 mins before it will idle. Hopefully you'll find the fix. I haven't so far.
  3. Definitely adjust the valves yourself. I've done this on Honda's (CRF450R) and not a Kawasaki, but I can tell you its very straight forward, and logical if you are following the service manual. Before I did this work, I watched a few YouTube video's, which were very instructive. They helped a lot. I'm sure they'll be a YouTube video for your Kawasaki. Depending on how many miles / hours you have on the bike, you should probably be mindful of the shims sizes you are having to use. In other words, if you are needing to use shims that signal you have worn valves or seats (very large or small shims, depending on the wear), then you should anticipate having the head serviced by a professional, but I would guess that would only be after a lot of miles on the engine, or if its burning oil, etc........ Also, I did buy a shim kit from "HotCams" so I had a variety to chose from, when making the adjustments. That cost me ~ $70, but considering what I saved by not taking the bike to dealer, that was my only expense, other than time and effort.
  4. I can't really tell you "when" you need to upgrade the KLX140L suspension for your son, but another option is to keep the standard fork for a little longer, and upgrade it with RaceTech emulators, and heavier springs. I did this for my girl friend, and the bike handles great. I'm yet to mess around with the rear suspension, but I expect I can make some mods to improve rear end performance without a whole new shock and linkage. Food for thought I hope.............
  5. Glad to see these other posts supporting the 140L. Like I said, when I get it running, it is a blast to ride. No, I don't have the Big Bore kit, but I have thought about adding one. There are a few on eBay that are not over expensive. Might be a future winter project. But for what its worth, I did upgrade the front fork with stiffer race tech springs and an emulator. Much better !! Nothing to the rear shock yet.
  6. Please take this as an "n" of 1, but I believe my input is likely representative, as I've read a lot of posts on this bike. I bought the KLX140L for similar reasons to you. For my girlfriend, beginner rider, etc..... Of course, I had to make a few minor mods, because the standard bike was really choked up. So I added a pipe, increased air box breathability, rejetted, the carb, etc....... The bike just never ran well, till I added a flat slide carburetor, from "Engines Only". It really made a difference, and I was pleased with performance. HOWEVER, even to this day, I struggle to get the bike to run well, principally at start up. Once I finally get it started, and warmed up, it runs really, really well, but its a bi#ch to start for some reason, that I have never figured out. So here's my advice........... buy a Honda. There are a gazillion parts available for them, and they are so reliable. Good luck with your decision.
    Replaced a damaged ProCircuit pipe. This FMF seems to work really well. Seems like more low end power.
    1999 CR500AF. A solid base bike, with 1999 CR250R frame. This thing hauls, and with all that torque, it pulls like a 4 stroke down low, but with the benefit of the 2 stroke explosion mid range upwards. Love it !
    1999 CR500AF. Yet to figure the bike out, but looks to be a solid base bike.
  7. 0 comments

    1999 CR500AF. A solid base bike, with 1999 CR250R frame. This thing hauls, and with all that torque, it pulls like a 4 stroke down low, but with the benefit of the 2 stroke explosion mid range upwards. Love it !
  8. Thanks Both replies offer great advice. I'll try the extractor method 1st, with some light heat to that part of the head. So, just out of interest, and assuming either of you might know, what's behind the water spigot thread? Is it the cavity for the head stud, or the water jacket? I can't quite tell from my view. I'm not planning on removing the head again, as I've had it off twice to do some valve work (done messing with it), so I'll be doing this extraction in situ. Radiator will be off obviously.
    Had to have the connecting rod pin (big end) milled, because it would not fit correctly into the casings as standard. Pain in the neck !!
  9. Need some advice. I snapped a water spigot bold, on the head, right next to the exhaust port. Yeah I know, sucks ! I'm going to drill the old bolt out and retap a new thread. I've done this before in different places / bikes, so I feel OK about doing this. BUT, I am just a little concerned with the risk of drilling too far, and maybe penetrating the fluid jacket. I'm not sure of what's precisely behind the water spigot thread. Any thoughts or suggestions would be helpful.
    Great for the heat of summer riding.
    Wanted the low end performance as I use the bike mainly for trail riding.