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About joebmx

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  1. joebmx

    Jetting Debacle

    Oh man! you guys always make it seem so easy. How is it that a shop guy who's been doing this since the 70's was so far off base?! My parts are on order and should be here before the weekend. It should be easy enough and hopefully not as much trial and error with the knowledgebase here. Fingers crossed
  2. joebmx

    Jetting Debacle

    91 DR350 Dual Sport Model - Modded Airbox, Exhaust and Raptor Petcock. - located in Seattle WA, Sealevel 85% of the time. The bike has not run proper since I owned it and this being my first bike it is a learning experience with lots of trial and error. In May, not realizing that the mods required non stock jetting - I returned the jets all back to stock. Actually saw no change in performance. The bike still idled like garbage, popped on decel but had power through the range. The jets I bought the bike with it with were aftermarket, old and worn. I ended up throwing them away so I never paid mind to how the previous owner had it baselined. My bad So I bring it to the local shop and $450 later I have a bike that idles starts, doesn't run rich or lean except at WFO, but still has no balls and won't get over 50mph. I know, I could have bought a pumper carb for that much but I didn't expect it to cost me that much. They said they ran out of main jets but on my own start with a 160 and keep swapping up until it gets the power back and NOT TO TOUCH THE PILOT OR NEEDLE!! So what do I do today, I touch the pilot and Needle. Here is what I learned. The shop had a 37.5 Pilot, stock needle with 1 spacer and 1 washer, and I had a 182.5 main. Oh and the fuel mixture screw was 5 full turns out! I have been through the Kientec info and know that I need to start with a 40 pilot jet, 140 main and having a needle with 5 positions in it would be ideal. I went to jets R us purchased the pilot jet for the dirt model by accident in 40 (drilled). I will get a non drilled one in 40 and 42.5 just in case. I also picked up the needle with 5 positions and it is not even close in shape to the stock needle. See pic below. Will this be a problem? Everyone says to place it in the 3rd position to start. But do I need a washer or plastic spacer under the e-clip. Can I just use the OE needle and add a few washers? I got the needle that Jet's R' Us recommends on jet page http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/007_004_su.html The carb I have has the Round black top on it. Not sure what model specifically. I think it is the BTS33 which I did not see in their page anywhere. That's all for now. Thanks for your help!
  3. joebmx

    250 jetting question

    I have a 91 350 and had the worst time starting it. Incleaned it out once but that didnt help. I finally did a full rebuild back to stock on my carb and its runnin better than ever. I changed out everything, needles, jets,and orings. Starts within 3kicks everytime now. No other mods are on the bike only whatever crap the previous owner did to the carb which screwed it all up. My mechanic highly recomended getting mikuni oe jets. Saying that any after market stuff is really a crap shoot. I bought a few additional main jets since they were only a few dollars extra in the event i needed to further tune.
  4. joebmx

    DR650 High miles?

    Since the high mileage question came up, is this the same on a dr350? I have about 9k on mine and I worry that's high. Sounds like that's probably not the case.
  5. joebmx

    97 DR350se stalls at idle

    Cameron that's a really good question I don't know what other people do to warm up the bike. Good to know about the 2500 K though. It already takes me a long time to get the bike warm, I feel like it would take 10 minutes to warm up if I kept it at 2500 RPM. I will give it a go though. I also have a Clarke tank and while driving had it stall on me once every ride during my commute of 20 miles. Funny thing is it always died in the same place on the ride. I had rebuilt the carb not too long prior as it was pouring fuel out of the float bowl. Not knowing much about it I adjusted the float height. I think I ended up adjusting too much so that the float bowl didn't actually have enough fuel in it to feed the carb at the higher sustained speeds. I ended up taking the carb apart again, adjusting the float height and think I must have got it correct as it doesn't stall anymore.
  6. joebmx

    97 DR350se stalls at idle

    I have a 91' and if the the bike isn't warmed up proper it will just die. When I start it up I have to let it warm up quite a while before I push that choke in, otherwise it just suts down on me. Even if it seems to be running fine I can drop it into 1st and it will just stop. When warning it up I wait for it to bumps up to 5k rpm on its own, that's I know its good to go. I am sure others have different experiences. The quirks of having these older bikes I suppose.
  7. joebmx

    Clutch cover oil seal

    Duh, I know better. Sorry... 1991 dr350 se. Looking at it I would assume I only need to remove the brake and the kick lever. All the bolts are accessible. Just not sure if anything will fall out. I'm new to this. Oh and in the specs in my rebuild manual I didn't notice a torque spec. I'll look again but I didn't see anything for the clutch cover bolts. Only clutch bolts. Thanks. J
  8. joebmx

    Clutch cover oil seal

    So I have some oil leaking from the the bolt located behind the kickstart lever. I partially think it's leaking bc the bike is such a pain to start and I've bottom out the lever so many times when not in tdc. That said I need to replace the gasket but was wondering can I change it out with the engine still in the bike and do I need to worry about anything coming apart when I pull the cover. Also while I have it off should I look at replacing other gaskets like the kickstart seal or ... ? Since the bike is used I'd rather replace gaskets and seals while they're accessible and know the work is done.
  9. joebmx

    Carb rebuild Fail!

    Sorry I didn't do myself justice on this, the picture was just for dramatic effect to show that the washer covers the threads in the carb. It just sits on top. Before or after the o-ring the treads will never touch. In the whole carb there are only two washers and they look nothing alike. I don't want to go forcing the washer into the threads in fear that it will just lodge itself in there.
  10. joebmx

    Carb rebuild Fail!

    So I attempted a rebuild on my 91 350 SE with the assistance of an experienced friend. Actually he kind of took it over and went a little deeper than I was expecting and now I have problems that didn't exist. Before I was dumping a ton of gas out the drain hole. Almost like the float wasn't adjusted proper. Now the bike just cuts out warm and cold. To tell the truth we did end up with a washer that we couldn't figure out where it went. We were certain it came out from a jet and the diagram showed it coming from the jet but it doesn't seem to fit. It won't make it past the threads. We're were stumped in it and I'm wondering if anyone has insights on this mystery washer.
  11. joebmx

    1991 DR350S Carb dumping gas out drain

    So I hadn't rebuilt my carb but it naturally just stopped dumping out gas so I kind of figured it was okay and took it out for another ride. Shortly in it just started dumping out fuel again so I get home shut off the bike and try to let it drain but alas there is no luck in that. I pulled the drain plug cleaned it and there was a little bit of dirt or some kind of stuff on it, close it back up and it stopped and then it started pouring out gas again. At this point I realized I need to shut off the fuel but had no way to do that and then thought that my petcock might be bad. I pulled my fuel line and gas just kept coming out of the fuel line with the petcock turned on. Note this is a stock petcock with no cut off, only on, prime, reserve. Does this mean that my petcock is bad and I need to get a new one or rebuild this one? In addition it sounds like I might need to rebuild my carb as well? Or should I just stick to the petcock. Oh and I only started having this issue when I put on a Clark tank with a petcock in unknown condition. Stock tank worked great.
  12. joebmx

    Engine Revs when warm - DR350S 1991

    After driving my bike for a bit or letting it run in the driveway it will start to rev quite high. Ususally if I'm driving it I let out the clutch a bit to bring it down. I was thinking thee was a vaccum leak somewhere. I let the bike warm up and started spray some carb cleaner in places to see if there was a change in the RPM. Turns out I can totally stall the bike if I spray at the interface for the mounting flange from the carb to the cylinder head. Know that the bike only is affected when it is hot, if it is still cool there is no change. I'm know there is a gasket behind the flange that I can cheaply and easily replace however considering the bike is almost 25 years old I figure I will replace the entire flange for peace of mind. What I can't figure out is what to order. All of the sites out there seem to sell the Mikuni flanges but the measurments are all over the place. The aftermarket mikuni doesn't seem to require the o-ring either. is this a safe bet? They also don't seem to be a direct fit instead really having a +/- tolerance. For instance: Carb size 40-44mm, Bolts C-C 74.6mm, Throat depth 29mm. Having a 4mm range or whatever the proper flange will have seems like quite a lot. If I go to bike bandit they sell the OE flange but only for the dirt model 1991 dr350 not the "s" model like my bike. I read these have differnt carbs. Would this part not fit? Any thoughts would be super helpful thx, joseph
  13. So I went out riding yesterday and after bogging down and stalling it on a climb I notice fuel just pissing out the drain on the carb. The drain screw was plenty tight but it didn't seem to matter. The bike would not kick over, had to push it up a hill twice and push start it to finally get her going. About 7 miles later the bike starts to sputter like its not getting any fuel so I think I'm all out, turn it the reserve tank but it dies. Turns out I still had 3 gallons in it. A few kicks later and I'm up and runnign and make it to the truck without further incidence and.....it's not leaking out the drain anymore. What gives? I hear there is an oring on the drain screw but I haven't been able to spot one in the rebuild kit listing? I was told the carb was rebuilt when I pruchased the bike. I maybe have 400 miles on it since. I don't feel like I should be running into problems. Should I just go ahead and rebuild the whole thing? just new o-rings or should I do the whole thing, stock jet and all? Can someone point out the proper kit. I see to many of these out there and have messed up other purchases already. Thx Joseph
  14. joebmx

    DR350S new to me advice, starting and cooling

    Interesting so I can just push through slow to find the top of the stroke and that's it. Why the heck do you need to do 5-10 kicks with the decomp down? It's gotta serve another purpose
  15. joebmx

    DR350S new to me advice, starting and cooling

    So got it started. Here's what I noticed. On prime things started to smell a whole lot like gasoline. I was kicking it a bunch without luck then switched the fuel to on. I wasn't sure if it was normal or not, the smell that is. Then I'm doing the compression process and I'm being mindful of where the kickstart engages when I'm ready to start it. Consistently it's grabbing further down the stroke like I said at like 2 o'clock . I'll try to post some pics. Then it engages much closer to the top. I noted it, turned to my neighbor who was watching and said this is the kick. Sure enough it was. Is there a way to make it engage more consistently closer to the top? I really can't go any slower to find TDC.