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Skinsfan6

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About Skinsfan6

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    TT Gold Member

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  • Location
    Virginia
  • Interests
    dirt bikes, diggin in my truck, restoring tractors
  1. Skinsfan6

    XT350 carb setup

    I have no stumble on my XT... Stock exhaust with no spark arrestor, stock airbox with holes drilled in the cover and snorkel removed, 130 main jet primary carb, 125 main jet secondary carb, no needle adjustments, at sea level. I'm pretty happy with it. It definitely hauls ass compared to stock, especially about 4500 rpm. I do want to open up the exhaust without hacking up my stock exhaust, though. I retrofitted a silencer off a 92 Honda 250X atv (slightly smaller diameter but straight through design) and bolted it on once but it stumbles hard at 7,000rpm. Might try to tinker with that more later.
  2. Skinsfan6

    Pulling XT350 cylinder to fix oil leak?

    I think I will wait until after the trip and maybe do it the week or two I am home afterwards. I will order a gasket kit because I don't trust myself cutting new gaskets. The seepage is annoying but I'm almost certain the oil loss is negligible. Last oil change I put a little lucas oil stabilizer in the oil ~100ml maybe. I do a lot of highway riding at around 4500-5000rpm and I had been noticing a little oil loss. The oil loss has slowed down, and visually, the seepage appears about the same. So I'll let it ride til after my trip.
  3. Skinsfan6

    Pulling XT350 cylinder to fix oil leak?

    Excellent. I'll pick up the Clymer Saturday and replace the gasket next time I'm home. My XT only has 3,800 miles on it and I'm running short on time and money before I go on a weekend trip with my dad, so I'm hoping to get away without rings and a hone this time.
  4. Hey guys. 96 XT350. I have a very slight oil leak under the right rear corner of the cylinder on my XT. It gets damp with oil after a substantial ride 2+ miles. It is probably not anything I need to pull apart and fix, but I figured I would see if anyone has had their cylinder off. If I can pull the cylinder and slap a new gasket on without having to hone it or do much nonsense I may do it to make my becoming-vintage XT leak free. So can anyone give me a basic list of steps to replace the base cylinder gasket? Are there any tricks I should know about other than simple disassembly and reassembly? I have a pdf Yamaha service manual that is pretty worthless, but I think I will pick up a Clymer manual I spotted at the stealership a few weeks ago.
  5. Skinsfan6

    Foam Handguards?

    Rocky mountain mc's Tusk grip heaters are ~$20. I have read nothing but good reviews about them. I would have gotten them but I got another set for $30 because I was ordering tires from that place anyway.
  6. Strange on both accounts. We both felt the upward slanting bedrails hindered rear visibility. I didn't drive it enough at night to notice the reverse lights. I have no explanation for our discrepancy in opinion on the turn radius. I just feel like the F150 is easier to park. Perhaps it's because I'm more comfortable backing up with it because I feel like I can see more out of it. As for mpg, do you reset it? My dad resets it every tank, as do I on my Excursion. His mileage went up after a few thousand miles. It started off around 16 or 17. Keep in mind we are also at sea level with very little elevation change-I'm not sure what your driving routes are like. I can understand your feelings about both the price and interior. My dad's F150 is a loaded Lariat he special ordered and cost him essentially the same as the Tundra which was a TRD but otherwise plain with cloth seats and boring interior. We also weren't crazy about the interior. I had issues with 3 colors all over the place-tan, silver, and black. And I just didn't like the shape of the dash. I've always been a fan of clean, simple Ford dashboards. We never towed anything heavy with his Tundra, but I can believe it towed better. It seems to be like a 5/8 ton truck that can't really be compared to 1/2 tons or 3/4 tons. The ONE thing I miss about the Tundra is the power rear window that slides down and out of sight entirely.
  7. My dad has a 2011 Supercrew Lariat with the 5.5' bed with an Ecoboost. He does 75 highway/25 city and gets mid 19s. His previous truck was an 08 Toyota Tundra 5.7L with the same cab and bed configuration as the F150. He got mid 15s with that truck. Same commute every day with both trucks. Additional complaints about the Tundra from both he and I were that the rear visibility sucked, the turning radius sucked, it didn't feel like a truck in the driver's seat (something about the huge windshield, low seating position, etc didn't feel right), and it was an ugly truck.
  8. Skinsfan6

    XT350 Should I rejet?

    Favorite combination at sea level with airbox snorkel removed, holes drilled in air box cover, stock exhaust with baffle/spark arrestor removed: Primary Carb-130 main from 125 oem Secondary Carb-125 main from 106 oem ZERO needle shimming ZERO adjustment of the screw under the brass plug (haven't gotten the brass plug out yet) Friday night I retrofitted an aftermarket (brand unknown) exhaust made for my Honda 250X atv to fit my XT. It is slightly smaller in diameter (1/4") than the mid-pipe joint but a straight-through design, so less restrictive IMO. I sleeved it up twice, cut slits in the end, and used the factory clamp on the mid-pipe joint. No leaks, and it's very torquey with it on, but there is lots of stumbling around 6500-7000 and up rpms with the 140 in the primary carb. I'm hoping in the future when I get some time to play with it I can make the 140 work with the pipe with some needle shimming.
  9. Skinsfan6

    XT350 Should I rejet?

    I hate to revive an old thread but I have a jetting update. A while ago I put a 125 in the secondary carb, giving me stock 125 main, 125 secondary. This gave me a ton more power at 4000rpm and up. It ran great. The plug still wasn't the perfect tan I wanted. Last week I ordered a 130 and 140 primary jet for an XT600. I tried the 140 first. It seems to have a ton of bottom end with this setup but it may rev slower, and there is consistent stumble at 6,000 rpm. When I get home tomorrow afternoon I will check the plug and probably try the 130. I may save the 140 for when I modify the exhaust.
  10. I have a YZ250 and I've ridden a few different 125s-a YZ, a 125SX, and a KX125. The rider compartment seemed the same size to me on all of them. The only major difference in ergonomics is that on a ktm it feels like you need to sit up on the tank and put more weight on the front end. All of these 125s were older than mine also. Probably all three were 02s, and my 250 is an 06. They also have plenty of power if you know how to make use of it. I rode lots of pretty gnarly stuff in WV on a KX100 when I was 15 and had lots of momentum-keeping and clutch-slipping fun with no trouble.
  11. Ruffus inspired me. My Bikemaster turn signals were POS and the left ones didn't work. I really didn't want to drop $15 per pair for the same ones or more for better ones, so I went his route. I found the same lights, same brand and everything, at Walmart for $1.9x each. I bought four and redid all four. I screwed them on top of the rear fender and on the sides of my headlight cowl with plugs so it can be removed easily. The rear is kind of fugly because I ran the wires on top of the fender (didn't want them exposed underneath and the ground system is the mounting bolt hole), but all four are very functional and there is almost NO chance any will come off in a drop.
  12. Skinsfan6

    xt350 wanders on road normal?

    Don't forget to check the wheel bearings for play, and also look at the beads of both tires to make sure they are seated all the way around. I have had knobbies that held air fine but one section of the bead would just not seat.
  13. Skinsfan6

    XT350 sprockets for street use

    I run 19/50 on the on and off road on my XT. I don't find the gearing too high for the woods if you're a pretty fast rider. Mine is all stock except I went up to a 125 main jet in the secondary carb - it pulls really hard on top compared to stock and the plug is more brown. The 19/55 stock ratio gives a little more power but I don't like the rpms it turns at highway speeds. I now turn 5000 at 60mph, 4500 at 55mph. Honestly I'd like to try 18/50 or so to see how much more I can lower the rpms without losing much more power, but I wonder if rideability will suffer.
  14. If you have a volume control and use common sense it can't be any worse than listening to music in a car. I haven't taken any trips over 75 miles or so on my bike so I have not bothered setting anything up, but I may be guilty of singing on a few occasions.
  15. Skinsfan6

    200xcw or 300 xcw

    Unless you expect to gain much weight, I wouldn't let your weight dictate which bike you get. Your weight won't make a difference suspension-wise on both bikes with stock suspension, and both motors will pull your weight fine. If you're a slow C rider and used to a 250X you will probably find the 300 much easier to ride, as it has a much torquier bottom end and can be ridden at very low rpms. 200s like to be ridden at higher rpms and have more of a hard-hitting powerband compared to a 300 and your 250X. Yes, the 300s have a lot more power, but it's easier to ride because it has power everywhere. Speed is in direct relation with the rotation of the right grip. It's that simple. 12 pounds is negligible if you ask me, but you may feel that the 300 is heavier because it has more rotating mass and more weight above the crank (a bigger cylinder and head, obviously).
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