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About KevinJamesKevin

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  1. KevinJamesKevin

    Sag Settings

    I do believe that your sag setting will be off if you are not measuring to the seat bolt from the rear axle. Give it a try and you will see that the difference will be, well, different if you are measuring vertically to a point on the fender. The swingarm travels in an arch, so where you measure from is important. I'm sure Honda calls for the seat bolt to be the point. Four inches of sag as measured vertically to the rear fender, will not be four inches of sag if measured to the seat bolt.
  2. KevinJamesKevin

    450X chain tension question-problem.....

    Honda wants you to check the chain play on the upper chain run, half-way between front and rear sprockets. That puts the measuring point about an inch or two from the back of the swingarm chain slider (bust out a measuring tape and measure for yourself if you need to Idaho). Bike on stand with rear wheel off the ground. I then use a small metric steel ruler that I hold in front of the chain. I press down on the chain and note where it lands on the ruler, then I lift up and note that. I aim for about 30 millimeters of free play between the two. I beleve Honda calls for anywhere between 25 and 35 millimeters of movement on the chain. I also rotate the rear wheel and check the freeplay several times to make sure that I'm aware of any tight spots. If you are adjusting your nice clean and lubed chain, you'll find that it does loosen up a little after you start to ride. The O-ring chains are a little stiffer because of the o-rings, but they do warm up and move a little freer, hence the chain gets a little looser. That's my two cents.... Oh yea - no chain slap either.
  3. KevinJamesKevin

    Sag Settings

    Just curious - are you measuring from the rear axle to the seat bolt?
  4. KevinJamesKevin

    Ethanol fuel blends problematic.......

    I've noticed no change in how well my bike runs since Connecticut switched from MTBE to ethanol oxygenators a few years back. I haven't noticed any deposits or anything of that nature in my carb either. No matter what, I always start my bike at least once every two weeks - I let it warm up and I run it around the property for about 10 minutes or so. Thus, when I put the bike away, the fuel in fuel bowl is fresh from the bike's tank. Letting that carb sit with the same fuel in the bowl for weeks or months on end, in my opinion, cannot be good. Also, this next bit might sound extreme, but I don't use a gas can because I always like the freshest fuel. Thus, I fill the bike from the pump at the gas station with mobil premium for each ride. Before I fill my bike, I pump the first couple of gallons of the premium into my truck, then I fill my bike. Why? I believe those single pump gas hoses hold the fuel in them, so when you start pumping, you're probably getting the first half gallon of 87 octane from the guy before you... Lastly, in the winter when I'm not riding, I will drain the gas from my bike if it approaches 2-months old. This has worked well for me...
  5. KevinJamesKevin

    Rivet style master link

    Thanks. Yea - it's been a while since I've purchased one, but 10 or 15 bucks sounds about right depending on brand and quality. I used to like the ability to simply and quickly remove the chain, without the necessity of purchasing a new link (or the new chain tool for that matter). That said, it no longer bothers me at all - you get used to it. Thus, for the most part, I consider the rivet link pretty much permanent, at least until it's time to replce the chain. I have had great luck with the motorex fully synthetic 622 chain lube -does not pick up any muck, and my normal post-ride cleaning procedure with the hose and simple green leaves my chain looking like new, so no need to remove the chain for a super cleaning. I have no complaints about it.
  6. KevinJamesKevin

    Rivet style master link

    You're not supposed to re-use the link, so once you take it off, you get a new one... I use the motion pro tool - no problems with it. Wow - that felt good - first post in who knows how long...
  7. KevinJamesKevin

    Bike spewing oil once it's warmed up...

    Been running a full quart in the tranny for three years - never seen a drop come out of the tube.
  8. KevinJamesKevin

    Bike spewing oil once it's warmed up...

    If you put a quart in, a quart should come out - thus, measure how much you drain to be sure you're not leaking engine oil into the tranny. Also, on the flip side of that coin, if you are leaking engine oil into your tranny, you'll be losing it on the engine side, so check that level while you're at it.
  9. KevinJamesKevin

    Bike spewing oil once it's warmed up...

    That tube you are describing does connect to the back of the cylinder, but it vents the transmission chamber, so that has got to be transmission oil coming from the tube. How much tranny oil are you running?
  10. KevinJamesKevin

    Broke Oil Filter bolt. Now What???

    Guys - It's really not worth the risk of using a torque wrench on the oil filter cover bolts. Why? Well, first off, you need a torque wrench designed for low-torque applications. That means if you have one that is capable of, say, 5-80 lbs-ft, it ain't gonna work - you'll strip the threads or snap the bolt. Also, click-type torque wrenches should be cycled before torquing any fastener because they can be inaccurate on the first couple of clicks after sitting around. Another thing - those small, long bolts that flex make it even tougher, particularly when you introduce a lubricant on the threads or mating surface of the bolt/cover. Lube on the threads generally means you need to reduce the torque by 25 percent from the spec. The Honda specs are for dry, clean bolts unless specified otherwise. I use a sharpie marker to mark both of the oil filter bolts so that I can basically tighten them the same every time, and this way I have a simple visual reassurance to make sure the bolts aren't coming loose when I'm riding. I mark most of my critical fasterners with a sharpie just to be sure - it's a little piece of mind I guess, particulalry on the oil drain bolts. I just peek down and know they are tight. Sorry for rambling on....been a while since I've been here....
  11. KevinJamesKevin

    03 450R Clinder honing

    No expert here, but I believe the issue of using a ball hone pertains to 2-stroke cylinders, not four strokes. 2-stroke cylinders have ports in them, and the ball hones can catch the edges of those ports and chip the nikasil coating on the cylinder. Obviously, four strokes don't have ports in the cylinder, so no issue there with the ball hone.
  12. KevinJamesKevin

    04' very hard to kick after timing chain

    Same issue with my friend's 05. He rebuilt the top end and suddenly the bike was an absolute beast to kick over. The bike ran ok, but boy did it hurt to start it. After a while we re-checked the timing using the primary gear timing mark, the flywheel timing mark, as well as the marks on the cam sprocket. Sure enough the timing chain was one-tooth off. Made the adjustment and problem solved. Anytime I do a top end I use the mark on the primary gear as well as the flywheel - it makes it foolproof.
  13. KevinJamesKevin

    TwinAir Filter Caught Fire this weekend

    If you you are not rinsing out the filter, and rinsing it well I might add with soapy water, you are leaving a good deal of the kerosene based cleaner in the filter. Not only can that leave you exposed to a potential fire with or without a backfire screen, but it will also dillute and thin-out any filter oil that you subsequently apply. I think that needs to be a consideration in your case. There's no telling what the "cause" of this fire was....
  14. KevinJamesKevin

    OK Hotshots answer this one!

    Cubera is right. Those are both vent hoses. They are held in place above the carb by a small metal bar located under the frame cross member on the left hand side. Just look under the cross member connecting the frame spars and you will see it. Both tubes are held in place there.
  15. KevinJamesKevin

    Cleaning Air Filter?

    What kind of filter oil are you going to be using? Bio or non-bio? If you are going to be using non-bio filter oil, I would suggest the twin air bucket and solvent. The solvent is very similar to kerosene (it probably is kerosene). It quickly breaks-down the oil and it will not damage the glued seams of the filter. You then need to rinse the filter with soap and water to remove any remaining solvent. Let it dry and then oil it. If you are going to run a bio oil, you need to get an appropriate cleaner designed specifically for bio oil. The bio cleaner will not work on a petroeum/non-bio oil. I think the stock oil on the air filter is petroleum based and must be cleaned with a solvent, so no matter what you decide, you'll probably still need to clean it, at least the first time, with a solvent.